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Anyones 8x32 EL Swarovisions Ship Yet? (1 Viewer)

Brock,

Your replies had me chuckling, but after carefully reading them, I am more mystified than ever as to the nature of some of the ergonomic challenges that you are struggling with.



I had no idea that I was so talented! I’ll have to add that somewhere in my CV :) I don’t know if my hands are as large as yours (my palm is wide, my thumb is fat, but I think my fingers are shorter), but I can hold some small bins in a way that feels very natural to me. Am I a finger contortionist? I’ll attach some picks of me holding a small bin (Leica 8x20 Ultravid) so you can judge for yourself. My hands with that bin overlap one another more than I prefer, but otherwise the position is not much different from how I hold full-sized bins. Note in the pics that I have intentionally unfolded the 8x20 Ultravid asymmetrically in order to make more room for my right thumb and extend the reach to the focuser so that my index finder doesn't overshoot it like it would with symmetrical single-hinged 8x20 (or even some 8x32) roofs.



I’m not going to argue the specifics of the Nikon 8x32 HG—it’s not one of my favorites (mainly for its poor “hang”)—and I’ve not argued that every binocular will fit every user well. Rather, my argument is that describing a binocular as “too small” for one’s hands is not helpful for anyone (including, we can hope, binocular designers) trying to understand the problem being confronted. I argue that the match between bino size and hand size is not itself the issue, but instead, the problem relates to the type of grip that one prefers. I contend that many folks with large hands get on well with small bins. But I’m not against improving bins to fit even more users, hence my interest in your case. I like the ergonomics of Swarovski 8x32 EL tremendously, but for me, the good thing about it is not the length, but rather the narrow barrels with wide gap between them (lots of room for fingers) which allows a wrap-around grip. Consequently, I imagine the CL might be just as good even though it is shorter (though I note that for those who don’t employ their middle finger in focus adjustment, the CL’s wider hinge next to the focuser wouldn’t as easily allow for the middle finger to get a wrap-around grip, as it can with the 8x32 EL).



What? I don’t understand. How do thumb indents provide support? Why are your thumbs dangling, and not curled up under (and perhaps between, under the hinge area) the barrels? The biomechanics of a solid grip for you must be very different from mine. For me, to hold bins so they don’t shake during viewing (and are minimally so perturbed while adjusting the focus), and so I can smoothly pan and be comfortable all day, I just need for them to be surrounded by my hands in a grip that, while solid, is still very relaxed (A firm, muscle-invested grip causes shaking). I think of them as being imbedded, so to speak, in my relaxed hands. With full and 2/3 sized bins, I hold them deeply cupped in my palms with (or at least surrounded by upper palm, web of thumb, base of thumb), and with small bins, sort of within my right fist with my left hand cupped over it. I think I rotate my right hand around to the bottom of the bins more than you do.


I certainly don’t advocate prayer as the solution to this (or other) problems. I’m not sure if it is, by itself, universally a problem. In any case, I suggest replacing the prayer position with a modified “solidarity clasp” (see attached picture). Big bins get interjected between the clasping hands. Little bins go into the fist of one hand, which is then clasped by the other (see attached pics).



I don’t follow. Even though I can get a good grip on a pencil with my comparatively large hands, I wouldn’t be able to hold it steady enough to view through it at 8x (if it had that capability)? I disagree. I can hold monoculars very steady for viewing using a modified “solidarity clasp” as described above. My problems with monoculars are that they don’t provide as much data to the brain (= view detail) as do views using two eyes, and they are generally hard to focus.



Again, I don’t understand the last sentence (about the unsupportive thumb), but otherwise I sympathize and agree with your frustrations about getting a good grip on roofs with a big center hinge and too little barrel extension to allow for finger wrap (and barrels too fat for big thumbs to fit between them). But I don’t think the issue is one of bino size. I have the same problems with most traditional style roofs whatever their size, and especially with the full-sized Leica 8x42 Ultravid because of its very long center hinge with end cap extension. Moreover, I don’t think users with smaller hands are able to get any better a grip, since their fingers run over the top of these bins without being able to grip anything, the same as yours. Some traditional hinge roofs are a little better than others because they have a ridges, or an indent related to the center hinge, that can serve as a grip for the ends of one’s fingers.

