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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Sony RX10 1V the new boy. (5 Viewers)

So I'm trying to set up the recommended settings for BIF and perched birds as per the article in dpreview quoted by GiG. I think I'm programming them into custom memory 1 and 2. How do I recall them? I thought it would be by pressing the C1/C2 buttons but that doesn't work. Also, when setting the ISO where do I find "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed"= Faster?

Sorry, but I really struggle with this stuff!
 
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So I'm trying to set up the recommended settings for BIF and perched birds as per the article in dpreview quoted by GiG. I think I'm programming them into custom memory 1 and 2. How do I recall them? I thought it would be by pressing the C1/C2 buttons but that doesn't work. Also, when setting the ISO where do I find "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed"= Faster?

Sorry, but I really struggle with this stuff!
Regarding your question about Auto ISO – Faster, go into Camera 1 in the menu, Page 7 of 14. Scroll down to ISO Auto Min SS and click the OK button (centre of the rear four-way control dial). This should bring up ISO Auto Min SS Standard. Click on the right of the four-way control dial to scroll through the various options.

You need to be in A or P mode for this. If you're in Manual or Shutter Priority, this option is greyed out in the menu.

As for your other question, that is one of the things that I abandoned with the Sony. I did manage to assign settings to C1 and C2, but I had to hold the button down to access them. As soon as I let go, they disappeared. I couldn't for the life of me figure out what, if anything, I was doing wrong. Given that I need my thumb for back button focus and another finger to fire the shutter, this just wasn't workable.

I now tend to walk around with the camera set up for birds in flight. If I see a perched bird, I can quickly change the focus mode and shutter speed if necessary, and I find this works okay most of the time.

Malcolm
 
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Regarding your question about Auto ISO – Faster, go into Camera 1 in the menu, Page 7 of 14. Scroll down to ISO Auto Min SS and click the OK button (centre of the rear four-way control dial). This should bring up ISO Auto Min SS Standard. Click on the right of the four-way control dial to scroll through the various options.

You need to be in A or P mode for this. If you're in Manual or Shutter Priority, this option is greyed out in the menu.

As for your other question, that is one of the things that I abandoned with the Sony. I did manage to assign settings to C1 and C2, but I had to hold the button down to access them. As soon as I let go, they disappeared. I couldn't for the life of the figure out what, if anything, I was doing wrong. Given that I need my thumb for back button focus and another finger to fire the shutter, this just wasn't workable.

I now tend to walk around with the camera set up for birds in flight. If I see a perched bird, I can quickly change the focus mode and shutter speed if necessary, and I find this works okay most of the time.

Malcolm
Thanks so much Malcolm, perfect!
 
So I'm trying to set up the recommended settings for BIF and perched birds as per the article in dpreview quoted by GiG. I think I'm programming them into custom memory 1 and 2. How do I recall them? I thought it would be by pressing the C1/C2 buttons but that doesn't work. Also, when setting the ISO where do I find "Auto ISO minimum shutter speed"= Faster?

Sorry, but I really struggle with this stuff!

It's been a while since I set this up but try as follows:

To programme the settings such as BIF: set up your required selections such as A, Iso, Focus Area etc. Then in the menu, go to Camera Settings 1, page 3 of 14 and go to the "Memory" option. Select which Memory location (1, 2 and 3 are on the camera and M1, M2, M3 and M4 will save to the SD card) you want to save that specific set up. Repeat for each different set up, but choose a new memory location.

I have set 1 to BIF, 2 to static birds, 3 to scenic shots, M1 using Shutter. To use the various saved options the mode dial needs to be set to the "MR" position.

Instead of C1 or C2 buttons I have programmed Memory Recall into the Fn button. To switch between configurations I press the Fn button, which brings up Recall and scroll left or right to the memory setting you want: 1, 2, 3 or M1 and press enter.

To programme the function button: press menu, go to Camera Settings 2, page 9 of 10 and go to the "Function menu set" option. Set (Function Upper 1) as "Shoot mode".

Gi
 
As I said in my reply to a previous post, I gave up on my attempt to assign settings to C1 and C2. However, after following your instructions above, I have now assigned my BIF settings to M1. As I usually shoot in Manual mode, I now just have to turn the mode dial one click to MR and I'm ready to go if I see a flying bird.

Many thanks for taking the time and trouble to post your instructions. Much appreciated. 👍

Malcolm
 
Thanks Gi, that's very clear and I'm grateful to you.

One thing that's infuriating me is that when I select MR2, in which the focus is set to Flexible Spot S, the green focusing rectangle is invariably in the bottom left hand corner of the screen. Trying to shift it up to the middle using the rocker fails: it's just stuck there. I can only get it move by changing the setting to Centre and then back to Flexible Spot 2, by which time of course the opportunity has gone.
 
Thanks Gi, that's very clear and I'm grateful to you.

