Day 3 Lithuania – Northern Forests (Birzu Giria)
Seeing as the local forest where Milda had seen the WB Woodpecker the previous day was practically on our doorstop and en route north, we decided to make this our first stop of the day.
A nice male Redstart singing resplendently from the trees just outside M & L’s apartment was already a nice start to the day (and the only good sighting in the whole trip, perhaps a little surprisingly). Fieldfares blasting up from the ground too of course, and a colony of dapper Tree Sparrows too.
But it wasn’t long before we were yet again piling out of the birdingmobile, this time, however, we had barely started birding the site before a woodpecker silhouetted on a tree trunk was spotted. It remained a silhouette – or did it? … It was rather large, and actually still black when it wasn’t against the light. Excellent! We watched the male make 2 visits to the nest hole in quick succession, its bright red crown and pale yellow eye vividly offsetting its stark angular beauty as I enjoyed my first proper views of the beast – flight views as a kid in France and later in Finland not quite the same. Black Woodpecker!
Other birds in the area included Garden Warbler, cracking views of a little Wood Warbler in the shady conifers, smart male Pied Flycatchers, and a couple of Bullfinches coming down to the pool to drink. But alas, no White-backed Woodpeckers.
However onward we must head again – we had a good 2 hour drive to complete before we reached our next (and the main) destination. WBW’s would have to wait. The road north was a good, fast one. Unfortunately too fast – every time I had spotted an interesting looking raptor from the rear seat, called it and the driver had reacted and thought about slowing down, it was already some way behind (we probably could have tried scoping, but again we didn't think of this in time either). Marsh Harriers were common, quartering the ground, but two birds sat in a field looked a bit wrong and rather more aqualine. But they may just have been MH’s. Another on a hummock looked decidedly good , with a golden-maned head just like in The Collins and almost retrospectively tickable – but only if we did actually see another. And not really at 75mph, although I did spot and tick a pair of Honey Buzzards circling over a distant wood. Eventually I swapped over to the front seat, whereupon we didn't see another interesting bird. Apart from a Common Buzzard ...
We also made the first of several obligatory ice-cream stop. Multiple stops for multiple ice-creams in fact.
We should quite possibly have stayed longer at the woodpecker site, eaten more ice-creams, or at least updated on our progress, because we arrived a full twenty minutes before the guy we were meant to be meeting, Armandus, at the small village he lived in near the edge of the forest.
After a while figuratively twiddling our thumbs, he suddenly materialised, and off we went. Soon the tarmac road was left behind for a dusty, stony rough surface as a wall of forest slowly came closer. Conversation had now switched to Lithuanian as the guys caught up, but I wasn’t left out as we soon made our first stop shortly before actually hitting the wall – ‘We might get Lesser Spotted Eagles around here’ I was told. And we did. Scanning the skies a distant, droopy-winged raptor was soon in our sights. It was rather distant, but at least I could pick up most of the features as it banked and turned. Relief!
As it circled it went into a long low glide back the way we had just come, so a quick decision was made and myself and L leapt into the car, and leaving the other two in a pall of dust we didn’t see it again*. On our return we found the others watching a closer pair showing well. At least I now had proper views! Lifer number 4. Other raptors here included Montagu’s Harrier and the only Sparrowhawk of the trip. (*edit: The dust had barely settled when the Monty's went over - we did try for a pall id, but it probably wasn't)
And so we entered the forest, and started birding. The forest, extending beyond our remit and into the neighbouring country of Latvia, was reasonably wild, undisturbed and extensive. It was, however, crisscrossed by a regular network of well-maintained trackways on a regular grid. We now explored these trackways, slowly, by car. Stopping now and then at a likely looking spot, birding all the while. This involved a couple of Red-breasted Flycatchers singing lustfully from (unfortunately) deep within the conifer ranks adjoining the trackway, a couple of Tree Pipits and (finally!), a Common Rosefinch, and quite a rosy one, but of the hoped for woodpeckers or Ural Owls (the only owl we had a realistic chance of bumping into in the daytime at roost), there was not a sign. Every clearing seemed devoid of instantly recognisable and interesting silhouettes. Early on however, we did enjoy another closer Lesser Spotted Eagle sailing above our heads as it went about its business, wing patches and all.
And then the heavens opened, just as we were about to embark on a longer 3km walk Armandus had planned for us through some of the better habitat. So we retired to a handy lakeside cabin for lunch – Pilchards and Sardines this time, to the accompaniment of Great Reed Warbler song.
The rain having cleared and we set out again – and the wildlife had come out too, it seemed. A Woodcock appeared on the ground, then another, crossing a side-track as we again attempted to start off on the 3km walk, like a dumpy elderly gentleman and his consort, then a bit of an excitement as a mammal appeared out of the mist – a hare. Not just any hare however, this one was an M and S Hare – a Mountain (Style) Hare – considering we were nowhere near any mountains, indeed any really open ground, this seemed a bit incongruous, however it’s just a name, and the heathery grassy understory was obviously good enough for it. We enjoyed looking at its legs (because they were white, not any weird kind of harey leg fetish), and its daintier head and ears as it nervously fed on the thin grasses growing at the side of the track. Although it was a nice little animal, I suspect I was not alone in harbouring a secret desire for a Lynx to silently materialise next to it or come bursting out of the forest and snatch it up. This didn’t happen, perhaps unsurprisingly. A had only seen Lynx half a dozen times in years of working and living near the forest, so we would have been rather jammy to see one on our sole afternoon (although we did have good previous form for jammy sightings, it was not to be). We did however find plenty of wolf poo down one track, with some tracks even in the sandy surface.