I totally agree that bins that allow for a wrap-around grip are best, and though I know they are not universally loved by all users, I think such bins generally work better for folks with small and large hands alike than do traditional style roof models. Some examples of good designs: Zeiss 7x42 Classic, Swarovski EL/SV/CL, Nikon EDG. The Leica 8x32 Ultravid allows me quite a good-wrap around grip. I’d love to see the eye-relief of the equally-short Zeiss FL married to the Leica 8x32 Ultravid body, or else something like a shortened version of the Swarovski 8x32 SV.



I find that when my hand extends beyond the barrel that such overhang causes no problems, nor does it undermine grip stability. The overhanging bit of palm is fleshy material that provides little support (or packing material function) since it also extends beyond the metacarpal bones. If I have a good grip with the thumb side of my palm, that is enough, provided I also use the thumb side of my left hand to support the bin forward of my right hand.



I think I remember Steve Ingraham making this claim about the Nikon SE, and maybe the Swift 820 Audubon as well, but I don’t follow. I have a number of porros, and in comparing them, I don’t find it any more, or less, natural/easy to hold the SE with my elbows down than the others. Actually, I find it easy to hold all manner of porros with my elbows down. Putting the elbows down is a matter of bending the arms downward at the wrist. The action of my wrist is unrelated to my hand grip.

--AP

Alexis,

I'm mystified about your continued befuddlement after my illustrated explanations. I thought they were quite clear.

No doubt some folks with large hands get on well with small bins, but many do not. On this thread the count is even, 3-3. But if I did a survey, I bet the number of big handed birders who find holding small roofs challenging would out number those who have no problem.

I've had to modify some of my bins to fit my hands, but as far as grips, there are only so many ways for me to hold small bins given my hand size and shape, but I'm always open to learning new tricks.

However, as far as answering your questions such as "How do thumb indents provide support?," I'm not sure what to say!

If it's not lens distortion I'm looking at, it appears you have much wider thumbs than I do, so perhaps the usefulness of thumb indents might not seem as obvious to you (they are useless if they don't fit your thumbs or are angled the wrong way for your grip).

I will think about your comments and questions and see if I can formulate some responses, though I'm sure I can explain myself any better than I already have.

Brock
 
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Bryce, I thought you had an older SLC - mine is 10 years older than yours was, what physical difference was there? Any? When did they quit making that model?

Optically, I see differences in sharpness across the view, though the SLC is no slouch. Much less CA with the new SV.

I'm glad I decided on the 10x32 SV instead of the 8x32, as it gives me a better argument in keeping the 8x30 SLC!

John F
John, there were no physical difference slight color shade of armor. There were obvious optical differences but that change was because of coatings. That particular model, yours and the one i sold were done away with the introduction of the Neu Slc's and now with the intro of the cl's apparently Swarovski has went away from the design? Now if they come out with a slc8x30 hd, i will be the first inline to get one but, i don't think it will happen. I for one loved the design of the 8x30 slc! Bryce...
 
My newly rebuilt 1991 8x30 SLC, and brand spank'en new 10x32 SV side by side. Check out the eyecups fully extended on one barrel of each.

The SV is a bit lighter (although a bit longer), and much easier to hold steady. Sure still do like my old SLC's though. Very interesting viewing side by side for things like sharpness, distortions, CA, color rendition, focusing, etc.

John,

Thanks for the photo. If that focus knob is the same as on the 42mm SV, and I think it is, then the 32mm SV is one svelt little bin!

What do you think of the tan armor? I suspect it's a little richer tan than the photo shows?

Also is the inside of the eyecups really silver as it appears to be? I should think black might be better. Wouldn't matter for me since I wear glasses, but...

