Colombian Chocó (PNN Utria/Bahia Solano/Nuqui)? (1 Viewer)

[Thibaud]

Hi everybody,

I'm going to Colombia in a few weeks. I've spent a bit of time in the Andes already, and I'm planning on doing some lowland birding.
I'll be spending a few days around Leticia, where I already have contacts. But, I'd also love to make it to the Chocó, and I've got my eye on the Bahia Solano area. My first question is regarding safety. Birding here in Peru is much more relaxed, and I know that I need to be significantly more cautious in Colombia. Should I keep binoculars and camera hidden away unless inside a lodge or the national park, or would that be overkill? What about night birding, altogether terrible idea or fine in some spots? (my main interest would be Choco Screech-owl, any tips are welcome!)

Also, looking at ebird hotspots, the sites with most species seem to be between Bahia Solano itself (including the Jardin Botanico del Pacifico) and the national park, with far fewer species being reported further south, around Nuqui. Does that reflect the quality of the forest, or just a skew based on an established birding route?
I often prefer birding independently, but if possible, it would also be nice to go out with a local for a day, to try and nail a few of the tricky species. If anyone knows a local birder they could put me in touch with, that would be greatly appreciated.
Finally, any recommendations for places to stay? Certainly don't need to be fancy, being inside the forest/having a nice garden with plenty of Heliconias for hummer photos would be a plus.

Many thanks in advance!

 

[kb57]

I've only spent a short time in Colombia, but travelling independently I had to be aware of safety issues, and erred on the side of caution.
I didn't go to the Choco region, so I can't comment on safety in that region - the 'Birdwatching in Colombia' book, although outdated (from 2010) does have a lot of safety-related information on Bahia Solano area.
In cities I was careful to conceal camera and binoculars, only getting them out in 'safer' locations (e.g. Monserrate top of funicular / botanical gardens in Bogota) - I think these are sensible precautions in any city, including in Europe. In smaller towns like Jardin I wandered through the streets with camera and binoculars on the way to birding locations, and didn't feel in any way threatened. In Puerto Boyaca, a not at all touristy town which you might feel less safe in, I left my backpack containing camera and binoculars in the street, next to the lady who sold me a bus ticket for the chiva to El Paujil reserve, reasoning she was looking after a stack of motorcycle helmets whose value as a proportion of income was much greater to their owners. I think it's just a question of judging the situation.
I've never been to Peru, and in fact this was my only experience of South America, so I would guess you'd be fine.
Also, I think there are proportionately quite a lot of birders in Colombia, birding tourism is quite a big deal and people recognise this as a key reason for visiting the country, so there are quite a few local guides - sorry I can't help more specifically, there are others on BF with way more experience of the country - all I can say is it was a great place to visit.

 

[fbeeldens]

Hi everybody,

I'm going to Colombia in a few weeks. I've spent a bit of time in the Andes already, and I'm planning on doing some lowland birding.
I'll be spending a few days around Leticia, where I already have contacts. But, I'd also love to make it to the Chocó, and I've got my eye on the Bahia Solano area. My first question is regarding safety. Birding here in Peru is much more relaxed, and I know that I need to be significantly more cautious in Colombia. Should I keep binoculars and camera hidden away unless inside a lodge or the national park, or would that be overkill? What about night birding, altogether terrible idea or fine in some spots? (my main interest would be Choco Screech-owl, any tips are welcome!)

Also, looking at ebird hotspots, the sites with most species seem to be between Bahia Solano itself (including the Jardin Botanico del Pacifico) and the national park, with far fewer species being reported further south, around Nuqui. Does that reflect the quality of the forest, or just a skew based on an established birding route?
I often prefer birding independently, but if possible, it would also be nice to go out with a local for a day, to try and nail a few of the tricky species. If anyone knows a local birder they could put me in touch with, that would be greatly appreciated.
Finally, any recommendations for places to stay? Certainly don't need to be fancy, being inside the forest/having a nice garden with plenty of Heliconias for hummer photos would be a plus.

Many thanks in advance!

Hi there,

I can recommend Balmes Mosquera Lima (he's on FB) as a local guide. Probably best to get in touch with him regarding places to stay. we stayed at the community of Playa de Oro (there's a limited number of lodges /small hotels). At least one of the lodges in PLaya De Oro has some trails of its own, and the first couple of KM of the trail to Utria definitely have some good birds.

Note that getting to Utria NP either requires hiring a boat to take you there or a long walk through the forest 6-7 hours? (and boat arranged to pick you up as the lodge is at the other side of the laguna). If you take the trail, best to get a local guide as it's easy to get lost on some stretches.

Easiest way to get to Bahia Solano is flying in from Medellin (equally possible from Quibdo). The only other way to get there is by boat (from Buenaventura?). There's no daily flights however, so it takes some planning as well.

It's purely anecdotal of course, but we had no safety concerns birding around Bahia Solano or pretty much anywhere else out in the country side in Colombia (5 trips , some a month long). Big cities: take the common sense approach. Buenaventura I'd give a miss (bad reputation among the rest of Colombia).

I have never been to Nuqui, so no info there, but as much of the choco is difficult to access, it may be more of a logistics issue that there's so little info rather than that the place has few birds of interest.

Cheers,

Filip

​

 

[Thibaud]

That's great, thanks to you both!

 

[fbeeldens]

That's great, thanks to you both!

