Birding San Gerado de Dota Without a Vehicle (1 Viewer)

[Les Shulman]

Bryan,

Your painting of the Sulphur-winged parakeets is wonderful.
Thanks for the advice about the guavas and apples.

I checked some more on the barred parakeets and it looks like they occur most frequently up by Paraiso Quetzal (more so than lower in the valley near Savegre), sometimes in decent numbers in flybys.
Speaking of barred, perhaps I'll be fortunate and get to see a barred becard while at Paraiso also.

After the trip, I will provide a report on birds, the accommodations, and the food on this forum.

 

[BryanP]

Les,
Cheers and thanks,
Good to know about where to find the Barred Parakeets, thanks for that.

I think you stand a decent chance of a Barred Becard. I've seen them in mixed flocks but to be honest I'm not sure about the existence of mixed flocks during nesting season, perhaps they still occur. The Becards are singular and not a regular sighting if that makes any sense.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Les Shulman]

Hi,

I might have a change in plans regarding San Gerardo de Dota as far as going in 2021.
I was planning on going to Boston this May to visit my brother but his health may be jeopardized due to the coronavirus pandemic if I stayed with him as his immune system is severely weakened as a result of a chronic condition.

So, what I'd like to know is if anyone has experience birding in San Gerado during the rainy season, specifically May. Like typically (?) when does it rain, how much/how often, and what condition are the roads and trails in?

Thanks,
Les

 

[BryanP]

Hi,

I might have a change in plans regarding San Gerardo de Dota as far as going in 2021.
I was planning on going to Boston this May to visit my brother but his health may be jeopardized due to the coronavirus pandemic if I stayed with him as his immune system is severely weakened as a result of a chronic condition.

So, what I'd like to know is if anyone has experience birding in San Gerado during the rainy season, specifically May. Like typically (?) when does it rain, how much/how often, and what condition are the roads and trails in?

Thanks,
Les

Hi Les,
Sorry to hear about your brother, I hope things work out well for you both.

I've birded San Gerado fairly often from May through to November. May can be transitional for rain. I've seen the trails dry for days at a time and at other times a soggy mess. Afternoons are often more likely for rain so best be set up for mud and rain just in case, wellies, umbrellas etc. It can also get cooler too but then sometimes not. Like I said transitional.

All the usual native species are there minus the NA migrants so other than those you have a good shot at the birds.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Les Shulman]

Thanks Bryan,

Due to covid-19 and Costa Rica responsibly shutting down its border, my May plan is out the window.

So, I've decided to stick with my March 2021 plans (of course, depending on where the pandemic is at then) with some changes.

I will be spending 10 nights in San Gerardo de Dota at Miriam's and then head off for another 10 nights not so far way at Talari Mountain Lodge outside of San Isidro El General as many species of birds occur there that I'd love to experience over and over like fiery-billed aracaris, fork-tailed flycatchers, olivaceous piculets, speckled and gray-headed tanagers, pearl kites, yellow-headed caracaras and turquoise cotingas.

Take care,
Les

 

[BryanP]

Hey Les,
Wise move me thinks. We are stuck here in CR for longer then our original end of April leave date which is not a hardship. The CR Government has extended foreigners visas into late May. After that they will see how things work out.

I know Talari lodge as its not too far away from where we live. There is some decent birding along the river and their trails are good for a variety of forest birds. I don't think you will have any problems finding Aracaris. I've seen them right in the middle of town so they are fairly climatized to human presence. The other species you mention are generally regulars in the valley, even the Cotingas have been known to be everywhere. Speckled and Grey-headed Tanagers are regular visitors at our feeder.

You could grab a cab up to Los Cosingos which was Alexander Skutch old homestead. There is also La Quebradas biological reserve which has Ochre-breasted Antipittas, Zelodons Antbirds and Black-breasted Wood Quail which would be a nice endemic to see. Virtually any bog standard country road in the valley has got great birds, Barred Antshrikes, Pale-breasted Spinytails, Orange-collared, White-ruffed and Blue-crowned Manakins. If you're lucky maybe Red-crowned Ant Tanagers, ask around for those guys, they're very territorial.

You can also get up to Cloud Bridge which is at the trail head of the Chirripo trail. The Cloud bridge restaurant has a ton of White-crested Coquettes in their garden along with Garden emeralds and such. The food is good there as well, nice place to hang out.
The San Isidro el Generale valley is a underrated area for birding for sure.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Les Shulman]

Thanks Bryan for all the feedback regarding Talari and San Isidro el General.

