View through binoculars (1 Viewer)

[01101001]

I use 8x32 binoculars, which seem to be the standard in terms of magnification. It bugs me, however, that I can hardly see the collar on collared doves perched at a 25 metres distance and let go of tits unless I see them well with the naked eye. I sometimes use the camera zoom, but it's troublesome and takes time. Is it my eyes, my corrective glasses (around - 4 dioptres in each eye), my bins (Carl Zeiss Jena Notarem 8x32B mc)--perhaps should I carry two pairs at once--or is it the way it's supposed to be with the said parameters? What am I getting wrong?

 

[William Lewis]

Tricky to say. Have you tried different binoculars? I use 8x32 porros when I'm out and about quite often and don't suffer the same problems. There are standard set up things that any binocular user needs to attend to to get the best image but I won't patronise you with them without knowing how much you've use bins! If you have had the zeiss from new it could be a while!

 

[yarrellii]

I'd say that 20 - 25 m away is not really far away to not being able to enjoy a view. If we do a (maybe too) simple calculation; an 8x takes thing 8 times closer. So that should make those 25 m probably not like 3 m, but absolutely less than 10 m.
I don't wear glasses, so I can't comment on that, but on "bush/trees" what works for me is scanning with the naked eye, very calm and steady, looking for movement, the faintest move somewhere. At that moment, I simply raise the binoculars (that I was already holding in my hands) and do the same gesture you make to put your glasses on: without stopping to look at the bird in question, I simply "put the binos on" and I can enjoy whatever it is. When it's distant birds (like on marshes/seaside), I scan with binos and then use the scope for detail.

As a general comment, I second what William Lewis says, maybe you could borrow some other binoculars and see if you can spot a difference; if it's the binos or simply a matter of technique (or simply expectations). One thing I've seen in people who have not used binoculars (I also agree with William in that I don't know how long you've been using them) is that their expectations are very high and sometimes they get disappointed. If we go to see flamingos, they're used to impossible close-up views from National Geographic images, and when they see the flamingos through binoculars, well... it's just not the same. I don't know if this is the case. I hope that helps.

 

[Binastro]

Canon IS binoculars in 8x or 10x should help.

Regards,
B.

 

[01101001]

If you have had the zeiss from new it could be a while!

No, not from new. Quite the contrary.

There are standard set up things that any binocular user needs to attend to to get the best image

I've only seen two dials: one is for focus, and the other one is probably for the left eye with a scale (in dioptres?) in the middle--or that's what I make out of it. Anyway, I use my binoculars the way one would use a scope because no matter how narrowly I fold them, they're still a tad too wide apart.

 

[Pinewood]

Hello,

I would try, in a shop, an up to date 8x32, with an interpupillary distance narrow enough for you. The Notarem is a rather old design.

Stay safe,
Arthur Pinewood

 

[Bino Steve]

Dear " I love you", ( clever with the binary there) , it sounds like you need to get to a store and try out some binos that fit your ipd ( eye distance apart) also, doing you have any color rendering problems with your eye sight? Do you have other birders in your area you can try their binos? . It's risky to just spend money mail order if you are having an issue. You need to test other binos out. Good luck.

 

[Ratal]

I use 8x32 binoculars, which seem to be the standard in terms of magnification. It bugs me, however, that I can hardly see the collar on collared doves perched at a 25 metres distance and let go of tits unless I see them well with the naked eye. I sometimes use the camera zoom, but it's troublesome and takes time. Is it my eyes, my corrective glasses (around - 4 dioptres in each eye), my bins (Carl Zeiss Jena Notarem 8x32B mc)--perhaps should I carry two pairs at once--or is it the way it's supposed to be with the said parameters? What am I getting wrong?

You will be shocked if you tried a new binocular - yours are what? 40 - 45 years old now?

 

[dries1]

The Notarem 8X32 focus and diopter are on two parallel disks (directly adjacent to each other) on the bridge, and they have to be calibrated, otherwise the focus will always be out, I have one and after calibration it works perfectly well at 25 yards. However as Arthur and Ratal have implied, they are rather old in the tooth. They were built in the days when one could get much more pleasant views from a porro.

 

[lilcrazy2]

No, not from new. Quite the contrary.

I've only seen two dials: one is for focus, and the other one is probably for the left eye with a scale (in dioptres?) in the middle--or that's what I make out of it. Anyway, I use my binoculars the way one would use a scope because no matter how narrowly I fold them, they're still a tad too wide apart.

As others have said, trying some newer binos with an IPD that is suitable for you would be a worthwhile endeavor. And based on your uncertain comment about the diopter and left eye, it seems you could benefit from learning how to properly set the focus and diopter control.

 

[tenex]

I've only seen two dials: one is for focus, and the other one is probably for the left eye with a scale (in dioptres?) in the middle--or that's what I make out of it. Anyway, I use my binoculars the way one would use a scope because no matter how narrowly I fold them, they're still a tad too wide apart.

There's a lot of general information about binoculars online. By convention the diopter affects the right barrel, so to set it you focus until the image is sharp for the left eye, then adjust the diopter (only) until it's also sharp for the right. But if this Notarem won't even adjust to your interpupillary distance it's no use, you must find a binocular that will. Then learning to use it will be easy enough.

Dear " I love you", ( clever with the binary there)

? ... all I see is "i".

 

[01101001]

Dear " I love you", ( clever with the binary there) , it sounds like you need to get to a store and try out some binos that fit your ipd ( eye distance apart) also, doing you have any color rendering problems with your eye sight? Do you have other birders in your area you can try their binos? . It's risky to just spend money mail order if you are having an issue. You need to test other binos out. Good luck.

