Add-on telephoto lenses

[Martin Jones]

Hi Andy, its fine getting the correct equipment but how do you stop the b--gg--s from flying away in the time it takes to set up the equipment??,am I to assume I have to dress like KEVIN in camouflage or go in my own hide? see ya soon

REGARDS MARTIN J

[Martin Jones]

Andy,has anyone manufactured a telephoto lens other than Nikon for the coolpix 4500, which will give x`s magnification, is eagle eye`s one any good?

Martin J

[IanF]

I used the Eagle Eye Optic Zoom with the Oly C2000Z for over a year and it can give some excellent results. Vignetting is obvious but the quality of the shots is pretty good provided you have some decent daylight, as you do lose a coulpe of f-stops.

[Martin Jones]

Thanks IAN F,
now the sites back I can thank you for your sentiments,spoke to andy and he agreed the e/eye lens is good, might investigate the Nikon lens for the 4500 which I have, any comments people?
Just read about the OLY 710 UZ which has a 10x`s ZOOM any thoughts guys?,

MARTIN J

[IanF]

Hi Martin,

I have the C2100UZ which is 2.1 mp and has a 10x zoom lens combined with an image stabiliser which gives excellent results for birding photography, especially when combined with the Tcon14 and B300 tele lenses also made by Olympus.
Can't say I've heard of the 710 UZ, but there are the 720 and 730 on the go. The 730 looks a well specified camera with 3.2 mp and a 10x zoom lens, though I have seen it reported that the max zoom length is not as high as the C2100, ie. it has a better wide-angle range. Also no Image Stabiliser which I find a boon for hand holding in our dull climate.
The C2100 UZ is discontinued, but a few can still be picked up new through dealers or the likes of Ebay or even as refurbished models from Olympus - some digital camera magazines carry adds for them. It was very similarly specified to the Canon IS Pro 90 and shared the same lens/IS system, but also has been discontinued.
As regards the EagleEye Optic Zoom, I should have pointed out that there probably wouldn't be the vignetting problem for you that I have with the Olympus C2000Z as the lens diameter on the Nikon is a lot narrower - though someone with a Nikon themselves would be a better person to confirm that.
You may also find this lens of interest though shown for the C2100UZ, which I found posted elsewhere, but they seem very hard to get hold of
Sigma VT5 super 5x zoom - giving 1900 mm (http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1008&message=330118 5 )

[Andy Bright]

Hi Martin,
You have to be a little bit careful when looking on the web for add-on telephotos lenses (actually teleconverters).
A number of the devices are actually made for videocameras where the optical quality isn't a big factor (t.v's are very low res displays). Though for small web images it's not going to be that important, you can get a nice looking web pic from a seemingly poor full sized pic.
Try to avoid the converted monoculars such as the Kenko 8x32 or the Crystalvue 8x32 if you are looking to retain any quality for prints (I've had both of them!)

If you're interested in actual prints at a decent size, you're better off buying the add-on lenses made for the camera.... i.e. the fabled Olympus b300 or the Nikon tc3-ed.

The b300 is a very hard to find (out of production?) 1.7x teleconverter.... 1.7x may not sound much but when added to a digital camera with a built-in 380mm lens (usually called 10x) it's a big help for bird photography. The b300 will fit on several cameras and also fits on the front of an Eagle-eye 5x teleconverter.
Olympus make a few other add-on teleconverters of lesser quality but they are still far better than many 'video' add-ons.

The Nikon tc3-ed is a very good choice for the Nikon user, giving 3x magnification with exceptional quality and almost no light loss. Even with the Nikon tc3-ed with your camera at maximum zoom (about 450mm), you may not get the subject large enough for your needs.