Mark
 
And??? Don't leave us hanging! :)

I wish I had the technical knowledge of optics to describe what I am looking at though my new 8x32 Swaros, but I am honestly not really sure what Rolling Ball, CA, or any of these terms really mean. I just wanted to get the best Binos around, and not really be worried that I will be getting a better view anywhere else in this form factor. And at least from what I can tell, these are the best 8x32 for m eyes. And, I have Cameraland across the street from my office, so I have tried them all out, and these work the best for me.
 
I wish I had the technical knowledge of optics to describe what I am looking at though my new 8x32 Swaros, but I am honestly not really sure what Rolling Ball, CA, or any of these terms really mean. I just wanted to get the best Binos around, and not really be worried that I will be getting a better view anywhere else in this form factor. And at least from what I can tell, these are the best 8x32 for m eyes. And, I have Cameraland across the street from my office, so I have tried them all out, and these work the best for me.

Great forget the tech stuff and enjoy the views. You have the best. Congrats!
 
John,

Thanks for the photo. If that focus knob is the same as on the 42mm SV, and I think it is, then the 32mm SV is one svelt little bin!

What do you think of the tan armor? I suspect it's a little richer tan than the photo shows?

Also is the inside of the eyecups really silver as it appears to be? I should think black might be better. Wouldn't matter for me since I wear glasses, but...

Mark

Yep, I'm pretty sure the focus knob is the same as the 42's. The armor color is a bit darker than the photo shows, but it still is kind of a pink-ish tan, as the photo shows. It is a desert color, which is why I like it (living in the desert.)

The inside of the eyecups are indeed unfinished aluminum. I've sent an email to Swarovski about this, although it is not a big deal, it would have been nicer had they been black anodized. I'm going to remove the rubber, and give the inside a spray of rattle-can flat black if Swaro gives me the go ahead.

John F
 
I wish I had the technical knowledge of optics to describe what I am looking at though my new 8x32 Swaros, but I am honestly not really sure what Rolling Ball, CA, or any of these terms really mean. I just wanted to get the best Binos around, and not really be worried that I will be getting a better view anywhere else in this form factor. And at least from what I can tell, these are the best 8x32 for m eyes. And, I have Cameraland across the street from my office, so I have tried them all out, and these work the best for me.

Good thing i don't have Cameraland or anything close to that across any street from me! Whew, that wouldn't be good! B :)
 
Yep, I'm pretty sure the focus knob is the same as the 42's. The armor color is a bit darker than the photo shows, but it still is kind of a pink-ish tan, as the photo shows. It is a desert color, which is why I like it (living in the desert.)

The inside of the eyecups are indeed unfinished aluminum. I've sent an email to Swarovski about this, although it is not a big deal, it would have been nicer had they been black anodized. I'm going to remove the rubber, and give the inside a spray of rattle-can flat black if Swaro gives me the go ahead.

John F

My guess is they'd send you a set of black eyecups from the green version, maybe free of charge.

I like the tan "Traveler" but I'm not sold on the silver bits.

M
 
Bob,

How I hold the 12x50 SE is similar but instead of placing my left hand near the end of the left barrel, I place my right hand there in a cross-handed grip.

This puts my right wrist and forearm under the right barrel for support (or as on CN member called it, a "human tripod"). And then I hold the prism housings of the left barrel as I would the 8x and 10x SE.

There was a good illustration of this grip and some others on Cloudy Nights, but I can no longer find that photo series. Must be archived.

Besides being more challenging to hold steady because of the higher magnification, the 12x SE model has a different balance point than the 8x and 10x model due to it being slightly front heavy.

The other two models allow me to keep my palms completely on the prism housing. However, if I am to keep a normal grip with the 12x SE, I have to move my hands slightly forward onto the barrels because the balance point with the 12x SE is near the seam btwn the barrels and the housings. The balance point on the 8x and 10x models is on the prism housing.

The cross grip works also well for astronomy, although it can be fatiguing to keep your arm extended for a long time.

Having the weight shifted back on my face while lying in a reclining lawn chair makes the 12x50 SE easier to hold steady than for daytime use even though shakes are more noticeable on the stars than they are on birds.

