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Nikon P5100 (1 Viewer)

Hi Folks,

Just to add, I'm very impressed with this camera, it seems to do the job very well. I've been testing it quite alot recently against the Fuji F30 and my original Coolpix 4500 (which I still rate highly). For recent results and my setup, have a look at my site http://www.smandrews.com the Spoon-billed Sandpipers are all P5100, it seemed to take on the challenge remarkably well - harsh light, heathaze and high temperatures

Regards

Mark

Pretty good shots from the P5100, mind you I think your high end scope helped too! Think I'll wait until payday at the end of the month and then order me one of these P5100s as they look very good for digiscoping.
 
I think I have already said this but the results I am getting with this camera are exceeding all expectations
 

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I think I have already said this but the results I am getting with this camera are exceeding all expectations

Nice pic, it looks even better if you bump up the contrast a little then add some sharpening in post pro! If you like I can attach the processed version?

What scope did you use?
 
Hi all, switched back to the 30X eyepiece from the 50X and yesterday i got a couple of shots of a Red Crossbill i'd like to share.
this is about as good as my digiscoping efforts get with a P5100 + ED82.
 

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Hello.

Just got my p5100 for a month now. I have tested it on my scope, Kamakura SP-83.
I have to say that I am very disappointed with the camera. Doea any have the same problem that I have?

It is attached to the scope with an adapter from Focus Trading ( http://www.focustrading.se/Products/Product2.aspx?ItemId=3892) and it is made for my scope. I have used it on another camera before the nikon with ok result.

The problem with the Nikon is that the lens seems to be off center in the UR-E20 adapter and I then get an obscured view. Looks like the aperture obscure som part of the image when using no camera zoom. When I focus the camera I have a clear view but releasing the focus it becames obscured again. If I use an aperture higher than 3.0 I will get an obscured view after focusing too.
When I hold the camera without the focus trading adapter to the scope and hold it so I get an clear view I see that it is off center in the ocular.

The really bad thing is that I might not be able to claim any warranty for that fault. Using it as a normal camera it is ok.

Is there any other with the same fault here?
 
Brian,

By all means post your version. The scope used was Swarovski ATS80 HD

This time I just used unsharp mask in Gimp. First to boost the contrast I used radius of 100 pixels, and sharpening amount 0.4 (a radius of 50- 100 with a moderate amount of sharpening helps boost contrast in hazy landscapes too!). Then I sharpened using unsharp mask again using a radius of 1 pixels, and amount 0.5 Seems to come out not too bad without boosting noise too much. Although perhaps I've done a bit too much sharpening.

Hope this helps.

Brian
 

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Hi Revs

I didn't know you used a 50x for digiscoping.
I bought the 50x DS eyepiece a couple of months ago, to try with the P5100 and my ED82.
Getting some quite good pictures at the moment, but will probably have to revert back to the 30xDS soon, as the weather is warming up for the summer here, so will get more heat haze problems.

I had to make a minor alteration to my home made adaptor, I now get no vignetting with the 50x at all.

See a few pictures taken a couple of days ago with the 50x here

http://lynandmholidays.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/p5100page6.htm

Best wishes

Malc
 
Hi Revs

I didn't know you used a 50x for digiscoping.
I bought the 50x DS eyepiece a couple of months ago, to try with the P5100 and my ED82.
Getting some quite good pictures at the moment, but will probably have to revert back to the 30xDS soon, as the weather is warming up for the summer here, so will get more heat haze problems.

I had to make a minor alteration to my home made adaptor, I now get no vignetting with the 50x at all.

See a few pictures taken a couple of days ago with the 50x here

http://lynandmholidays.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/p5100page6.htm

Best wishes

Malc

hey Malc, i go through phases where i think the 50X is sharper somehow and switch but then eventually go back to the 30X when vignetting (problem with the FSB-6 bracket i think) or closer inspection of picture quality turns me off it.
i've gotten some decent results with the 50X but it's also let me down on occasion.

i'm really happy that the days are getting brighter, this winter was a dark time for digiscoping on the west coast.
here though are a couple of my shots with the 50X, thanks for sharing yours, always great to see what everyone else with same setup is getting quality-wise.
B :)
 

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Great pictures Revs, especially like the first.

