We did end up spending three nights at Rio Azul earlier this month. Rio Azul is family-run, and they are very welcoming, and the place really does feel like a home, I imagine much more so than Cristalino. The place is run by a couple and their son, Carlos, who is about 30 and speaks good English. He picked us up at the airport and was with us throughout. We saw quite a few nice birds, including Crimson Topaz, Bald Parrot and Tapajos Hermit, although Carlos is not a bird guide (he knows the birds pretty well, but isn't a specialist), and we don't use playback. We went out on the river every day, with Carlos Sr. piloting, primarily looking for the Crimson Topaz, who only deigned to appear on the last day - we were pretty antsy by then! We also walked the trails on the property, often on our own.
For us, this was the most expensive place we've visited. In addition to the lodge itself, the transfer from Alta Floresta was about $275, and the round-trip flight from Cuiaba was $200 ... and that's when the dollar is strong against the real. However, I would definitely consider Rio Azul if Cristalino is a touch too rich for your blood. Note that, going forward, they're charging in USD at Rio Azul, I believe they said $198 per person, but that's probably only when sharing a double.
