Digiscoping with the Nikon V1 (2 Viewers)

[rabu]

Which maximum aperture is possible?

First I'm new here and I'm very impressed by the excellent photos here.
I will make photos from (little) birds without dirsturb them (see attachment with the SX50). So I need distance. And therefore digiscoping is the right tool, I think. For me I think 200 mm per meter is a good calculation and 15 m the minimum distance and therefore 2500 mm - 3000 mm is needed.

My first questions:
I think a little sensor like of the V1 need low ISO (max. ISO 400) for good pictures and therefore a big aperture and good light is needed.
Which maximum aperture is possible by using a spective with the V1?
The 30 - 110 mm does have an aperture of about f/4 at 32 mm, right?
Does 30x and 100 mm or 80 mm achive an aperture of f/4?
Is the 30 - 110 mm at 32 mm better than the 10-30 at 30 mm?

Many thanks.

I currently using / have tested with a SX50, FZ200 + Raynox 2025 (1320 mm FF / 2,8), with a EOS 450D + EF 70-300 IS USM and Pentax Q + EF 70-300 mm at 200 mm.

 

[Neil]

First I'm new here and I'm very impressed by the excellent photos here.
I will make photos from (little) birds without dirsturb them (see attachment with the SX50). So I need distance. And therefore digiscoping is the right tool, I think. For me I think 200 mm per meter is a good calculation and 15 m the minimum distance and therefore 2500 mm - 3000 mm is needed.

My first questions:
I think a little sensor like of the V1 need low ISO (max. ISO 400) for good pictures and therefore a big aperture and good light is needed.
Which maximum aperture is possible by using a spective with the V1?
The 30 - 110 mm does have an aperture of about f/4 at 32 mm, right?
Does 30x and 100 mm or 80 mm achive an aperture of f/4?
Is the 30 - 110 mm at 32 mm better than the 10-30 at 30 mm?

Many thanks.

I currently using / have tested with a SX50, FZ200 + Raynox 2025 (1320 mm FF / 2,8), with a EOS 450D + EF 70-300 IS USM and Pentax Q + EF 70-300 mm at 200 mm.

Welcome to the Group.
For iso performance the Sony RX 100 and RX100 M2 and the Sony Nex 6 & 7 and the Panasonic GH3 and GX7 are better than the V1/V2. I haven't found it too much of a problem in average to good light but under canopy or on cloudy days it is nice to be able to use iso 800/1600. The advantage though with the V1/V2 is the very fast frame rate of up to 60 fps in full Raw so that you can get away with slower shutter speeds than with slower cameras.
If you like to shoot Raw though you will find the Nikon 1 cameras to be very slow ( minutes to process 10 raw frames ).
The lenses on the Sony cameras are much better than the Nikon 1 lenses though, but for close up work ( less than 20 meters) you won't notice much difference. I like the Nikon 1 lenses as they are internally focusing and can be easily mounted on a Swarovski type DCA adapter. I like the 18.5/2.8 lens at the moment but the 11-27.5 mm lens is a nice zoom.
You are better off shooting the 30 - 100 mm lens wide than the 10-30 mm lens at full zoom. Some say it's a bit sharper too.
For distance (mudflats/wetlands) in marginal light I find the Sony RX 100 M2 with the Zeiss lens to be an excellent performer.
Hope this helps a bit, Neil.
ps have a look at the Sony Nex 6 and Nex 7 threads.

 

[KL007]

First I'm new here and I'm very impressed by the excellent photos here.
I will make photos from (little) birds without dirsturb them (see attachment with the SX50). So I need distance. And therefore digiscoping is the right tool, I think. For me I think 200 mm per meter is a good calculation and 15 m the minimum distance and therefore 2500 mm - 3000 mm is needed.

