We returned from our cruise around Iceland last week. As surmised by Edward, our ship (MV Viking Star) circled Iceland some 10 miles or more out at sea, only calling in at selected places for excursions (which were not bird-orientated). There were no chances to view the seabird colonies which held millions of auks, except at Heimaey in the Vestmann Is. (when the fog lifted the cold horizontal sleet could be seen!!), and on Vigur (from Ísafjörður). Vigur in the almost-spring sunshine (the other Icelandic season being winter) was idyllic: ridiculously tame Black Guillemots which nested in the pier, the shingle banks, house roofs and walls, the rhubarb patch (grown for pies, cakes and jams), and so on; hundreds of Eiders (from which the down is gathered) and Puffins, and dive-bombing Arctic Terns (sticks to hold above the head thoughtfully provided).
Happily, groups of auks were frequent at sea, and I did manage to identify Brünnich’s Guillemots off Straumnes, Hornstrandir, during the summer solstice just before we crossed the Arctic Circle.
An excursion from Akureyri (beautiful hinterland) took us to Mývatn, where good views were had of a large flock of Barrow’s Goldeneye and plentiful Red-necked Phalaropes (one feeding in the grass at our feet). I was unable to bribe or persuade the courier and coach-driver to divert to the Laxa bridge for the guaranteed Harlequin Ducks, but did manage two single ducks at sea off Viðey and off Heimaey.
Although the cruise yielded some 40 species of birds (plus a Harbour Seal and an unidentified whale), the experience was most enjoyable, with stunning scenery and abundant wildlife. The Icelanders were universally courteous and friendly and rightly proud of their nation and home.