Since I've been even more bored than usual I had been toying around with idea of going to Hacienda Baru near Dominical or Rancho Nauralista instead.

However, I've come to my senses (permanently I hope) and combining Miriam's/San Gerardo de Dota with Talari and environs makes much more sense birding-wise since I should be able to experience many of the species there which I really want to see including many more regional endemics. Plus I can do 20 days combined at those two sites more economically than at HB or RN for "only" 14 nights.

In your area do you ever see golden-naped woodpeckers in April as I believe they occur at Talari rarely?

Take care and saludos,
Les

 

[BryanP]

Hey Les
I liked Hacienda Baru but was only there once for a couple of days. I did see the Mangrove Cuckoo so theres that.
You could catch a 1 1/2 hour bus down to the coast from San Isidro and stay for a couple nights for the lowland Pacific coast birds but I think your simpler cleaner plan is the way to go.

As far a Rancho Naturlista goes I liked the place and the Snowcaps are as regular as clockwork but there are less known equally nice places in the area.
There is a small property just outside of Brauillo Carrillo eastern entrance where for a small consideration the farmer/Landowner will let you wander around his garden for hummingbirds with the Snowcap being common but for this you would need a car, Uber or taxi.

Talari lodge is what I’d describe as an adequate place to stay. The restaurant is much better now. The owner is a very nice man but his focus of what the lodge should be are at times muddled.
The few times I or friends have stayed there we’ve always just used it as a base to visit other parts of the valley. In and of itself its not what I’d call a birding destination for someone who has spent a lot of money and miles to visit Costa Rica.
Advantages, the river, trails and grounds are ok if a little unkempt and the lodge is only 15 minutes from town.
I asked Noel Ureña who is one of the top birding guide/companies in the country and he suggests these guys, https://www.talamancanaturereserve.com/about.html he used to install his guests at Talari but is now using Talamncan Lodge instead. They have 4000 acres with trails and waterfalls
Advantages are it would be a great destination where you could spend the whole day in their property looking for speciality birds. The area is beautiful and I’d bet you’d have the trails to yourself.
Disadvantages are its further from town but on the same road as Talari, about a half hour drive up. It would be easy to Uber from there to Los Cosingos or La Quebradas reserve.
I confess I’ve never stayed there but I’m now officially tempted.

Since Uber is heavily used all over the country and the Uber drivers (and their vehicles) are excellent any location snags are a non issue. Carey’s nephew travelled all over the country last year on Uber and loved it.
Carey also plans our trips in country and Carey being Carey is very organized about it. She recommends this website https://www.rome2rio.com for travelling in CR, its how we get around when we aren’t going the Uber route. The buses in country are generally modern and frequent. We usually catch the Musoc Bus when travelling between downtown San Jose and Perez Zeledon (San Isidro el Generale)

If you buy a chip at one of the many “Phone stores” in town or San Jose and assuming its unlocked you can take advantage of the excellent Uber/cab service. A chip is around 2 dollars and with 10 dollars worth of minutes you’d be set. Every corner store sells minutes and I highly recommend going the phone chip thing. Costa Rica has their shit together when it comes to cellphone service not to mention the usually excellent, cheap and plentiful internet.

The golden-napped occurs here in the valley, I asked Noel if I’ve ever encountered one as he remembers every species I’ve seen and he says I have 😉 I only wish I could remember and since it was before I was keeping lists I guess I’ll have to see it again 😁
Cheers and stay safe,
Bryan
Ps. To whet your appetite here are a few shots of various bog standard country roads in the valley.

 

[Les Shulman]

Thanks again Bryan for all of the information and pictures.

I'll probably be following through on Miriam's and Talari but I have just contacted Talamanca Nature Reserve for information as their site looks fantastic, albeit pretty pricey with I believe (?) no meals included.

The way I do repetitive birding, Talari hoping to see certain species multiple times, I'd probably be a happy camper at Talari plus the owner gave me a superb price.

The special for me birds I'd hope to see there would include: scaled pigeons, lesser swallow tailed swifts, pearl kite, white-crested croquettes, snowy-bellied hummingbirds, Lesson's Motmot, fiery-billed aracari's (an absolute must see), olivaceous piculets, yellow-headed caracaras, orange-collared manakns, turquoise cotingas one good look at a male would be super), fork-tailed flycatchers (another must experience), scarlet tanagers (since I won't be seeing them in Maine this May, thanks to Covid-19), and gray-headed and speckled tanagers.

When I hear back from Talamanca I'll give you feedback.

