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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Position of focus wheel (1 Viewer)

I have heard of people taking junk parts from a standard unit and converting it over, trashing the paddle thing. I have a few I may look into doing that to. For stargazing or long distance, you are at infinity anyway so doesn't hurt that. Plus if you load it up with Nyogel in the mechanism, that adds the resistance you need to not over-center too bad.
 
Regarding the Zeiss HT and SF models (and an unnamed competitor), in relation to focuser placement and balance,
see 4 pages from 'The Art of Precision' brochure, that was released with the introduction of the SF.
The 32 page 12 MB brochure can be found at: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1261/5661/files/victory_sf_-_the_art_of_precisionii_original.pdf


John

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I have always found these diagrams from Zeiss absolutely ridiculous. Or perhaps brilliant marketing to misdirect attention to proprietary design elements, regardless of their worth. I've handled all these bins on numerous occasions and haven't found that these diagrams bear on real world handling and how the bins feel to me. That said, I've always appreciated bins that have the focus knob on the far side of the bridge (i.e. away from the oculars) because they get the knob and hands away from the face allowing better air flow to prevent glasses fogging in high humidity situations and preventing interference of hands with the brim of my boonie hat, which I usually wear when birding. Finally, for anyone who is using bins for birding, I don't recommend focusing any full-sized bin with only the index finger. The second finger is longer and allows for a longer "pull" or "push" to get on the bird more efficiently and quickly.

Here is a thread I posted some years ago on this topic with more details:

For anyone who doesn't want to bother with that thread, here are pictures of how I hold the Swarovski EL, and for that matter most other bins of its size. This hold side-steps all supposed problems that Zeiss highlights in its brochure and supposedly solves with the design of the SF.

--AP
 

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Great points and tips. I agree some mfg try to make a manufacturing anomaly into a positive by explaining the heck out of it. Example, Tesla Model X " first SUV to get a perfect crash test rating" they say. Why, because it's so dang heavy from massive battery pack it can't. But, all that weight robs you of range, causes you to have massive brakes and wear, harder on tires and so forth. There is always a trade off. Even in binoculars I guess.
 
Hopefully adding to Alexis observations . . .

I’ve long been mildly bemused by what seem to be relatively common notions such as:
• There’s one best way for everyone to hold a particular binocular (explicit in the Zeiss SF’s ErgoBalance concept and the Swarovski NL’s shape), and alternatively;
• Each individual has one best way to hold a particular binocular.


For those interested in possible alternatives, see:
• The comments and links in post #948, together with post #955 at: New Product Introduction Today From Swarovski ?
• And specifically in relation to elbow positions, see the comments and images in post #74 at: Why are those dang Habicht's so BRIGHT!


And going the next step by adding an easily portable physical support, see:
• Images of a variety of options in posts #960 to #962 further down the page in the first link above
• And kabsetz’s most recent images and comments about using a finnstick at: 10x42 IS L with a finnstick


John
 
I think you are correct Canip, manufacturers have moved their focus mechanisms slightly towards the centre of binoculars; maybe this helps balance weight for the majority of people.

As someone who pretty much clamps my right index finger to my forehead for viewing stability with all binoculars, you'll understand movement of the focuser towards the objectives is not something I desire.

Observations from a few I own:
Using second(middle) and/or third(ring) fingers to focus, I've had no problem testing any of the NV/SV/NL.
With the NL 12x42 +FHR I still use the same hold and focus naturally with my third finger (which is slightly longer and more sensitive to touch than my index).

Steiner Discovery binoculars, a decade older, and my second finger falls naturally on their focusser.

The Opticron 6x30 is my oddity binocular in that the focus wheel is at the objective end of the hinge where my fourth (little) finger would rest. This is not a natural finger to focus with, nor have I learnt to use it. Instead I spread my hand so third and fourth both connect.

I do like the way Leica ultravids dioptre controls extends the focussing wheel.
 
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I think you are correct Canip, manufacturers have moved their focus mechanisms slightly towards the centre of binoculars; maybe this helps balance weight for the majority of people.

As someone who pretty much clamps my right index finger to my forehead for viewing stability with all binoculars, you'll understand movement of the focuser towards the objectives is not something I desire.

Observations from a few I own:
Using second(middle) and/or third(ring) fingers to focus, I've had no problem testing any of the NV/SV/NL.
With the NL 12x42 +FHR I still use the same hold and focus naturally with my third finger (which is slightly longer and more sensitive to touch than my index).

