Hluhluwe/Imfolozi
We set off on Friday thinking that we have left ourselves plenty of time, but just getting out of Durban onto the N2 takes over an hour so by the time we get to the Nongoma road, we are running very late. We decide to go in via the Nyalazi Gate, not really sure whether it is faster, but thinking it might be a more pleasant drive. Of course we have no time to stop so we see very little other than Giraffe and White Rhino and we only manage to pick up two birds as we travel: Dark-capped Bulbul and Fork-tailed Drongo. Yes, I know. Oh, but on the way up, I nearly forgot, we see the first Yellow-billed Kite of the season (for me anyway!). Once at Hilltops, scraping in at six on the dot, we unpack quickly and sit down with drinks and olives to plan the next three days.
On Saturday we drive to Thiyeni Hide. On the way, not far from camp, we come across a Schotia brachypetala (please correct me if I'm mistaken) in full flower and absolutely zinging with birds. There are Cape White-eyes, Amethyst Sunbirds, White-bellied Sunbirds, Yellow-throated Petronias, Black-crowned Tchagras, Black-headed Orioles, Purple-banded Sunbirds and Black-collared Barbets. it is the most amazing sight and we sit here for ages just watching everyone enjoying their own particular brand of breakfast, or just using the tree to perch in the sun. Further down the road there are Red-eyed Doves and Emerald-spotted Wood-Doves in profusion. In fact virtually every fresh or near-fresh elephant plop has its own Emerald-spotted feeder grubbing around in it! Once on the Thiyeni road we see Bearded Woodpecker, Puffback Shrike and Brown-hooded Kingfishers, but at the hide itself, there is no water, and although we sit there for an hour we don't see so much as a beetle. So we make for Seme lookout and then loop round back to Siwa-Samikhosikazi picnic spot and pick up Burchell's Coucal, Whitebacked vulture (in a nest with young), Orange-breasted Bush-shrike, White-crested Helmet-Shrike,Yellow-eyed Canary, Red-billed Quelea and White-browed Scrub-Robin. I am a bit puzzled by the Burchell's Coucal because I wonder if it might be a Coppery-tailed Coucal, except of course that they aren't found here. It's tail is exceptionally long with a greenish tinge. Maybe they all have this tinge but its the first time I've noticed it.(see pic) Strangely it is not in the least shy and displays its tail and scuttles around in the grass for ages whilst we admire it.
At the picnic spot we fire up the skottle. We, or rather I, have forgotten the mushrooms, so its bacon and tomato and toast and marmalade for breakfast, whilst Scarlet-chested Sunbirds and Amethyst Sunbirds flash from tree to tree, Cape and Chinspot Batis call across the clearing and Trumpeter Hornbills cry like babies in a tree across the river, so that their calls bounce back at us from the cliff with eerie resonance. We also see Speckled Mousebirds here, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Pied Crow, Golden -breasted Bunting and Fiscal Shrike.. After a great breakfast, sitting at the furthest table beside the notice that warns you of the dangers of elephant, rhino, buffalo, leopard and lion, we slowly make our way back to camp. There are some Crested Guineafowl at the entrance to the picnic spot as we leave, and we see Sabota Larks and Tawny-flanked Prinias in the grassy areas on the way back.
The camp itself yields Crowned Hornbills which we see from the terrace of the reception area whilst we are sitting having a drink. Later there areCollared Sunbirds and a new tick for me - Grey Sunbirds, disporting themselves together with Amethyst and Purple-banded Sunbirds in an Erythrina which is in full flower on the lawn close to our hut.
In the afternoon we drive down the Isivivaneni road where we add African Hoopoe, Great Egret, Black Flycatcher, Hadeda Ibis, Egyptian Geese, Grey Heron and Kurrichane Thrush to the list.
We also add Buffalo, Impala, Kudu, Elephant,Zebra, Rhino and Nyala to our list of animals today. We have not seen many of anything so we think they must be elsewhere in the park. The waterholes are all dry and the rivers only have a few scummy pools in them, but there does seem to be a reasonable amount of edible vegetation around.
Back in camp we change our plans about having a braai, because it is now freezing cold and very windy, so we cook our braai meat on the stove.
Sunday morning is not inviting. it is cold and damp and there is a thick mist, so we don't go out quite so early, but by seven we are on the road towards the Memorial Gate and the dirt road loops to the North of the gate. The first bird we find is a Yellow-throated Longclaw, then White-throated Robin-chat, Blue Waxbill, Common Waxbill, Neddicky, Pied Wagtail, Spectacled Weaver and Southern Boubou are found in the scrubby bush that we drive through to get to the high grassland areas. From the view-site we see a large herd of elephant - fifty or sixty, with lots of babies and further along we become enmeshed in about seventy buffalo that decide to cross the road around our vehicle. So this is where all the animals are. There must surely be lion around with all these buffalo - an indeed we discover later that we missed them by taking the high road instead of the low! Rufous-naped Lark,Green-backed Camaroptera, Croaking Cisticola, Yellow-billed Kite, Crested Francolin, Long-crested Eagle are added to the list and when we get to the picnic site we pick up Lesser Striped Swallow, Natal Francolin, Woolly-necked Stork and Gorgeous Bush-Shrike. It is really cold and windy and wet now, so we make our way back to Hilltops and spend the afternoon reading instead of going out.
Monday is the day we visit the other end of the park - Imfolozi. It is still very cold, grey and with short sharp showers of rain. I forget to wrap my camera in its beanie so when we suddenly hear lion extremely close by and they walk out into the road right in front of us, the camera refuses to work properly and does slow,sludgy exposures that give really weird pictures. ( I have attached one of the lioness staring through the windscreen!)The three lion - one male and two females - surround the car, and the larger female stands right up against the front bumper and stares unnervingly at us through the windscreen. She looks as though she is about to jump up onto the bonnet and I find myself wondering if shatter-proof glass can withstand the weight of a fully grown and well-fed lioness . . . . Once they have abandoned us as possible prey and tried and failed to dig something out of the culvert going under the road, they move into the bush and we move on, only to come across three large hyaena about two km further on!
Birdwise, there is an good start when we find an African Finfoot in the Hluhluwe river near the picnic site and also a Malachite Kingfisher. Cape Turtle Dove, Long-billed Crombec, Black-bellied Starling and Helmeted Guineafowl soon get added to the list, and at the Black Umfolozi we add Pied Kingfisher, Water Thick-knees and Yellow-billed Stork. By now the weather has improved and the sun peers out now and then. In the bush on the Sontuli loop we find Brown-crowned Tchagra, and near the river Wattled Plover, White-fronted Bee-eater, Fiscal Flycatcher, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Crowned Plover and Bateleur Eagle. On the way back to Hilltops we see Southern Black Tit and a Tawny Eagle and when we stop at the Siwasamikhozikazi picnic site again, it is full of woodpeckers - Golden-tailed, Bearded and Cardinal Woodpeckers - great chance to listen to the different taps that they make - and we also find a Yellow-breasted Apalis. Back in camp we pack up so that we can leave by six the next morning.
The final journey down to the Memorial gate has, of necessity, to be undistracted, but in fact we are seduced by the mist and the sunrise and spend half an hour taking arty pics from a viewsite before finally making for the gate, which enables me to see a Spoonbill in a waterhole.
I think the total bird count is about 88 birds, but I know I have forgotten one or two , so if they come to mind I'll add them in.
The pics below show the Schotia brachypetala, the Coucal with the greenish tail, the weird lioness pic, a Bearded Scrub-robin and a Black-crowned Tchagra.