I guess the vignetting with the 50x is because the lens ends up at the wrong distance from the eyepiece using the FSB-6, it is also very critical using the 50x to get the camera lens absolutley central to the eyepiece.

I like the 50x for the ability to get the shot, that is just that to far away for the 30x, without using so much zoom on the camera.

Malc
 

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It is attached to the scope with an adapter from Focus Trading ( http://www.focustrading.se/Products/Product2.aspx?ItemId=3892) and it is made for my scope. I have used it on another camera before the nikon with ok result.

The problem with the Nikon is that the lens seems to be off center in the UR-E20 adapter and I then get an obscured view.

This should not be a problem with the UR-E20 adapter. Check that it is perfectly round ( they can get distorted if dropped or knocked ). Can you post a photo to show what you mean? Neil.
 
I'm impressed with the results from the 50x guys. I wish I knew someone that had the gear so that I could play with it.
The rule of thumb for the 80 mm scope was that the resolution maxes out at around 60x optical ( camera plus scope ). So with the P5100 at the end of the Green Macro range (43 mm or .86 optical ) on the 50 x eyepiece you are effective at 43x optical. So either a 70x eyepiece or zoom the camera lens to 60 mm (switch off Macro ) will get you to the theoretical best resolution. Of course heat haze and low light will make this more difficult to achieve over distance. If you still want a bigger image , better to crop in the camera or upsize in software.
Neil.
 
THIS IS A GREAT THREAD I AM VERY IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS PEOPLE ARE GETTING
just wont to know please if i would see a great difference in speed in general
compared to my canon a95.

THANKS
 
THIS IS A GREAT THREAD I AM VERY IMPRESSED WITH THE RESULTS PEOPLE ARE GETTING
just wont to know please if i would see a great difference in speed in general
compared to my canon a95.

The A95 frame rate is much faster ( 2.0 fps v 0.8 fps ), but I suspect the P5100 AF is more accurate , particularly in Macro Mode. Also having the 12 megs is nice for cropping. Neil.
 
Thanks for your response neil did not know it was 0.8 fps but i don't think that would be a massive inparment from the pictures i have seen would have thought from Nikon it would have been at least 3 fps.
the A95 AF is very hit & mis even in good light.
so a more accurate AF system would be great.
if i did buy this camera is the any adapter tubes to fit my 52mm digiscope adapter.
do you know of any other new cameras witch would be suitable

thanks
 
It is attached to the scope with an adapter from Focus Trading ( http://www.focustrading.se/Products/Product2.aspx?ItemId=3892) and it is made for my scope. I have used it on another camera before the nikon with ok result.

The problem with the Nikon is that the lens seems to be off center in the UR-E20 adapter and I then get an obscured view.

***********
This should not be a problem with the UR-E20 adapter. Check that it is perfectly round ( they can get distorted if dropped or knocked ). Can you post a photo to show what you mean? Neil.
***********

Both the camera, UR-E20 and the scope adapter are ok.
I do not have a photo of it now. (Getting dark here now) But I modified a photo in Adobe Elements so it looks the same. (Scope at 20x and no camera zoom)

As you see in the image it is a shading from the aperture. When I halfpress the shutter it will go away and then come back when I release it. I hear that is is the aperture mowing. And at aperture at 3.0 and higher the shade is always there.

When I hold the camera by hand with only the UR-E20 on I can get a perfect view without the shade. But then I see that I must hold it off center on the ocular to get it right. It is also visible when I look at the lens in the UR-E20 that it is off center by approx 2 mm.

I sent an email today to Nikon support and they will fix it on warranty if it is a fault. But since it is only visible when on a scope the chance to get it fixed/replaced under warranty will be small. But I take the chance and I will have to pay a fee if they says it is ok. (600 SEK)

Hope I get a new camera since my scope adapter is simple and fast to attatch and remove. Used it with good results on my Fuji E900 but that camera had a bad thing, sometimes the image looked like a waterpainting.
 

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or zoom the camera lens to 60 mm (switch off Macro ) will get you to the theoretical best resolution. Neil.

i didn't know that Neil, thanks for the advice.
i have always shot with macro selected but will try some different options with the 50X now that i know better.
 
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