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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Ashanti Ghana Tour 18th Jan - 2 Feb 2015 (1 Viewer)

28th Jan

From Kumasi, Ghana's second largest city we headed out to the Opro river forest reserve, navigating a variety of back streets to beat the rush hour traffic which started up as early as we did.

The first new bird was Blue bellied roller which kick started the day from the vehicle on our approach to the reserve. On foot, we followed the main track through the forest. Sabine's puffback female was calling from deep under cover. William tried the tape and this actually succeeded in bring the male bird out. He flew over and went straight back in to cover while the female completely ignored us and stayed out of sight. In the same area we also picked up Cameroon sombre greenbul twice whilst I tried but failing to get onto a Brown illadopsis.

Further along White tailed alethe was calling again. William imitated the call and the bird was definitely moving closer. Then I picked up some movement, lifted my bins only to find a Green hylia while William called that the Alethe had come. I tried to see where he was looking and had a fleeting glimpse of a bird before it flew back into deep cover. We tried to relocate it but with no luck so we pressed on.

Western bronze naped pigeon was calling very distantly but the tree it should have been in looked empty. Not to worry we were about to get the star bird of the day when William suddenly said the Yellow footed honeyguide was calling. This bird proved easier to locate and after a few minutes of watching it quite high up it flew across the track and much closer to us for a while until it worked it's way through the leaves and out of sight.

As we set off up the track, the Western bronze naped pigeon suddenly called from much closer. We back tracked a little to see that a pair had moved to the edge of the track but the male immediately took off and was lost. The female sat a while longer although the light was terrible she was positioned with the glaring sun behind her so that the scope views were mediochre at best.

We passed an area where Capuchin babbler was sometimes seen and tried and failed once more for White tailed alethe before a family party of Tit hylias passed through and I watched a parent feeding a young bird.

We tried a couple of tracks further in where our main target was Blue headed bee-eater but the area was very quiet. Perhaps this is unsurprising as on our return a bulldozer had moved to widen the road and some of the habitat I saw in the morning was gone. Apparently the widening is necessary to allow large vehicles in for logging. A depressing thought.

We did however pick up one more bird on our way out, or actually two in the way of a pair of Great (Black) sparrowhawks flying over in a leisurely fashion.

We tried some other forest area on the other side of the main road next before heading back for lunch but all was quiet in the heat of the day. Possibly the same pair of sparrowhawks were seen again on this side of the road.

Te evening was spent in Bobiri forest, a butterfly reserve more easily accessed from Kumasi as it was on the same side of town as our Hotel.

Fleeting untickable views of probable Black throated coucal from the vehicle on our way in were frustrating. We stopped and walked toward the entrance proper while our minibus ran on ahead to wait for us. William called in Red billed dwarf hornbill along the way, the only one of the trip.

The only other new bird was a single fly by of Narrow tailed starling as the evening fizzled out with a Wood owl calling once and Red chested owlet giving us the slip. This is also apparently a place where African grey parrot can be seen roosting but a couple of flyovers in poor light was all we managed.
 
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great day

27th Jan

Well today was not about quantity but quality. A pre-dawn start to head back to Praso and make a second attempt for Rock pratincole, then trying to pick up some loose ends in and around Kakum before heading to the Yellow headed picathartes site in the afternoon.

We arrived at the river around 7 am and saw many of the same birds as previously including the White throated blue swallow but this time also four Rock pratincoles were present on the rocks mid river. What a relief and a beautiful species to watch.

We also stopped off at a breeding site for Preuss' cliff swallow, although the nests were no longer in use there were hundreds of birds in the air.

The aim was to arrive at the Picathartes site near Bonkro in the late afternoon. The birds had been coming back to the area around 4.30 pm typically but earlier in the event of rain. This gave us plenty of time to stop at various forest sections along the way, all part of the Kakum forest. Our first stop not far from the main entrance to the canopy walk produced Pale flycatcher for the trip.

We had another productive walk in an arm of the forest about half way to Bonkro where the only White headed wood hoopoe of the trip showed well high up but close to the track. A little further along and not for the first time, William attempted the whistle of a Long tailed hawk. He had often tried this around the forest edge in various places without luck but now an answer and out of the trees he came before landing in open view. Not long enough to scope unfortunately but very satisfactory nonetheless.

