What's on in Doñana (1 Viewer)

[Jose A. Sanchez]

FEBRUARY 16th

Jane and Andy had taken a tour with me several times before; this year they came a bit earlier to take a few days playing golf at Matalascañas as usually and experience the Doñana nature again. I met them early at El Rocío, at 8 o'clock, before sunrise and spent the whole morning exploring the northern forests and marshes with them. They are enthusiastic birdwatchers so apart from enjoying magnificent views of large herds of Reed and Fallow Deer along the marshes edge, we tried to fill a few gaps in their bird lists. I am going to summarize what we had.

In the pine forests we had first a couple of Little Owls perched on their usual tree, several Red Kites and Common Buzzards starting to work early, a large group of Azure-winged Magpie feeding from horse dung. We heard Wren and Serin singing all around, spring is just coming and birds are getting ready. From the cork oak forest edge we had an early white morph Booted Eagle, a male Hen Harrier and two pairs of Black-shouldered Kites. While entering the marshes and looking for a Great-spotted Cuckoo which we did not manage to see that day we found three Little Bustards resting among the low bushes and several Common Cranes feeding nearby. From the next stop at Cancela de la Escupidera, from where we could see a good part of the Hinojos Marshes, we saw several thousand Greylag Geese, Calandra and Crested Larks, Golden Plover, several Marsh Harriers and a good number of White Storks already nesting over the oaks.

As we move across the marshes we found several Great White Egrets, the first Swifts of the season for me and small groups of Lesser Short-toed Larks and Skylarks. We stopped to try and find some Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. We heard many passing in flight and got to find one feeding on the ground next to the geese, a fine male in full breeding plumage. A bit further east we found large numbers of waders in the shallow waters including Spotted Redshank, Black-tailed Godwit and Lapwing. A flock of about 5 hundred Greater Flamingo flew passed nearly over our heads and a bit later I found a male Merlin sat on a small bush.

From the bridge over the Guadiamar River I tried a Crested one but there wasn't any. Nevertheless we found one Common Coot with both cheeks white, a bizarre pigmentation. We had Little Grebe, Black-necked Grebe and Great Crested Grebe; Common Pochard and Red-crested Pochard Glossy Ibis and Spoonbill. Swallows are already building nests under the bridge. From the Jose A.Valverde Visitor Centre we had very good views of Purple Gallinule, Cetti's Warbler and several Penduline Tits feeding form the bulrush seeds.

After a coffee break there we headed to Lucio del Lobo where I tried again the Crested Coot and succeeded. A good male (from the size of his knobs) was feeding together with a group of Common Coots near the edge of the water. We saw many more Cranes, many Black-winged Stilt and a few Avocet. I tried Stone Curlew and Short-eared Owl near Huerta Tejada but they seem to have left their winter spot. While driving north along Entremuros we found one more Crested Coot, this time with a white collar around its neck with the figures 1TN on, several Night Herons rusting in a tamarisk and 2 Barn Owls doing the same.

They had never been to Dehesa de Abajo so I thought it would be a good spot to finish. At the reservoir there we found two female Tufted Duck (uncommon in our area) and several White-headed Ducks, 2 female and 5 males diving in the middle of the lake near a flock of Common Pochard. A good way to put an end to a great day. We were back in El Rocío by 2 pm.

 

[wolfbirder]

Great update. Is it possible to drive a small hire car as far as Corridor Verde and Dehesa De Abajo? Late May I am spending a day and can't wait!

 

[ColinD]

Thanks for the update. I'll be there in five days :t: Hoping to see Great spotted Cuckoo this year.

Do you know if the Crested Coots are back on the pool at the visitor centre at Marismas del Odiel this year?

 

[Jon Turner]

Just for info: I saw a lone Black Kite over Jimena de la Frontera heading north. There's also a pair of Black-shouldered Kites near the village.

Jon

 

[Jose A. Sanchez]

Hi there

For Wolfbirder I will tell you that there is an asfalt road going to Dehesa de Abajo, that is not a problem but the track along the Corridor Verde is in very bad conditions, specially south of Casa Bombas.

For Colin I will say that now is a very good time for the Great Spotted Cuckoo despite of not having seen one yesterday and today, there seem to be less than previous years around this time. I haven't been at Odiel Marshes this year yet so I can't tell you about the Crested Coots there but you can try near there at Laguna de El Portil or Laguna Primera de Palos better, on the road to Mazagon, I saw them every time I tried there

For Jon I'll say that I haven't seen any Black Kites in Doñana yet this year, it won't take much longer. Black-shouldered Kite seems to be doing very well all around western andalucia, that's good. I have seen several pairs today in the northern marshes.