I hold the 12x SE as I would the 8x and 10x, but shift my thumbs backward under the prism housings, as some people do with roofs for birding, and I grip the visor of my hat against the prism housings for extra steadiness.

Brock

Thanks, I'm going to give that a try. I'll probably take it with me to Cape may this weekend and can try it out on the big deck there at the point. I wonder if it might be better for me if I brace it on my left wrist and forearm?

Bob
 
Thanks, I'm going to give that a try. I'll probably take it with me to Cape may this weekend and can try it out on the big deck there at the point. I wonder if it might be better for me if I brace it on my left wrist and forearm?

Bob

Have fun in cape may. I was there last weekend saw a nice kettle of broad wings and red shoulders maygration
 
No doubt some folks with large hands get on well with small bins, but many do not. On this thread the count is even, 3-3. But if I did a survey, I bet the number of big handed birders who find holding small roofs challenging would out number those who have no problem.

Fair enough. Details aside, I think you and I are looking for many of the same improvements in bino ergonomics (esp. w/respect to merits of wrap-around grip), it's just that I think they will benefit (almost) everyone. My befuddlement isn't limited to your particular situation. I'm equally confused by, for example, how having small hands would help a person hold a typical traditional style (long central hinge/bridge) 8x32 roof any better than can a person with large hands. I don't think such bins work well for anyone, because most fingers do little for support (they simply lie passively across the top of the hinge) regardless of hand size.

--AP
 
Thanks, I'm going to give that a try. I'll probably take it with me to Cape may this weekend and can try it out on the big deck there at the point. I wonder if it might be better for me if I brace it on my left wrist and forearm?

Bob

Whichever gives you the steadiest view. My right arm is stronger, which is why I use that it for the cross-over grip.

B.
 
Fair enough. Details aside, I think you and I are looking for many of the same improvements in bino ergonomics (esp. w/respect to merits of wrap-around grip), it's just that I think they will benefit (almost) everyone. My befuddlement isn't limited to your particular situation. I'm equally confused by, for example, how having small hands would help a person hold a typical traditional style (long central hinge/bridge) 8x32 roof any better than can a person with large hands. I don't think such bins work well for anyone, because most fingers do little for support (they simply lie passively across the top of the hinge) regardless of hand size.

--AP

AP,

Regarding your statement that "I don't think such bins work well for anyone"(i.e., closed bridge roofs), as a big handed birder, I think that too, and it's one reason why I prefer porros to most roofs, but that's obviously not the case for many people, or roofs wouldn't be as popular as they are.

It's not just the waterproofing that make them popular, it's their compact size and the fact that they allow birders to keep their arms in an "elbow's down" position, which for extended use is less fatiguing.

Smaller hands are also narrower, so I can understand why the narrow width of roofs presents less of a problem for small and medium sized hands. I'll illustrate this with my attachments.

I'm sure roof fans could chime in here with more amplification on my why they prefer them to porros besides their WPing.

But first I wanted to say that your photos were of you holding a compact bin, which is a homunculus of a different color. Unlike midsized roofs, compact roof designs provide ample room underneath for thumb support with their wide, flat bridges. However, I suspect you opened the IPD wider than your actual IPD to fit both your large thumbs side by side underneath.

My main issue with compact roofs is they are too lightweight to dampen vibrations. I need at least 20 oz. to keep an 8x image steady, because I have "essential tremors".

With closed bridge midsized roofs, I can't fit both thumbs side by side underneath the barrels, because unlike compacts they don't have wide and flat bridges underneath to support my thumbs.

Since there's not enough room, I have to stagger my thumbs one in front of the other to get them both under the barrels, which make them useless for supporting the bin's weight, because I can't get a good grip with the sides of tops my thumbs. Folding my thumbs underneath is also not very comfortable.

Hopefully, I can end your befuddlement over this and other perplexing issues regarding the "big hand/little bin problem" with these comparative illustrations.