We arrived in Bonkro where Ashanti are working with the community to educate them about the importance of the Picathartes and conservation in general. Again we were joined by a local guide to lead the way to the viewing area along with his young protégé. I was in quite a hurry to reach the spot, this was the iconic bird of the trip and one I didn't want to miss in any circumstances.

We were at the nest site (one of several in the area) about 3.40pm. I was assured that the birds come in around 4.30pm so we sat on a slightly lopsided bench which had been placed for just this purpose. It was frustrating that during this wait we heard both Bioko batis and Afep pigeon but there was nothing to be done about it.

Four thirty arrived and I wondered how long the birds would keep me waiting. The answer to this question was three minutes! the first of two Yellow headed picathartes came in from the left and passed right in front of us. It seemed a little unsure about our presence and retreated a little way away just out of sight. A few minutes later a second bird came and this one was obviously very used to the arrangement as it sat in the low vines only 5 or so metres from us preening. This bird was truly the highlight of the trip, it really gives the impression of being quite unearthly or prehistoric with it's bald smooth yellow head and huge black eye.

After the bird move to join it's mate we retreated back into the forest where we planned to stay until dark for one more attempt at Akun eagle owl. In the meantime although the batis had escaped, Afep pigeon was still calling so we headed in the right general direction and figured out which tree it was in. A bit of effort required as the bird moved a couple of times but I eventually got good views of the underside of the bird at least.

As the light faded, Red fronted parrots came over stopping briefly in the canopy. A Rufous sided broadbill was also calling and much easier to find than the bird in Ankasa. We picked our spot where the local guide had seen the Akun eagle owl come to before and waited for the right time. Forest francolin called and we tried to locate it but it soon stopped so we returned to the chosen tree with its exposed branches and played the tape. Immediate response! Akun eagle owl in exactly the anticipated spot, what a great end to the day.

Except it wasn't quite over. It was a fair walk back to the village and the minibus. Up to this point William had been dealing with tipping the local guides, I'm not sure what the correct protocol was but I intended to tip William and Prince at the end of the trip and leave the rest to them which they seemed quite happy with. In this case however since the guide and his young assistant were just local village people and had shown such enthusiasm I made a point of tipping them for their efforts.

Anyway, between the village and the main road along the track a nightjar was sat in the road. We were able to get out and scope my first Plain nightjar and now the day really had ended.

That said, there were still a few hours between us and the hotel. Due to the lateness of our arrival we stopped for takeaway Pizza just before we reached there around 11pm.

really good day and jealous of Akun Eagle Owl and long-Tailed Hawk which we didn't get views of only heard.
 
29th Jan

Yesterday had felt like a lot of hard work, some good birds but also some missed opportunities. Today was arguably even worse. An African hobby flying along side our vehicle while leaving Kumasi got the day off to a promising start as we headed back to Bobiri for the morning before making the journey to Atewa.

Along the entrance road it took some considerable time to connect with a Kemp's longbill. African grey hornbill worth a mention too as it was very much in the wrong habitat here.

There was a fair gap then before we added any new species to the list although the area was quite quiet and there wasn't even a great deal in the way of previously seen species, Olive green cameroptera and Red billed helmet shrike being about the best of it.

Eventually a Purple throated cuckooshrike deigned to perk things up a bit. A male which obstinately refused to show well, moving from tree top to tree top always partly obscured. We tried caling the Red chested owlet in the same area it had been calling the previous evening but there was no response, then I spotted a raptor moving behind the trees. Of course it was on the wrong side so against the sun but when it finally came out William was convinced it was Ayre's hawk eagle. All I could see was a large silhouetted raptor which was followed by another. The second was clearly an African harrier hawk but I had to let the first one go unidentified.

The next dip was African piculet. William identified the call and we traced it to a nearby tree but I once again failed to connect with it as it moved constantly under cover. I did see something flit from one tree to the next eventually but it really could have been anything and I was begining to feel quite frustrated with how the day was going.

On our walk back to the vehicle my fortunes turned upward a bit as a group of Bristle nosed barbets foraged on branched high over the track affording the first decent views of a new bird all day!

