birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Looks spot-on Mark, cheers 
-
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Japan Feb/March 2016 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter birdboybowley
- Start date
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
23rd Feb – Today was gonna be good! We were up ridiculously early for our 0800 JAL flight to Kushiro on Hokkaido. We saw our only Kestrel of the trip on the airport perimeter fence as we arrived. The flight was short and typically efficient and also yielded great views of the Central Alps as we flew over Honshu. The landscape below us on final approach was crisp and clean....and very white!
Baggage collection was quick and painless and we were soon in the van to be taken across the street to the hire car company. We had a Nissan Note which was also 4WD, I guess as standard in this place! We soon input Take-san's phone number into the satnav and we were off...straight into a blizzard – yeay!! Just outside the airport we saw a tree full of Black-eared Kites. We hit Kushiro and it was like driving in the USA (except on the correct side of the road!!)...traffic lights and crossroads every few hundred metres! An impromptu stop at a McDonald's (I know, I know!) whilst the worst of the weather abated filled a hole and we set off again eastwards, dropping down to Akkeshi Harbour for our first taste of Japanese winter birding!
Masses of Slaty-backed Gulls lined the quayside fighting for scraps with the outnumbered kites and Jap Crows. An adult White-tailed Eagle soon had everything else moving out of its way whilst out on the water we had many Black Scoters, Goldeneye, Red-breasted Mergansers and a single Pelagic Cormorant.
We crossed over the bridge and set off round the coast towards Cape Kiritappu and dropped into the harbour as we approached. Here I found the bird I most wanted to see....probably the whole reason for wanting to come to Hokkaido in winter: my first Steller's Eagle, a gorgeous adult sitting atop the harbour building, beswirled by snow and glaring around in regal fashion – he knew who was the boss here!! Awesome.
In the harbour itself we had what was to become the common staple of the coast here: Black Scoters, Goldeneye, Long-tailed Ducks, Scaup, Goosander and mergansers. And of course gulls: hundreds of Slaty-backs and a single adult Kamchatka seen too. Some Pochard and Mallard were also seen here aswell as a nice Pacific Diver and Black-necked Grebe. 2 Pacific Harbour Seals were also seen here as they swam by. As we approached the Cape itself a very nice Short-eared Owl perched up roght next to the road and showed brilliantly in the whitening conditions. At the actual Cape I walked to the lighthouse seeing a Rough-legged Buzzard hanging in the air above it and flushed a Dusky Thrush from some exposed grasses. I had to laugh inwardly at the information sign that showed the Cape in all its summery beauty as I stood shaking in a snowstorm....apparently watching the sunset here is a must-see....next time!
We drove back up across the Kiritappu Wetland but there really wasn't anything to see at this time of year. The weather began to improve as we rejoined Hwy44 and we made good progress on snow-free roads seeing 6 big-conked Middendorf's Bean Geese fly over the road and land in a distant part of a lake, 2 more Steller's Eagles and several large herds of the native yesoensis subspecies of Sika Deer (known as Ezo Deer) on the way, reaching Lodge Furen by late afternoon – we had made sure we knew what the building looked like as it isn't really well signed. We were made very welcome by our amazing hosts and warmed ourselves with green tea and sat and watched the birds coming to the feeder outside: Marsh, Coal and Japanese Tits, a Great-spotted Wood, Tree Sparrows and Brown-eared Bulbuls. We chatted to Take-san about sites to visit andhe gave us maps aplenty, after which we were shown our large room and all the facilities and after dumping our gear we set off for a quick walk to the lake behind us.
We had a nice group of gulls resting by the bridge comprising c20 Slaty-backs, 14 Glaucous, 5 Glaucous-winged and a single Kamchatcka. Several Whooper Swans, Goldeneye and Pintail were seen out on the water and as we walked along the rather slippery and holey boardwalk we saw 3 nice Dusky Thrushes, a Fox and a Sika Deer. 2ad1imm Steller's Eagles and a few White-tailed Eagles were seen going to roost on the opposite side of the lake. The temperature really began to fall as the sun set so we returned to our lodge and met up with some of the other guests staying here, mostly photographers first, birders second. Our legendary meals appeared....unfortunately mostly fish and seafood which our fellow guests found highly amusing that neither of us eat it!! Some good-natured banter with bartering fish-for-rice-and-veggies had us all happy and after chatting away and swapping gen we returned to our lovely warm room and fell into a fitful sleep.
