Umfolozi Part 4
Saturday
On Saturday we went to Hluhluwe travelled quite a distance.The land varied in both height and vegetation so we hoped we would see quite a few birds. We started off with some fairly common ones - Natal Spurfowland Cape Turtle Dove on the way down Mpila Hill, then found a little feeding party of birds we'd already seen, but including Long-billed Crombec. At the river there were Wire-tailed Swallows and Lesser Striped Swallows and then a lovely Striped Kingfisher perched on a bare twig quite close to the road. I haven't seen one of these since the '90's so I was quite excited and took about forty pics . . . all the same as it didn't move! We stopped at Mganu for tea and found Little Bee-eaters popping in and out of the vegetation, and then drove on towards the Centenary Centre where we hoped to buy a new tea-basket. On the way we saw an interesting sight - three zebra were trying to suck water off the surface of muddy footprints in a rapidly drying mud-wallow. They spent ages at this pastime, nuzzling each other gently off the most productive sludge and patiently drawing in about a teaspoon at a time of what looked like thick gravy. A whole family of warthog were waiting for them to finish, obviously respecting the Zebras' kicking and biting abilities. Tawny-flanked Prinias were flitting about in the bush behind them.
At the Centenary Centre we picked up a Grey-headed Bush-Shrike and a Cardinal Woodpecker and as we left - with our new tea-basket - a flight of Red-faced Mouse-birds wheeled overhead. Further on we saw quite a few African Pipits scuttling around in the grass near the side of the road. There is a bridge a little way before you get to the Nyalazi gate and as we drove over it, we picked up an awful smell, so we reversed back and had a look: there were the remains of a rather dead giraffe in the dry bed of the stream and whilst we were looking at it, a Yellow-throated Longclaw appeared in a thorny bush just beyond it and a Red-fronted Tinker-Barbet called from the thicket on the side of the stream.
Driving on into Hluhluwe, we came across Black-crowned Tchagras, Cape White-eyes and Lesser masked Weavers and then a rather interesting sighting of an African Yellow-bellied Bulbul which was flying at a Nyala , picking off the insects on its coat whilst still in flight and then twisting away and landing in a tree. It kept doing this but we couldn't see exactly what was attracting this behaviour. Once we got to Siwasamikhosikazi picnic site which is very well-treed and surrounded by thick bush we heard a Black-headed Oriole, which was soon traced to a nearby tree, Green Woodhoopoes giving their wonderful rendition of cackling old women and lots more White-browed Scrub-Robins hopping around on the ground.
The picnic site is on the edge of the Hluhluwe River just where it bends and in the past, water, rushing round this bend has worn the channel down, leaving a high cliff on the far side, and a not so high bank on the picnic-site side. Overlooking this area is a paved platform with a few benches on it. No-one else was there so we settled here and started looking for birds in the push at the side of the platform. Lots of them we'd already seen, but were able to add Red-capped Robin-Chat, Bearded Scrub Robin, Purple-crested Turaco, Brown Scrub-Robin, Pale Flycatcher and some Crested Francolin scuttling about in the reeds. Whilst doing this, I walked to the other end of the platform and idly looked down into the river bed just as a leopard walked out from the bushes and started sniffing around on the sand. I could hardly believe my eyes! In answer to my urgent signal my friend walked across and we stared in amazement. Just then the leopard looked up, froze in horror and then turned on itself in a flash and disappeared behind the reeds! We saw it once more a little later as it moved from one clump of reeds to another, then it was gone. Well that kind of distracted us from the birds for a while. We were constantly checking the slope of bush in front of us in case it had taken a notion to creep up and have birder for breakfast . . . .
We left the picnic site and started back for Umfolozi. On the way we saw our first Lilac-breasted Roller (so different from Kruger where there is one on every third tree), then a Brown-hooded Kingfisher, unusually, on the ground and then a Brown-crowned Tchagra, also on the ground. Later we saw a lot more of both kinds of Tchagra. As we passed the dead giraffe we stopped because there was a mass of feeding birds on it! White-crowned Shrikes, Brown-hooded Kingfishers, Dark-capped Bulbuls, Black and Brown-crowned Tchagras and White-fronted Bee-eaters. It seemed that the corpse was host to a large insect population to which these birds were attracted. It couln't have been the giraffe itself. It was biltong, believe me!
The last bird du jour was a Hamerkop flying down the river as we crossed it in the evening light.