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Swarovski focus wheels (1 Viewer)

aix123

Well-known member
Just thought I'd go out on a limb here and make some comments about the focuser or focus wheel - or whatever you prefer to call it - on four Swarovski binoculars, all of which I've tried and one of which I own (NL Pure 8x32).

I'm nowhere near as experienced as many here, but I've had such helpful responses to several previous comments that I feel okay about giving my views here. Though, of course, I'm happy to be told I'm wrong. And none of this is to suggest anyone should avoid Swarovski. On the contrary. The NL Pure I have is stunningly good.

The four are: NL Pure 8x32, CL Companion 8x30, CL Pocket 8x25 and Curio.

This issue has cropped up recently - if only briefly - in one or two other threads. At least one person (sorry, forgotten his name) agrees with me about the CL Companion. To put it simply, the focusers on all are generally smooth, with varying degrees of firmness, depending on the binocular. But I've come to the conclusion that all are less smooth, or more firm (if only a little), when focusing at around 25 feet. I have experienced this on all four. I'm absolutely certain it's the case. It is slightly less obvious on some (NL Pure, probably because it has the larger wheel) than others (CL Pocket and CL Companion).

If you focus on an object hundreds of yards away, or a hundred feet away, for example, and move the focuser backward and forward a little, it's smooth/easy. But then draw the focus back to approximately 25 feet, and it is firmer when you go slightly backward or forward. There is more resistance and a slightly different feel to it (drier, for want of a better word). It's sometimes quite subtle, but it's there. The resistance is more noticeable at that distance, though focusing at less than that distance (which I rarely do) the focuser is in general less smooth than it is at greater distances. I recently asked others here whether their Curio is slightly firmer at that distance, and no one thinks it is. But, as I say, I am certain it is, both on the Curio and the other three. But I'm not saying it's a fault.

If I'm right, and happen to be just about the only one here who notices it, perhaps it could be because of the internal mechanism. Maybe the increased resistance is due to some part of the mechanism which is only deployed at shorter focus distances. Or a cog which meets greater resistance at that point. I've never seen a video or article showing the dismantling of a Swarovski binocular. I wonder whether it differs much or at all from other binocular manufacturers in internal design. I can't remember what the focuser is like on a relative's Ultravid 10x32. I'll check it next week. On a low cost Vortex binocular I've had for a long time, the focus compared to the NL Pure has always been really firm, too firm in fact after using the Swarovski.
 
Yes, Swarovski's are like that. It is because of an internal spring they use in the focuser mechanism. It winds almost like a clock and then unwinds in the other direction. Some models are worse than others. As far as Swarovski's the NL has the best focuser with the EL a close second. The worst IME is the Swarovski SLC. 80% of the SLC's I have had, and I had about 10 of them, had more resistance in one direction than the other. If you want a smooth, consistent focuser without any lag or differences in clockwise and counterclockwise tension, get a Zeiss SF or Nikon EDG.
 
I think that in most cases, it's more that the infinity to middle distance part of the focus travel gets the most use, and therefore gets the most "run in" or smoothed out. If you were to regularly focus at nearer distances, then that part of the travel would also get similarly smooth. It is the case with some focus systems that the travel in one direction is slightly stiffer than the other, and this is often due to the action of return springs in the mechanism to take up any slack or backlash.
 
I've owned well over 20 Swarovski binoculars, and I will say that the focusers can vary. The only focusers I've
found issues with are the EL models, that means a little rough, sticky, etc. I have one right now that I am debating
on sending it in for that now.
The optics are top rate, but the focusers are the weak point.
A focuser is very important, as it is the first thing you notice when using a binocular. It leaves a bad feeling when
it makes you think about gaining that perfect view.
Jerry
 
