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Southwest China 2024 (1 Viewer)

0: introduction


Throughout my recently years I have mostly lived abroad and have spent very little time in my home country: China. While I’ve explored some regions, like Qinghai, Sichuan, and parts of the east, much of China’s avian landscape remains new and unexplored territory for me. I have birdied in many countries: Ecuador, Peru, Malaysia, New Zealand, and the U.S., where I have done the vast majority of my birding. Compared to these countries, China does not lack in avian diversity, beauty, and abundance; in facts, China ranks 9th in no. of species in the world, surpassing the U.S. in 10th by 214 species (according to eBird).

Despite the excellent bird list, there are reasons why China doesn’t often come to mind when discussing the world’s premier birdwatching destinations. What China lacks is infrastructure associated with birding. Birding-related information is rather limited, and eBird, the primary source for me to find species and hotspots, has a very small user base in China. Moreover, the birding hotspots are rather remote and difficult to access, especially without insider knowledge. Contact info for guiding services also requires extensive digging online. In general, (imo) it is almost impossible to bird without a guide in China without extensive knowledge of the region its birds. Luckily, I received contact informations of some guides throughout a friend and one of the best birder/bird guide in the country: Qin Huang (Sign in).

I was eager to make the most of this rather rare long period of time I have to spend in China. After contacting some guides in Guangxi and Yunnan province (I live in Guangdong), I found that while Yunnan’s birding season is best from early to mid-November, Guangxi’s birds were in season now. I chose Guangxi’s Nonggang Nature Reserve as my first destination, planning to gradually venture west into Yunnan afterward.

Nonggang is often crowned as one of China’s premier birding destination in the country. The area is situated right on Guangxi’s border with Vietnam, meaning that Nonggang not only hosts species typical of southern China, it’s also the northernmost range of some South East Asian species, and particularly those of the Indochina Peninsula.



P.S. Much of the birding I will describe in this series will involve food-baited bird hides. I’m aware of the complexity and controversy on this topic, so I will just briefly share my humble two cents.

Unlike developed western countries and countries with sophisticated ecotourism infrastructure, China is rather behind in its environmental conservation awareness. This means that most, especially those in rural areas, are unaware of the necessity to protect and preserve nature.

Nonggang, located in one of the poorest provinces, is a remote area where conservation was once an unfamiliar concept for local villagers. However, with the recent growth of birdwatching across China, Nonggang’s residents are discovering that their local birdlife has potential as a source of income. Many villagers have become bird guides, and some have even set up hides to accommodate visiting photographers. As bird hides and guiding services become increasingly profitable, locals are placing greater emphasis on conserving native bird species—essentially, their livelihood.

I understand that food-baiting could potentially pose risks to the wild birds, but banning these baiting hides all together would cause the locals to lose a lot of revenue, which would in turn significantly reduce the locals’ interest in conserving birds and bird habitats. Weighing the two scenarios, which would I rather? The answer to me is clear.

I believe places like Nonggang are a step forward for nature conservation and the development of ecotourism in China. I hope that one day China will (again) be covered by pristine nature and develop a top-tier ecotourism industry (like those of Ecuador, Peru, etc.) that both nationals and foreigners can enjoy and appreciate.


Alright, enough said, lets start birding.
 
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1: Day 1 (10/25)


On October 25, after roughly 10 hours of driving from, I finally arrived in Nonggang. My bird guide had sent me coordinates for a bird hide known to attract the elusive Blue-rumped Pitta, a species primarily found in the Indochina Peninsula. Its distribution in China is limited to Nonggang, due to its proximity to Vietnam, and a few sightings in Hainan. Since I had my own car, I didn’t need transportation services from the guide, though the narrow, challenging road to the feeder made me particularly grateful for my SUV.

Upon arrival, I met the bird hide’s owner, who led me in and showed me the best spot to set up my camera for optimal shots. After placing the food bait, we settled in and patiently waited for our special guest to appear. Before the Pitta showed up, several other birds arrived to enjoy the mealworm feast and the small pool of water for bathing. Among them were White-throated Fantail, Indochinese Yuhina, Pin-striped Tit-Babbler, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, Gray-throated Babbler, Buff-breasted Babbler, David's Fulvetta, White-rumped Shama, and Small Niltava. Since I have never been birdwatching in Guangxi, all of them were new to me, making the wait for the Pitta all the more enjoyable.

After more than an hour of waiting, a male Pitta finally appeared. Although it no longer displayed its colorful breeding plumage in October, the bird was still stunning, just like any other Pitta species. With its powerful legs, it jumped down from the hill straight toward the mealworms. After nibbling for a few seconds, it left. I was disappointed by the brief sighting, but my guide reassured me that it would return.