My first questions:
I think a little sensor like of the V1 need low ISO (max. ISO 400) for good pictures and therefore a big aperture and good light is needed.
Which maximum aperture is possible by using a spective with the V1?
The 30 - 110 mm does have an aperture of about f/4 at 32 mm, right?
Does 30x and 100 mm or 80 mm achive an aperture of f/4?
Is the 30 - 110 mm at 32 mm better than the 10-30 at 30 mm?

Many thanks.

I currently using / have tested with a SX50, FZ200 + Raynox 2025 (1320 mm FF / 2,8), with a EOS 450D + EF 70-300 IS USM and Pentax Q + EF 70-300 mm at 200 mm.

Hello rabu, I have a V1 and I use it with a Zeiss 85 Scope with a 30x occular.
I have the 10-30, 30-110, 18.5, 10, and the 11-27 objektiv.
I think the new 11-27 is the best for me and brings ca. 2200mm (2.7*30*27). More magnification seems to be an empty one.
I think iso 800 for the V1 is ok. Bigger sensors like 1" make no sense for digiscoping.
I have added 2 pics taken with iso 800 and the 11-27.

 

[KL007]

Someone is using this objetive for digiscoping:
1 NIKKOR 32mm f/1.2

Hello Paseriformes,
I was also very interested in the Nikkor 32mm. It has the best magnification for me and it is more stable than a kit zoom.
But I was able to test it in a photo shop and it hasen't convinced me.
Image quality wasn't so good (for digiscoping) and the af of the objectiv has shakened the scope. I think the new 11-27 kit zoom is the best for digiscoping.

 

[Blechroller]

Hi,

since some weeks I also use the Nikon V1 with the 11-27 zoom. Now I get a little bit better in use with this combo.










Olli

 

[rabu]

@Neil
@KL007
Very nice pictures with ISO 800! My 450D ist not better (but older).
Thanks for the advice for the lenses.

I think too, the V1 ist currently the top digiscoping camera if I will get over 2000 mm FF. And I can use for best quality lower magnification on the lens and on the occular.
I have yet bought a low budget scope for testing, but I fear a swaro or so is needed. What do you think about the optical quality and usability about a swaro CTC 30x75mm?

 

[KL007]

@Neil
@KL007
Very nice pictures with ISO 800! My 450D ist not better (but older).
Thanks for the advice for the lenses.

I think too, the V1 ist currently the top digiscoping camera if I will get over 2000 mm FF. And I can use for best quality lower magnification on the lens and on the occular.
I have yet bought a low budget scope for testing, but I fear a swaro or so is needed. What do you think about the optical quality and usability about a swaro CTC 30x75mm?

I haven't the swaro ctc, but I think for your purposes 75mm delivers not enough light. If I had no scope my wish would be the new STX 95mm (see Neil). If your price limit is 1000 € I would wait for the new Canon SX60 (perhaps a 100x zoom) or have a look on the new tamron 150-600mm.
I hope I can test the Tamron 150-600 on my Nikon V1 with crop 2.7.

 

[rabu]

my very first test with Olympus XZ-1 (which I known that it is vignetting) and scope seben 18-54x80 High-End ED Nitrogen.
The result ist better than with SX50. I think I try now the V1 with that scope.
112 mm, 27 x, 1,3 s, ISO 100, f/5.

 

[timmyjones]

Dave,

This is all I use, a sleeve and step up ring to 40.5mm for the V1. I use a Nikon remote shutter release as well.

From reading this thread it seems that quite a few people attach their V1 using the filter thread at the end of the lense, does this not worry people that it could damage the lens at some point? Bit cautious of getting an adaptor to attach onto the lens itself, it is a fairly heavy camera!

 

[Neil]

From reading this thread it seems that quite a few people attach their V1 using the filter thread at the end of the lense, does this not worry people that it could damage the lens at some point? Bit cautious of getting an adaptor to attach onto the lens itself, it is a fairly heavy camera!

