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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Southern Sumatra Feb 2013 (1 Viewer)

Sumatran Cochoa continued… (yes Im making the most of it :)

We birded along the main trail all morning, steadily heading up hill. As we reached the ridgeline late morning we paused to have a break. I took this opportunity to slip off down the other side of the hill to record some Siamang Gibbons that were loudly calling away down slope. As I left the other three I said Id give them a signal if I had anything worthwhile, hoping they too would reciprocate. I wound my way down from the summit into a stretch of bamboo dominated forest on steep slopes, with the trail being forced into a short set of switchbacks to ascend to its summit point. I stopped and sorted out my sound recording equipment and then pressed record on the machine to get some more Gibbon calls. About a minute and a half into the recording a dark bird flew along the side of the hill inside the bamboo canopy and landed out of sight to my right. I thought this was definitely interesting; it was a chunky thrush sized dark bird, with a different jizz from everything else seen earlier …could it possibly be?? Still recording, incase it turned out to be either unfindable or something common, I sidestepped along the trail about five paces to where the bird landed. I put up binos using one hand, mic in the other, and could see, partially obscured, a stonking male Sumatran Cochoa staring back! Uttering a few choice swear words to myself, I abandoned the microphone, dangling somewhere on me, and picked up my camera to get a record shot, which was also dangling on my shoulder. Having been the sole observer of an unphotographed pitta the day before, even the most honest of folk would be subject to other birders enquiring minds of slight disbelief if this one also disappeared. I couldn’t get auto focus to work so put it on manual and got the worst of record shots (Photo 1), no doubt suffering from my shaking hands as well as the low light, but it does show my first views of the bird. I then side stepped as gingerly as possible to get the bird non obscured, and then rattled off a series of about five photos in quick succession (one being Photo 2).

The next step was to get the others on it. I side stepped further along the trail, and then back stepped, keeping my eyes on the bird rather than where I was going, slowly moving backwards trying as hard as possible not to spook it. On reaching the first switchback and then loosing sight of the bird round the bend I legged it up the hill and whistled to the others who were not too far away. Martin was first down the trail, followed by Holger and as they came into view I called out Cochoa to them. Their faces were probably a mixture of fear of potentially missing a major sighting and excitement that round the corner was a mega bird. We all got to the point of where I had left the bird and it was not sitting out in the place I had last seen it. A moments panic that it had flown off was however quickly extinguished as we picked the bird up further back on the same tree, mostly obscured with just his head visible (Photo 3).

After the first few seconds of everyone getting onto a viewing position and getting some photos, we could all relax and soak in the beauty of the bird. It even hopped back out into full view and allowed us to watch it preening and loafing around. Between us we took many photos, my favourite two are with flash (Photos 4 & 5) as it brings out the blue colours on the breast & belly and lights up the bird better than non-flash in the dark sub canopy, but it does provide a slightly artificial view of the bird compared to real life. The bird was on view for just under three hours (!) and spent the most of that time sitting quietly and still just under the canopy of the forest. Im sure that without it being near the path, or me having luckily been in the right position to pick up the bird as it flew in, we could easily have walked right past it.

This was not the end of our Cochoa experience either, the final day, on our walk out we disturbed the bird again in the same general area right above the path this time. It picked its way quickly to the canopy this time and flew towards the ridgeline. As we descended for our final time of the trip the Cohcoa called from high up on the ridgeline for about 45 minutes, the call floating around us as we wound our way down the pathway out of the forest.

I didn’t record the Cochoa calling, but I did after our three hour stint with it, go back to recording the Siamang Gibbons, which were still going for it down slope. The unedited recording is here. At just over 1 min you can hear the whoosh of a Bushy-crested Hornbill wingbeat that flew into the tree next to where I was recording, followed by the clatter of my camera and mic colliding as I unsuccessfully attempted a photo before it flew off again (it had landed only 5m away). Not very professional on the sound recording front.
 

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Wren Babblers

The cold and windy day had one other surprise for us with a Sumatran Wren Babbler just below the stream crossing past the old camp area. We had cracking views of this bird on and off for around 10-15mins, the bird even sitting out completely in the open at times, if in a very dark part of the forest. I managed to grab a recording of the birds song, here. This bird was a lifer for Gamal as well as us, and my first of the Long-billed Wren Babbler trio.

Danau Ranau it seems is good for Wren Babblers. As well as the Sumatran Wren Babbler (a cracker! See Photos 1 & 2), we recorded five species which included the other endemic, Rusty-breasted Wren Babbler (untickable views sadly, i don’t know why we didn’t put a bit more effort in for this one); the bruiser, Marbled Wren Babbler (heard only, but having seen it in that gulley on Frasers Hill I wasn’t too gutted); Eye-browed Wren Babbler (quite common); and finally Pygmy Wren Babbler (ok no longer strictly a Wren Babbler).

The last three photos on this post are of the forest at Danau Ranau, firstly (Photo 3) the main trail just below the old camp area, (Photo 4) showing a massive strangler fig, hard to see from this photo but it was about six metres diameter at breast height (DBH)! Photo 5 is the patch of bamboo forest and trail where we had our Cochoa sighting.
 