Baggage collection was quick and painless and we were soon in the van to be taken across the street to the hire car company. We had a Nissan Note which was also 4WD, I guess as standard in this place! We soon input Take-san's phone number into the satnav and we were off...straight into a blizzard – yeay!! Just outside the airport we saw a tree full of Black-eared Kites. We hit Kushiro and it was like driving in the USA (except on the correct side of the road!!
)...traffic lights and crossroads every few hundred metres! An impromptu stop at a McDonald's (I know, I know!) whilst the worst of the weather abated filled a hole and we set off again eastwards, dropping down to Akkeshi Harbour for our first taste of Japanese winter birding!Masses of Slaty-backed Gulls lined the quayside fighting for scraps with the outnumbered kites and Jap Crows. An adult White-tailed Eagle soon had everything else moving out of its way whilst out on the water we had many Black Scoters, Goldeneye, Red-breasted Mergansers and a single Pelagic Cormorant.
We crossed over the bridge and set off round the coast towards Cape Kiritappu and dropped into the harbour as we approached. Here I found the bird I most wanted to see....probably the whole reason for wanting to come to Hokkaido in winter: my first Steller's Eagle, a gorgeous adult sitting atop the harbour building, beswirled by snow and glaring around in regal fashion – he knew who was the boss here!! Awesome.
In the harbour itself we had what was to become the common staple of the coast here: Black Scoters, Goldeneye, Long-tailed Ducks, Scaup, Goosander and mergansers. And of course gulls: hundreds of Slaty-backs and a single adult Kamchatka seen too. Some Pochard and Mallard were also seen here aswell as a nice Pacific Diver and Black-necked Grebe. 2 Pacific Harbour Seals were also seen here as they swam by. As we approached the Cape itself a very nice Short-eared Owl perched up roght next to the road and showed brilliantly in the whitening conditions. At the actual Cape I walked to the lighthouse seeing a Rough-legged Buzzard hanging in the air above it and flushed a Dusky Thrush from some exposed grasses. I had to laugh inwardly at the information sign that showed the Cape in all its summery beauty as I stood shaking in a snowstorm....apparently watching the sunset here is a must-see....next time!
We drove back up across the Kiritappu Wetland but there really wasn't anything to see at this time of year. The weather began to improve as we rejoined Hwy44 and we made good progress on snow-free roads seeing 6 big-conked Middendorf's Bean Geese fly over the road and land in a distant part of a lake, 2 more Steller's Eagles and several large herds of the native yesoensis subspecies of Sika Deer (known as Ezo Deer) on the way, reaching Lodge Furen by late afternoon – we had made sure we knew what the building looked like as it isn't really well signed. We were made very welcome by our amazing hosts and warmed ourselves with green tea and sat and watched the birds coming to the feeder outside: Marsh, Coal and Japanese Tits, a Great-spotted Wood, Tree Sparrows and Brown-eared Bulbuls. We chatted to Take-san about sites to visit andhe gave us maps aplenty, after which we were shown our large room and all the facilities and after dumping our gear we set off for a quick walk to the lake behind us.
We had a nice group of gulls resting by the bridge comprising c20 Slaty-backs, 14 Glaucous, 5 Glaucous-winged and a single Kamchatcka. Several Whooper Swans, Goldeneye and Pintail were seen out on the water and as we walked along the rather slippery and holey boardwalk we saw 3 nice Dusky Thrushes, a Fox and a Sika Deer. 2ad1imm Steller's Eagles and a few White-tailed Eagles were seen going to roost on the opposite side of the lake. The temperature really began to fall as the sun set so we returned to our lodge and met up with some of the other guests staying here, mostly photographers first, birders second. Our legendary meals appeared....unfortunately mostly fish and seafood which our fellow guests found highly amusing that neither of us eat it!! Some good-natured banter with bartering fish-for-rice-and-veggies had us all happy and after chatting away and swapping gen we returned to our lovely warm room and fell into a fitful sleep.