And return it did, this time for a much longer visit. The bird lingered around the mealworms and took its time enjoying dinner. Those few minutes allowed me to capture fantastic photos and videos of the species. After the Pitta left, I waited a bit longer to see what else might come. As soon as the sun went down, I also left the hide and headed to my hotel.

Pic 1: Small Niltava
Pic 2 - 5: Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler
Pic 6: Pin-striped Tit-Babble
Pic 7, 8: Blue-rumped Pitta
Pic 9: Indochinese Yuhina
Pic 10: White-throated Fantail
 

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2.1: Day 2 (10/26)


Throughout my years of birding I have grown accustomed to rising early and arriving at the birding location by sunrise, if not before. So, when my guide suggested for us to meet at 8a.m., it felt quite late for me. After we met, he asked me if I was interested in seeing the Crested Serpent Eagle. Absolutely

Upon arriving at the eagle location, I was surprised to see the eagle tamely sitting on top of a high branch. About fifteen meters away was a group of photographers all with their equipment set up aiming at the eagle. Apparently, I was the last to arrive. “Are you ready?” the guide asked. Ready for what? Confused, I found a spot beside the group of photographers and deployed my own camera and tripod. When I gave him a thumbs-up, he whistled at the eagle.

At the sound, the eagle took off from the branch and dived towards a nearby dirt mound. I panned my camera following the eagle. As it landed on the dirt mound, I saw it seizing a snake, presumably put out by the guide. As the name suggests, the Crested Serpent Eagle was a skilled snake hunter. After just a few seconds of struggling, the snake surrendered. The eagle held the snake firmly in its stride and returned to its previous perch, where it enjoyed its meal.

After I have taken some photo and video footage of the eagle, the guide asked again if we were ready, explaining that the eagle was about to take off. Upon receiving our affirmation, he whistled again. With the half-consumed snake in its talons, the eagle launched itself into the distance, not to return. The heads-up from the guide allowed me to prepare for the eagle’s take off, yielding me excellent shots of the eagle in flight (the 30fps and the pre-capture feature on my new R5II certainly helped). What a majestic bird!
 

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Hey guys its my first time doing this. If any of you know how I can make the photos display immediately (like how I see them in many others' posts) instead of having them show up as attatchment files, please lmk. Thanks !
 
Hey guys its my first time doing this. If any of you know how I can make the photos display immediately (like how I see them in many others' posts) instead of having them show up as attatchment files, please lmk. Thanks !
Nice report. I suspect it might be to do with the size of the photos. You may need to edit them to make them smaller.
 
2.2: Day 2 (10/26)


Just as I wondered what could possibly top the experience I’d just had, my guide mentioned we were headed to the Nonggang Babbler feeder. The Nonggang Babbler, a species discovered only recently in 2008, is endemic to the karst forest region of Nonggang Nature Reserve. With such a restricted range, this bird is a must-see for anyone visiting the area.

After a short hike into the forest, we arrived at a small clearing scattered with plastic chairs. Surprisingly, there was no hide to conceal us from the birds; apparently, the Nonggang Babbler isn’t particularly shy and doesn’t mind humans nearby. Following the guide's instructions, I set up my camera, aimed toward the area where the bird was most likely to appear. Then, my guide went into the woods to try to call them over. After about an hour of waiting, I heard his distant shout that the babblers were on their way. And indeed, they arrived—not just one, but an entire flock of around ten, chipping and calling non-stop.

After a few quality minutes with the babblers, we left and headed to our next stop: the hide for the Bar-backed Partridge. Once I set up my camera, my guide pointed out power banks in case my phone’s battery ran out, and a hammock hanging in the corner. Seeing these amenities, I knew that I was in for a long wait. Sure enough, we arrived at the hide at 11 a.m., and my guide said he’d return for me at 3 p.m. to head to the next location.

At 11 a.m., the sun was high and the temperature hot, and the birding was slow. For the first hour only a Puff-throated Bulbul, a squirrel, a Grey-headed canary-flycatcher and a few Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babblers occasionally showed up to keep my camera busy. I was starting to question whether the partridge would appear at all. But after about two and a half hours in the partridge finally showed. Three came at the same time to feast on the corn laid out for them. Knowing that the partridge is a shy specie, I stayed extra quiet and even turned off my shutter sound to make sure that they are not spooked away. It worked: the birds lingered around the feeders for almost ten minutes, giving me plenty of time to take photos of them. As they left I also headed out of the hide and back to my car, to wait until 3 p.m. to go to the next spot.