Here's a woman with smaller hands than I holding a roof bin. Looks like a full sized bin, not midsized, but it illustrates my point of how her smaller hands enable her grip the bin by supporting the underside of the barrels with her thumbs and at the same time, grip the top and sides of the bin with a good portion of her hand (palm at the sides of the barrels and fingers on top of the barrels/bridge).

Contrast that to my photo where the weight is supported with the narrow band of flesh between my index knuckle and thumb knuckle and the tips of my fingers.

Her smaller hands have a lot of contact points to support the bin from the bottom, side and top with her thumbs, palms, and all the phalanges (word of the month) of her fingers.

For me to support the underside of the barrels with the last digit of my thumb like she does, my palms could not be touching the bin because I'd have to reposition my hand out to the side to get my thumb out from underneath the barrels. Then, like her, I'd have more phalanges on the top of the bin and thumb support underneath but now my palms would be dangling in the air.

I could get away this all finger grip with a compact roof (albeit with shaky images), but I can't support a 20-30 oz. roof (SLC/GR HD) with just my fingers.

I hope that finally puts your questions to rest.

Thanks for being a good sport about our disagreement (or perhaps misunderstanding).

It's refreshing to disagree politely rather than vehemently as some others do on these forums.

BP
 

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Hey, I thought we were arguing over how many angels could dance on the head of a pin!

Brock's answer: depends on how you hold the pin!

This must be the most bipolar thread in the history of BF. Ah well, what do I care. Brock has OCD: Optics Compulsive Disorder. Some of us obsess over how to hold a binocular; some of us go look at the warblers. I'm hearing Blackpolls all over the place! I know where I'll be.

M
 
John,

Thanks for the photo. If that focus knob is the same as on the 42mm SV, and I think it is, then the 32mm SV is one svelt little bin!

What do you think of the tan armor? I suspect it's a little richer tan than the photo shows?

Also is the inside of the eyecups really silver as it appears to be? I should think black might be better. Wouldn't matter for me since I wear glasses, but...

Mark

I've been trying to find a problem with the satin finish aluminum eye cup interiors, and I can't. In, part way, all the way out, sun at my back, to the side, to the front - I cannot see any brightness or shineyness at all. It must be some magical Swarovski design or material. <g> I'm expecting to to find a problem, and can't, so I guess that is OK.

And, damn it, the focus knob operation seems to have improved to the point I can't feel any issue - and I don't think it is just me getting used to it as I'm operating the SLC's half the time as well.

John F
 
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...but that's obviously not the case for many people, or roofs wouldn't be as popular as they are. It's not just the waterproofing that make them popular, it's their compact size and the fact that they allow birders to keep their arms in an "elbow's down" position, which for extended use is less fatiguing.

I think most people are just not as concerned/aware of the grip/stability issues as we are, so they buy roofs for the other reasons you give and just live in blissful ignorance with (or disinterested tolerance of) the deficiencies. I'm a big fan of roofs myself (for reasons of size, hang, field overlap at close butterfly focus, quick focus in the cold), and I can hold any of them steadily enough for any use, but I still appreciate designs that make it easy to apply a good grip.

...I suspect you opened the IPD wider than your actual IPD to fit both your large thumbs side by side underneath.

No, they are adjusted in the photo to my IPD of 61mm (which is actually fairly narrow).

With closed bridge midsized roofs, I can't fit both thumbs side by side underneath the barrels, because unlike compacts they don't have wide and flat bridges underneath to support my thumbs. Since there's not enough room, I have to stagger my thumbs one in front of the other to get them both under the barrels, which make them useless for supporting the bin's weight, because I can't get a good grip with the sides of tops my thumbs. Folding my thumbs underneath is also not very comfortable.

Here's an area where our preferences differ, because I actually prefer to put one hand in front of the other (one reason why I do enjoy long bins like the Swarovski EL/SV models or Zeiss 7x42 Classic for most birding, even if not for travel/hiking) and I get plenty of purchase when my thumbs can grip the inside of the barrel and not just have the bin resting on top of them. Consequently, 8x32 bins with ample room between the barrels (e.g. Leica 8x32 BN/Ultravid) work almost as well for me as open-bridge designs from the thumb side. Their deficiency lies in the difficulty to get a good grip with the fingers over the top.

