KorHaan
Well-known member
kimmo and korhaan,
care to show with pictures of the cable tie on the scope ?
thanks
I've just started some instructional drawings; I'm enjoying it, I must say.
Just give me some time... B
Greetings, Ronald
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Finder scopes on spotting scopes? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cyclops
- Start date
I've just started some instructional drawings; I'm enjoying it, I must say.
Just give me some time... B
Greetings, Ronald
KorHaan
Well-known member
Kimmo,
One question.
On an angled scope where the eyepiece is located asymmetrically i.e. on the right of the center line of the scope ( as in the ED 82A ), which way should the cable tie be put on: clockwise, or counterclockwise?
Please let me know, I don't want to make wrong instructions in my illustrations.
Thanks, Ronald
One question.
On an angled scope where the eyepiece is located asymmetrically i.e. on the right of the center line of the scope ( as in the ED 82A ), which way should the cable tie be put on: clockwise, or counterclockwise?
Please let me know, I don't want to make wrong instructions in my illustrations.
Thanks, Ronald
Ronald,
Great that you took up the illustration idea!
Threading the cable tie so that the orientation matches the offset of the eyepiece will give it a shorter and more stable tip as well as an aesthetically more natural look. So, looking at the scope from the objective end (as I would do when assembling the sight), I would thread the tie clockwise. This means that the free end comes up on the same side as the eyepiece. If this explanation is not clear enough, you can model the situation even with a scope where the eyepiece is centered, by rotating the sight a bit to either side and imagining what it would look like if the eyepiece was offset. You will immediately notice that one orientation provides a significantly more vertical tip to the aiming device, while the other orientation places the tip in a more diagonal orientation. The diagonal orientation works also, but not as well.
Kimmo
Great that you took up the illustration idea!
Threading the cable tie so that the orientation matches the offset of the eyepiece will give it a shorter and more stable tip as well as an aesthetically more natural look. So, looking at the scope from the objective end (as I would do when assembling the sight), I would thread the tie clockwise. This means that the free end comes up on the same side as the eyepiece. If this explanation is not clear enough, you can model the situation even with a scope where the eyepiece is centered, by rotating the sight a bit to either side and imagining what it would look like if the eyepiece was offset. You will immediately notice that one orientation provides a significantly more vertical tip to the aiming device, while the other orientation places the tip in a more diagonal orientation. The diagonal orientation works also, but not as well.
Kimmo
KorHaan
Well-known member
Thanks Kimmo,
Now I know what you mean. Looking from the objective end of the scope toward the eyepiece, I hadn't thought of that yet. The sighting thingy should be as vertical as possible, I agree.
I am ready to post my instructional illustrations, done for an angled scope with centrally placed eyepiece.
Greetings, Ronald
KorHaan
Well-known member
KorHaan
Well-known member
Thanks!
It was fun doing it.
I'm planning to add one more to show the setup for an offset eyepiece design like Kimmo explained; he's really good in pointing out logically how to do it, I only have to put it on paper.
Greetings, Ronald
I use weaver mount red dot gun sights on all of my scopes.
They are fast, accurate and extremly robust for use out in the field.
They are a must for fast moving wildlife photography.
SF
Attachments
KorHaan
Well-known member
Wow! That's an impressive set of equipment you have!
No need for a cable tie thingy here... :eek!:
But with red dot gun sights, do you mean the things we see in action movies, where commando's are stalking up on each other with night vision goggles and all?!
I realise I may sound daft but one thing puzzles me.
If you're taking pictures wouldn't the red dot show on your photographs then?
Or can it be switched off somehow the moment you take the shot?
Greetings, Ronald
You are confusing a laser sight with a red dot sight.
The laser sight actually projects a dot on the target and the red dot does not. With the red dot you just put the dot on whatever you want then look through ep or camera viewfinder and there it is. Very simple and fast. Because they are made for hunting they are shockproof, waterproof and dustproof. Because of the rugged weaver mount they can be mounted and dismounted and then remounted with perfect repeatable accuracy.
I have also used a conventional rifle scope with cross hairs this way but it is much bigger and slower than a red dot because of the narrow field of view compared to a red dot due too it's magnification. See pic.
SF
Attachments
Ronald,
Excellent job, very clear and the style is really nice. There is just one thing that I wish you could change. That is to modify pictures from perhaps no.3 upwards to more clearly illustrate what Kanuuna's second photo, the top right one, shows of how, for both aiming and for correct calibration of the tip length, you have your eye virtually at the eyepiece. This means that the eyecup edge is almost intercepting your line of sight. Since your drawings show the operation from a higher angle, looking from behind and the rear, it might not become clear to people how this is done. Another alternative might be a schematic drawing from the side, which shows the target, the scope with its sight, and the viewer's head, with a dotted straight line from the target, through the tip of the sight and just grazing the eyecup edge, then entering the viewer's eye.