At the next hide, my guide told me to expect Silver Pheasants and Indochinese Green Magpies. While the Silver Pheasant is widespread across southern China, the Indochinese Green Magpie is only found in Nonggang and Hainan in the country, making it a much higher-priority target for me. With its striking emerald-green feathers red bill and legs, and a black mask across its eyes, the magpie is truly unique, unlike the other birds of the area. Interestingly, the food of choice to attract the magpie was sliced pork, rather than the usual worms or seeds, which made me wonder what they typically eat in the wild. After some researching, I found that the magpie has a carnivorous diet, feeding on various insects, frogs, snakes, lizards, and contents of birds’ nests. Perhaps pork just has a special appeal to them.

The pheasant, to my delight, came almost immediately, but the magpie was yet to be seen. About twenty minutes in, another photographer arrived and sat beside me. She mentioned she was there specifically for the Silver Pheasant. I told her I’d seen it a few minutes before and hoped it would return soon. For the next two and a half hours, we kept each other entertained with conversation, and she kindly shared some hotspot recommendations and contact info for the western Guangxi coast. Unfortunately for her, the pheasant never returned, and for me, the magpie never came. The only notable birds were a few White-winged Magpies, a black, white, and gray corvid species limited to southwestern China and Indochina.

Pic 1-3: Nonggang Babbler
Pic 4: Puff-throated Bulbul
Pic 5, 6: Bar-backed Partridge
Pic 7: Silver Pheasant
Pic 8: Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher
Pic 9: White-winged Magpies
 

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2.2: Day 3 (10/27)


After meeting my guide at 8 a.m., he was surprised to hear that I missed the Indochinese Green Magpie yesterday. Determined to find it, he led me to a different hide where magpies were said to frequent. The morning started slow, with Red-billed Blue Magpies and Red-whiskered Bulbuls arriving at the seed feeders. The pork, however, was quickly claimed by a large, feisty Greater Coucal. Although not the intended diner, we enjoyed photographing the Coucal nonetheless. After nearly three hours and with the pork originally laid out for the Green Magpies now completely devoured, we started to lose hope. On our way out, I asked my guide if there were any other reliable spots for the magpies. Unfortunately, he explained that none of the hides had yielded consistent sightings recently. Such is the nature of bird photography—nothing is ever guaranteed.

We moved on to the next location, a peaceful spot by a small stream where I was told to expect the Chestnut-capped Babbler and Yellow-eyed Babbler. I set up my tripod, mounted my camera, and aimed it at a nearby branch where the birds were expected to land. My guide scattered a few mealworms on the ground, and as I was about to ask how long it might take, he simply replied, “They’re here already.” Two Yellow-eyed Babblers and a Chestnut-capped Babbler appeared immediately, hardly waiting for us to settle in. I quickly started snapping shots. After about a minute, the birds finished off the worms and flew off. As I was wondering if they would come back, my guide went to lay out more mealworms, and each time he added food, the babblers returned, giving me ample chances to capture photos and video.

As we were about to leave, I asked my guide if this time (late October) was really the best time for Nonggang. In honesty, given Nonggang’s reputation as one of the best birding spots in the country, I was expecting more. The green-magpie was a major miss for me, and the Long-tailed broadbill was also a specie that I wanted to see, which, unfortunately, was not in season. Before I came, I also read that Nonggang hosted a number of owl species, but my guide said that they haven’t had any luck finding them recently. He recommended returning later in winter or during spring breeding season for even better birding. Unsatisfied by my visit, I hope to return again soon to see what else the best of Nonggang has to offer. I expressed my gratitude and bid farewell to him, and I was on my way to Kunming, Yunnan province’s capital. The three days of birding in Nonggang costed around $85 USD, including guiding fees and individual hide fees. Compared to other locations I’ve visited worldwide and the guides I’ve hired, this experience was by far among the cheapest.

Pic1: Greater Coucal
Pic 2, 3: Red-whiskered Bulbul
Pic 4: Red-billed Blue Magpie
Pic 5: Chestnut-capped Babbler
Pic 6-9: Yellow-eyed Babbler
 

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I expressed my gratitude and bid farewell to him, and I was on my way to Kunming, Yunnan province’s capital. The three days of birding in Nonggang costed around $85 USD, including guiding fees and individual hide fees. Compared to other locations I’ve visited worldwide and the guides I’ve hired, this experience was by far among the cheapest.
Nice write-up again. That's a great price, does the guide have a website? Or another way to contact them?
 

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