Yes, Swarovski's are like that. It is because of an internal spring they use in the focuser mechanism. It winds almost like a clock and then unwinds in the other direction. Some models are worse than others. As far as Swarovski's the NL has the best focuser with the EL a close second. The worst IME is the Swarovski SLC. 80% of the SLC's I have had, and I had about 10 of them, had more resistance in one direction than the other. If you want a smooth, consistent focuser without any lag or differences in clockwise and counterclockwise tension, get a Zeiss SF or Nikon EDG.
I had no idea about this. Thanks for your reply. I don't feel too bad about my NL, now. Because although it's superb, the focuser was bothering me a bit, tbh. Because once you notice it, it's hard to ignore when you've no idea about the cause. I do wonder though whether it might have been better if the focuser had been designed to be slightly stiffer - then any difference in resistance would, I assume, be less noticeable. I'm not sure why I also experience slightly more resistance specifically when focusing at around 25ft - whichever way the focuser is being turned. No doubt it again relates to the mechanism - because I experience in all four binoculars I mention above.

Having said that, it's not that often that I need to focus at that distance - but I do so enough times to have noticed it.

One thing which is taking a bit of getting used to is having to rotate the focuser more when altering focus distance, compared with some binoculars.
 
One thing which is taking a bit of getting used to is having to rotate the focuser more when altering focus distance, compared with some binoculars.
Sometimes this makes me wonder whether NL was really designed for birding.
I'm not sure why I also experience slightly more resistance specifically when focusing at around 25ft
I don't notice this in any of my SLCs (42 and 56)... but have no experience with the models you mentioned.
I do wonder though whether it might have been better if the focuser had been designed to be slightly stiffer - then any difference in resistance would, I assume, be less noticeable.
Yes, I think you're right about this. The focuser is actually stiffer on the 56s, and the CW/CCW asymmetry becomes so slight that I never noticed until I consciously looked for it, after getting the 42. But really this is all a bit obsessive; even on SLC 42, I stopped noticing the asymmetry after a couple of days because it doesn't actually interfere with use. I suppose one might wish the spring had been set up the other way around, because it takes more effort to push with the finger than to pull; lighter resistance could have canceled that, and everyone would be talking about how SLCs have the smoothest focuser ever.
 
Yes, Swarovski's are like that. It is because of an internal spring they use in the focuser mechanism. It winds almost like a clock and then unwinds in the other direction. Some models are worse than others. As far as Swarovski's the NL has the best focuser with the EL a close second. The worst IME is the Swarovski SLC. 80% of the SLC's I have had, and I had about 10 of them, had more resistance in one direction than the other..................

I've owned well over 20 Swarovski binoculars, and I will say that the focusers can vary. The only focusers I've
found issues with are the EL models, that means a little rough, sticky, etc. ......

The optics are top rate, but the focusers are the weak point.

I had no idea about this. Thanks for your reply. I don't feel too bad about my NL, now. Because although it's superb, the focuser was bothering me a bit, tbh. Because once you notice it, it's hard to ignore when you've no idea about the cause. I do wonder though whether it might have been better if the focuser had been designed to be slightly stiffer - then any difference in resistance would, I assume, be less noticeable. I'm not sure why I also experience slightly more resistance specifically when focusing at around 25ft - whichever way the focuser is being turned. No doubt it again relates to the mechanism - because I experience in all four binoculars I mention above.

Having said that, it's not that often that I need to focus at that distance - but I do so enough times to have noticed it.

One thing which is taking a bit of getting used to is having to rotate the focuser more when altering focus distance, compared with some binoculars.

WOOW a bit confused here. Can a standardised product give such different results in all 3 different models, SLC, EL, NL?
I have to admit that owning an EL, the focuser is not 100% perfect for birding.
.........The optics are top rate, but the focusers are the weak point...........
ABSOLUTELY agree. Though I believe the focuser problem has been solved with the NLs. I do not think you can complaint about the NL focus mechanism. Fogginesh maybe, flare maybe. But this areas are off this topic.
 