 

[firstreesjohn]

Great Spotted Cuckoo- and a warning ! !

Last year, I found the Cuckoos every time I went to El Acebuche.

Leaving the car park, turn right on to the path past the hides, back towards the main road- up to 3 were often there, giving their presence away by cackling loudly. They were not particularly fond of walking humans and, once you were spotted (sorry!), would fly away noisily.

As I posted last year:

*BEWARE OF JEREZ AIRPORT AND BAG THIEVES*​

The very clever man was in the arrivals area, on his mobile, as if waiting for someone. While I was distracted by all the paperwork at the car hire counter, he made off with my flight bag- containing bins, 'scope, camera, tele-lens, iPod, etc, etc. A very good haul.

 

[ColinD]

Hi there
......
For Colin I will say that now is a very good time for the Great Spotted Cuckoo despite of not having seen one yesterday and today, there seem to be less than previous years around this time. I haven't been at Odiel Marshes this year yet so I can't tell you about the Crested Coots there but you can try near there at Laguna de El Portil or Laguna Primera de Palos better, on the road to Mazagon, I saw them every time I tried there

.....

Thanks again for your help. This year we are actually staying at el Portil, so it's very interestin to learn that they are on the Laguna.

 

[wolfbirder]

I am in Huelva on a family holiday in late may for a week, want to see the following species if at all possible in a single day - Black Winged Kite, Short-Toed Eagle, Imperial Eagle, Rufous Bush Robin, Orphean Warbler, and perhaps Little Bustard, Sandgrouse, Savi's Warbler and great spotted cuckoo. Not asking a lot I know!

What chance would i you have of getting me to see them Jose if i booked a day tour with you? I know there are no guarantees and many of them are difficult birds to see. Black Winged kite is a bird i am desperate to see.

I can see Lesser kestrel and spotlss starling myself at niebla castle, and Azure winged magpie shouldnt be a problem. Tips of Red-Necked nightjar would be useful too.

 

[John Cantelo]

Why does nobody venture over to the Cadiz side of the Guadalquivir - it's great birding and I could put folks onto many of the species listed here!

I don't know the area concerned (visited there 3 times) so can't help directly, but the Lynx guide to Donana and John Butler's book should point you in the right direction for most things. As I understand it B-w Kite isn't too hard in the northern marshes, but I'm sure Jose canb give you chapter & verse. Short-toed Eagle shouldn't be a problem in May either; I'd be surprised if you didn't see one en route let alone when birding. In my limited experience of the area Spanish Imperial Eagle can be elusive although diligent searching with a 'scope can produce the goods (then again one might just fly over your car!). I only have specific Rufous Bush Robin sites form SE of Seville & Cadiz. Orphean Warbler is again something I could easily show you east of the river. The same is true of Savi's Warbler, but I would strongly urge you to listen for them as early as possible; last May I saw/heard 3-4 before 8:00, but by 13:00 all were silent. Both Little Bustard & Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, though, continue to elude me. I recall that Great-spotted Cuckoo is almost exclusively a migrant on the Coto and, as it arrives early in the year, should be long goneby lat May.

I don't know exactly where you're staying, but I'd expect both Spotless starling and Lesser Kestrel in any of the small towns/villages along that coastal strip. As for Red-necked Nightjar, don't forget that this species has none of the mythical scarcity which we Brits associate with Common Nightjar in the UK. Any reasonably sized sandy pine woods with clearings should hold them - just remember to stay as late as you can and listen for that distinctive hollow "kyo-tock-tyo-tock" song. Great birds!

 

[wolfbirder]

John, thank you for your invaluable advice. I have just received the Lynx book and it gives a number of itineries. I just worry about a hire cars ability to get around the tracks such as Corredor Verde. The size of the place is a concern and tho i will be there early as possible i just do not know how much i can cover. Unless I have a guide to myself i fear that it would be impossible to help me see most on my list.

 

[ColinD]

John, thank you for your invaluable advice. I have just received the Lynx book and it gives a number of itineries. I just worry about a hire cars ability to get around the tracks such as Corredor Verde. The size of the place is a concern and tho i will be there early as possible i just do not know how much i can cover. Unless I have a guide to myself i fear that it would be impossible to help me see most on my list.

A guide is invaluable if that's the kind of holiday you want, but it is a myth to think that you need a guide to get around Donana. It is also a myth to assume that you can't get round with a hire car. Read my report here and you will see what we accomplished in a Citroen C2 in December 2006, immediately after a lengthy period of very heavy rain, when many tracks were described as "impassible". I'm not trying to put anybody off guides, because they can be great, but it just amazes me how many people think that they can't get round Donana without one.

Trying to find your way around is part of the fun as is finding stuff for yourself.