Once we were back in the parking area William heard Least honeyguide and succesfully called one into a tree overhead. I was able to scope it and see that it was a young bird. An adult was still calling not far away but this bird only made occasional thin wheezing noises while I watched it.

Now we were ready to move on to Atewa, a range of forested hills. Having failed to pick up Blue headed bee-eater thus far, it was the main target here and to maximise our chances we walked right up to the summit this evening in the knowledge that we could do so again the following day.

This turned out to be about a 10 mile round walk the return leg of which was completed in the dark and to add insult to injury (injury being the blisters I acquired), there was not a trace of the bee-eater although a late Black bee-eater had us both going for a second.

Three other new birds made the list jouring the evening. A single Grey throated tit flycatcher in a mixed flock was first while we had both Lemon bellied crombec and Shrike flycatcher in the same tree near the top.

Views of these two birds was poor due to the light. I was to see the Shrike flycatcher again later in the trip but had to settle for the poor crombec views.

Definitely the least satisfactory day of the trip but seven lifers is seven lifers. I've been on full holidays where I wouldn't see that many but such is the nature of birding in the tropics that you can't help but be greedy for new birds!
 
30 Jan

Having failed to pick up the Blue headed (Blue moustached - my taxonomy is rarely up to date) bee-eater another ascent was required. We planned to have a full day so packed up some food for lunch to take with us. No local guide here, just me and William while Prince manned the minibus.

There were several other key birds to try for here as once we moved to Kalapke they would no longer be available. Brown illadopsis, Narina's trogon, Green tailed bristlebill and White tailed alethe amongst others. We also tried for Yellow throated cuckoo along the way although we would have another chance for this later.

We drove through the grassy area approaching the hills at first light and began our ascent. Yesterday was a little rushed due to time but today between blisters and making sure we didn't miss anything we took our time. More rustling in the bushes on the way up was another Black throated coucal escaping with inadequate views for me but an early flock containing mostly White throated greenbuls was welcome, especially as further into the undergrowth I managed to get onto Brown illadopsis.

Not seen too well because of the vegetation but it was interesting to compare it's slow methodical branch to branch movement with the more erratic greenbuls.

Birding was rather good this morning, a relief from the struggles of the previous day although new species were thin on the ground. Hairy breasted barbet, Bristle nosed barbet, Speckled tinkerbird, Fraser's sunbird, Collared sunbird, a barrage of greenbuls including Red tailed bristlebill, Western bearded greenbul, Yellow bearded greenbul, Honeyguide greenbul, Slender billed greenbul, Ansorge's greenbul. Unfortunately the one I needed still, Green tailed bristlebill although heard proved too elusive.

Another of our main targets was also heard next, Narina's trogon. It was rather mobile and eventually moved beyond where we could realistically follow so we returned to the main track where we were quickly onto a Willcock's honeyguide which came in to the nearest tree in response to it's tape.

William must have heard Red chested owlet, I thought we had lost the chance of this bird but apparently not because after William's imitation it moved in closer and once we identified the tree it was in I was able to scope this very pleasing bird.

We were not more than half way to where we had walked yesterday by this point but decided to try for the trogon again rather than move on at this point. Time was still on our side so we retraced our steps back down a side path which lead to a small stream. This was the last point at which we had heard the trogon and sure enough it was calling again.

This time William somehow found the bird high in the canopy and perhaps even more amazingly, managed to get me on it. Narina's trogon on the list and the day going rather well.

A little higher up we broke for an early lunch, if for no other reason than to reduce the weight of our packs. I sat on a log which turned out to be rather rotten so anyone who ventures this way again may notice an arse shaped indentation in a log on the left side of the track!

A little further along from here and we were once again following the call of White tailed alethe. This is apparently not that hard a bird to see generally but it was surely my bogey bird for the trip with the number of near misses. This time though persistence paid off in an unexpected way as we went off track only to come straight upon a Forest scrub robin, a much harder bird to see but there it was! Not too fussed by our arrival it continued to forage on the ground and I continued to watch while listening to see if the Alethe began calling again. It didn't.

I was also mindful that there had been no trace of the bee-eater again and we were pushing on beyond where we had walked the previous day. We tried optimistically for Nimba flycathcer then located a Many-coloured bush-shrike, the male orange breasted form which showed well but high up, more punishment for my neck after the owlet and the trogon. Good views too of female Purple throated cuckooshrike around here.