One thing that's infuriating me is that when I select MR2, in which the focus is set to Flexible Spot S, the green focusing rectangle is invariably in the bottom left hand corner of the screen. Trying to shift it up to the middle using the rocker fails: it's just stuck there. I can only get it move by changing the setting to Centre and then back to Flexible Spot 2, by which time of course the opportunity has gone.

As Niels has said, keep the other settings you've set up, but change the location of the focusing rectangle and resave for MR2.
 
Just took the plunge and ordered the camera today. Can anyone recommend reliable spare batteries other than Sony. I've seen ravpower and Wasabi mentioned but on amazon they appear to only deliver to the States, I'm in the UK.
 
Just took the plunge and ordered the camera today. Can anyone recommend reliable spare batteries other than Sony. I've seen ravpower and Wasabi mentioned but on amazon they appear to only deliver to the States, I'm in the UK.
I bought these at Amazon uk
 

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What software are people using for editing. Is capture one any good or are there better alternatives, in the past I've used lightroom it is more than I want to be paying with yearly subscriptions.
 
What software are people using for editing. Is capture one any good or are there better alternatives, in the past I've used lightroom it is more than I want to be paying with yearly subscriptions.
I convert the raw files in Capture One 20 and process them in Lightroom. I have Ye Olde Lightroome (version 5), which I think was the last version you could buy outright. Like you, I don't want to be paying a subscription every year.

I'm sure that Capture One can do just as good a job as Lightroom with the Sony files, but I'm so used to Lightroom that I didn't want to have to learn a new lot of software, so I use Capture One 20 purely as a raw converter.

Malcolm
 
I convert the raw files in Capture One 20 and process them in Lightroom. I have Ye Olde Lightroome (version 5), which I think was the last version you could buy outright. Like you, I don't want to be paying a subscription every year.

I'm sure that Capture One can do just as good a job as Lightroom with the Sony files, but I'm so used to Lightroom that I didn't want to have to learn a new lot of software, so I use Capture One 20 purely as a raw converter.

Malcolm
Thanks, I used lightroom when It was a one off but I'm going to have to see what capture can. Don't want to be paying yearly for software so if capture doesn't work out I'll see what else is around.
 
Photo Editing Option:

In anticipation of buying a RX10 iv, (after slogging along with my old Canon SX10 for 15 years), I just discovered the wonderful free photo processing program called GIMP. It only took me about an hour to learn all I need to know about using it to do sharpening, size reduction, contrast, white balance, exposure, and a host of other operations I'll never need, and exporting photos taken in RAW format to JPEG or PNG files. I can't imagine anything you'd need to do to a digital photo that isn't possible in GIMP. The menu options, and the options available for the way you can perform many tasks, are extensive. It can be intimidating, at first, to the novice in image processing, but there are extensive tutorials available, and a help menu function within the program itself.

GIMP is free, open source software - so industrious people have written helpful plug-ins that allow the user to do, for example, batch processing (download a program called "BIMP" in order to add this feature to the menus), and to process RAW image files in GIMP. To process RAW images in GIMP, download the "darktable" program. Then, when you open a RAW image in GIMP, darktable will open, showing the image. When you close the darktable window, the image will automatically open in GIMP and be ready for your changes.

Another advantage of GIMP over many other editing programs: it takes up only a tiny fraction of the memory space required by a program like Photoshop. So, you can put it easily on portable media and carry it with you, and it works well on computers with relatively slow processors and limited RAM, compared to many others.

GIMP doesn't do everything Photoshop or Lightroom can do, but it is superb for editing digital photos. And it is free, although I gladly donated to the creators, after using it for an hour.
 
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In anticipation of buying a RX10 iv, (after slogging along with my old Canon SX10 for 15 years), I just discovered the wonderful free photo processing program called GIMP. It only took me about an hour to learn all I need to know about using it to do sharpening, size reduction, contrast, white balance, exposure, and a host of other operations I'll never need, and exporting photos taken in RAW format to JPEG or PNG files. I can't imagine anything you'd need to do to a digital photo that isn't possible in GIMP. The menu options, and the options available for the way you can perform many tasks, are extensive. It can be intimidating, at first, to the novice in image processing, but there are extensive tutorials available, and a help menu function within the program itself.

GIMP is free, open source software - so industrious people have written helpful plug-ins that allow the user to do, for example, batch processing (download a program called "BIMP" in order to add this feature to the menus), and to process RAW image files in GIMP. To process RAW images in GIMP, download the "darktable" program. Then, when you open a RAW image in GIMP, darktable will open, showing the image. When you close the darktable window, the image will automatically open in GIMP and be ready for your changes.

GIMP doesn't do everything Photoshop or Lightroom can do, but it is superb for editing digital photos. And it is free, although I gladly donated to the creators, after using it for an hour.
Thanks for this interesting info. I will have to look into it.
 
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