May I ask those who are fortunate to have more than one or few good binoculars, have you compared the hand-held steadiness between the heavier vs the lighter weight of your binoculars? Do you feel (or in your experiments) the heavier weight help or make worse for holding steady the binoculars?
E.g. between your same make models of binoculars 8x42 vs 8x32, 10x42 vs 10x32, which one is easier to hold steadier, the 42 or the 32?
Or between a pair of heavier 8x42 vs a pair of lighter weight 8x42? And so on...
Other words, does the "weight" help to dampen the hand-held shaking or the opposite?
I think this is going to be a very individual thing with a number of other factors coming into play, and also exhibit temporal variance. Everyones frequency response of vibration is going to be very different.
As (or more) important as any slight variations in weight is ergonomics, and the steadiness and suitability of the grip.
Then there are physical properties such as the centre of mass, and polar moments of inertia of the binocular, and the biomechanics induced by its relation to the grip point of the binocular.
I find rock-like binoculars with small polar moments of inertia far steadier to hold than large 'airy' low density binoculars. For example I found the glass dense, physically smaller 10x42 Prime HD to be much steadier to hold than the 'wings out' low density 8.5x44 ED Swift Audubon.
There are those that rave about the contrived ergonomics of bins such as the Zeiss SF, and now the Swarovski NL pure with their forced hands forward focusing position. While this does indeed induce a moment of force which acts to tip the binocular backwards (a bonus when looking ahead) , it also forces the hands and hence arms away from the body - this induces a detrimental moment of force tipping forward due to the weight of the arms. This must be balanced with a reactionary moment in the user's body by a contactionary force in the shoulders (less than ideal since these are small muscles which fatigue easily) and the core muscles. Not ideal.
By far the best solution is get the ergonomics right (some individual variation there) , have the grip position, balance point, and centre of mass as close together as possible without contrived positioning of mechanisms. Forget the marketing bunkum.
For me, I find good ergonomics come with hand filling tube diameters. I like the Swarovski x50 SV sized tubes much more than the x42 size. However, I don't like the weight so much (particularly in carting around). I much prefer the weight of the x32 SV, however the tube diameters are so small as to feel quite dinky for me. If I wrap my beach volleyballer's hands and fingers right around to the opposite barrel then the grip steadys up a bit, but is pretty unnatural and annoying.
Magnification also plays an important part. Higher magnifications being harder to hold steady even with the exact same design. For example, I find the Swarovski 10x50 SV to be one of the steadiest bins to hold - it fills my hands nicely with it's fatter tubes. However, I usually find the 12x50 SV a bit of a step too far - mostly (but not always) being a bit jittery of a view - sometimes enough to make me uncomfortable (beginnings of the effects of motion sickness).
An individual's frequency response of vibration is affected by all of these factors as well as having it's own natural frequency tendencies. These can also be influenced by condition, biological and biochemical variations, as well as temporal variations. Whether frequency, amplitude, or waveform pattern affects the view to a greater or lesser degree can also depend of physical factors which magnify these effects, like exit pupil size, design of binocular with relation to randpupille (greater bringing ease of view) , and whether distortions and other aberrations outside of the sweet spot become noticeable.
Size of the subject also comes into play. I'm sure I've forgotten to mention other factors too.
Chosun 🙅♀️