The day was passing and the birds were much quieter by this time. We had stopped several times at likely spots for the bee-eater. A Forest chestnut winged starling, not seen since the first day in Kakum from the canopy was nice as we began to work our way slowly back. About one third of the way, there was a fork in the track with a second smaller track running back down the hill in another direction.

We headed down this a short distance and there right at the edge of the track was our target. I didn't want to jump to conclusions after the black-bee eater the evening before but a quick double take confirmed I was now looking at Blue headed bee-eater.

It didn't hang around for long but headed up into the canopy. Turning back up the track to get some height I was able to relocate and scope it. Chuffed with that experience we headed back towards the minibus, taking a detour to the stream again for a last effort at the missing greenbul but all that was calling was some kind of frog which William said was very similar to White tailed ant thrush but not close enough to make the heard list.

The last new species of the day was a female Black and white flycatcher where the trees began to give way to scrub. We reached the bottom in the fading light where the group three days behind me, now running two days behind due to my extra day had caught us up and were exploring the grassy area and cleared forest around the base of the hill.

We exchanged news as a Honey buzzard zipped through briefly. Tomorrow they would by heading up to the summit while I would spend the morning at the base before making the long drive to Kalapke. At this point I was pretty shattered after two long, steep walks on two consecutive days and this was the only evening we didn't stay out late for owls.
 
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Glad you got the Blue Moustached bee-eater

30 Jan

This time William somehow found the bird high in the canopy and perhaps even more amazingly, managed to get me on it. Narina's trogon on the list and the day going rather well.


We headed down this a short distance and there right at the edge of the track was our target. I didn't want to jump to conclusions after the black-bee eater the evening before but a quick double take confirmed I was now looking at Blue headed bee-eater.

Some good birds and glad you got the Trogon and Bee-eater. I think we probably made the right decision to spend more time at Offinso and Bobiri as it sounds much easier walking and birding, I even managed some photos of the Trogon and Bee-eater, which I'll post later, which Victor reckons I wouldn't have got at Attewa.

Really good to compare notes on two trips so close together.

Of course we gave up chance of Nimba Flycatcher.
 
Some good birds and glad you got the Trogon and Bee-eater. I think we probably made the right decision to spend more time at Offinso and Bobiri as it sounds much easier walking and birding, I even managed some photos of the Trogon and Bee-eater, which I'll post later, which Victor reckons I wouldn't have got at Attewa.

Really good to compare notes on two trips so close together.

Of course we gave up chance of Nimba Flycatcher.

Yes, I was pleased enough with my views of these two but it was hard work. The rain that must have fallen between my trip and yours may have increased your chances for the Nimba but I wouldn't have fancied the ascent if the ground was full of puddles and mud.
 
31 Jan

A more leisurely start this morning since we didn't have a long drive meant that there was enough light to see the regular village species on the way to Atewa. Cattle egret, Pied crow and Laughing dove and we also passed a large fruit bat colony to which I hadn't seen in the dark yesterday.

Around the base of the Atewa hills in the scrub and grassy areas were an array of Weavers (Village, Black necked, Vieillot's black), Mannikins (Black and white, Bronze and another Magpie manikin), Northen puffback , Brown crowned tchagra while new for the trip was Mosque swallow, two perched and at least two more in the air.

A good but distant candidate for Congo serpent eagle didn't linger long enough to be scoped and confirmed. We followed the track around to where logging had taken place apparently to access a gold vein but all the work had now ceased in the area leaving the area devoid of vegetation.

A stream running though the area to a small pond with some reeds held Wood, Common and new for the trip Green sandpiper and there were also Yellow wagtail and Little bee-eater around. At the forest edge a Red necked buzzard perched and Fraser's forest flycatcher was present too.

We spent a small amount of time just inside the forest in the hope of picking up the call of White tailed alethe before embarking on the long drive to Kalapke.

The journey was made longer by the bridge being closed for repairs forcing us to queue for the ferry over the Volta. We stopped at the bat colony first however where a Grey woodpecker was sharing one of the dead trees with the multitude of bats.

The journey was largely uneventful. A Plain backed pipit while waiting for the ferry and four fly over Piapiac in a town called Sokode the best of it. Fortunately the queue at the ferry was not especially long and we finally made it to our hotel.