Edit: have to dash now, because I fly out tomorrow and will be back at el Rocio in a couple of days time B

 

[Jon Turner]

I went through the Corredor Verde with John Butler in July 07, a short while before he died. The roads were, by then, bone dry, so although rough, easily driveable. The gypsy festival will have happened by the time of your visit (when a million people descend on El Rocio) so I would think you could drive the area quite ok. He was full of enthusiasm for this particular area and showed me several places where Black-shouldered Kites breed. We also saw 2 juvenile SIE on the nest.

Jon

 

[wolfbirder]

Thank you Colin/ Jon, as you say I do like to use local guides in some ways, but the drawback is you cannot have them to your 'selfish-self' and as you say part of the fun is discovering yourself. I believe I could possibly undertake about 4 itineries (maybe more) during a day (as per Lynx book), and also I can choose the day when I am there so I go when the weather is ok and when I have slept well.

Dont think I will find Orphean Warbler, Rufous Bush Robin , Little Bustard, but I will be disappointed if I dont connect wwith 70% of the rest.

A shame i will not really have time to take in the general beauty and spectacle of the place, as these are my target birds.

 

[John Cantelo]

Edit: have to dash now, because I fly out tomorrow and will be back at el Rocio in a couple of days time B

Have a great trip! I'm just back from a week on the Cadiz side of the Guadalquivir. We weren't going for a big list but still had 156 species (despite missing on some 'silly' things - as you do). The Sanlucar area was as wet as I've ever seen it with plenty of very wet fields. Summer visitors included Sedge Warbler, Yellow Wagtail, Sand Martins, Lesser Kestrels aplenty, Booted & Short-toed Eagles, Egyptian Vultures (OK some of the foregoing winter in small numbers, but some of these birds were flying in-off). Other highlights included Crested Coot, Marbled Duck, Alpine Accentor and Little Swift (11 of them!). I'll write it all up and post anon,

 

[Andrew]

That's the thing about that part of Europe John, even without trying you rack up some numbers. The quality of birding, climate, scenery and so on disuades one from menial stuff like chasing numbers. I expect it to be more so when I visit Donana for the first time soon.

Can not wait.

 

[Stephen Fletcher]

A guide is invaluable if that's the kind of holiday you want, but it is a myth to think that you need a guide to get around Donana. It is also a myth to assume that you can't get round with a hire car. Read my report here and you will see what we accomplished in a Citroen C2 in December 2006, immediately after a lengthy period of very heavy rain, when many tracks were described as "impassible". I'm not trying to put anybody off guides, because they can be great, but it just amazes me how many people think that they can't get round Donana without one.

Trying to find your way around is part of the fun as is finding stuff for yourself.

Edit: have to dash now, because I fly out tomorrow and will be back at el Rocio in a couple of days time B

There is no substitute for local knowledge anywhere, im sure you will agree. I have pulled many a car from bad roads in Donana in my landrover, they had been there for hours, and it was only by luckily spotting them in my scope that i managed to see them and go and find out why they were on that particular stretch, that a local would never venture onto. A local can put you onto birds much quicker than you would ever find yourself, so not wasting precious birding time. The road to Antonio Valverde is a prime example, there are many ways to arrive there, but only one is any good for a normal car, and certain fields hold certain birds, that 99% of people would miss if they didnt stop there, and which locals know about. I am there every couple of weeks and know the place very well. Could a stranger find a white headed duck quickly on a lake containing 10,000 assorted species ? He could if he knew where to look, like a local would.

 

[John Cantelo]

That's the thing about that part of Europe John, even without trying you rack up some numbers. The quality of birding, climate, scenery and so on disuades one from menial stuff like chasing numbers. I expect it to be more so when I visit Donana for the first time soon.

Can not wait.

Absolutely, Andrew! Apart from the things you mention there's also plants, butterflies, history, etc! Good luck in Donana!

 

[Jose A. Sanchez]

I am in Huelva on a family holiday in late may for a week, want to see the following species if at all possible in a single day - Black Winged Kite, Short-Toed Eagle, Imperial Eagle, Rufous Bush Robin, Orphean Warbler, and perhaps Little Bustard, Sandgrouse, Savi's Warbler and great spotted cuckoo. Not asking a lot I know!

What chance would i you have of getting me to see them Jose if i booked a day tour with you? I know there are no guarantees and many of them are difficult birds to see. Black Winged kite is a bird i am desperate to see.

I can see Lesser kestrel and spotlss starling myself at niebla castle, and Azure winged magpie shouldnt be a problem. Tips of Red-Necked nightjar would be useful too.