A ways back I had explored staying at El Copal instead of Ranch Naturalista, but I was dealing with their contact people and the owners would not budge on 50% upfront through a bank transfer which I couldn't agree to.

I'm a real dinosaur and refuse to use cell phones so Uber is not doable but thanks for all that great info.

Saludos y cuidate,
Les

 

[BryanP]

Les,
No worries, you’ll do fine at Talari. You can spend each morning just birding the grounds (They aren’t extensive though) and find most on your list. Walking up to the main road you might see a few things but wouldn’t hold out for too much on the main road itself, pretty busy and developed so you will have to do a bit of hoofing or catch a cab to get to some good country roads. About a ten minute drive further up is a farmers field which is usually good for fork-tailed Flycatchers and Meadowlarks of all things.
If Talari sent you a bird list you can be sure the birds have been seen there as it was Noel who gathered and compiled that list for them, as I recall.

I’ll be interested to hear what Talamancan lodge has to say in reply. It would be surprising if a meal isn’t included. In my experience that would be a first in that higher priced bracket.

All the birds you listed are all over the valley. Virtually any country road here will yield up something from that list. A mere 5 minute walk away from us is a spot that has all 3 local Manakin species so they can be pretty findable. Aracari can also be found everywhere. Scaled Pigeons are singular and tend to prefer quieter less populated country roads further up the valley sides.
White crested Coquettes are not common but present. Cloud bridge Cafe is the best place for them and other specialty Hummingbirds.
Speckled Tanagers are usually in pairs and accompany mixed flocks. In fact a pair just showed up at our feeder 5 minutes ago so they’re out there. Gray-headed Tanagers are singular and seem to prefer dense forest edges although there is a pair showing up here in the garden lately. Summer Tanagers are common and the nice things about those guys is the males keep their bright red colouring all winter.
Swallow-tailed Swifts? I’ll have to ask round, I’ve seen them at the higher elevations but thats probably anecdotal.
Anyway there ya go, some free advice, I’m sure you’ll have fun.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Les Shulman]

Hi Bryan and all,

I just heard back from Talamanca Nature Retreat.
It took a few days because they are closed due the covid-19 Costa Rican restrictions.

Their least expensive lodging per cabin or room is $140 per night plus tax. Meals are not typically included.
Since I was talking about staying 10 nights as long as I paid in cash the GM would have included breakfast.

I had asked if they had a bird list but did not hear back on that and I also wrote to Noel's company, Tropical Feathers, for a list but have not yet received a reply.
On ebird San Gerardo de Rivas is listed as a "Hot Spot." Do you think that would be representative of the birds at Talamanca as it seems the elevation is equivalent?

At Talari, I'd be paying significantly less than 50% of that with taxes, breakfast and dinner included.
I'm still heavily leaning on staying there.

One reason Talari appeals to me is that it is said to be "fun and easy birding.'' I would miss out seeking ant things, though.

As mentioned before on their property (around 2 kilometers of mixed terrain trails) there are a plethora of birds I really want to experience, most of which are of the fairly common variety.

Bryan, thanks for mentioning about the road(s) closest to the lodge.
In terms of time, how much hoofing would one have to do to get to
good country roads or fields? Because somehow I have to figure out on a daily basis how to get in 8 or so hours of productive birding/hiking. In the early mornings and late afternoons, as indicated by non-professional listings on ebird, I think I would be a real happy camper on the Talari property.

Saludos y cuidate,
Les

 

[BryanP]

Hi Les,
You'll do fine at Talari and they're right it is easy birding. As mentioned the river is handy and yields up additional species such as the River-side Wren.
The rooms are very basic but there are birds to see just sitting on the porch or up at the restaurant.
We installed visiting friends there last year but I don't have any current knowledge on what its like now.
The owner does jump around from trying to be a spa to a tennis camp to a birding destination. I don't know what phase he is at now or will be next year, doesn't matter as the birds are still there.

I think I mentioned Noel put together a list for Talari but that was over 10 years ago so with all the changes here it may be out of date. You might try asking Talari for their list.

I'm really surprised Talamanca Lodge doesn't include at least one meal for that price.

Looking at satellite images of the area there are actually a few country roads just up from Talari which might be ok. I haven't been on any of them so can't say. You could give it a go.

The Rivas road is fast and busy and there are generally no sidewalks in Costa Rica so you walk on the road. Having said that everyone drives, buses, walks, bikes and rides horses on the roads here and all at the same time. No one gets mad and everyone is happy to share. North Americans have a tough time with the easy going attitude it but they get used to it.