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
24th Feb – We awoke to lovely blue skies and a equally lovely breakfast. We nipped just up round the corner from the lodge for a quick look at the little wooded area of Furen-ko Nature Centre where we had a Great Spot, a Jap Pygmy-Wood and best of all, a gorgeous asiatica Nuthatch – a real stunner in ghostly grey and white. We then headed just back past the lodge to where the eagles are fed. You can't miss it – first building on the lakeside when coming from Kushiro direction, just look for the big domed roof! It costs ¥500pp and the food is taken out at 0900, so get there early as it does get very busy and the carpark is small! There is a cafe with big glass windows so you can come in and get warm and still see the action, but it is officially closed on a Wednesday (thankfully for Dawn they let us in but no food/drink was served ).
Over the carpark the Black-eared Kites were already circling and several Steller's and White-tailed Eagles were perched up in the surrounding trees. Jap Crows were also very numerous, all awaiting feeding time! I lined up round the back of the cafe with about 70 other photographers overlooking the snow- & ice-covered lake as the sled full of fish was taken out. The crows were the first to react, followed by the kites and soon after the big boys turned up.
The Steller's weren't that fussed to start with but as the fish dwindled, the scrapping started! The size difference between the two eagle species was amazing, especially when a female Steller's was next to a presumed male White-tail! In fact, when an imm fem Steller's stood next to an adult male it was impressive! Steller's fought Steller's, White-tails got out the way, Jap Crows dived in and flew away quickly with anything they could grab. The kites steered clear, having gotten their bits early on. The weather was gorgeous and clear but absolutely freezing. I had to go into the cafe to warm my frozen fingers – even though I had thermal liners and 2 pairs of gloves on!! Haven't felt that cold since I was a little kid....
The eagles out on a good show for about an hour; in total there must've been c40adimm Steller's and c80adimm White-tails with over 80 kites and 100 crows easy at the peak time. Out on the unfrozen sections of the lake were 6ad Whoopers and a pair of Goosander. As things quietened down we decided to make a move before any of the three bus loads of photographers (!) tried to manoeuvre in the tight parking area.
We headed eastwards and hit the southern coastline of the Nemuro Peninsula and checked out the harbours en route as we encountered them before finally ending up at Cape Nosappu. We found out first 4 female Harlequins in Futaoki Harbour and at Habomai Harbour we found a stunning male Stejneger's Scoter with a small flock of Scaup. As per usual, good numbers of Black Scoter, Goldeneye, Long-tailed Ducks, Wigeon, RB Mergs and Goosander were ever-present with a few Pochard and Mallard and we also had a couple of Black-necked Grebes and a single Coot (!) in Habomai too. Gulls consisted of Slaty-backs, Glaucs and Glauc-winged.
We reached Cape Nosappu and drove up to the amusement park area just past the lighthouse. Here there is favoured rock offshore favoured by roosting cormorants and a quick scan soon produced 3imm Red-faced Cormorants amongst the commoner Pelagics, smart!! A nice Sea-Otter was also seen rounding the Cape, close inshore. We then backtracked slightly and made our way to the lighthouse and found the little seawatching hide on the back of it which gave a little respite from the wind. Here I finally bumped into Micky and Paul, great to meet them face-to-face, and we had a little seawatch before they headed back to the lodge. Offshore we had several auk species: c10 Spectacled, 1 Common and 2 Brünnich's Guillemots and c10 Ancient Murrelets. There were many stunning male Harlequins here too, aswell as flyby Pacific and Red-throated Divers. On the mammal front we also had a Pacific Harbour and a Spotted (or Largha) Seal. Again, due to tlack of sea-ice there just weren't the numbers of birds present.
