Kruger Park, 12th-16th December 2009
All good things come to an end, even KNP visits, and we woke to our last morning in the Park. We planned to leave via Orpen Gate, taking the H7 road which began just a couple of kilometres south of Satara. The bush was full of those obliging little birds, Red-backed Shrikes, sitting there in full view (photo 1, male, photo 2, female). Contrast these little guys with inveterate skulkers like Gorgeous Bush Shrikes and White-thoated Robin-chats. They and their cousin the Lesser Grey Shrike give the birdwatcher value for money.
The distinctive 4-note call of Rufous-naped Larks drifted across the grasslands. You could easily spot them, always in some prominent position elevated above the tops of the grasses. Some years ago I paced out the distance between calling larks, and found, in the Krugersdorp area, that it averaged around 150m. It would seem likely, therefore, that this would approximate the average diameter of a single territory.
Marabou Storks descending to the left of the road suggested something of interest, and sure enough, there was the remains of a kill with vultures, and Marabou in attendance. Both White-backed and Hooded Vultures were present (photo 3). The small head and fine beak of the Hooded Vulture can clearly be seen. We were delighted, for the Hooded Vulture was a first sighting for the trip and raised our vulture score to four, White-backed, Lappet-faced, White-headed and now Hooded.
I slowed down to look for ducks and water birds in Nsemani Dam, and then turned down the small, dead-end spur road which ran past the western edge of the dam. The occupants of a couple of parked cars were gazing excitedly into a thick copse which lay between us and the dam. What have we here, we thought. I turned at the end of the road and drove back to the two cars. And we spotted a long, black and gold, white-tipped tail waving in the undergrowth. Not bad, we thought, we haven’t seen any lions, but a leopard is welcome any day. It wasn’t the world’s greatest sighting – but at least he or she had manners enough to stand up briefly so that we could grab a look. I never cease to be amazed at how somebody, somewhere, somehow, will always come up with a brilliant sighting, no matter how well-hidden the animal.
And we were about to get even luckier. A philanthropic soul driving towards Satara signalled us to stop. “Are you heading for Orpen?” he said. “If you drive just one and a half kilometres down the S36 you’ll find a resting pack of wild dog. You won’t miss them, because a herd of zebra is keeping a very close eye on them.” And sure enough, exactly one and a half kilometres down the dirt road, there they were, dozing contentedly in the shade while a twitchy group of zebra kept a beady eye on them (photos 4 & 5). Note that this is a good tip if one is searching for predators. Any time you see a group of prey animals all staring in one direction, particularly if they are staring upwind, stop and look carefully. Chances are they have become aware, either by sight, sound or smell, of the presence of a predator.
And regretfully, that was about that for our visit. We stopped at Orpen to find that the small residential section had been substantially reconstructed, and looked absolutely great. Something to remember, perhaps, if you are battling to find accommodation in the park.
Note that I will still make one or two further posts about things of general interest - not necessarily birds - arising from our visit.
Best wishes,
Dave