Hluhluwe over the Easter Weekend
Obviously the Easter weekend is not the best time to visit somewhere for a tranquil weekend of birding and observing and both Hluhluwe and Umfolozi were fully booked so I was a tad apprehensive, but actually the roads were not busy and the camp was remarkably quiet. We had a self-catering chalet for three nights, then a rondavel for one, so from a generous-sized chalet with large bedroom, large lounge, well-supplied kitchen area, glass doors onto a deck overlooking the bush and a bathroom with bath and shower, we went to a mud hut with thatched roof out of the compost of which was growing a veritable forest of green things, no loo,no shower or bath, no kitchen and lots of bruise-making and toe-stubbing cupboards beds table and chairs in close proximity. However, we didn't mind one bit - we were there and that was all that was important.
I have never seen this region looking so lush. I would say that the carrying capacity for every species was probably as high as it could ever go in terms of food. The vegetation was rich, thick and green, trees were bursting with fruit (the figs especially were an amazing sight) there were masses of flowers, myriads of insects and, of course, water absolutely everywhere. So it didn't surprise us too much that we didn't see a huge number of animals - we could have passed fifty elephant 20m from the road without seeing a thing - but it was rather surprising that we didn't see very many birds.
We came in the Nyalazi gate and travelled slowly straight up to Hilltops. On the way we saw warthog, impala, a couple of elephants, one buffalo, some zebra, six rhino and some nyala and that was our total bag of animals. Our first bird was an African Harrier-Hawk doing its thing around the trees at the little bridge just to the left of the gate, then I was delighted to find quite a number of Red-backed Shrike as the times that we normally go into this park or Kruger are after they have left. Such a handsome bird. Fork-tailed Drongos abounded as did the Dark-fronted Bulbuls, and there were plenty of Yellow-throated Petronias about. The Barn Swallows were massing and feeding as fast as they could on millions of tiny insects. Then we came across Brown-hooded Kingfisher and Cape Turtle-Dove and, close to the camp, Red-winged Starling. That night whilst unloading we nearly walked into a slender, bright green snake draped across a tree in our path but upon inspection it turned out to be a Natal green snake and not a boomslang!
The next day we drove the Mansiya loop, but the river at the last crossing on the way back was too high and we retraced our route. We had stopped at the Nzimane causeway to watch the river and eat a yoghurt, when two guys dressed in rather faded and scruffy green fatigues with torn badges, armed with rifles and a very large bushknife came down the road towards us. As they passed us we said good morning but they were very unfriendly and unsmiling and we didn't feel comfortable sitting there as when they had passed us, they turned and stood in the shade of the trees and stared at us, so we drove on, but we could see them still watching us all the way up the road. By this time, we were thinking 'poachers?' of course and feeling a little unnerved, but when we checked with reception, they were apparently a patrol. . . . On this drive we saw Green-winged Pytilia, African Firefinch, Trumpeter Hornbill, Neddicky, Common Fiscal, Black-crowned Tchagra, Emerald -spotted Dove, Black -collared Barbet, Grassbird, Neddicky and Common Waxbill. Overhead soared a Black-chested Snake-Eagle, which I don't think is a common sight in Hluhluwe. We then went on to Siwa-samikhosikazi for a late brunch and some on-foot birding - Chinspot Batis, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Black-backed Puffback, Pied Wagtail and Sombre Bulbul were the only new birds picked up here and then back up to the waterhole at Isivivaneni seeing on the way Bully Canary, White-backed Vulture, Cape Vulture, and Egyptian Goose. We had tea with some Woolly-necked Storks fossicking in the water here before driving back to camp. The only new animals this day were vervet monkeys and giraffes but we saw lots more buffalo and some more rhino and elephants
On Saturday we decided to go to Umfolozi , again stopping at Siwa, and drove the Sontuli loop, which was remarkably lacking in anything alive, even people. We eventually found them all at the picnic site! No one had seen anything! The only new animal we added was a crocodile but again we saw large numbers of buffalo and plenty of other animals on the journey. The birds were Green-backed Eremomela, Burchell's Coucal, Martial Eagle, Rufous-naped Lark,Red-capped Robin-chat, Diderick Cuckoo, Purple-crested Turaco, Gorgeous Bush Shrike, Cardinal Woodpecker, Bearded Woodpecker, Cattle Egret, Pied Crow, White-faced Mousebird, White-fronted Bee-eater, Water Thick-knees, Blacksmith Lapwing, Yellow-billed Hornbill, Hamerkop, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Crested Francolin, African Hoopoe, Wire-tailed Swallow, Lesser-striped Swallow. On the way back, we found masses and masses of Barn Swallows clustered on the bushes looking like some kind of blossom or fruit from afar.
Sunday was the day we had to move out of our chalet and of course we couldn't move into our hut till the afternoon so we had to do some creative packing of the car, trying to separate the stuff we would need for the last night and put it at the back, also the stuff needed for a cooked breakfast,, and at the same time have space for our photographic stuff, binoculars, tea etc near the front.
Having achieved something that looked possible, we drove out past a large troupe of Samango monkeys into an amazing world. It looked as though the sea had crept up overnight and the hills were sticking out of a thick mist like islands. In places the mist was lapping up the hillsides in tumbling strands that looked like breaking waves. After some creative photography we made our way to Isivaneni and sat at the waterhole watching the mists receding and the sun coming out in shafts of light here and there. We picked up Kurrichane Thrush, Southern Black Tit and Black Flycatcher before moving down the hill towards Maphumalo. Black-headed Oriole came next, followed by White-bellied Sunbird and White-browed Scrub-Robin. At a little bridge near the picnic site, to my enormous surprise, I found a Half-collared Kingfisher. After not having seen one for ages, I now see two in as many months! We saw Grey Heron, Green-backed Heron, Malachite Kingfisher, Square-tailed Drongo and Green Woodhoopoe at the picnic site and then on the loop back to the main road, Natal Spurfowl. After this we went in search of elephant over Gontshi way, and found a good breeding herd, one baby was so tiny it couldn't have been more than a few weeks old.The drive back up the main road provided Stonechat, Familiar Chat, Terrestrial Brownbul, Brown -throated Martin and Crested Barbet. Oh and we saw red duiker in the forest.
On Monday we left and finally managed to see the elusive Southern Boubou which had been calling everywhere during the weekend but was invisible in the thick bush. We also saw Red-eyed Dove and probably Levaillant's Cisticola. Oh and heard a Crowned Eagle but couldn't see it.
I think that makes a total of 74 birds.