Kruger Park, 12th-16th December 2009
Having enjoyed a horizontal afternoon after a cold lunch back at Satara, we managed to rouse ourselves sufficiently to drive out along the Sweni Road (S126), which turns off westwards about 10km south of Satara, and follows the Sweni River upstream until the road meets the S36 at Musandzeni Picnic Site. Not that we would ever get that far......it was far too late in the afternoon, and the previous heavy rain had left these dirt roads just a little tricky. OK for the 4x4 brigade – but since I have a standard saloon, and none of the passengers felt much like pushing, I agreed to be careful.
The Sweni road, much as had the S100 N’wanetsi road that morning, proved to be lush and beautiful, the prevalence of Fan Palms Hyphaene pietersiana along the river putting me in mind irresistibly of the Okavango Delta. Large puddles on the verges and elsewhere were seething with countless tadpoles, providing a bonus for Hamerkops and other waders like Ruffs and Wood Sandpipers. The tadpoles were largish, and may have belonged to the African Bullfrog Pyxicephalus edulis, but that I cannot confirm.
Some of the Sycamore Figs Ficus sycomorus on the river bank were huge, and must, while fruiting, have provided sustenance to many animals and birds, of which African Green Pigeon, Trumpeter Hornbill, Thick-tailed Bush-baby, Baboon, Vervet Monkey, and assorted Barbets, Bulbuls and Mousebirds spring to mind. Southern Ground Hornbills (photo 1) and small groups of White Storks (photo 2) paced the lush grasslands with measured tread, while colourful Carmine and European Bee-eaters (photo 3)hawked insects from favourite perches. A laid-back baboon troop sauntered casually past, babies, seemingly all ears, perched like little jockeys on their mothers’ backs. No need to rush....there was food for everyone in this green paradise. On the north side of the road, a Slender Mongoose foraged for insects around a large rock half hidden in the long green grass.
I turned the car, and headed back along the way we had come. There was no point in going further, and having to rush back to reach camp before gate closing time. Pulling the car over to the verge, we broke out the coffee flasks for a temperate sundowner. Behind us the sun was sinking, setting the seed-heads afire with golden light, and masking everything in a glowing haze. Halfway through my first cup of coffee a group of elephants emerged from the riverine bush to our right, and sauntered, in that deceptively slow way that they have, towards the road. Now there’s a thing, thought I. If they were to do what they often do and stop for a browse on the road ahead of us, we might struggle to make closing time. So I started the engine, and drove forward some way beyond the slowly-advancing ellies. Now we could finish our coffee in peace, while they carried on their way. Until my daughter, sitting in the back seat and therefore just that little closer to the action, said ‘Er, Dad – there’s an elephant just behind us!’ Which there indubitably was, almost invisible in the haze which obscured the back-lit bush (photo 4). The sods must have turned through 90 degrees, and trundled up behind us without us even noticing. All part of the charm of the bush.
Back at the junction with the main H1-3, I checked my watch and saw we had a little time to spare. I turned south, intending to go just as far as the Sweni bridge to see what we could see. And I was very glad that I did for, right there and then, a fine breeding herd of elephant climbed up onto the road from the eastern side, crossed over, and headed off up the Sweni. And it got even better when we got to the bridge, for there were three white rhinos grazing alongside a group of zebra (photo 5). What a great way to end the day.
Best wishes,
Dave Kennedy