Little Bustard would be difficult since they mainly winter in Doñana; late May is a bit late for the Cuckoo so it might be difficult; for some reason I only see Orphean Warbler in Doñana on passage so difficult as well. I can get you the others

 

[Jose A. Sanchez]

There is no substitute for local knowledge anywhere, im sure you will agree. I have pulled many a car from bad roads in Donana in my landrover, they had been there for hours, and it was only by luckily spotting them in my scope that i managed to see them and go and find out why they were on that particular stretch, that a local would never venture onto. A local can put you onto birds much quicker than you would ever find yourself, so not wasting precious birding time. The road to Antonio Valverde is a prime example, there are many ways to arrive there, but only one is any good for a normal car, and certain fields hold certain birds, that 99% of people would miss if they didnt stop there, and which locals know about. I am there every couple of weeks and know the place very well. Could a stranger find a white headed duck quickly on a lake containing 10,000 assorted species ? He could if he knew where to look, like a local would.

It is obvious that I think that a local guide is useful, specially in an area the size of Doñana but I understand very well people who prefer to explore on their own, I do it myself some times when I travel abroad.

Regarding the track net in Doñana I would say that in a normal hire car you would be able to move around a small percentage of the whole possible area. The conditions of the tracks can vary from one week to the next depending on weather and other factors. The road along the Corridor Verde is normally from bad to horrible conditions, specially in the rainy season and is not normally the best route to the Jose A. Valverde. I see often people trying to get to the centre along that route but it is just a matter of luck that you get there, some get it some don't; you never know how the conditions of the road are going to be, driving and orientation skills are needed. A hire car is indeed the only way to try it, I would never tried in my own car if it is not a 4WD.

Good luck and good birding for everyone

In other order of things, I have spent the weekend at Sierra del Aljibe, east of Alcala de los Gazules, and seen the first Short-toed Eagles migrating north and heard some Iberian Chiffchaffs back from Africa. While driving back to Seville we saw an Osprey at Bornos Reservoir, a flock of about 50 Pin-tailed Sandgrouse near Espera and a group of around 100 Black Kites moving north near Las Cabezas de San Juan.

 

[Jose A. Sanchez]

FEBRUARY 24th

Some are going, others coming

A Spanish couple from the Basque Country with their teenager son went out to the Park with me today, we spent the whole day moving across the northern forests and marshes in the morning and, after a break for lunch at Isla Mayor, we explore the rice fields for a few hours and visited Dehesa de Abajo. Things are changing very quickly in Doñana these days, it is still possible to see winter species like Common Crane and Snipe next to just arrived spring birds like Yellow Wagtail and Sand Martin.

Partridges go all in couples in the forest edges and all the species are displaying, defending territories or searching for a suitable spot to nest. Some White Storks in Dehesa de Abajo can be seen sat on the nests already and some cots along the Caño Guadiamar in the Hinojos Marshes. Swallows are building their nests under the bridge there, you can see them picking small amounts of mud from the wet edges of the marshes. We found a banded Crested Coot just next to the bridge. From it we saw a good number of Red-crested Pochard, many Marsh Harriers, Little, Great-crested and Black-necked Grebes in full breeding plumage and displaying; a huge number of Purple Gallinules, Sand Martins passing and many Glossy Ibis concentrating near the Jose A. Valverde breeding colony . I saw the first Woodchat Shrike of the season near Palacio del Rey and the first 4 Black Kites of the year. We didn't see any Great-spotted Cuckoo today though, shame but there seem to be less than normally this year.

Early in the morning we saw two formations of Greylag Geese leaving the marshes towards the north, we didn't see any more on the ground later but there are still some Cranes, specially around Lucio del Lobo, where Short-toed Larks are easy along the road. Iberian Hair is very active and we saw them several times in the dry marshes. There is also a lot of waders in the shallow waters of the Hinojos Marshes, including Kentish Plover and Little Stint, hopefully we will get some rain in the coming weeks to keep up the level and guarantee a good breeding season. Several Bitterns have been seen near Casa Bombas lately but we didn't get them today.

Later we counted up to 5 Black Storks in the rice fields after exploring maybe one tenth of the whole rice area and went to see the pair of Spanish Imperial Eagles breeding near Isla Mayor, one was sat on a branch near the nest while the other was sat on it incubating the eggs, a beautiful sight. We did not see any Short-toed Eagles but they must be just about to arrive. I saw 2 passing over Sierra del Aljibe in Malaga last weekend. Before sunset we went to Dehesa de Abajo and enjoyed a quite walk around the Stork colony. We have great sigths of a male Crested Coot and a large flock of Tree Sparrows near the farm down by the lake. The fourth Black Kite of the day flew passed over our heads.

Sunny weather and temperatures over 20º C at midday. A great time to enjoy Doñana