We drove up the coast a bit to the next small village of Onnemoto where we pulled off onto the minor road just past the harbour and then down a small track to the coast and looked out at the three rocks offshore and soon found a couple of roosting Rock Sandpipers here along with c30o+ Harlequins and a couple more Steller's perched up on the headland. On the passerine front around the peninsula we saw c20 Oriental Crows, Tree Sparrows and single Black-backed Wag and Dusky Thrush.
Back at the lodge we had a lovely non-seafood dinner (!) and spent the evening chatting away with Micky and Paul and two new American guests Sean and Bryan, getting as much info as possible from them...which they were only too pleased to pass on. Annoyingly there hadn't been any mention of the Siberian Crane & Scaly-sided Merg on Honshu for a couple of days now...and Paul's great photos were just painful to look at!!
).Over the carpark the Black-eared Kites were already circling and several Steller's and White-tailed Eagles were perched up in the surrounding trees. Jap Crows were also very numerous, all awaiting feeding time! I lined up round the back of the cafe with about 70 other photographers overlooking the snow- & ice-covered lake as the sled full of fish was taken out. The crows were the first to react, followed by the kites and soon after the big boys turned up.
The Steller's weren't that fussed to start with but as the fish dwindled, the scrapping started! The size difference between the two eagle species was amazing, especially when a female Steller's was next to a presumed male White-tail! In fact, when an imm fem Steller's stood next to an adult male it was impressive! Steller's fought Steller's, White-tails got out the way, Jap Crows dived in and flew away quickly with anything they could grab. The kites steered clear, having gotten their bits early on. The weather was gorgeous and clear but absolutely freezing. I had to go into the cafe to warm my frozen fingers – even though I had thermal liners and 2 pairs of gloves on!! Haven't felt that cold since I was a little kid....
The eagles out on a good show for about an hour; in total there must've been c40adimm Steller's and c80adimm White-tails with over 80 kites and 100 crows easy at the peak time. Out on the unfrozen sections of the lake were 6ad Whoopers and a pair of Goosander. As things quietened down we decided to make a move before any of the three bus loads of photographers (!) tried to manoeuvre in the tight parking area.
We headed eastwards and hit the southern coastline of the Nemuro Peninsula and checked out the harbours en route as we encountered them before finally ending up at Cape Nosappu. We found out first 4 female Harlequins in Futaoki Harbour and at Habomai Harbour we found a stunning male Stejneger's Scoter with a small flock of Scaup. As per usual, good numbers of Black Scoter, Goldeneye, Long-tailed Ducks, Wigeon, RB Mergs and Goosander were ever-present with a few Pochard and Mallard and we also had a couple of Black-necked Grebes and a single Coot (!) in Habomai too. Gulls consisted of Slaty-backs, Glaucs and Glauc-winged.
We reached Cape Nosappu and drove up to the amusement park area just past the lighthouse. Here there is favoured rock offshore favoured by roosting cormorants and a quick scan soon produced 3imm Red-faced Cormorants amongst the commoner Pelagics, smart!! A nice Sea-Otter was also seen rounding the Cape, close inshore. We then backtracked slightly and made our way to the lighthouse and found the little seawatching hide on the back of it which gave a little respite from the wind. Here I finally bumped into Micky and Paul, great to meet them face-to-face, and we had a little seawatch before they headed back to the lodge. Offshore we had several auk species: c10 Spectacled, 1 Common and 2 Brünnich's Guillemots and c10 Ancient Murrelets. There were many stunning male Harlequins here too, aswell as flyby Pacific and Red-throated Divers. On the mammal front we also had a Pacific Harbour and a Spotted (or Largha) Seal. Again, due to tlack of sea-ice there just weren't the numbers of birds present.
We drove up the coast a bit to the next small village of Onnemoto where we pulled off onto the minor road just past the harbour and then down a small track to the coast and looked out at the three rocks offshore and soon found a couple of roosting Rock Sandpipers here along with c30o+ Harlequins and a couple more Steller's perched up on the headland. On the passerine front around the peninsula we saw c20 Oriental Crows, Tree Sparrows and single Black-backed Wag and Dusky Thrush.