The Eagle Eye 5x teleconverter is a high quality add-on made by Eagle Eye Opticzooms of Kent. Although the optical quality is less than the last two converters... it's way ahead of anything else that will give you 5x. The Eagle Eye 5x needs to be manual focused onto the subject.
I found very little (if any) light loss with this teleconveter, as Ian says.... there can be vignetting with some cameras, though it usually clears towards maximum zoom on these camera (and that's where you'll be for most of the time)

Andy

[Martin Jones]

Thanks IAN F and ANDY B, I misquoted the model number, it is the latest model C730UZ as you said , as for the trial you suggested Andy I tried the digital zoom to compare what the Nikon tele will do, not bad but I feel I would like to see some results before buying anything,I do however fancy some oly with a powerfull zoom. Andy did you get the pix I e/mailed you??
thanks again fellas

MARTIN J

[Andy Bright]

Hi Martin, got the pics and they look excellent.... though a bit small on my monitor (how about 640x480 or 800x600 size?), first I complain that they're too big (in terms of file size), now I'm complaining that they're too small in physical size... no pleasing some people 3:-)

Take a wander down to the used equipment forum and see if Mike (Medlock) has still got his Olympus 2100UZ for sale. It's probably the number one all in one digicam for birding....10x zoom with image stabilisation. A lot of people have complained that Olympus dropped the I.S. feature on the newer 720uz and 730uz, but I expect Canon wanted too much money from Olympus for using their system or else they didn't want the 10X Olympus camera competing with their own stabilised 10x camera.

Regards,
Andy

[Martin Jones]

Andy, I deliberately resized the pix didn`t want your computer to blow a fuse they do look good straight from the camera,a little out of focus maybe but the camera monitor is small as you know, and I use reading glasses maybe I should view from the car??
have seen the for sale oly I am tempted,but I`ve got holes in my pockets.

Anyone know about Knotting green in Beds, just read about poss raptors present??

MARTIN J

[Andy Bright]

Martin: Not worried how big they are in pixels (although 800x600 is ideal), just make sure that they're less than 400kb each for me.... you can do this by saving them (with a different name or to a different folder to the original), when saving you should be given jpeg compression options.... use a mid setting 5/10 or 50% and that will considerably reduce their file size.
Still, they look very fine pics to me and can't see much wrong with focus.
Regards,
Andy

[KCFoggin]

Ian! Can you please tell me about the Tcon14. I never considered adding another lens to the B300. Is it still made or has that lens been discontinued as well? Also, is it made by Olympus? (I try to use Olympus lens with Olympus cameras)

I didn't think image stabilizer would be that important with the 700 only weighing 11oz. but I suppose when you start adding on the lenses it would be an asset.

[IanF]

Hi KC,

As regards the Image Stabiliser, I find that I tend to have it turned on for most of the time, even without using additonal lenses. In my neck of the woods, the weather is more often cloudy and dull requiring the use of slow shutter speeds, often down to 1/40 f3.5, so the IS is a definite boon. Certainly the more converters you use the wobblier the photos will be though I do find on bright days you can get away with handholding.
The Tcon 14 is a 1.45x teleconversion lens manufactured by Olympus and is still currently available. Strictly speaking it is maunfactured for use with the C2000Z/2030/2040 range so the rear filter thread is 46 mm but a 49-46 step down ring is all that is required to connect it to the camera. It however doesn't have a front filter thread. To overcome this problem some inspired person (not me I'm afraid) came up with the idea of gluing a step down ring to the front of the lens - a 58mm to 55 mm step down ring seats snuggly in the front of the Tcon and should be glued in place with an epoxy resin (as opposed to superglue). The B300 fits up front.
Quite a few Uzi users have used this technique to great effect. There is next to no light loss entering the camera, though there is a slight softening to image quality, but it is better than no image at all. I have even bought a second Tcon and can use 2xTcon's + B300 to give even more reach for those otherwise impossible shots.
I picked up my second Tcon on Ebay for a ridiculously low price.

[KCFoggin]

Ian thank you! I have copied and pasted this post so I can refer to it. Think I am going to have to look around for this lens and see how successful I am in getting it attached. Thanks again.

