How to fix the darkness in these photos... (1 Viewer)

[Kevin2]

I spent plenty of time yesterday messing with P, M, and A modes, and I'm not sure which one I was in when I took these shots [I will figure out that system of trial and error!], but I'm sure you'll be able to help me find the proper fix so next time I don't snooze!

The leaves and bird are just to dark to see...

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b48/hidkevin/Nikon6-10-0670-300245.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b48/hidkevin/Nikon6-10-0670-300209.jpg

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b48/hidkevin/Nikon6-10-0670-300195.jpg


Thanks for the help.

Kevin

 

[Andy Bright]

The main problem here, and one that many new photographers have, is that the metering mode of the camera is set on 'matrix' matering... in matrix metering the camera is looking at the whole scene to judge the correct exposure, and with a scene dominated by bright sky, the camera overlooks getting the exposure correct for a small darkish subject in favour of getting the majority exposed correctly.

You often need to use spot metering in these circumstances, though because the subject is so small in the scene (even smaller than the spot used to determine metering), you will probably need to over-expose by using the EV +/- control to overexpose the scene to get the subject exposed correctly... you'll probably get an over-exposed sky, but you can get the bird brighter.

Using shadow/highlights control in photoshop CS/CS2, you can often recover minor-medium under-exposure... but carefully does it, otherwise you get some unpleasant side effects (light halos).
cheers,
Andy

 

[bpw]

I agree with Andy, that the birds are small in the frame and the camera has correctly exposed for the sky rather than the subject. In simple terms, if the bird is darker than the background we need to overexpose the picture. As Andy said, you’ll overexpose the sky with your shots, but this is unavoidable. If the bird is lighter than the background, we need to underexpose the picture, or the bird will be overexposed.

Although many photographers would use spot metering in this situation, I don’t think it really matters which method you use, as long as you understand how it will treat the scene. I use Canon’s evaluative metering all the time, and the only reason I do so is because the first book I read was ‘The Art of Bird Photography’, in which the author explains why he always uses it!

Whichever method is used, it is often the case that you’ll have to use compensation. As far as I understand it, even with spot metering (which I’ve never used so correct me if I’m wrong), you’d need to use compensation if the bird’s plumage is very light or very dark (i.e. not a middle-tone)?

Then there’s the situation where you’re photographing a black and white bird in bright sunlight against a dark background...!

 

[Andy Bright]

Although many photographers would use spot metering in this situation, I don’t think it really matters which method you use, as long as you understand how it will treat the scene. I use Canon’s evaluative metering all the time

Yep, quite right. Though quite often spot metering does get you in the right 'ballpark' so to speak... and some cameras have quite limited range of EV adjustment. Spot metering varies quite a bit from camera to camera, some are closer to partial/centre-weighted when compared to other's smaller spots.

Only experience can help in these trying and varying situations, the size of the bird in the viewfinder and the bird's plumage are the key things to take into account... but err on the side of under-exposing. As far as plumage goes, it's generally best to expose the whites correctly and let the blacks go.

cheers,
Andy

 

[SMC2002]

Kevin,
Andy and Paul's advice is spot on. One thing I learned a long time ago that still helps me today is: A dark subject with a bright background needs + EV Compensation. A light subject on a dark background needs - EV Compensation.

The amount of compensation depends on the difference in light between the subject and background. In you pics, I'd say at least 1 stop of + EV would be in order. If you shoot in less harsh light (mornings or early evenings) less comp is required. If you shoot in harsh mid-day light, more comp is required.

This is one of the many instances where your meter will lie to you. Yes, you can do better with spot metering if you understand how to use it. The main thing to remeber is that a 0 meter reading means the scene averages out to neutral gray.

FWIW, EV Comp doesn't fix everything. If you would have used +1 EV of compensation on your pics, the sky would have been over exposed. You can look at this as a small price to pay to get your subject properly exposed, as I usually do. Or, if you have the ability to shoot RAW, you can "blend" 2 different versions of conversions to keep the sky properly exposed in one version and the subject in the other. Then it's just a matter of using a layer mask and erasing.

As Andy points out, you need to watch out for really light or really dark markings on your subject also. In harsh light, it is sometimes impossible to properly expose both the light and dark parts of some birds. Ringneck pheasants are a good example. Dark brown plumage and that darned white ring around the neck.

Hope this helps some,
Steve

The info on this site may help you
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm