What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
New review items
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Reviews
New items
Latest content
Latest reviews
Latest questions
Brands
Search reviews
Opus
Birds & Bird Song
Locations
Resources
Contribute
Recent changes
Blogs
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
ZEISS
ZEISS Nature Observation
The Most Important Optical Parameters
Innovative Technologies
Conservation Projects
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
BirdForum is the net's largest birding community dedicated to wild birds and birding, and is
absolutely FREE
!
Register for an account
to take part in lively discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
Forums
Photography, Digiscoping & Art
The Birdforum Digiscoping Forum
Photography using 'Astro' telescopes
what is the best scope for digiscoping??
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Paul Corfield" data-source="post: 1505359" data-attributes="member: 19132"><p>Not too bad. The WO scopes are nicely made but optically they are a bit behind even the cheap Chinese 80ED's. The scope I had before my 80ED was a Zenithstar which I sold for more than I paid for it in the first place so it was a good stepping stone to a better scope.</p><p></p><p>What ISO are you shooting at and how well does the D300 handle high ISO? I shoot at ISO800 for nearly everything with my Canon 450D because no noise is visible and it gives high shutter speeds. If I don't use a teleconverter then I can shoot at between ISO100 to ISO400. I don't put a teleconverter on for small birds until I get over 20m range and anything under that can be cropped while keeping good levels of detail. For a bird about the size of your parrots I could photograph at about 40m without needing the teleconverter. </p><p></p><p>This Sparrow is an example of a fairly tight crop taken at around 20m range without a teleconverter. ISO 400 and 1/1000 sec shutter speed. I tend to shoot hand held, as in the scope is on the tripod but I have all the axis loose so I can tilt and pan around. I focus through the viewfinder and use continuous shutter for small bursts. I refocus every few shots which means I get a high ratio of keepers. Working this way means I can be set up and on a bird within a few seconds and can follow it where ever it goes without having to get everything set up rigid, switch to live view, wait for all vibrations to stop, mirror lock up etc and by then the bird has gone. I'm more hands on, just point the scope and click away. |=)|</p><p></p><p>Paul.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Paul Corfield, post: 1505359, member: 19132"] Not too bad. The WO scopes are nicely made but optically they are a bit behind even the cheap Chinese 80ED's. The scope I had before my 80ED was a Zenithstar which I sold for more than I paid for it in the first place so it was a good stepping stone to a better scope. What ISO are you shooting at and how well does the D300 handle high ISO? I shoot at ISO800 for nearly everything with my Canon 450D because no noise is visible and it gives high shutter speeds. If I don't use a teleconverter then I can shoot at between ISO100 to ISO400. I don't put a teleconverter on for small birds until I get over 20m range and anything under that can be cropped while keeping good levels of detail. For a bird about the size of your parrots I could photograph at about 40m without needing the teleconverter. This Sparrow is an example of a fairly tight crop taken at around 20m range without a teleconverter. ISO 400 and 1/1000 sec shutter speed. I tend to shoot hand held, as in the scope is on the tripod but I have all the axis loose so I can tilt and pan around. I focus through the viewfinder and use continuous shutter for small bursts. I refocus every few shots which means I get a high ratio of keepers. Working this way means I can be set up and on a bird within a few seconds and can follow it where ever it goes without having to get everything set up rigid, switch to live view, wait for all vibrations to stop, mirror lock up etc and by then the bird has gone. I'm more hands on, just point the scope and click away. |=)| Paul. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes...
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Photography, Digiscoping & Art
The Birdforum Digiscoping Forum
Photography using 'Astro' telescopes
what is the best scope for digiscoping??
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more...
Top