All of those models have different focuser designs, my only complaint has been with
the EL. Just to make myself clear. I said that above.
Jerry
 
All of those models have different focuser designs, my only complaint has been with
the EL. Just to make myself clear. I said that above.
Jerry
Same here....I didn't like the EL focusers, but the 10x56 SLC feels OK to me. Not up to Zeiss/Nikon smoothness, but decent smoothness. It's easier to turn the wheel than the EL 32's and 42's I tried. FWIW, trying at the store - did not like CL focusers either, NL was OK.

I just checked the SLC focuser again - I didn't think the resistance was harder in one direction that the other, but specifically looking for it, yes it's slightly easier to turn the wheel in one direction. But overall it's smoother moving and easier action than the EL's I tried. I much preferred the Zeiss 10x54 HT's body and focuser to the 10x56 SLC, but the SLC's optics are vastly better IMO.

To me it looks like Swaro and Leica finally decided to compete on focusers with the NL's and Noctivids. I hope they spread the improvements to the rest of their lines over time. My reaction to EL's, CL, and Leica UVHD's and Trinovid BN's was "I can't believe they expect me to use this" :rolleyes: FWIW....Nikon Monarch HG not much better.....Zeiss SFL excellent
 
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Same here....I didn't like the EL focusers, but the 10x56 SLC feels OK to me. Not up to Zeiss/Nikon smoothness, but decent smoothness. It's easier to turn the wheel than the EL 32's and 42's I tried. FWIW, trying at the store - did not like CL focusers either, NL was OK.

I just checked the SLC focuser again - I didn't think the resistance was harder in one direction that the other, but specifically looking for it, yes it's slightly easier to turn the wheel in one direction. But overall it's smoother moving and easier action than the EL's I tried. I much preferred the Zeiss 10x54 HT's body and focuser to the 10x56 SLC, but the SLC's optics are vastly better IMO.

To me it looks like Swaro and Leica finally decided to compete on focusers with the NL's and Noctivids. I hope they spread the improvements to the rest of their lines over time. My reaction to EL's, CL, and Leica UVHD's and Trinovid BN's was "I can't believe they expect me to use this" :rolleyes: FWIW....Nikon Monarch HG not much better.....Zeiss SFL excellent

The EL is the only one that uses a spring to help the focuser go back and forth, that is why the
reports of the resistance thing, not really an issue. The only model with an open bridge design is
the EL, and Swaro. decided to do it this way.
Jerry
 
For me 42mm SLCs are the most common offender with some ELs though not a frequent or to the same degree. ALL are certainly still manageable but it is what it is...
 
The EL is the only one that uses a spring to help the focuser go back and forth, that is why the
reports of the resistance thing, not really an issue. The only model with an open bridge design is
the EL, and Swaro. decided to do it this way.
Jerry
The spring loading is there to maintain synchronicity of the focussing lenses (no wandering dioptre setting).
I notice it on my 2003 7x42 SLC, 2011 10x42 EL and 2020 8x56 SLC.
The 7x42 SLC has a +ve focussing lens (actually more of a moving doublet objective), whereas the other two have -ve focussing lenses.
All focus clockwise to infinity but strangely both SLCs require lighter torque to infinity despite different directions of their focussing lenses.
The EL requires more torque towards infinity focus and I think the attempt to incorporate a focussing mechanism into a 15 mm bridge was over-ambitious.
Despite a tune-up in Absam soon after I bought it, it's the worst of the three.

John
 
Since starting this thread, it's got a bit warmer here in the UK - and I think that's may have helped the focus wheel, or rather my personal experience of it. Now I can hardly notice the slightly increased resistance when focusing at around 25 feet. Long may the warm weather continue!
 
Yes, Swarovski's are like that. It is because of an internal spring they use in the focuser mechanism. It winds almost like a clock and then unwinds in the other direction. Some models are worse than others. As far as Swarovski's the NL has the best focuser with the EL a close second. The worst IME is the Swarovski SLC. 80% of the SLC's I have had, and I had about 10 of them, had more resistance in one direction than the other. If you want a smooth, consistent focuser without any lag or differences in clockwise and counterclockwise tension, get a Zeiss SF or Nikon EDG.

...or a Noctivid.
 

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