Back at the lodge we had a lovely non-seafood dinner (!) and spent the evening chatting away with Micky and Paul and two new American guests Sean and Bryan, getting as much info as possible from them...which they were only too pleased to pass on. Annoyingly there hadn't been any mention of the Siberian Crane & Scaly-sided Merg on Honshu for a couple of days now...and Paul's great photos were just painful to look at!!
Last edited:
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
Cheers Mike - on the main roads snow wasn't really a problem but on the minor roads it was a bit trickier but nothing to worry about at all. Walking through it was more difficult!!
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
25th Feb – Another glorious morning and breakfast! The feeders were active today with Nuthatch, Great Spot, Brown-eared Bulbuls, stacks of Tree Sparrows and the usual 3 tit species. Overlooking all this was a super adult Steller's sitting in a roadside tree soaking up the warmth of the sun as it rose. We drove down to Habomai Harbour this morning with Sean and Bryan to go out on the boat cruise off Cape Nosappu. It cost ¥3500pp and was pretty good although, as I mentioned earlier, there just weren't huge numbers of seabirds close inshore this winter. Be aware though that the trip out is very weather dependent – especially upon the wind and swell conditions. The previous evening Take-san put the local news on and double-checked in the morning that the boat was going out.
We went into the harbourside office where we bought our tickets then the man waved for us to follow him which we did, a little perplexed. He led us to the toilets as the boat doesn't have any....ah, it was like before going on a long drive as a kid!! We drove back to the other side of the harbour (Take-san had shown us on a map where the office was and where the boat is docked) and you can park your car right by the quayside.
We joined 4 other photographers on board, were all given rather fetching yellow lifejackets and off we set. There is a heated lower cabin so you can escape the worst of the cold if needs be. The sun was blazing but the temperature gauge was still well below freezing!! In the harbour were several Long-tailed Ducks, mergs, Black Scoters and Scaup with Slaty-backs and Glauc-wings floating about too. On the harbour wall were several smart adult Glaucs loafing and as we gently powered out into the open sea we encountered loads of small Harlequin flocks.
The most numerous alcid was definitely Spectacled Guillemot with c50 seen, followed by Ancient Murrelets with c15 seen. We also had 1 Brünnich's Guillemot but best of all we had 1 Pigeon Guillemot and a nice Least Auklet. The views were pretty good for the majority, although taking photos in a rolling boat ain't easy! 3 Stejneger's Scoters did a fly-by and 2 Black-necked and a single Red-necked Grebe were also seen. Black Scoter were everywhere as were Pelagic Cormorants and a Pacific Harbour Seal popped up nearby but this was the only mammal we saw unfortunately. We were out for about 2hrs and I gotta admit, it did start to get a tad chilly on the way back in!
After disembarkation we headed back to Cape Nosappu lighthouse for another seawatch....pretty much the same as yesterday but with better views of the surprisingly nearby Kuril Islands. We had the obligatory photos taken at the sign and had a look at the arch momument with its eternal flame. We headed back westwards along the southern coastline to Ochiisi where we had good views of Steller's in the bay and near-misses with the bloody Sika Deer that I'm sure are as attracted to engine noise as moths are to lights!! We also had a Rough-leg here too . The views over the town from atop the Cape were impressive – as was the awesome Sika stag that stared down at us from a high ridge above the carpark as his herd moved away.
We headed back along Hwy142 towards our lodge and found a smart Brandt's Jay (apparently a potential split) on the roadside snow piles. Dodging more Sika Deer we then turned off onto a minor road signed 'Tobai' that wound through some forest with the hope of seeing some passerines. We first saw 4 DuskyThrushes in the trees so stopped for a look and soon had 2 Willow Tits close to the road whilst some soft tapping led us to a Great Spot, followed by a cracking Lesser Spot, then a Jap Pygmy-Wood and finally a brilliant White-backed Wood flew over the road. Not a bad stop at all!
