Jules,
I did some tests today to see if my Photoshop percentage method works correctly and I can pretty much say it's spot on.
I took 3 photos, one at prime focus (600mm) and then one with a 1.5X teleconverter and another with a 2X teleconverter. In photoshop I resized all three photos to 800 pixels wide. Then using the 600mm prime focus photo I resized it by 150% and then dragged it onto the photo taken with the 1.5X teleconverter. The two matched up perfectly which in theory they should have done as 1.5X is the same 150%. I repeated this with the 2X teleconverter photo by increasing the 600mm image by 200% and this matched up perfectly also. So if you take 600mm as being correct as that is the scopes focal length you should be able to multiply that by the percentage increase needed in Photoshop and then multiply by the crop factor to work out the mm equivalent. The tests I did today back that up.
Once you start stacking teleconverters then this method needs to be used. When I stacked my 2X and 1.5X you would expect the magnification to be 2880mm or 300% just by basing it on calculations alone. However when I overlaid the photos and got a perfect match it was more like 2736mm or 285%.
Paul.
Humm... In theory, it should be x2.0 x1.5. Have you tried it stacking the other way around ? Would the thickness of the TC act as a spacer ?
Also, your scope is 600mm. Is it before or after adding the focuser which is acting as a spacer...
On another matter, I tried to find a resolution factor we could apply to compare complete setups - scope, teleconverters, barlows, spacers, DSLR. The resolution number derived from the target tells us how accurate the image is but it does not consider the distance. Obviously, a DSLR with a 50mm prime lens at 1m. will show better resolution than a DSLR/scope at 100m. What if we considered effective resolution as the resolution number on the target multiplied by the distance in meters needed to have the target full frame ?
Regards
Jules