6 April. Khairah Forest & Wadi Ileeb.
Weather refugee. I hadn't come to Saudi Arabia for cloud and rain, so I decided this day to leave the highlands and return to the coast, guaranteed to be hot and sunny.
First however, I wanted another day of butterfly action, focussing this time on Khairah Forest. there at 7.00 am, too early for butterflies, so a bit of birding. These here forested slopes are the sometime home of Arabian Grosbeak, but rare indeed is the bird encountered. Plenty of other birds in the morning sunshine though - abundant Yemen Linnets, at least eight Arabian Wheatears, several Arabian Warblers and a couple of Arabian Serins. Also encountered two Crowned Dwarf Racers, small non-venomous snakes. Then something rather good - a small flycatcher in an acacia. At first glimpse, I thought it was going to be a Red-breasted Flycatcher, but it was actually something better - a Gambaga Flycatcher. Like a small version of a Spotted Flycatcher without breast and head streaking, I thought I was a little too early in the season for this species, so that was a bonus.
Anyhow, the magic hour was approaching, time for butterflies to get active. Unfortunately so too was cloud getting active again, a bank of the grey stuff sitting on the lip of the escarpment, plunging Khairah into periodic shade with growing frequency. Nevertheless, a few butterfly were active in this early morning period - a White-spotted Commodore, a couple of Bath Whites, an Arabian Wall Brown and two new for the trip - a solo Green-striped White and a solo Small Copper.
This place definitely had potential, but the cloud seemed to be winning the battle for dominance, so I decided to head inland a little further away from the escarpment edge. This worked a treat - a mere three kilometres or so and I was in blue skies and unbroken sunshine. A very nice couple of hours followed - a very Palearctic feeling, just occasional Dark Blue Pansies ans Yellow Pansies, but an impressive abundance of butterflies that you might find on a rocky Mediterranean coast somewhere - many Bath Whites and Green-striped Whites, plenty of Painted Ladies (only one prior to this on the trip), several Small Coppers, both Lang's Short-tailed Blue and, new for the trip, Long-tailed Blue. The biggest surprise however was something you definitely won't find on the Mediterranean coast - a Western Dwarf Blue. Superficially similar to a mini Canary Blue, this is one of the smallest butterflies in the world, truly a midget. I certainly was not expecting it here however - although it is spreading on the Persian Gulf side of the Arabian Peninsula, a thousand kilometres across the desert, I didn't know of any records on the western side of Saudi Arabia. I was to later discover that an individual of this species was also discovered at a locality a dozen or so kilometres from this spot a year earlier.
That seen, I then decided to descend the escarpment back into the lowlands - dropping off the cliff, it was an immediate transformation back into an Afrotropic butterfly mix - Purple-brown Hairstreaks, many of both pansies, African Ringlets, many Plain Tigers, a colony of Mediterranean Tiger Blues and, always stately, several Citrus Swallowtails. The Goldilocks zone however was unfortunately mostly in cloud and, by the time I was in full sun, I had descended from 2300 m to about 750 metres, already becoming too hot and dry to support much other than Blue-spotted Arabs and Tiny Grass Blues.
Time to head for the coast, a drive of a couple of hours through parched land at 37 C. Somewhere about midway, I spotted a patch of relative greenery and made a short detour …and what an amazing discovery - Wadi Ileeb, an oasis of fresh flowing water, a series of shallow pools and abundant birds! Clearly a very welcome sight for migrating birds, herons were packed in - at least 130 Squaccos, four Purple Herons, one Grey Heron, about 40 Little Egrets, 35 Cattle Egrets and, the only one of the trip, one Great White Egret. Also Spoonbill and four Glossy Ibis. Equally impressive, a flock of about 400 Yellow Wagtails, almost all males and a split between about one-third blue-headed flava wagtails and two-thirds the stunning black-headed feldegg birds. Also about 60 Red-throated Pipits, many in full summer dress. And just to round the birds off, as well as Black Scrub-Robin and an overhead Booted Eagle, I had the good fortune to flush a Common Buttonquail.
Quite a few butterflies here too - now being firmly in the hot lowlands, this was absolutely the desert mix - Blue-spotted Arabs and Plain Tigers predominant, African Migrants next, then a smaller numbers of Dark Blue Pansies and African Grass Blues.
Excellent stop, thereafter continued across the desert, all amazingly green after recent rain. Stopped for the night at Albraaket, about 60 km south of Al Lith. No hotels here, made the mistake of sleeping in the car on the beach - hot and humid, first mosquitoes of the trip.