We carried on further up the road, almost to the end where we found a house on the right with a variety of feeders hanging. These attracted a flock of Brown-eared Bulbuls, a couple more Brandt's Jays, Jap Tits, Marsh Tits, 2 Nuthatches but alas no Grey-bellied Bullfinches. This road rejoins the main Hwy44 (just after where the central reservation ends if coming from Kushiro). We then stopped back at Furen-ko Nature Reserve and had good views of another Great Spot, Nuthatch and Brandt's Jay on the feeder by the main building. Another relaxing evening with a great meal ensued back at Take-san's...our last unfortunately.
We went into the harbourside office where we bought our tickets then the man waved for us to follow him which we did, a little perplexed. He led us to the toilets as the boat doesn't have any....ah, it was like before going on a long drive as a kid!!
We drove back to the other side of the harbour (Take-san had shown us on a map where the office was and where the boat is docked) and you can park your car right by the quayside.We joined 4 other photographers on board, were all given rather fetching yellow lifejackets and off we set. There is a heated lower cabin so you can escape the worst of the cold if needs be. The sun was blazing but the temperature gauge was still well below freezing!! In the harbour were several Long-tailed Ducks, mergs, Black Scoters and Scaup with Slaty-backs and Glauc-wings floating about too. On the harbour wall were several smart adult Glaucs loafing and as we gently powered out into the open sea we encountered loads of small Harlequin flocks.
The most numerous alcid was definitely Spectacled Guillemot with c50 seen, followed by Ancient Murrelets with c15 seen. We also had 1 Brünnich's Guillemot but best of all we had 1 Pigeon Guillemot and a nice Least Auklet. The views were pretty good for the majority, although taking photos in a rolling boat ain't easy! 3 Stejneger's Scoters did a fly-by and 2 Black-necked and a single Red-necked Grebe were also seen. Black Scoter were everywhere as were Pelagic Cormorants and a Pacific Harbour Seal popped up nearby but this was the only mammal we saw unfortunately. We were out for about 2hrs and I gotta admit, it did start to get a tad chilly on the way back in!
After disembarkation we headed back to Cape Nosappu lighthouse for another seawatch....pretty much the same as yesterday but with better views of the surprisingly nearby Kuril Islands. We had the obligatory photos taken at the sign and had a look at the arch momument with its eternal flame. We headed back westwards along the southern coastline to Ochiisi where we had good views of Steller's in the bay and near-misses with the bloody Sika Deer that I'm sure are as attracted to engine noise as moths are to lights!! We also had a Rough-leg here too . The views over the town from atop the Cape were impressive – as was the awesome Sika stag that stared down at us from a high ridge above the carpark as his herd moved away.
We headed back along Hwy142 towards our lodge and found a smart Brandt's Jay (apparently a potential split) on the roadside snow piles. Dodging more Sika Deer we then turned off onto a minor road signed 'Tobai' that wound through some forest with the hope of seeing some passerines. We first saw 4 DuskyThrushes in the trees so stopped for a look and soon had 2 Willow Tits close to the road whilst some soft tapping led us to a Great Spot, followed by a cracking Lesser Spot, then a Jap Pygmy-Wood and finally a brilliant White-backed Wood flew over the road. Not a bad stop at all!
We carried on further up the road, almost to the end where we found a house on the right with a variety of feeders hanging. These attracted a flock of Brown-eared Bulbuls, a couple more Brandt's Jays, Jap Tits, Marsh Tits, 2 Nuthatches but alas no Grey-bellied Bullfinches. This road rejoins the main Hwy44 (just after where the central reservation ends if coming from Kushiro). We then stopped back at Furen-ko Nature Reserve and had good views of another Great Spot, Nuthatch and Brandt's Jay on the feeder by the main building. Another relaxing evening with a great meal ensued back at Take-san's...our last unfortunately.
birdboybowley
Well-known member.....apparently so ;)
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