Steiner Discovery binoculars, a decade older, and my second finger falls naturally on their focusser.

The Opticron 6x30 is my oddity binocular in that the focus wheel is at the objective end of the hinge where my fourth (little) finger would rest. This is not a natural finger to focus with, not have I learnt to use it. Instead I spread my hand so third and fourth both connect.

I do like the way Leica ultravids dioptre controls extends the focussing wheel.
I do this too, index finger on forehead on smaller bins gives greater stability than holding at the objectives. For me personally I still find holding at the objectives gives greater stability with longer bins though.
 
@Alexis Powell
That looks similar to what I do with binos with "reverse" focuser. However I like to keep the right hand on top and close to the face to brace the bino. I actually like that design, however the older roof prism binos I own with that design are not the best. They are reasonably sharp but lack modern coatings and phase coatings. I wish there were more new models with that configuration.
6okeb7ckmh.jpg
 
I think that we all need to take a big step back and start thinking outside the box.

For far too long we’ve all been taken in by Big Bino and their conspiracy that we have to have all sorts of fancy schmancy complications like focusers!

Really people, it’s just another example of them trying to convince you that you need a whole lot more unnecessary things in your life.
Everyone knows that extra things are just extra things to go wrong - if you have a focuser, you know that sooner or later all that it's going to do is break.
However, if you don’t have a focuser then there’s nothing to go wrong. It’s perfect forever!

Also, if your so called 'Premium Binoculars' didn’t have focusers, then we wouldn’t have the constant avalanches of posts about how focusers on particular models feel.
Think of all those hundreds of virtual trees that we wouldn’t have had to cut down, to provide all those reams of virtual pages!

And also without a focuser, you can put your fingers wherever you want - we could have done without this thread altogether - even more virtual woodland saved.

Well I for one think that it’s time that we all stand up and say that we’ve had enough!


What the world needs is a good modern roof prism binocular without all the focuser hassles - and all that diopter mumbo jumbo - and all those constant migraines from worrying about where to put your fingers.

So I present to you the Tasco 8x32 Focus Free - and all for less than $50 to boot . . .
(I ask you: Would Zeiss, Leica or Swarovski ever think about providing real value like that?)


John


p.s. As soon as mine arrives, let me tell you, all my other binoculars will be going into a dumpster where they belong.

( . . . Hey, has anyone seen my new medication? . . . I thought that I left it next to that rainbow in the corner . . . Maybe it’s time I should lie down? . . . )

What a binocular should be.jpg
 
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I think that we all need to take a big step back and start thinking outside the box.

For far too long we’ve all been taken in by Big Bino and their conspiracy that we have to have all sorts of fancy schmancy complications like focusers!

Really people, it’s just another example of them trying to convince you that you need a whole lot more unnecessary things in your lives.
Everyone knows that extra things are just extra things to go wrong - if you have a focuser, you know that sooner or later all that it's going to do is break.
However, if you don’t have a focuser then there’s nothing to go wrong. It’s perfect forever!

Also, if your so called 'Premium Binoculars' didn’t have focusers, then we wouldn’t have the constant avalanches of posts about how focusers on particular models feel.
Think of all those hundreds of virtual trees that we wouldn’t have had to cut down, to provide all those reams of virtual pages!

And also without a focuser, you can put your fingers wherever you want - we could have done without this thread altogether - yet more virtual woodland saved.

Well I for one think that it’s time that we all stand up and say that we’ve had enough!


What the world needs is a good modern roof prism binocular without all the focus hassles - and all that diopter mumbo jumbo - and all those constant migraines from worrying about where to put your fingers.

So I present to you the Tasco 8x32 Focus Free - and all for less than $50 to boot . . .
(I ask you: Would Zeiss, Leica or Swarovski ever think about providing real value like that?)


John


p.s. As soon as mine arrives, let me tell you, all my other binoculars will be going into a dumpster where they belong.

(Hey, has anyone seen my new medication? . . . I thought that I left it next to that rainbow in the corner . . . Maybe it’s time I should lie down?)

View attachment 1463081
Dear John

So sorry to learn that your 'problem' has taken a turn for the worse. There have been signs of this for a while now, but we all crossed our fingers and hoped for the best, but now, the 'rainbow in the corner' confirms our worst fears.