You're welcome:

A correction above: the community near Bahia Solano is El VAlle (it's at the end of the (one) road leading out of Bahia Solano), not Playa De Oro (that's in Ecuador ...)

While I heard there's recently been some safety concerns the (lower) Anchicaya Road - old buenavetura road out of Cali ( worth combining with San Cipriano) has excellent choco lower montane , foothill and lowland birding. A local guide is Johnier Arango (has a FB page 'The Andean Birder').

Multicolor Birding, based out of Medellin is a local birding company worth contacting for information, or for organizing (parts of ) your trip.

KR,

filip

 

[Thibaud]

While I heard there's recently been some safety concerns the (lower) Anchicaya Road - old buenavetura road out of Cali ( worth combining with San Cipriano) has excellent choco lower montane , foothill and lowland birding. A local guide is Johnier Arango (has a FB page 'The Andean Birder').

Yes I spent a couple days on the upper parts of that road a few years back. I didn't get everything of course, but got amazing views of the Toucan Barbet at Doña Dora's!

 

[AveryBartels]

Definitely get in touch with Balmes, he is top-notch and can help you organize transport, lodging give you up-to-date security info (I haven't heard of any real issues in that area of late) etc.

Check out my trip report from 2015. A bit dated but gives a bit of an idea of the birding sites around El Valle and Utria NP.

https://www.cloudbirders.com/be/download?filename=BARTELS_Colombia_0203_2015.pdf

 

[Julian H]

Hi All,
Based on the potential of Harpy Eagle I was looking at Bahia Solano area as a trip.

I am planning to go with my partner so not a hardcore birding trip and the area was recommended as being quiet with some nice beach areas.

A couple of general questions:
1. Flights are.from Medellin and not Bogota?

2. El Almejal lodge looks like the nicer place to stay, does anyone have any thoughts on this for comfort/quality for an interested-in-the-jungle but not a hardcore birder spouse!

3. The other option is the Mecana lodge in Jardin Botanico del Pacifico (where the Harpy is if nesting) which looks a bit rustic.

I don't have a grip on distances but is it possible to easily bird both areas or is there enough birding around the two lodges?

4. Seems like a rental car is not possible/needed.

So some overview on comfortand quality of accommodations would help rule it in or out.

Thanks!

 

[fbeeldens]

Hi All,
Based on the potential of Harpy Eagle I was looking at Bahia Solano area as a trip.

I am planning to go with my partner so not a hardcore birding trip and the area was recommended as being quiet with some nice beach areas.

A couple of general questions:
1. Flights are.from Medellin and not Bogota?

2. El Almejal lodge looks like the nicer place to stay, does anyone have any thoughts on this for comfort/quality for an interested-in-the-jungle but not a hardcore birder spouse!

3. The other option is the Mecana lodge in Jardin Botanico del Pacifico (where the Harpy is if nesting) which looks a bit rustic.

I don't have a grip on distances but is it possible to easily bird both areas or is there enough birding around the two lodges?

4. Seems like a rental car is not possible/needed.

So some overview on comfortand quality of accommodations would help rule it in or out.

Thanks!

Hi Julian,

it's been a number of years ago now (8 years ago now ...) , but here's what info I can provide. Others may have to correct me with more up-to-date info.

Flights are indeed from Medellin (or possibly from Quibdo - but I'd stillr ecommend to pick Medellin)

We birded the grounds (and some - then limited) trails of El Almejal. It certainly looked like a nice place to stay back then and going by the latest pictures of the place even more so now.

I have no information on the Mecana lodge (and we didn't bird the botanical gardens).

There's hardly any cars in Bahia Solano / El Valle. (there's only 1 road really, leading from Bahia Solano to El Valle), The lodge (s) may be able to help out with organizing local transport.

If you can, Utria NP is a spectacular place to visit. But it will take some organizing (either a long trek through the forest or by boat via the ocean.)

If you would be thinking of using a local bird guide / Info / would look for someone organizing logistics such as visiting Utria: Balmes Mosquira Lima is well worth contacting. He is a native of El VAlle. He has a FB page and I think now owns his own local company (Vida Salvaje Tours).

KR,

Filip

 

[Julian H]

Hi Julian,

it's been a number of years ago now (8 years ago now ...) , but here's what info I can provide. Others may have to correct me with more up-to-date info.

Flights are indeed from Medellin (or possibly from Quibdo - but I'd stillr ecommend to pick Medellin)

We birded the grounds (and some - then limited) trails of El Almejal. It certainly looked like a nice place to stay back then and going by the latest pictures of the place even more so now.

I have no information on the Mecana lodge (and we didn't bird the botanical gardens).

There's hardly any cars in Bahia Solano / El Valle. (there's only 1 road really, leading from Bahia Solano to El Valle), The lodge (s) may be able to help out with organizing local transport.

If you can, Utria NP is a spectacular place to visit. But it will take some organizing (either a long trek through the forest or by boat via the ocean.)

If you would be thinking of using a local bird guide / Info / would look for someone organizing logistics such as visiting Utria: Balmes Mosquira Lima is well worth contacting. He is a native of El VAlle. He has a FB page and I think now owns his own local company (Vida Salvaje Tours).

KR,

Filip

Filip,

Thanks. Looks nice. At this point looking at the El Nino and that November is still rainy, we are probably opting for the Cartagena side and exploring options there, but if the Harpy nests there, definitely a boys trip!!