I haven't had a problem with doing it this way, although you do have the problem of lens creep.
I do like the UCA/DCB 11 type adapters so that I can adjust the position of the camera/lens as I zoom the camera lens and the zoom eyepiece to minimise vignetting.
Neil.

 

[timmyjones]

Having recently got a Nikon V1 thought I would post how I have sorted an adaptor to fit it to my leica apo77 20-60x zoom seen as most other people tend to use the Swarovski DCA etc

Start by buying a threaded sleeve from SRB grinturn for the right size of your scope (57mm for mine) order it with a 37mm insert

http://srb-photographic.co.uk/digiscoping-threaded-sleeves-793-c.asp

Then to attach it to the V1 you'll need a 40.5mm to 37mm step down ring, put these two together and you have an adaptor that's very simple to use and a lot cheaper than the Nikon options!

Will post a few pics on my blog later to illustrate this

 

[Neil]

Having recently got a Nikon V1 thought I would post how I have sorted an adaptor to fit it to my leica apo77 20-60x zoom seen as most other people tend to use the Swarovski DCA etc

Start by buying a threaded sleeve from SRB grinturn for the right size of your scope (57mm for mine) order it with a 37mm insert

http://srb-photographic.co.uk/digiscoping-threaded-sleeves-793-c.asp

Then to attach it to the V1 you'll need a 40.5mm to 37mm step down ring, put these two together and you have an adaptor that's very simple to use and a lot cheaper than the Nikon options!

Will post a few pics on my blog later to illustrate this

Simple solution. Nice.
Neil.

 

[rabu]

Very cool the V1. The picture was shot with an entry level scope seben 18-54 ED @ 24 mm, 40x. The focus in this shot could be a bit better (see right of the bird the picture is sharper).

Is there a remote trigger available who you can shot in continuous mode? With the ML-L3 I can only shot in single frame shot mode?

 

[Marcobf]

For continuous remote shots you'll need a mechanical solution like this

http://srb-photographic.co.uk/compact-shutter-release-bracket-with-12-vinyl-cable-4550-p.asp

 

[rabu]

For continuous remote shots you'll need a mechanical solution like this

http://srb-photographic.co.uk/compact-shutter-release-bracket-with-12-vinyl-cable-4550-p.asp

Thanks!

 

[Neil]

Very cool the V1. The picture was shot with an entry level scope seben 18-54 ED @ 24 mm, 40x. The focus in this shot could be a bit better (see right of the bird the picture is sharper).

Is there a remote trigger available who you can shot in continuous mode? With the ML-L3 I can only shot in single frame shot mode?

I like to shoot in Electronic fast mode in short bursts. I find a remote a bit restricting, especially when tracking fast moving feeding birds.
Neil.

 

[rabu]

another example.

 

[Dave Hobbo]

V1

Hi all,

new to digiscoping, recently got a Swarovski atx 95mm scope, now looking at the Nikon V1.

The question I have is which adapter to get, would the 10-30mm lens fit on a DCB II, or would I have to use the TLS APO, what do you guys use.


Dave H

 

[Neil]

Hi all,

new to digiscoping, recently got a Swarovski atx 95mm scope, now looking at the Nikon V1.

The question I have is which adapter to get, would the 10-30mm lens fit on a DCB II, or would I have to use the TLS APO, what do you guys use.


Dave H

Dave the 10-30 mm is a tight fit on the DCB11 so the newer 11-27.5 is a better option or the 18.5 mm. I prefer the TLS APO for video as I like the manual focus. For faster action of feeding ducks and shorebirds I like to use auto focus. The DCB11 is good for this.
Neil

 

[jascha777]

Hi all, I have a kowa 883 with the new 25-60 zoom and also a V1 with the 11 - 27.5 lens which I believe has a 40.5mm thread.my question is if I want to use a DA10 what type of adapter ring do I need,,40.5 to ?? I don't want to go down the DA4 route,so is this all I need to attach camera to scope.
Many thanks(and apologies if this has been covered before!)

Mark