Here's a woman with smaller hands than I holding a roof bin. Looks like a full sized bin, not midsized, but it illustrates my point of how her smaller hands enable her grip the bin by supporting the underside of the barrels with her thumbs and at the same time, grip the top and sides of the bin with a good portion of her hand (palm at the sides of the barrels and fingers on top of the barrels/bridge).

Contrast that to my photo where the weight is supported with the narrow band of flesh between my index knuckle and thumb knuckle and the tips of my fingers.

Her smaller hands have a lot of contact points to support the bin from the bottom, side and top with her thumbs, palms, and all the phalanges (word of the month) of her fingers.

For me to support the underside of the barrels with the last digit of my thumb like she does, my palms could not be touching the bin because I'd have to reposition my hand out to the side to get my thumb out from underneath the barrels. Then, like her, I'd have more phalanges on the top of the bin and thumb support underneath but now my palms would be dangling in the air.

I could get away this all finger grip with a compact roof (albeit with shaky images), but I can't support a 20-30 oz. roof (SLC/GR HD) with just my fingers.

Hmm...to my way of thinking, the small-handed woman doesn't have a particularly good grip. It seems very close to the shaky finger tip grip that you describe. I don't see that her palms are really making contact, and I think she is supporting the bin with too much participation of finger-actuating musculature. I doubt her index finger is reaching the focus knob very well, and there's no way she can really crank on it with that hand position. I remain unconvinced that small-handed birders get on better with these bins. I've not mentioned it before, but I have two kids, 8 and 11, and they are very capable with bins, but I've never seen them to have any advantages. Small hands = short fingers almost always make it difficult to get a good grip with the hand involved in focusing.

Thanks for being a good sport about our disagreement (or perhaps misunderstanding). It's refreshing to disagree politely rather than vehemently as some others do on these forums.

Goodness gracious, you're welcome, but no thanks are necessary. In my mind it's all a recreational romp. The point of these sort of narrow-interest enthusiast forums is to provide a safe and supportive space for us to enjoy picking at nits that matter very little to most human concerns in the grand scheme of things. I don't understand folks who lose sight of how privileged we are to live in a world that allows for such narrow cultural spaces, or of how important the things we obsess over here are (i.e. not very) in the big picture. But I'm not too bothered by stridency and abrasive forms of communication, so long as the participants are genuinely engaged in the discussion. Communication styles differ a lot and are too easily misinterpreted. I am perpetually optimistic about most peoples' underlying intentions, and I always presume good will.

best wishes,

Alexis
 
M what part of PA? Spent the morning at Lock 12 along the Susquehanna watching/listening to dueling Cerulean Warblers. Mighty Singers they are!!!!

Red Headed Woodpecker real highlight for me - very unexpected given the forest near the river. I think someone should do a book- trees and habitat for birders.

I am a little scared to comment on Swarovski bins having used the 8.5x42 since they came out. I find them almost perfect. I doubt I will ever buy another pair of bins. I bird forest and edge in the Northeast US. Panning for warblers with anything but your eyes is too me a waste of time. Why I do pan it is usually with my scope. Just me.

Mike
 
M what part of PA? Spent the morning at Lock 12 along the Susquehanna watching/listening to dueling Cerulean Warblers. Mighty Singers they are!!!!

Red Headed Woodpecker real highlight for me - very unexpected given the forest near the river. I think someone should do a book- trees and habitat for birders.

I am a little scared to comment on Swarovski bins having used the 8.5x42 since they came out. I find them almost perfect. I doubt I will ever buy another pair of bins. I bird forest and edge in the Northeast US. Panning for warblers with anything but your eyes is too me a waste of time. Why I do pan it is usually with my scope. Just me.

Mike

Mike the swaro is fantastic glass. My review might seem critical, but for the price i was extra critical. The swarovision is arguably the best glass out there. Regular models are great as well. Enjoy.
 
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