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Other wildlife

Aside from the two Gibbon species in the forests here, there was also the endemic species of Leaf Monkey/Langur, the Mitred Leaf Monkey or Sumatran Surili. The status of these Langurs in western Indonesia does not yet appear to fully documented, and whether certain forms are worthy of being elevated to species. At present four subspecies are recognised by IUCN, with two present along the southern Barisan Range, Yellow-handed Mitered Langur (ssp. melalophos) and Southern Mitered Langur (ssp. mitrata). As can be seen on Photos 1 & 2 the ones we saw appeared to be more pinky-orange on the bare parts and maybe fit the assumed range of Southern more closely, but I cant find any data on sub-specific differences so am not 100% sure.

Another mystery is the forest dragon type lizard seen crossing the main trail one afternoon. It was dark, maybe more so than normal as it may have been out of favoured habitat and feeling threatened, especially when we turned up. Its white & pink iris is a very obvious feature, with separated Nuchal and Dorsal crests that are lance like, and it was also relatively large (Photos 3 & 4). Looking in the Reptiles of South East Asia (Indraneil Das et al, 2010), which does actually cover Indonesia to the Greater Sundas, the closest I can get to is Kloss’s Angle Headed Dragon Gonochepalus klossi, but it doesn’t seem right, especially with the illustration.

The final photo, Photo 5, is of an Orchid that was growing on the edge of the forest in rough grassland/forest edge. It appears to be a species of terrestrial Bog Orchid, Habenaria medusa – I suppose a ‘Snake-locks’ Orchid after the Greek goddess Medusa. Found through the Greater Sundas, Sulawesi and even onto the continent of Tropical East Asia.
 

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Misc Photos

Instead of camping in the forest at Danau Ranau we commandeered a workers hut in the nearby coffee plantation, ‘the coffee house’ at Photos 1 & 2. Another leaf mimic at Photo 3 is a grasshopper that was frequent in the Coffee plantation around where we stayed. Photo 4 is a typical portrait of Gamal on a cigarette break, here at the main forest clearing overlooking Danau Ranau itself. The last Photo 5 is of Sumatran/Sunda Collared Owlet, common in the forest at Danau Ranau during our visit.
 

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Final Thoughts

To all of you who havent yet been and were vaguely considering this place as a destination, id put it on the list because it is a great place, if sometimes a little basic (ok a lot of the time it's very basic - but that's part of the fun/experience), and it has some quality birds and wildlife to see. And you now have two reports covering south and central from this year as some recent background, logistics and what was achieved.

Ive attached a species list, use the tabs. I personally managed just under 30 lifers, mostly quality endemics or range restricted species.

The report is also posted on Burung Nusantara as a pdf without all my additional waffle, just the useful bits.

Cheers,
Gareth
 

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A great report - I especially like the detailed accounts of your major target birds. Not sure I'll ever get to do such hardcore birding, but its great to see that the rewards are there to be dreamed about.

Cheers
Mike
 
Thanks for the additional comments. Mike Ive been dreaming about Schneider's Pitta for a number of years, so it was good to get into their forests; the Cochoa however did indeed turn out to be the more epic sighting, and my first Cochoa too, now to go see the others in a similar fashion!

Cheers,
 
Gareth,

Totally mind-blowing photos of the Cochoa, and way ahead of anything else that is published - congratulations!

Dave
 
painful reading for me, my sumatran trip (1995) was somewhat scuttled when my canoe sank at way kambas, bins/camera and canoe was always a bad idea! Only hearing schneider's was another major kick in the teeth - i will have to go back. Ta for the great report and inspiration.

Paul:t:
 
painful reading for me, my sumatran trip (1995) was somewhat scuttled when my canoe sank at way kambas, bins/camera and canoe was always a bad idea! Only hearing schneider's was another major kick in the teeth - i will have to go back. Ta for the great report and inspiration.

Paul:t:

Paul - Sounds like worst nightmare scenario on the canoe front!

Re Schneider's - Being greedy I ofcourse want to go back to see a blue one now, as well as a few more endemics and Sumatran Orang, but so many places and so little time and money.

Cheers,
 
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painful reading for me, my sumatran trip (1995) was somewhat scuttled when my canoe sank at way kambas, bins/camera and canoe was always a bad idea! Only hearing schneider's was another major kick in the teeth - i will have to go back. Ta for the great report and inspiration.

Paul:t:

Yes great report, and a gripping read for me too. Like Paul, I also went in the early nineties, and armed with just the Greater Sundas field guide for site gen (!), so missed a fair few of the endemics, and would love to return one day. Didn't even know that the Cochoa had been 'rediscovered' or anywhere to look for Graceful Pitta.

I did manage to see two Schneider's Pittas up Mt Kerinci, and had a Bronze-tailed Peacock-Pheasant walking along the track near what was then the start of the forest (a fair way below the 'aer minum' sign). Think the forest might have receded since then??

Feel lucky now though that there were no sinking canoes involved!
 
Cheers guys, been away in France for a few days, a bit different a trip to Sumatra!

Must have been fun you guys doing it in the early 90's, without all the copious gen the web gives us today. A proper adventure. Not that im complaining about the gen, very grateful for it, and hope my bit adds to what is out there.
 
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