[Martin Jones]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to my initial request for info,I have as IAN F suggested look at ebay at the olympus 2100uz, but my mind is a little confused with the numbers used as i saw 2x 2100s, but one did not have the stab facility,what was the advantage for this camera? the 10 x zoom? am I to assume 10xs only works with stab as the new 730 suffers from camera shake unless a tripod is used.NIGEL B you were selling the 2100 why ? is there a newer alternative that is good for close ups, without huge lenses.Just trying to do a bit of research your help will be greatly recieved!!!

MARTIN J

[Martin Jones]

Sorry NIGEL B thought it was you selling the 2100 its MEDLOCK,still like an answer though,

MARTIN J

[IanF]

Hi Martin,

The Olympus C2100UZ does have an image stabiliser. I only found one on eBay UK though I didn't search too deeply. Personally I like the IS as I use add-on lenses which greatly increase the focal length of the camera. Extra zoom length equates with greater risk of camera shake as in any type of digital photography.
The C730 is an updated version of the C2100 with more megapixels and a 10x optical zoom but no IS. I haven't used this model so I can't vouch for the lens quality. I did read that whereas the C2100 10x equates with 380mm in 35mm terms, the C730 is not as long. The C2100 has a very good lens.
Camera shake only comes into play in dull lighting conditions and in using add on lenses. For standard use of the C730 alone it shouldn't be a problem.
I think that Medlock was upgrading to a Canon D60 which is a far better camera, a true digital SLR, but is a whole different price range.

[peter hayes]

Martin

Once you have fiddled around with all the technical stuff you will find that your first posting was accurate: you DO have to dress up like Kevin to get near the blighters. Think back to Nigel Blake's thread - he had a bird perched on his camera! But then, he is the invisible man.......

[Andy Bright]

Martin: I think Mike (Medlock) has already sold the camera... I knew it wouldn't hang around long. Try ebay or Loot?
Regards,
Andy

[Martin Jones]

Peter,I have come to the conclusion that I must heed all the expert advice and go under cover, it`s a good excuse to have tea and tales, whilst trying to fool the birds,a comfortable chair,and while away the day and of course take bird pix!!!

MARTIN J

[Martin Jones]

Thanks to all that have made comments on the camera suitability issue,although having the coolpix 4500 for digiscoping,taking rapid shots does really require being in a different mode ie, away from the scope, thus relying on the basic camera lens, hence my concern as to the closeness of the pix. Suppose I shall have to save for a 2100 uzi which seems ideal!! cheers Andy, IanF and co
see ya at slimebridge.

MARTIN J

[IanF]

Martin,

Just a thought as I have recently acquired a Nikon 4500 which I have coupled with the EagleEye. I've been pretty impressed with the results so far especially when the B300 is attached to the front as it magically seems to increase the light entering the camera giving quite fast shutter speeds.
This was taken at just under 30 yards away hand held.

You may be able to pick one up cheap secondhand or on Ebay.

[tonyh]

i know i have entered this thread a bit late but, i think i can lay my hands on a b300 converter if anyone is interested send me a pm

[Andy Bright]

You're going to be a very popular man, Tony..... although I'm sure you already are :t:
Andy

[bcurrie]

Ian, did you have just the B-300 on, or do you mean you had the B-300 on the with the Eagle Eye? If it was with the Eagle Eye, then I am very impressed with that quality.

[IanF]

Hi Brian,

It was the EagleEye+B300 handheld too !

It's made a big difference using the EE with the Nikon 4500 with it having a small diameter objective lens. I certainly find the results of better quality having the B300 attached rather than the EE on it's own.
The 4500 also allows for loads of image sharpening due to it's 4 MP sensor. Out of the camera the results are very soft indeed.

[Martin Jones]

TONY H,I am interested in the b300 as suggested by IAN F,could you e/mail me ay mlj28@tesco .net.

