Canon 10x42 L IS cover scraping away - advice? (1 Viewer)

[abirdingguy]

Several months ago, I bought a scarcely used 10x42 L IS. I've been very happy with the views, especially with the image stabilizer engaged.

However I'm having a minor problem and wondering if anyone has any advice or experienced a similar issue: Parts of the "rubber" coating (not sure what the material actually is) is wearing off leaving exposed metal. This is occurring at several different places around the unit. It is most pronounced around where I have attached "cloth" straps (again not sure of the actual material) through the connection loops. However similar wear also appears elsewhere.

My biggest concern is that the metal body will degrade over time when exposed to the atmosphere and the elements. Is this a signficant concern? Are there any best practices to ameliorate this? Has anyone else experienced this?

 

[Binastro]

Perhaps the binocular has had a lot of use.

Or some chemical has worn away the covering.

Photos would be useful.

One could cover the exposed areas with leatherette.
It won't look nice but would cover up metal parts.

Regards,
B.

 

[abirdingguy]

Here is the most egregious example. I haven't had the binoculars more than 6 months, so I'm surprised to see them wear down so quickly. (Ignore the white squiggles as these are fibers from a white cloth that I recently wiped down the binocular body with.) The numbers on the bottom of the ruler in the photo are in cm.

Do you think that black electrical tape would provide sufficient protection against corrosion?

 

[Binastro]

My computer is playing up, so I haven't seen your photo enlarged.

I haven't had this problem with any of my Canon IS binoculars.

I think that yes, waterproof tape is good enough, applied on a day with low relative humidity.

I am not sure how much the rubberised cover contributes to the waterproofness of the binocular.

So.
a) Use binocular as is.

b) Tape up worn areas and then use.

c).Have Canon replace the complete cover, but this might be hundreds of pounds, and with a full service £500.

Although some on the forum buy secondhand IS binoculars, I don't unless the price is 10% or 20% of the new price.
IS binoculars are complex and have short warranty periods.
I don't know if the warranties are transferable.

Regards,
B.

 

[Binastro]

O.K. I see the photo enlarged and very enlarged.

Is there any metal actually showing, or is it just the rubber scrubbed away?

If there is no metal actually showing then tape should provide protection.

If some metal is showing one has to more carefully cover the metal areas.

B.

 

[abirdingguy]

As far as I can tell, there is nothing between the rubber and the metal. Therefore the silver in the picture is exposed metal. Do you have any suggestions as to what could be used to coat the metal? I'm not sure if electrical tape is sufficient.

 

[Binastro]

Sorry, I am not a chemist.

Firstly one has to know what the metal is.

Perhaps aluminium or magnesium.
I suppose aluminium oxide or magnesium oxide forms.

The Vinten F95 aerial camera degrades with age and is I think made from aluminium.

Vinten I think were able to somehow weld material to restore the bodies.

Maybe the metal needs painting or coating, before covering.
Also moisture would get under the rubber covering.

There are chemists on the forum who should be able to help.

Regards,
B.

 

[WRL]

Sorry, I am not a chemist.

Firstly one has to know what the metal is.

Perhaps aluminium or magnesium.
I suppose aluminium oxide or magnesium oxide forms.

The Vinten F95 aerial camera degrades with age and is I think made from aluminium.

Vinten I think were able to somehow weld material to restore the bodies.

Maybe the metal needs painting or coating, before covering.
Also moisture would get under the rubber covering.

There are chemists on the forum who should be able to help.

Regards,
B.

My suggestion is: do nothing. Anything you may put on the bare metal will rub off by the strap sooner or later. In addition, on the photo the metal looks quite shiny, as if is is plated (chromium, nickel ...?). If so, even better. By my experience every strap bracket will rub off by the time. In my opinion it is only a cosmetical problem. In addition, the whole rubber cover does not add to water proofness. That is done by the case itself and the seals employed.

 

[Binastro]

I looked at my 10x42L IS and understand that the lugs in the photo have no covering now.

These may be different to the main body.

B.

 

[Stu57]

Just a little tip for general usage of the Canon range of bins. Do not use them with suncream or insect repellant on your hands. The coating used on the canons seems to turn into a sticky mess after time. There seems to be some sort of reaction to the oils. I have a pair of 12x36 iii and owned them for 6 years I never put anything on my hands and the coating is fine and like new. But I have heard horror stories.

Cheers stu

 

[etudiant]

These lugs on my 10x42ISL show similar erosion of the black covering.
Plus there are several other places where the bare metal is now exposed, after only four years. There is much more bare metal on the backup pair, which had a decade of hard service before being retired.
Practically, these exposures are a non event, the lugs are plenty robust, about 12 mm deep, they will outlive multiple owners.

 

[abirdingguy]

Thanks for the all of the interesting information tips. I was going to do a bit of research on the composition of the binoculars' body and the materials' susceptibility to corrosion, but ran out of time today. I'll see if I can find out anything over the weekend.