Kalapke was savannah habitat again with a spur of forest running from the Volta offering an opportunity for a mixture of species. We approached the forest area in our vehicle through the Savannah stopping occasionally to walk sections before being caught and picked up again.

A flurry of activity at the first stop saw us add Fine spotted woodpecker, Red shouldered cuckooshrike and Sulphur breasted bush-shrike. Back in the Savannah so excellent scope views of all. No lifers up to this point today though so a pair of Double toothed barbets were very welcome, present at their nest site here, I saw them for the next three days in much the same spot.

We headed for some small buildings at the edge of the forest where we would meet our local guide for the following day picking up African golden oriole, African moustached warbler, Double spurred francolin and Yellow fronted canary as we went.

With our new guide we headed into the forest for an attempt at Wood owl which responded to the tape insofar as to allow us within a couple of trees of it's position before moving elsewhere unseen.

We eventually gave up on the owl but were about to have an other amazing highlight of the trip.

As we left the forest proper to where the trees thinned out, William attempted Black shouldered nightjar. None had been calling so we were not optimistic, however one called back and we picked it up on a low branch where it stayed for brilliant scope views. Nightjar number 1.

We now went back to the minibus and set off back to the hotel for a late dinner keeping an eye on the track for more nightjars. A female Long tailed, then not much further up the road a male Long tailed nightjar in the road. Nightjar number 2.

It wasn't long before two more nightjars in the road. More of the same, no chance. Two male Standard winged nightjars which kept giving display flights before returning to the road. Not a lifer for me but to see them like this was truly amazing. Nightjar number 3.

Just one more before we got back to the main road, and ok, it wasn't new for the trip but Plain nightjar made Nightjar number 4.

4 species of nightjar in probably less than an hour all showing incredibly well is going to take some beating on future trips.
 
Fast approaching the end of the trip now I had one full day remaining at Kalakpa, then the following morning before heading back to the airport via the Sukomona lagoons.

We drove into reserve in time for first light, searching the grasses for Compact weaver which had eluded us the previous day here and at Atewa. The area was productive with early morning activity. Good views of African moustached warbler and African golden oriole again. African cuckoo was a new bird for me, I'd expected it to be difficult to seperate from our own Cuckoo but this turned out not to be the case as the bird sat right out in the open showing the extend of yellow on the bill. If this was not enough, it began to call attracting the attention of the African golden oriole which saw it off quite aggressively.

Grey headed bush-shrike was calling either side of the track but not showing. While searching I came across Yellow billed shrike but the nearest bush-shrike remained hidded so we set off to where the other bird was calling.

This one was sat in a more exposed position giving me the chance to scope it, then as we headed back to the minibus to try another point a pair of Compact weavers came in right by the roadside, distinctive even though not in breeding plumage.

The Double toothed barbets were on duty a little further along, and William pointed out a non-breeding Northern red bishop. We joined our guide for the day before heading back into the wooded area once more. In the approach to the dense forest, in a more open section with scattered trees we tried for Thick billed cuckoo which our guide had seen a few days previous. No luck but there were a few Lesser blue eared glossy starlings around and a party of Green woodhoopoes to bolster the species for the trip as well as a Striped kingfisher.

At the edge of the forest the only African paradise flycatcher and Fork tailed drongo I managed for the trip and then nothing. The forest was very poor indeed. We did ger decent views of Shrike flycatcher and Least honeyguide. Blue breasted kingfisher called but didn't respond and Capuchin babbler passed through noisily but apparently invisibly too.

The evening was equally disappointing. Shikra and Heuglin's masked weaver around the edge of the forest prevented it being a complete write off but we attempted an area for Leaflove with no success. To further compound the failure, a rainstorm came in as we tried for Wood owl and we were forced back to the minibus to dry off. The rain didn't look like stopping so we gave up but by the time we reached the hotel again the weather had cleared up but Wood owl had escaped as there would be no further chances to try.
 
2 Feb

Last day and the flight home was not until the evening. Unlike some companies I've travelled with, there was no rush back to the airport to leave you stuck there 5 hours before your flight. We utilised the time today with a last morning around Kalakpa and then down to Sukomona lagoons to bulk up the trip list with waders!