Wow, I was wondering how it could be construed, but I didn't see THAT coming! It was meant to be the third element of the Thue-Morse sequence for characters '0' and '1' (simple as it is, right?), but I like your interpretation so much better and also the fact I'm so clever I clearly outwitted myself.

 

[01101001]

doing you have any color rendering problems with your eye sight?

When the sky is overcast all birds do appear darker (those flying, obviously, but also the ones perched) and the details become less visible (a bit more like a silhouette but without backlight). If I take photos, though, they're dimmer as well, so maybe there is not enough light objectively. Also, I routinely second-guess any ID features I spot, and not without cause, as sometimes I'm seeing things the first time round with/without binoculars when I only get a short glimpse (white wing stripe vs white trailing edge in waders, cheek pattern in woodpeckers, minor shape and colour details). I don't think the second thing is eyesight related, though.

 

[William Lewis]

When the sky is overcast all birds do appear darker (those flying, obviously, but also the ones perched) and the details become less visible (a bit more like a silhouette but without backlight). If I take photos, though, they're dimmer as well, so maybe there is not enough light objectively. Also, I routinely second-guess any ID features I spot, and not without cause, as sometimes I'm seeing things the first time round with/without binoculars when I only get a short glimpse (white wing stripe vs white trailing edge in waders, cheek pattern in woodpeckers, minor shape and colour details). I don't think the second thing is eyesight related, though.

Sounds like you have a few options to play with to get the best result from using binoculars. I suspect when you find a pair that fits your face and needs they will be a great asset to your birding.

For the biggest difference in brightness have a check on the transmission figures of the binoculars you try, gijs who regularly contributes here goes to great effort to test the transmission of various models and has tested quite a lot over the years both classic and modern, they are on his website here https://www.houseofoutdoor.com/verrekijkers/verrekijkers-testen-en-vergelijken/ I'm not sure if he's tested your current bins but Roger Vine on scope views has the transmission estimated at around 80%, to put that in perspective some modern porro and roof prisms can easily be in the 90-96% range.

When your looking at using your binoculars in dark or dim conditions if you can comfortably carry them then ones with larger objectives and a lower magnification will be brighter, I habitually use 8x56's but am an outlier - a modern 8x42 will be a big change in performance if it fits your ipd range. Incidentally I'm struggling to find the specs of the ipd range of your current bins so you may have to measure the minimum to ensure any ones you try are at least less!

 

[takitam]

Are these your first binoculars? A lot of the time, sellers of old Zeiss optics advertise them as much better than new binoculars. That sounds believable to people with no experience who want to save money. Try buying respectable bins in your price range online and compare (don't buy cheap bins with hundreds of 5-star amazon reviews trying to be a 'smart shopper'). This will tell you a lot. I recommend bins in 600-1000$ price range if you want quality, Nikon is usually a safe choice for a beginner. Others are Kowa 8x33 XD, Meopta Meostar, Zeiss Conquest and Leica Trinovid. Canon 10x30IS is different but very good also. For other options, you can spend weeks browsing this site

 

[Troubador]

Are these your first binoculars? A lot of the time, sellers of old Zeiss optics advertise them as much better than new binoculars. That sounds believable to people with no experience who want to save money. Try buying respectable bins in your price range online and compare (don't buy cheap bins with hundreds of 5-star amazon reviews trying to be a 'smart shopper'). This will tell you a lot. I recommend bins in 600-1000$ price range if you want quality, Nikon is usually a safe choice for a beginner. Others are Kowa 8x33 XD, Meopta Meostar, Zeiss Conquest and Leica Trinovid. Canon 10x30IS is different but very good also. For other options, you can spend weeks browsing this site

Good recommendations.

Lee

 

[Bino Steve]

Wow, I was wondering how it could be construed, but I didn't see THAT coming! It was meant to be the third element of the Thue-Morse sequence for characters '0' and '1' (simple as it is, right?), but I like your interpretation so much better and also the fact I'm so clever I clearly outwitted myself.

I only knew you had some clever reason for the binary. I see it's just " i " I read something wrong online about its meaning as i love u, but glad you got a laugh. See, this is why I should stick to reading newspapers and wrenching on binoculars.....alone......in the dark.....😭

 

[tenex]

When the sky is overcast all birds do appear darker (those flying, obviously, but also the ones perched) and the details become less visible (a bit more like a silhouette but without backlight). If I take photos, though, they're dimmer as well, so maybe there is not enough light objectively.

Even the best binoculars won't solve this problem. Then again, you can notice shape or behavior, whatever you can see. I recall silhouettes featuring prominently in Peterson's classic "How to Know the Birds".

Others here have narrow eye spacing. If they don't notice this thread, try starting another titled "Need bins for narrow IPD" and you'll get some good recommendations. There have been discussions of "Bins for kids" but understandably they focus on rather cheap models.

(Thue-Morse is fascinating, compared to my/our search for ASCII character values. Even some sports are thinking of adopting it.)

 

[dantheman]

Wow, I was wondering how it could be construed, but I didn't see THAT coming! It was meant to be the third element of the Thue-Morse sequence for characters '0' and '1' (simple as it is, right?), but I like your interpretation so much better and also the fact I'm so clever I clearly outwitted myself.

I googled '01101001 binary' and it came up with 69 as the first result.

(Hexadecimal, ie non-binary). Clearly google lowering the tone!

Can't help much extra on the bins, but would hazard that even a modern pair of £150 - £250 bins could be an eye-opener in solving some of the issues. (Do you get eg Opticron in Poland?)

 

[Bino Steve]

"Thue-Morse is fascinating, compared to my/our search for ASCII character values. Even some sports are thinking of adopting it."
Hurts my head reading about that, and I took some C++ classes....... oh well, "here birdie birdie birdie...., nice birdie..."