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En France sans voiture (1 Viewer)

Day Three 7th April

I was back on the train again, and heading south from Corte to Vizzavona – a station around 900 metres up and surrounded by forest. On arrival the weather was fine and I enjoyed wonderful views of Monte D’Oro, one of the highest peaks on the island. Setting off through glorious beech woods strewn with crocuses, I followed the GR20 long-distance trail, eventually reaching the impressive Cascade des Anglais. From here I headed up towards a high mountain pass, eventually getting up to around 1700 metres before returning the way I’d come. High up there was still quite a bit of snow on the ground. In the beech woods, in fact even in the dwarf beech high up, the birds were generally rather familiar: Blackbird, Chaffinch, Blue Tits, Robins and Wrens. I managed for the first time on the trip to get some decent views of the near-endemic subspecies of Wren. These are quite strongly barred underneath and their songs sounded a little more elaborate than British Wrens. I was hoping for some alpine birds higher up and, as I got out of the woods I was soon seeing quite a few Water Pipits, all in fine looking summer plumage. I was even more pleased to get close but rather brief views of an Alpine Accentor. I spent quite a bit of time scanning the high crags in the hope of raptors and Alpine Choughs but only picked out a Kestrel, a Raven and a Crag Martin. On the way down I briefly disturbed a Dipper along a small stream. The weather then began to deteriorate, first becoming cloudy, then spotting with rain and then a full blown downpour. By the time I got back to the station I was soaked and sought refuge in the nearby restaurant. I’d hoped to see a few Nuthatches in this area but didn’t really find any extensive areas of pine forest. I think the forest to the north of the station might be a better bet than the areas I visited.
 
Some pretty pictures from the walk.
 

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And here's the mouthwatering peak of Monte D'Oro and one of the many crocuses in the beech forest.
 

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There were a few fishermen on the river and in the afternoon there were some walkers around the cascades. Higher up there was nobody. Most of Corsica is like this, although I suppose it gets a bit busier in summertime.
 
Day Four 8th April

I didn’t have long in the morning, so had a quick wander along the lanes around Corte. I had good views of a couple more Firecrests and saw a distant Sparrowhawk circling (apparently another endemic subspecies). I got the train to Ajaccio late in the morning, enjoyed the rest of the epic train journey across the island and saw a few Red Kites as I travelled. The ferry departed for Toulon in the middle of the afternoon. I wasn’t too sure what I might see from the boat and the answer was, to a large extent, not very much. The most numerous species by far was, somewhat to my surprise, Little Gull. I must have seen well over two hundred heading north towards the coast of France. Three Mediterranean Shearwaters passed by fairly close to the ship and three Mediterranean Gulls were seen nearer to the mainland. I also saw at least five Common Dolphins, leaping acrobatically from the water. I arrived in Toulon as night fell and found my way the fairly short distance to my hotel.
 
That was more-or-less it for the trip, but the birds weren’t quite at an end. I allowed a bit more time than necessary for my walk from the hotel to the station in Toulon in the hope that I might be able to figure out what kind of swifts I was seeing over the town. After a few hundred metres, I found several swifts hawking about overhead and so out came the bins. I spent several minutes having a good look before being able to convince myself that these were Pallid Swifts. I’d initially been struck by the rather leisurely flight action but closer to, the contrasting underwings and extensive pale throats could be seen. The wings seemed more blunt tipped and almost paddle shaped, something accentuated when what appeared to be a Common Swift streaked through rather frenetically, its wings sickle-shaped and sharp ended. The calls also seemed lower and slightly more drawn out. Lots of subtle differences but the overall effect was quite distinctive. Then I was on the TGV to Paris and from there onto the Eurostar to London, where I arrived late in the afternoon.

So all-in-all a rather fine trip with 148 species recorded, including eight that were new for me. I suspect this isn’t quite the best time to visit some of the areas I went to, with it being a bit early for a lot of summer visitors but too late for some of the winter visitors. But everywhere looks lovely in early April and the birds are still excellent.

