SanderBird82
Well-known member
No i do pull out the eyecups half. En then on my eyes
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Pure NL the right one for me? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MatthiasGr
- Start date
Yes.
henry link
Well-known member
I had a similar experience when I bought my 8x42 NL pure. I found the trick to eliminating glare is to adjust the eyecup length inward until you encounter
"kidney beaning" type blackouts flickering at the edges of the FOV. Back off just enough to kill the blackouts and that's where you will find the sweet spot without blackouts or glare. It may be between click-stops.
There is no special glare problem in the NL coming from stray light entering through the back of the eyepiece, so I suspect if the winged eyecups are effective against internal glare for some users it's only because the eyecup length just happens to place the eye's pupils at the sweet spot distance from the eyepiece for blocking the internal glare that comes from the front of the binocular.
Last edited:
SanderBird82
Well-known member
Thats exactly my experience (but my English is not that good)
crinklystarfish
Well-known member
For what it's worth, and with regard to glare specifically, on a much older thread I noted:
"I think it's now pretty much accepted that the NL line is pretty poor in this regard. As is referenced by many-a-poster, IPD and ER really are that critical with the NL. I've personally optimised the glare / beaning knife edge at 2.5 stops out using 'O' rings.
So critical is the setting, that any attempt to pan and / or roll eyeballs around the image can readily conjure the spectre. When panning, I've found adopting a lead-with-the-bin technique can help. Let me explain.
In simple terms, if I want to pan left I'll keep the bin perpendicular to my eyes but rather than turn my head and bin as one, I instead apply the tiniest bit of pressure to the right hand side of the bridge of my nose with the inside edge of the right eyepiece. To help with visualisation of the technique, it can be thought of as gently pushing the head in the panning direction, using the eyepiece to do so. Seemingly, the effect of this is to move the exit pupil a miniscule amount in a way that - for me, anyway - means the inevitable slight rolling of the eye that panning tends to induce doesn't quite so readily trigger the troublesome crescents of unwanted light."
Adding to this, I find that the angle the bin is held in the horizontal plane can contribute to, or reduce the glare phenomenon. I found that if you naturally tend to lean your head forward slightly and use the bony part of eye sockets as an anchor point, then that may result in holding the bin quite a long way from perpendicular to your face. This seems to exacerbate the potential for glare.
If you are naturally a lean-head-forward type, then it may help to stand a little more upright and bring the bottom of the eyecups towards your cheeks. Of course, I fully accept this is just one of many variables and may or may not make a difference for others.
It goes without saying that it would be just brilliant if Swarovski could / would reduce the phenomenon through better design / engineering, but in lieu of that then I personally, for now, am prepared to work with the blight as the product is otherwise so rewarding.
"I think it's now pretty much accepted that the NL line is pretty poor in this regard. As is referenced by many-a-poster, IPD and ER really are that critical with the NL. I've personally optimised the glare / beaning knife edge at 2.5 stops out using 'O' rings.
So critical is the setting, that any attempt to pan and / or roll eyeballs around the image can readily conjure the spectre. When panning, I've found adopting a lead-with-the-bin technique can help. Let me explain.
In simple terms, if I want to pan left I'll keep the bin perpendicular to my eyes but rather than turn my head and bin as one, I instead apply the tiniest bit of pressure to the right hand side of the bridge of my nose with the inside edge of the right eyepiece. To help with visualisation of the technique, it can be thought of as gently pushing the head in the panning direction, using the eyepiece to do so. Seemingly, the effect of this is to move the exit pupil a miniscule amount in a way that - for me, anyway - means the inevitable slight rolling of the eye that panning tends to induce doesn't quite so readily trigger the troublesome crescents of unwanted light."
Adding to this, I find that the angle the bin is held in the horizontal plane can contribute to, or reduce the glare phenomenon. I found that if you naturally tend to lean your head forward slightly and use the bony part of eye sockets as an anchor point, then that may result in holding the bin quite a long way from perpendicular to your face. This seems to exacerbate the potential for glare.
If you are naturally a lean-head-forward type, then it may help to stand a little more upright and bring the bottom of the eyecups towards your cheeks. Of course, I fully accept this is just one of many variables and may or may not make a difference for others.
It goes without saying that it would be just brilliant if Swarovski could / would reduce the phenomenon through better design / engineering, but in lieu of that then I personally, for now, am prepared to work with the blight as the product is otherwise so rewarding.
Yarkho
Optics afficionado
I am not sure it can be categorically stated that the glare problem does not come from the eyepiece.
My experience with all three Swarovski binos that I own is this: I use the binos with glasses, meaning eyecups fully down. I noticed - with all three binos - that when they hang from the neck there is a bright rim to the eyelens if viewed at an angle.
I did not ascribe any importance to it until I noticed tree branches being reflected in this bright rim. The reflection can mean one thing, that the edges of relatively-thick lenses within the eyepiece are not properly blackened, leading probably to multiple reflections within the complex optical design.
My experience with all three Swarovski binos that I own is this: I use the binos with glasses, meaning eyecups fully down. I noticed - with all three binos - that when they hang from the neck there is a bright rim to the eyelens if viewed at an angle.
I did not ascribe any importance to it until I noticed tree branches being reflected in this bright rim. The reflection can mean one thing, that the edges of relatively-thick lenses within the eyepiece are not properly blackened, leading probably to multiple reflections within the complex optical design.