The sunscreen tip is a good one - I used a fair amount of sunscreen last month, which was immediately prior to noticed the missing bits of rubber. I haven't noticed a stickiness to the rubber though. Still I will be more careful to wipe off any excess sunscreen or bug spray in the future.

A couple of additional points: The largest amount of missing rubber is on the attachment lugs. However there are other areas scattered around the binocular that are missing rubber. None of these is as drastic as on the lugs. I have not noticed any loss of the hard plastic coating, just the rubber-coated portion.

 

[abirdingguy]

Update: Canon customer service is open M-F, so I called them today. Unfortunately they didn't have any information as to the cause or solution to the problem, nor could they say what metal is used for the chassis.

Based on responses here, my course of action is to do nothing and occasionally inspect them for signs of corrosion. Thanks to all who chimed in.

 

[exup]

I have recently purchased Canon IS bins ...12x36 and 18x50, brilliant bits of kit. I have not used long enough, so no sign of wear, degraded coating, etc.

In terms of corrosion protection of aluminium and alloys.....
On aircraft, it is common to use cladded materials......this consists of more pure aluminium as a covering layer, this generally has higher resistance to corrosion than the load carrying aluminium alloy. In addition to this added layer, it is normal to anodise, then an etching primer and top coat of paint. The anodising is an oxide layer which is thickened to form a deeper layer of oxide. These approaches give best resistance to corrosion, especially salt.
For consumer goods, I guess it is low grade aluminium, which will probably have an oxide layer (not enhanced by anodising) and painted (?).
I suggest simply use an off the shelf paint if you have concerns. I have seen pictures of Canon IS bins pulled apart, with lots of white aluminium oxide showing inside ...... I concluded they must have had a hard life, with lots of humidity/moisture or possibly even salt spray. In that environment, they would probably always struggle to resist corrosion.
Hope that description didn't bore you and helps with your decision on options open.

Gary

 

[abirdingguy]

Gary,

Thanks for the additional detailed information. Is there a particular type of paint that you recommend? Also is it likely that I would be able to notice the formation of aluminium oxide before it is "too late?"

 

[exup]

Gary,

Thanks for the additional detailed information. Is there a particular type of paint that you recommend? Also is it likely that I would be able to notice the formation of aluminium oxide before it is "too late?"

Hi,
Here are good photos of disassembly of a Canon IS bin. Inside there is white corrosion ...... Disassembly Canon IS 15x50 Image Stabilized Binoculars - Binoculars - Cloudy Nights

Unless you are in high humidity, wet or salty environments, I would not worry too much. Aluminium has a high resistance to corrosion naturally due to the oxide layer e.g. greenhouse frames are untreated and last decades.

Any paint suitable for metal would suffice. I would use the paint I have for touching up motorcycle engine casings .... black matte. I haven't purchased recently, but should be available easily enough .... Something like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003O94...colid=3MOE7ESEBPY49&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Good luck and enjoy your bins ....... after using stabilised binoculars, it is hard to accept 'normal' bins and loss of definition with shaking images.

 

[abirdingguy]

Thanks for the follow up. I will monitor my binoculars and try some of that paint if the loss of rubber gets out of hand or the frame starts to show signs of corrosion.

Yes, these stabilized binoculars are great. I like them despite the bulk. I'm a bit surprised that more manufacturers haven't followed suit in producing stabilizied bindoculars for the birding community.

 

[Binocollector]

Also is it likely that I would be able to notice the formation of aluminium oxide before it is "too late?"

That shouldn't be a problem as the oxide layer protects the rest of the aluminium. This layer forms very quickly, one reason why soldering aluminium is so tricky.
But I think most of the time aluminium parts are anodized, which technically means that they already have a thicker oxide layer on top than the natural layer that builds up anyway.

 

[dipped]

Here is the most egregious example. I haven't had the binoculars more than 6 months, so I'm surprised to see them wear down so quickly. (Ignore the white squiggles as these are fibers from a white cloth that I recently wiped down the binocular body with.) The numbers on the bottom of the ruler in the photo are in cm.

Do you think that black electrical tape would provide sufficient protection against corrosion?

Here's my admittedly 10+ year old Nikon HG lug. Inspired by your post I noticed a similar situation. In my case I haven't done anything and it hasn't been a problem.

 

[Hermann]

Yes, these stabilized binoculars are great. I like them despite the bulk. I'm a bit surprised that more manufacturers haven't followed suit in producing stabilizied bindoculars for the birding community.

You can say that again. A stabilised binocular, even if it's optically nowhere close to the alphas, like the Canon 8x20 IS, will kill any conventional binocular when it comes to seeing detail on a bird.

Binoculars without stabilisation are thus the dinosaurs of the optics world, sure to die out once the Chinese discover that market and start making stabilised binoculars. After all, Leica, Swarovski and Zeiss are still fast asleep.

Hermann