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Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

Zeiss SFL 8x40, A Field Review (16 Viewers)

I tend to agree Lee however was wondering if you thought the SF was worth the extra money. I know that’s subjective but I value your opinions and you have had extensive time with both. Mute point for me at this point since I’ve ordered a pair of SFLs. Also the SF price is out of my range although I’ve seen some attractive prices on used ones. As always its a pleasure to read your reviews and am glad you’re getting out this summer!
Best way I have to answer this: I have an SF 8x32 & an SF10x32 and no plans to acquire an SFL.

Lee
 
Here's a test. The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
I see a very slight green tint on the binocular on the left and a marked green tint on the binocular on the right.
 
Both grouse images have a cast, one is green (pretty obvious), the other is blue.

I agree. I had never noticed this before.
Several decades ago a washing powder in the UK (I think it was Daz) was advertised as containing a 'blue whitener' and I once read that around that time (monochrome tv) folks on 'serious' tv programmes were encouraged to wear pale blue shirts because these looked 'whiter' on the tv broadcast.

Lee
 
Here's a blind test (sorry, not double blind). The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
No tint on the left-hand bino and a slight green tint on the one on the right.

Lee
 
Best way I have to answer this: I have an SF 8x32 & an SF10x32 and no plans to acquire an SFL.

Lee
It all depends on how you use your binoculars. If you use your binoculars in open coastal areas in Scotland with lots of sun like you do, a 32 mm is fine, but if you use your binoculars in heavy woodland or under canopy like in the Monteverde Rainforest of Costa Rica a 40 mm or 42 is advantageous. Personally, I notice a considerable difference in ease of eye placement and comfort when I use a 42 mm versus a 32 mm on most binoculars, but it can depend on how the binocular ER and eye cup length fit your eye sockets. That SF 8x32 probably fits you perfectly, so it seems very comfortable for you. A 5 mm EP versus a 4 mm gives you a little more tolerance and if the binocular doesn't quite fit you perfectly it will still feel comfortable, and you will have fewer blackouts. It is possible that an 8x32 can fit you better than an 8x42 though, but the odds are in favor of the 8x42 because of the bigger EP.
 
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Here's a blind test (sorry, not double blind). The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
The right circle has a greenish hue to my eyes. The left circle is more subtly different from the bg, sometimes appearing brighter than it. At times I can see a slight green in it, but very quiet.
 
Here's a blind test (sorry, not double blind). The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
Henry, is the camera a variable?
 
Here's a blind test (sorry, not double blind). The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
The one on the left looks neutral to me, whereas right one has a very mild and slight yellow/green tint
 
Here's a blind test (sorry, not double blind). The image below shows a "white" screen with two binoculars in front of it. The background color is the screen as the camera records it directly. The two circles are what the camera records after light from the screen has passed through the binoculars. What do you see?
Left = neutral, right = slight green/yellow tint
 
I see a very slight green tint on the binocular on the left and a marked green tint on the binocular on the right.
That is what I see also. Looking forward to the reveal, since I've said Zeisses don't look green to me -- but that's based only on brief trials in which I wasn't immediately struck by any color bias, as I doubt I would be with the one on the left here.

I am struggling to understand how high contrast could result in clear, clean, life-like colours..................
So am I, but you've described magic with plain black, grey, and white. And if one plays around with contrast in photo editing, colors do get more vivid. And at least two members have noted heightened contrast as something they thought overdone in SFL, without mentioning color at all. Hence my interest in contrast.

Can you rephrase the question? What are you looking for?
I'd like to see a direct comparison of SFL with EDG (or another model noted for high contrast) in terms of visual presentation as discussed here, including colors and contrast. That would help clarify what SFL is doing, and how much, and how novel it is(n't). Some model with more typical contrast like EL could be used as a control. (I don't have these available myself.)
 
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Here's another example of two binoculars photographed in the same way as the first test, but with much more spectacular color biases. I just made this photo. The first one was still in the computer from an earlier test a few months ago.

Tom,

The white balance of the camera is not very critical for this test. Since the background color and the light throughputs of the binoculars all come from the same photo they should all match if the binoculars are color neutral.

Henry
 

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BTW did you try the SF 10x32s? They were absolutely delightful when I tried them.
Yes, the 10x32 SFs were a close second for me to the NLs, though I got more blackouts with the Zeiss. I do get glare in the lower portion of the view with the NL eyecups all the way up, but as reported extensively elsewhere I can eliminate this by bringing the eyecup down one or two positions.
 
Henry,
To me:
In both pics background not white but greyish
(at various settings of my screen).
Pic.1
Left circle same or nearly same as bg.
Right circle slightly more green or yellow than bg.
Pic.2
Left circle much more green than bg (compared with pic.1).
Right circle slightly more white than bg.
 
The one thing that is consistent here is the inconsistency. And fascinating that it drives home the point that everybody sees things a little bit differently.
That's not my reading. So far everyone has chosen a green or green/yellow bias for the right binocular and either no bias or a very mild one for the left binocular in the first photo. That seems quite consistent to me, especially considering that we are all using different computer monitors. The only surprise to me so far is "adhoc's" impression of a "whiter" output from the right binocular in the second photo.

BTW, the background in the photos looks gray instead of white because I intentionally underexposed to prevent the colors from washing out.
 
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