Your problem is now too severe to respond to 'a lie down' and is caused by your location. Being upside down on the underside of the globe has clearly had unfortunate side-effects. Your problem is that you are in Perth. We have a dear friend who emigrated to Perth some years ago and she too shows signs of mental deterioration: she goes swimming almost every day!

The only solution is to move to the Northern Hemisphere where your blood circulation can return to normal and these rainbow hallucinations will rapidly fade. In the meantime, as a temporary medication I recommend you visit Dutch Trading Co In Victoria Park, 243 Albany Hwy, Victoria Park, 6100 where they have 18 different beers on tap. Start on the left and work your way through them. I predict you will feel improvements by the time you reach number 10, and if you get to number 18 none of this will seem important anymore.

Good luck
Lee
 
The only solution is to move to the Northern Hemisphere where your blood circulation can return to normal and these rainbow hallucinations will rapidly fade. In the meantime, as a temporary medication I recommend you visit Dutch Trading Co In Victoria Park, 243 Albany Hwy, Victoria Park, 6100 where they have 18 different beers on tap.
The Dutch expanded their medication setup, now they pouring from 26 taps.

 
Is this April 1 ?
Anyway, just to defend those ubiquitous future thrift store treasures, I have one of those Tascos. It sits close by in my Jeep for quickly grabbing and surveying the road, wildlife, road signs etc ( and even my passenger will use it, wink) while bouncing down the road. If it gets destroyed, no cry. My older eyes struggle a bit with focus free now, but this is for quick scanning of what is ahead. All 3 of my young kids have Bushnell or Jason perma focus binoculars. I had given them regular binoculars originally, but they got too frustrated with them and quit using. So I gave them perma focus and now they are happy and perhaps future Bird Forum members. And don't forget. STEINER still believes in a sort of focus free system.
Anyway, If binoculars are really tools and not fashion statements, I think there is a place for them. However, I do love the humor and commitment you all put into your posts ! Vive Le Perma Focus
 
Is this April 1 ?
Anyway, just to defend those ubiquitous future thrift store treasures, I have one of those Tascos. It sits close by in my Jeep for quickly grabbing and surveying the road, wildlife, road signs etc ( and even my passenger will use it, wink) while bouncing down the road. If it gets destroyed, no cry. My older eyes struggle a bit with focus free now, but this is for quick scanning of what is ahead. All 3 of my young kids have Bushnell or Jason perma focus binoculars. I had given them regular binoculars originally, but they got too frustrated with them and quit using. So I gave them perma focus and now they are happy and perhaps future Bird Forum members. And don't forget. STEINER still believes in a sort of focus free system.
Anyway, If binoculars are really tools and not fashion statements, I think there is a place for them. However, I do love the humor and commitment you all put into your posts ! Vive Le Perma Focus
Interesting! Does this Perma Focus has Individual Focus or no focus at all, if so how does it work?
 
The ones my kids use and my Jeep one are no diopter no focus wheel. But they aren't in focus until about 50 ft. But out of sharp focus, for my eyes anyway at about 600 ft., then just so so focus to infinity. There are others on here that know the mechanics of it better. Older eyes struggle with them. But for quick views or fast moving objects it's handy. The Steiner units I think are a bit different. You focus and then a certain depth of field is in focus. But it's your own eyes doing the focusing in either style so it's tiring.
 
The ones my kids use and my Jeep one are no diopter no focus wheel. But they aren't in focus until about 50 ft. But out of sharp focus, for my eyes anyway at about 600 ft., then just so so focus to infinity. There are others on here that know the mechanics of it better. Older eyes struggle with them. But for quick views or fast moving objects it's handy. The Steiner units I think are a bit different. You focus and then a certain depth of field is in focus. But it's your own eyes doing the focusing in either style so it's tiring.
Steiner produces Porro binoculars with independent focus. I use one (10x42) and for me it is in focus from 100m to 600m. For another person can be different. Also, it have a larger FOV than usual 10x42 binoculars. I use it from birds in movement, but not only.

The telescopes of a binocular are not necessarily identical and the diopter correct this difference. Maybe the brain can compensate for this kind of difference, but I do not want supplementary stress/fatigue/other.
 
I have a Swarovski Habicht 8x30 with rubber armor and individual focus. I use it as a hiking binocular in tough conditions but to my surprise it works also perfect for watching birds and marine traffic from my apartment. For close distant birding, butterflies and insects it doesn’t work though. It’s sub optimal under certain angles when there is sunlight and when using in the dark with eg streetlights around.
 
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