As far as Sout Fork's sight solution, I know that it works very well and has the added advantage (especially for photographing) that for aiming precisely your eye does not have to be precisely aligned on a certain line of sight behind the aiming device, as is necessary for the "open sight" such as the cable tie device. The cable tie, however, also has some advantages, such as virtually zero cost, virtually zero weight, unparalleled durability, replaceablility and ready availability, which lower the threshold for trying such a thing quite dramatically. So, I would recommend people to try the cable tie first, and to get a red dot sight later if they think they still need it. For those who do have a red dot sight and like it, the only reason to swap for a cable tie would be to save weight.
Kimmo
Excellent job, very clear and the style is really nice. There is just one thing that I wish you could change. That is to modify pictures from perhaps no.3 upwards to more clearly illustrate what Kanuuna's second photo, the top right one, shows of how, for both aiming and for correct calibration of the tip length, you have your eye virtually at the eyepiece. This means that the eyecup edge is almost intercepting your line of sight. Since your drawings show the operation from a higher angle, looking from behind and the rear, it might not become clear to people how this is done. Another alternative might be a schematic drawing from the side, which shows the target, the scope with its sight, and the viewer's head, with a dotted straight line from the target, through the tip of the sight and just grazing the eyecup edge, then entering the viewer's eye.
As far as Sout Fork's sight solution, I know that it works very well and has the added advantage (especially for photographing) that for aiming precisely your eye does not have to be precisely aligned on a certain line of sight behind the aiming device, as is necessary for the "open sight" such as the cable tie device. The cable tie, however, also has some advantages, such as virtually zero cost, virtually zero weight, unparalleled durability, replaceablility and ready availability, which lower the threshold for trying such a thing quite dramatically. So, I would recommend people to try the cable tie first, and to get a red dot sight later if they think they still need it. For those who do have a red dot sight and like it, the only reason to swap for a cable tie would be to save weight.
Kimmo
Kabsetz
You are totally right,allthoug Ronalds exeptional drawings illustrate exactly how it works.
If you hook two cable ties together,you can even have one tip shorter than the other and be spot on target with two different eyepieces(say a fixed wide and a zoom) just by rotating the sight 180 degrees.(the zoom is longer,so it needs a longer tip on the cable tie)
I use mine quite looseley fitted outside the sock of my ED82.Works a million.Costs nothing.A sheer joy to use.Birds in flight;No problem.
reg
Baltus
You are totally right,allthoug Ronalds exeptional drawings illustrate exactly how it works.
If you hook two cable ties together,you can even have one tip shorter than the other and be spot on target with two different eyepieces(say a fixed wide and a zoom) just by rotating the sight 180 degrees.(the zoom is longer,so it needs a longer tip on the cable tie)
I use mine quite looseley fitted outside the sock of my ED82.Works a million.Costs nothing.A sheer joy to use.Birds in flight;No problem.
reg
Baltus
Jason Bugay Reyes
Well-known member
i like your drawing korhaan and it helps me to understand how to set it up on my scope too hehehe thanks and thanks kimmo for the writing on how to setup the sighter using cable tie
KorHaan
Well-known member
Oh, I see... Thanks for explaining the difference. I didn't even know these things existed. Learned some more here.
Greetings, Ronald
KorHaan
Well-known member
Kimmo,
I've thought of your first suggestion, but have dismissed it in my drawings because it would frustrate the main goal of the illustrations. This meant I chose to show things from a higher angle than the actual viewing position just over the edge of the eyepiece.
Your alternative - a schematic drawing from the side - is an excellent suggestion; I'll add it to the instructional illustrations, since it is vitally important in the whole setup.
Greetings, Ronald
KorHaan
Well-known member
Cable tie sight viewing position
Hello all,
This shows the viewing position for using the cable tie sight.
For calibrating and adjusting the sight ( numbers 1 - 6 of my previous thumbnail instructional illustrations ) remember this is ALSO the right viewing position.
Greetings, Ronald
Hello all,
This shows the viewing position for using the cable tie sight.
For calibrating and adjusting the sight ( numbers 1 - 6 of my previous thumbnail instructional illustrations ) remember this is ALSO the right viewing position.
Greetings, Ronald
Attachments
KorHaan
Well-known member
Sancho,
Thanks!
I just tried to post the previous thumbnails again, all in one post to have the whole bunch together, but I was only allowed to attach 5 files and I had 7.
:C
Well, I guess anyone interested will read the whole thread or print the instructions.
Greetings, Ronald
