Tenerife, the first 10 days
Bajamar
The green jagged mountainous landscape of the northern part of Tenerife where we are based is a huge contrast to the arid, flat lands of Fuerteventura. We are based in Bajamar on the edge of the lush laural forests of the Anaga massif and this time a car is essential. There are limited possibilities on foot here, partly because access is denied to a lot of the habitat.
That local area does have a couple of small reservoirs and with african crakes and rails very much in the Macaronesian news I have given them a look and found a
Glossy Ibis, a small roost of
Black-crowned Night Herons and a
Garganey. Canarian
Kestrels are particularly common with perhaps three pairs in sight of our apartment and
Barbary Falcons go over every so often. It's nice to watch the
Cattle Egrets feeding here too and the pre/post roost flocks up at the pools have got to c.80.
Canary Island Chiffchaffs and
Atlantic Canaries are numerous and vocal, while
Blackbirds and
Blackcaps are common in the barranco and growing areas. The small scale agriculture is also excellent for
Barbary Partridge and reptiles.
Tenerife Lizard is common and yesterday we found two
West Canary Skinks fairly easily. One 'rarity' here was a single
Greenfinch.
Butterflies so far have been mainly
Small Whites with a few
Red Admiral,
Canary Speckled Wood and
Clouded Yellow. Few dragonflies and nothing settling for ID as yet.
Parque Rural de Anaga
Our first few trips out were into the Anaga Rural Park where there is a vast amount of seemingly unspoilt laurel and juniper forest clinging to the steep peaks. A bit of checking shows that both endemic pigeons have been seen here recently but views from the most popular miradors are rather obscured by nearby tall vegetation. However the viewpoint at Pico del Ingles gives largely uninterrupted views across a huge amount of excellent habitat. On my first visit I only got one unidentifiable glimpse and followed this with a
Laurel Pigeon flying away much lower down near Los Batanes. Disappointingly this was right at the base of the forest zone and was with Feral Pigeons! Not the experience I had expected. However on my last visit to Pico del Ingles I had 10 sightings of pigeons over about 2 hours. 8 of these were Laurel Pigeons, always singly in flight and sometimes very close. I even had one perched for a while, although the heat shimmer was bad making photography pointless. I also heard them calling here and it seems there are probably one or two resident just under the western edge of the viewpoint. The other two sightings were of
Bolle's Pigeon, both single birds flying away over the next ridge to the west. Not terribly satisfactory views but the salient features noted. Then as I drove off from here a Bolle's Pigeon flushed from above the car and flew in front of me for a few seconds giving incredible views of the banded tail!
A bit of walking along trails through this forest revealed that seeing the pigeons would be very difficult away from the miradors as the paths pass through the dense cover with little in the way of views. They do however have a fair few
Tenerife Goldcrests, the odd Canary Island
Great Spotted Woodpecker,
African Blue Tits and plenty of Canary Island
Common Chaffinches. Really taken with this race and with it's distinctive plumage and different vocals surely must be as good a species as the Chiffchaff or Blue Tit (as proposed here
Sequential colonization of oceanic archipelagos led to a species-level radiation in the common chaffinch complex (Aves: Fringilla coelebs)).
Punta del Hidalgo
A short way north along the coast from us is the end of the road and the faded resort of Punta del Hidalgo. Attractive from a birding point of view as it has some abandoned coastal agriculture and scrub on a bit of a headland, which must be first landfall for birds from the north and west and has some potential for seawatching. Indeed there are two rather new-looking hides here with some excellently illustrated information panels. A few waders use the rocky shoreline and the small fields and scrub hold a couple of
Sardinian Warblers and the only
Berthelot's Pipits I've seen so far but the sea is the main attraction.
My first check just came up with a single
Cory's Shearwater but on 9th Feb the wind swung around to the south and I was treated to 31 Cory's and a single
Barolo Shearwater heading north. This latter was a particularly pleasing lifer as I was one of the many seawatchers at Pendeen on 5th October last year enjoying the likes of Leach's Petrels and Sabine's Gulls while just three others got onto one passing there unseen by everyone else.
The beautiful and dramatic barranco here is walkable and there are Iberian Water Frogs in the pools higher up.
Common Buzzards,
Barbary Falcons and
Kestrels were having spats over the twin rocky peaks of Los Hermanos to the north.
Las Raices
On the 10th we ventured a little further afield to the recreational areas in the mountains SW of the capital on the way to El Teide. An easy 5-6km circuit here through open pine forest was a pleasant change to the dense cover of Anaga and the wildlife pretty good too. Highlight was at the Zona Recreativa where someone had put down some food that was attracting several species including the
Tenerife Blue Chaffinch. Seen in the pines earlier on the walk it was nice to get close views of this endemic along with excellent views of the
Common Chaffinch,
Great Spotted Woodpecker and
African Blue Tit. It was also close to here that we saw two
Tenerife Geckos, the second one posing very nicely for the camera. There were more
Tenerife Blue Chaffinches to the north at the Zona de Acampada where tubs of water were being visited by 4 birds along with other species including
European Robin.
A second visit to this area at the weekend proved that it is essential to come in the week as the place was packed with locals picnicking and barbequing. We pushed on a little further to the Mirador de Chipeque where the view of El Tiede above a sea of cloud were breathtaking. The common orthopteran in these mountains appears to be
Broad Green-winged Grasshopper.
Malpais de Guimar
Escaping the busy high mountains we headed to the east coast to explore this little gem. A relatively barren lava field with scattered cardons and tabaiba it had some excellent rock pools and there were at least 13
Cory's Shearwaters passing or lingering offshore. Among the rockpool life were plenty of
Spotted Seahares and
Rock-pool Blennies.