MARTIN J

[Martin Jones]

IAN F, that pix looks wicked, looks like I have found the solution, as long as I can get the b300 you suggested, thanks again,

MARTIN J

[bcurrie]

So Ian, what, you were probably in the next county when you took that photo, right? Very impressive. So does the EE have threads on it, or do you have to glue a ring to it? I don't remember, did you couple the B-300 and EE with your 2100? That would have given you and 85ishX zoom, more powerful than a scope.

[Nikon_Boy]

Originally posted by IanF
Hi Brian,

It was the EagleEye+B300 handheld too !

I Gues I have to lay off the caffeine to avoid camera shake when hand-held! B (:

Originally posted by IanF

It's made a big difference using the EE with the Nikon 4500 with it having a small diameter objective lens. I certainly find the results of better quality having the B300 attached rather than the EE on it's own.
The 4500 also allows for loads of image sharpening due to it's 4 MP sensor. Out of the camera the results are very soft indeed.


So I guess you are saying that teh B-300 actually increases light through the EE lens than with the EE by itself.....?



BTW IanF....that picture is very very nice! :t:

[IanF]

Hi Brian,

The Eagle Eye has 37mm threads front and rear, is a 5" long metal cylinder the front half of which can br rotated for focusing as in an SLR and weighs 12oz. I did try coupling the C2100UZ to it but the results were very very soft and vignetting extreme to say the least. The 10x optical zoom is just too much. A touch of digital zoom helped reduce it though. I'll see if I can find the step ring and post a shot using it in the next coulpe of days if we get a bright day.

Nikon_Boy,

That appears to be the result, the B300 actually seems to gather more light into the Eagle Eye enabling far higher exposure speeds. The EE alone loses 2-3 f-stops, but with the B300 also attached it is just maybe 1 f-stop lost.

[KCFoggin]

It was the EagleEye+B300 handheld too !


Must admit Ian, I am now looking at the 4500 and from your photo, I very much like what I see.

[JWM]

I have just been experimenting with the Zeiss 10X15 monocular mounted to my Nikon 990 and was fairly pleased with it, although it will take some time to get the focusing spot on. I am also looking at the Nikon 5X15 monocular. Does anyone, apart from John Judge who I know uses the setups and whom I have contacted, have any comments on them.
If anyone uses these setups what focusing do you use on the camera? I was using manual set at infinity on the camera with auto focus but what about the lens? I turned it to what I thought was good focus on something about 100 yards away. It was still not spot on focus. As I say, if anyone has used either of the setups please let me know how you are getting on. It will mainly be used for aerial shots

[Tannin]

Originally posted by Martin Jones
It's fine getting the correct equipment but how do you stop the b--gg--s from flying away in the time it takes to set up the equipment??

Nails. Several very small nails can be used to attach the bird's feet to a convenient perch. In the case of larger birds, small nails may not be suficient and a few self-tapping screws will come in handy.

For best results, apply a drop or two of ordinary nail varnish (which can be bought at any beauty shop) before taking your shot, as otherwise the shiny metal nail-heads can catch the light and spoil your picture. Be sure to match the colour of the nail varnish to the colour of the bird's feet: no professional photographer would use yellow nail varnish on a bird with black feet, for example.

For water birds such as ducks, grebes and swans, nails tend to be ineffective as there is seldom a sufficiently firm object into which they can be hammered. This is why the well-equipped nature photographer also carries a length of strong string. Simply take a loop around the bird's feet, measure off an appropriate length of string, and tie the other end to a brick or medium-sized rock. Toss the brick into the water at the desired disance from the camera and take your shot.

Take care to use the correct length of string for the depth of water: too long a string and the bird will often flap up into the air, exposing the string to the camera, which looks ugly. Too short a string results in the bird posing under water, which tends to look rather unnatural.

Be sure not to use the nailing-to-the-perch method with large, intelligent birds like Emus, as it can be rather dangerous. You need very large nails (which are quite expensive) and, as a number of talented young nature photographers have discovered over the years, there is some doubt as to exactly where the hammer winds up getting shoved and by who.