Hi Barry,
I was going to put this in my PM response (sorry I haven't been back earlier - I've got a few PMs to catch up on), but yeah, I have a few thoughts.
First: you're 600 shots in. That's just a single good day's shooting, and probably not enough time to really get a feel for how the lens works. Patience really is the key here, although I know the "
is my new lens a duffer?" anxiety - we all get it!
Some practical suggestions.
I can't make enough of the fact that, stabilised lens or not, you
must develop a good hand-holding technique: it isn't hard, but it needs to become second nature. This page is my usual reference:
http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/guides/technique/handholding1.html and tucking your elbows into your torso really makes a difference to the stability of the "platform".
You need to give the lens giros time to get up to speed: In the rush to get the shot it's easy to press the shutter too quickly, so you need to discipline yourself to wait until the image has settled in the viewfinder before taking the shot.
Related to the previous point - and a subtle one I haven't seen documented elsewhere, but which makes a massive difference (to me at least) - is a tip about focussing on the bird's eye.
We all know that we should, but I've learned that it's worth putting in an extra effort because of how the lens works.
I seem to be shooting in windy conditions more often than not, presumably because I'm on the coast, and I'm often getting knocked about. This is bound to affect how well I select my point of focus - but windy or not, this suggestion should be useful.
What I do is get onto the bird and half-depress the shutter to activate the IS: when it locks in, I'm probably not exactly on the eye,
so, with the image in the VF is now stable, I reposition my point of focus and reactivate the IS. Second time round (or third time if that's what it takes) when I
know I'm on the eye, I'll take the shot.
I might miss the odd shot being this pedantic, but the ones I get seem to work out pretty nice..!
A good example of this is the stonechat attached: much of the bird is slightly out of focus because the lens is wide open at f/5.6 and I was quite close to the bird, so the DOF is pretty thin; there's a bit of motion blur on the head and tail (only 1/250 shutter speed here - not ideal for 560mm hand-held, even with IS). It was windy (again!), this is hand-held, and of course I was also using the 1.4x TC.
But it's still my favourite/best stonechat now, and it works despite all the problems I mention,
because the eye is nice and sharp, thanks to me using this little trick.
And finally, keep an eye on the shutter speed - I often shoot at f/5.6 to maximise it, happy in the knowledge that the 100-400 is a damn' sight better wide open than some people give it credit for.
So there you go, that's what works for me.
I've got no reason to think I've got a "special" 100-400 (indeed for the first few months of ownership I was pretty sure I only had an "average" one - I would regularly describe it as being simply "sharp enough
for me" when writing about it - but a year in, as I use it more, it seems to be getting sharper!) and there's surely nowt special about me as a photographer. But from day one I was confident of the potential of the lens, and I've stuck at it.
My experiences closely mirror those of other 100-400 owners - there's a bit of a consensus among satisfied owners that there are more iffy 100-400 users than there are iffy 100-400s - and we all agree that it's a lens that needs to be given a chance.
I never use a tripod, but in addition to having a good hand-holding technique I will make use of any support options that are available in the field: I'll rest or lean on a fence post, gate or tree; I sometimes use my rucksack as a beanbag if I'm shooting low down; and I've even been known to swivel my Lowepro Slingshot 300 round to the front of my body and rest my elbows on it.
I don't really
need additional support, but equally I don't see why not if it's available.
I always use IS mode 1, and the camera is on Centre Point focus/AI Servo/Aperture Priority mode.
I'm crap at estimating distance, but I guess I was only 15 feet from this stonechat (oh yeah, another tip:
fieldcraft!)
It's important to keep a sense of proportion about your early experiences with the lens, Barry: you mention in your PM that you're getting excellent shots of your cat, so be confident that the lens is optically OK. Then bear in mind that although I've had the lens a year, I'm by no stretch of the imagination an experienced or knowledgeable photographer - I'm only two years in - but I'm doing OK with it, probably for no better reason than that I'm too bloody-minded to be beaten by a lump of glass and electronics!
And there we are, right back at my very first suggestion:
patience and perseverence!
If you want to chuck a few of your pictures my way, drop me a line at keithjreeder(AT)gmail.com. One point though: I know you use PSP XI: I used that for a while but went back to PSP X because XI tends to strip out the Exif from images unless you fanny about with a rather convoluted "save" routine. The Exif is really important in figuring out what's going on with a picture, so if you like I'd be happy to see RAW files, if that's doable...