Hey, I finished a trip report!
 
Super report Andrew - I enjoyed reading that and lovely pictures too.

You do get around don't you?8-P

D
 
Hi Andrew,

What a great trip report - thanks....

This thread came up when I did a search on 'Fontainebleau', as I am planning to drop in there on the way back from visiting relatives in central France in April and fancied a go for the legendary Black Woodpecker... Sounds a breeze, so I won't have any excuses for dipping!!


All the best.... Ray
 
Hi Andrew,

What a great trip report - thanks....

This thread came up when I did a search on 'Fontainebleau', as I am planning to drop in there on the way back from visiting relatives in central France in April and fancied a go for the legendary Black Woodpecker... Sounds a breeze, so I won't have any excuses for dipping!!


All the best.... Ray

Hi Ray - glad you like the report. I'd go so far as to say that Fontainebleau is the best place for seeing Black Woodpeckers I've been to. You should get Middle-spotted too, although they're a little less obvious.
 
Hi Ray - glad you like the report. I'd go so far as to say that Fontainebleau is the best place for seeing Black Woodpeckers I've been to. You should get Middle-spotted too, although they're a little less obvious.

Thanks Andrew - any special gen about best areas for the Black Woodies? I've not been to the area before and, although I can see the general area that you refer to on the map, I know that some of these French forests can be pretty vast (speaking as someone who has spent many a happy hour trekking through the Foret de Crecy in search of mythical Woodpeckers!)

I think we'll be staying in the Fontainebleau city centre....


All the best.... Ray
 
any special gen about best areas for the Black Woodies?

I guess you already know this, but I would recommend listening to the varied calls of Black Woodpecker on a CD before going there ...locating them by call is far easier than searching every bit of woodland - the call, though not particularly loud, carries far. Very usual is the 'pyuuu, pyuuu' call. Also watch the sky and horizon, they often (more so than other woodpeckers) fly well above the tree line when moving between woodland blocks.

Sorry if you already knew all this ;)
 
Thanks Andrew - any special gen about best areas for the Black Woodies? I've not been to the area before and, although I can see the general area that you refer to on the map, I know that some of these French forests can be pretty vast (speaking as someone who has spent many a happy hour trekking through the Foret de Crecy in search of mythical Woodpeckers!)

I think we'll be staying in the Fontainebleau city centre....


All the best.... Ray

The areas where I generally saw Black Woodpeckers were in the forests just south of the N6, just a few kilometres south of Fontainebleau centre and the palace. The best type of forest is mature mixed forest, so look in areas with plenty of tall conifers. They should be pretty vocal and flying around a lot in April, which should mean you see some. They can be a bit harder to get good, clear views of on the deck though. Middle-spotteds prefer areas of mature deciduous woodland.

The area of woodland northeast of the palace and just next to the town centre (by the Allee Napoleon) is quite good for things like Firecrest and Short-toed Treecreeper by the way.
 
An excellent site can be found in

A Birdwatching Guide to France North of the Loire
Jacquie Crozier
Arlequin Press

ISBN: 1900159767

We went to Paris Region Area 6 Site 1 detailed in the book not to far from Fontainbleu
I had grey headed woodpecker, middle spotted woodpecker and black woodpecker fairly easily within 1 hour.

Hope that helps, please PM me and I can give you a P/copy of the page

Mark
 
Thanks Guys,

That's all useful info....

Jos - that's a good tip.... I do have a DVD of calls etc so will do a bit of boning up before I go - I know how useful it is to be able to distinguish the drumming of a LSW from a GSW (not that we have many of the former around these parts!!)

It must be an age thing, but am I the only one who has to re-learn a whole bunch of birdsong and calls each Spring!!

Andrew - Thanks pal, that should be a big help for me.... We hope to have one full day and a bit in the area, so should have time to explore a numbers of places. I may well treat myself to a copy of the book that Mark mentions, but there is a PM on the way...


Thanks again.... Ray
 
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