We went straight to the forest area this morning, the main target being Capuchin babbler. The forest was just as poor as the previous day although we started our forest birding an hour earlier having skipped over the Savannah habitat. Nonetheless, we eventually heard Capuchin babbler again and positioned ourselves at a point where the birds were moving closer. After a brief wait, one broke cover flying across a bit of clearing and perching ever so frustratingly out of my line of sight. A quick adjustment of position but the bird was off again and the second bird came through without stopping.

Nice to see but views were brief and flight only in the end. We spent a little more time in the forest but it was so quiet and at around 10am we left. Between the forest and the minibus a group of Helmeted guineafowl flushed low into the trees with one perching so as to be viewable.

The last bird to make the list here, a good bird for the area apparently was a Long crested eagle perched in a bare tree in the savannah area spotted from the minibus.

Our journey back over the Volta was arduous with one of the ferries not working we had to queue some considerable time and by the time we were nearing the front of the queue, the necessary repairs had been made and normal service was resumed. Further delays were caused by the navigation through Tema where the traffic was very heavy but eventually we reached the lagoons.

Viewed first from a road between the lagoon and the sea initially, the obvious waders that stood out were Black winged stilt and Spur winged plover. Also present were Grey plover, Dunlin, Greenshank and several Collared pratincole. More distant in the main body of water, hundreds of White faced whistling ducks, Great white egrets and a hazy Purple swamphen.

Facing the other way we watched the sea for a brief time. A single Royal tern and several Sandwich terns were fishing offshore but attention was quickly back to the activity in the lagoon. It was clear that there were other species present but the distance and haze was making it difficult so we drove around a housing area and approached the lagoons from the other side. Brown babbler and Purple glossy starling made the trip list in the scrub around the habitation then we made our way towards the lagoon across a sandy area with more Collared pratincoles and two Kentish plovers.

We were able to approach fairly close to the water and watch Little stint, Curlew sandpiper, Ruff and Black tailed godwit in good numbers with singles of Marsh sandpiper, Spotted redshank and Snipe.

We scoped among the many Great white egrets to find several Intermediate egrets also present. There were better views of Purple swamphen, Purple heron and the only Glossy ibis of the trip from here too.

A marsh tern went by quickly and never returned so I couldn't confirm the species while Winding cisticola called somewhere but refused to show. A single Kittlitz plover was on the waters edge as we retraced our steps along the water's edge and the last new species for the trip came in the way of Long tailed glossy starling in the scrub.

Finally and sadly it was time to leave. We ate at a bar near the airport before I gave my thanks and said my goodbyes to William and Prince. Return flights went without a hitch and I was back in the UK on the morning of the 3rd.

As promised, I will give a rundown of the mammals seen in my next post to conclude the report.
 
Mammal list:

1. Olive baboon - Several parties at Shai hills
2. Callithrix monkeys - Small group at Shai hills again
3. Lowe's monkey - Poor views twice at Ankasa
4. Potto - After dark while walking back from the Canopy area in Kakum then a mother with baby in Ankasa also after dark
5. Demidoff's Galago - Singles after dark in both Ankasa and Kalapka
6. Straw coloured fruit bat - Large colony near Atewa
7. Hammer bat - Evenings at Kakum and Ankasa
8. Tomb bat - In the cave visited at Shai hills
9. Fire footed rope squirrel - A few seen around Kakum and Ankasa
10. Green squirrel - Seen on a couple of occasions at Ankasa
11. Slender tailed squirrel - From the canopy walk in Kakum
12. Forest giant squirrel - In the evening at Kakum before reaching the canopy walk area
13. Marsh mongoose - Two across the road in Kalapka, also a large mongoose in Bobiri must have been this species as far as I can tell unless there is some other large dark mongoose that wasn't in William's mammal book.
14. Buffon Kob - Distant in Shai hills

Reptiles

Dwarf crocodile - A pair on a log at the first pool in Ankasa on one occasion of visiting
Nile Monitor - At the same pool on an other occason


Various other bats, lizards, toads and butterflies but I had no way of identifying them and that concludes the report. Hopefully useful particularly in conjunction with David's report on here travelling about two weeks behind me and heading up to Mole as well.
 
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