On the satellite map I include you can see Tallari Lodge roughly in the middle with Quebradas reserve in the upper left quadrant and Skutch's Los Cosingos in the lower right quadrant. Rivas is further up the road from Talari Lodge.
Quebradas reserve (closed Mondays) is about 6 US to get in and Los Cosingos is around 25 US, I've seen great speciality birds at both locations.
Catch a cab up to Rivas (at the top of the same map) and from there walk further up the road to the Chirripo trail head. Excellent birding all along there and on any of the side roads, beautiful place.
While up there you could visit the Garden House Observatory Restaurant for the large variety of hummingbird species, one of my favourite places in Costa Rica.

Everyone in the valley (and Savegre) just get birdwatchers and often a farmer or property owner will invite us onto their property to see a specialty or to just have a look around. Plus if you do run into any local birders they are often Costa Ricans (Ticos) in their 20's or 30's. Tag along with them if you can, they are often brilliant birding by ear birders.

Plenty of everything you're looking for well within easy reach of your base so I think you'll be good to go.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Andy Adcock]

Hey Les

As far a Rancho Naturlista goes I liked the place and the Snowcaps are as regular as clockwork but there are less known equally nice places in the area.
There is a small property just outside of Brauillo Carrillo eastern entrance where for a small consideration the farmer/Landowner will let you wander around his garden for hummingbirds with the Snowcap being common but for this you would need a car, Uber or taxi.


If you buy a chip at one of the many “Phone stores” in town or San Jose and assuming its unlocked you can take advantage of the excellent Uber/cab service. A chip is around 2 dollars and with 10 dollars worth of minutes you’d be set. Every corner store sells minutes and I highly recommend going the phone chip thing. Costa Rica has their shit together when it comes to cellphone service not to mention the usually excellent, cheap and plentiful internet.


Bryan
Ps. To whet your appetite here are a few shots of various bog standard country roads in the valley.

The site mentioned above is El Tapir which apart from Snowcap, also has Black-crested Coquette and a small trail system. The road here was the worst we had to negotiate in CR with all the heavy trucks going to the port at Limon. The first time we headed to Brauillo Carillio, we actually turned back having achived just 10k (c6m) in an hour.

El Tapir is easily missed, it's sits off the main road behind a farm type gate on a broad grass verge. It's sometimes not open, the first time we went, the gate was closed but we naughtily, climbed over the gate. The next day we went and the guy was and we paid what was owed.

Phones in CR, on arrival we bought a local sim card but despite the best efforts of the store owner who called the operator to register (obligatory and complicated with various addresses and passport number required) it for us, we could not get it to work at all and gave up.

 

[BryanP]

Thanks Andy,
Didn't know El Tapir was the name of the place.
That Limón highway is worse now since the road construction to widen it to 4 lanes started. I asked a local who uses that highway often if they were going to “widen” the tunnel as well but apparently not. I hope that isn't true because the bottle neck in the mountain pass will be epic.

We catch the Caribbe shuttle to Bocas Del Toro, Panama every 3 months for the visa refresh (or did till the lockdown) and the trip on that highway from San Jose to the Panama border usually takes about 5 hours. Last time it took 12 so epic.
We had one phone where the same problem occurred so asked the nice man to switch carriers which seemed to fix the problem, not sure what was wrong, anecdotal I know but there ya go. Burner phones are dirt cheap here and I've known some travellers go that route.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Les Shulman]

Hi Bryan and all,

I'm committed to doing a split trip to both San Gerardos.

Thanks for the heads up about birding the side roads of Rivas.

To give myself another option for those locales I contacted Noel's sister at Tropical Feathers and gave her a budget to see if they could come up with a proposal for a private trip with 5 days in de Dota and 5 days in El General. I should be hearing back early next week. For personal reasons (the happiness and emotional well being of our three perritas/dogs who even though my wife is great with them perpetually sulk when I'm away) I might (???) consider a 10 day private guided trip as opposed to a 20 day on my own one. Each of those options definitely have their pluses and minuses but I don't think I can go wrong either way.

Three years ago when I was doing an extended stay at Chilamate Rainforest Eco-Retreat in Sarapiqui I met a delightful and enthusiastic 17 year old Tico on a bicycle who was birding at a field next to a stream. In an instant he pointed out a green ibis to me. Then he took me to a nearby small lagoon, which I never would have found on my own, where there was a nesting colony of boat-billed herons plus a plethora of great birds and all sorts of lizards. He was fantastic at birding by ear. About a year later after he graduated from high school he realized his life's dream of becoming a professional bird guide as he is now affiliated with a company in CR.

Saludos y cuidate,
Les

Yup, I'm good to go as long as Covid-19 is good to be gone by then.

 

[BryanP]

Hi Les,

That sounds like a good plan too.
In 2007 I had contacted. Richard Garrigues to ask if he could guide us but he was unable to as his new ‘Birds of Costa Rica’ field guide was just about to be published. He suggested I contact Noel as he felt Noel was one of the top birding guide in Costa Rica.
That recommendation was good enough for me so I contacted Noel. It was again short notice but he (and Beatrice) got us into lodges and arranged transportation for the days Noel wasn’t available due to his previous guiding commitments. I trust their arrangements utterly.
I’m glad Beatrice is looking after you and I’d be surprised if she can’t help you. She is scary organized and is amazing for wheeling and dealing nice packages for folks. Last year she managed to get both us and our visiting guest into a popular lodge at very short notice in high season, you’re in good hands.
For the record I have no financial interest with Noels guiding business.


Your experience with the young Tico echos mine. The country is blessed with many of his ilk. I remember hiking up to El Pastico route for the La Selva Christmas bird count (CBC) 2 years ago. We were in company with a group of young Ticos who were going to count the Rava Ares route. Those kids knew the scientific names of not just birds but reptiles, insects and plants. I was in awe of their knowledge never mind their finely tuned ears.
Last CBC at La Selva one of our route team members was a young woman who loved birding so much she would do as many as 10 CBC’s per year, consistent with jiving dates of course. The counts here are largely populated with these young, knowledgable and passionate birders. I have noticed that this is a normal state of affairs both here in Costa Rica, Panama and especially Columbia.
Its one of the reason I love doing CBC’s in Central America.

Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Birdingcraft]

The site mentioned above is El Tapir which apart from Snowcap, also has Black-crested Coquette and a small trail system. The road here was the worst we had to negotiate in CR with all the heavy trucks going to the port at Limon. The first time we headed to Brauillo Carillio, we actually turned back having achived just 10k (c6m) in an hour.

El Tapir is easily missed, it's sits off the main road behind a farm type gate on a broad grass verge. It's sometimes not open, the first time we went, the gate was closed but we naughtily, climbed over the gate. The next day we went and the guy was and we paid what was owed.

Phones in CR, on arrival we bought a local sim card but despite the best efforts of the store owner who called the operator to register (obligatory and complicated with various addresses and passport number required) it for us, we could not get it to work at all and gave up.

Just a note that for the moment, El Tapir seems to not be as accessible. The place, or at least rights to the place were recently purchased by a local involved with ornithological projects. Some small construction has taken place as have plantings in the garden and a tall metal gate was put into place. I have heard of a few groups going there but I think they were able to do so because they have contact/perhaps some arrangement with the new owner.
Hopefully, in the months to come, we will get a better idea about the access situation for El Tapir.

 

[BryanP]

Just a note that for the moment, El Tapir seems to not be as accessible. The place, or at least rights to the place were recently purchased by a local involved with ornithological projects. Some small construction has taken place as have plantings in the garden and a tall metal gate was put into place. I have heard of a few groups going there but I think they were able to do so because they have contact/perhaps some arrangement with the new owner.
Hopefully, in the months to come, we will get a better idea about the access situation for El Tapir.

Thanks for that info Patrick, been a few years since we’ve been by there.
I wonder what the new owners plans are. If they are of a ornithological bent then perhaps the property will still be accessible at some point.
Eyes peeled and ears to the ground I guess.
Cheers,
Bryan

 

[Andy Adcock]

Thanks for that info Patrick, been a few years since we’ve been by there.
I wonder what the new owners plans are. If they are of a ornithological bent then perhaps the property will still be accessible at some point.
Eyes peeled and ears to the ground I guess.
Cheers,
Bryan

There isn't a residence ther that I'm aware of so what will the do with it I wonder?

A nice B+B, convenient for Braulio Carillo would be good!

 

[BryanP]

There isn't a residence ther that I'm aware of so what will the do with it I wonder?

A nice B+B, convenient for Braulio Carillo would be good!

When we were there several years ago as I recall there was a little Tico house where I'm told the caretaker occasionally stayed. It may have been pulled down since.
You're right Andy that it would be a nice property for a small lodge or B&B but might be so popular that bookings would be full. I'm guessing that every birding tour company in the country would be vying for rooms there.
A little cafe would be icing on the cake.
Cheers,
Bryan