• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Review: ZEN Prime HD (1 Viewer)

ZEN Prime HD 8x vs 10x

Ok, I have had these for a few days now and have made as much use of them as I have had the time, so here are my comments to this point.

My usual preference for binocular magnification is 7-8x. There are times however when 10x is really nice. My main problem with 10x stuff for my preference is it typically suffers a quite shallow dof. I had an original Vortex Viper that was very good in dof for a 10x glass, but its optics were not as good as some others I have used. I currently have a ZEN ED 2 x 43 as my 10x glass. After using the beta sample Prime HD 10x42, I had hoped that the first production run would give better results in dof as compared to the beta. My goal is to see if I can find a good 10x 42-50 mm glass and one in the 7-8x30-36 mm class as the two main use glasses. The original 7x and 10x combination I used was the Swift Eaglet 7x36 and the Viper 10x 42. Had that not served to infect me with the optics bug, I could have been quite satisfied with that particular combo for quite some time.

So when got the USPS box from ZR, I first removed and opened the 10x Prime. First impression was…well the dof is improved over the ED 2 and the beta Prime. Other observations clearly showed that this is a very nice binocular. The next thing was that ZR did was to ever so slightly round the edges of the eye cup on the production model. It does not look like much, but it improved the contact comfort around the oculars immensely. Both eyes will focus to the same precision of image. In addition to the improved apparent dof, the Prime HD has a better 3-D effect than either the beta or the ED 2. It is just about on par with the 3-D effect from the Wind River 10x50 Mesas, which are a very good binocular in their own right. So…OK, it had passed what it needed to pass for me to keep the 10x. So I had at that point just about decided to send the 8x back.

Then I decided to open the 8x o:D. It trumps the 10x in just about every way I can think of, and there is nothing wrong with the 10x, as it is good enough to keep. At first I thought that what I had was a very cherry mismarked 10x unit. I next checked the fov specs and they are right with those listed by ZR. Then I got into serious comparison of the two Primes. That evolved into comparing them against whatever else I had around. In my view, the 8x Prime got better as the comparisons progressed.

If you look at a USAF resolution chart, the 10x at close distance, does show its advantage. I have a variety of targets I use in optical evaluation. To the south of me are the Klamath Hills. Our farm sits at 4,100 ft elevation and the high point of the KH is 5,730 high point of Captain Jack. Two years ago there was a lightning strike fire just below that summit. At a distance of (Google Earth) 1.7 mi the Dept of Forestry left a weather data collection station. It is white, 2 feet x 3 feet with a 5’ high instrument tower. It looks like a mail box in binoculars. At the same distance from a fire in 1998 there is a standing, burned Juniper snag that sits below the horizon. The skeleton is 16’ tall and probably 8’ in circumference. This is south by south west from me. Looking to the east there is the 6,800’ Stukel Mountain. At a distance of 3.71 (again measured with Google Earth) on the north end of the mountain there are several houses. One of these has a very large motor home. It is tan with several stripes of maroon of increasing intensity that make a good test object. At the top of this mountain at 5.1 miles there are several communications towers. So this is the sort of distance I was using.

So to be clear here, the 10x shows a bigger image, but the two have to be side by side on a tripod to see the difference. The 8x shows a sharper brighter image that is actually easier to glean detail from…even at the above distances. That is particularly evident on the weather data box in the fire and on the large motor home. I covered the end of the focuser with electrical tape and showed the 8x and 10x Primes to several people. In this too simple to be valid sample, everybody thought the 8x was the 10x. That might not go down to well with people who are convinced that the 10x will show better detail at distance. Not so here…FWIW. I see no problems of any sort with either binocular, so I don’t think it is a matter of a poor 10x…this is not a poor binocular. Maybe they are both closer to 9x than their stated magnifications, but I think that would alter the fov readings.

Both units carried over the nice focuser and the sturdy construction. Both have the same slightly more rounded edge to the eye cup. The 10x does have better eye relief than the beta sample, about 1.5 mm. This was done by using a thinner assembly around the ocular lens. This looks like the same unit in both binoculars. The eye relief is better in the 8x, so if you need eye relief, get the 8x. However, there is enough extra eye relief that I can use the 10x production model with wrap around sunglasses and I can’t with the beta sample.

Overnight in the refrigerator has no affect on focuser operation. I tried it in the freezer, originally intending to leave them for an hour. I got side tracked and forgot about them and it was 24 hours later that I remembered where I left them:eek!: . That does freeze up the hinge and the focuser. Everything thawed out fine. The betas sample was in the water trough for two days and did not leak.

The Prime bests the Vortex Razor HD (original model). The differences are most evident in the edge performance and in the flatness of the fov. For whatever reason, the Prime (both 8x and 10x) show a pretty pronounced (for a roof) 3-D effect. This difference was clearly apparent, and lacking, in the Razor. The 3-d Effect in the 8x Prime is little less than a Swift 804 type 1c Audubon 8.5x44 and the 10x Prime is little different from a Leupold Wind River Mesa 10x50 porro.

So I’m keeping the 8x. I am also pretty well done looking for a different main use personal binocular too. I simply am not going to add the extra $$$’s for whatever minute differences I’d get from a Leizeinikovski alpha. I’ll keep looking at stuff and I do still want to get my hands on a Monarch 7. I also am somewhat on the lookout for a Prime optical quality 8x32…don’t particularly care who does it first.

The eyecups could stand some attention in future production runs. There was a massive improvement to the slight rounded edge the production run has over the beta. I think some work on a bit more refined eye cup will help lots.

So, I'm headed out of here for a couple of weeks to help some friends on a large haying lease they have on the Klamath Marsh Wildlife Refuge. All I'll have is my phone. There is data service on the Marsh, but the Yamsi Ranch area is kind of hit and miss, so I may be out of ability to responmd much here after Monday.
 
I covered the end of the focuser with electrical tape and showed the 8x and 10x Primes to several people.

For the most part, that pretty much sums up my own experience. In most use I've found the 8x and 10x to be quite similar in almost all respects. One thing I did notice after extended tripod use, which I was not able to perceive handheld (even braced), was that the 10x had a super-sweet spot dead center, which clearly showed a lot more detail than the 8x. However, it was quite difficult to really nail it down. Looking at the moon, or other object with plenty of detail, it was quite obvious to see your natural head motions moving this sweet spot around as details would morph from razor sharpness to a bit more murky. Now, that's not to say that the rest of the field isn't sharp, only that I did find a smaller zone that gives the 10x detail advantage I was expecting. Curious if you're able to see the same thing Steve? I noticed no such behavior on the 8x.

Also, for you people with "no blackouts".... HOW?? I try everything and I can never get such an image. I even skip the "binocular" part and just use my left eye on the right barrel with the eyepieces all the way down to give me all possible adjustments to see if there is some mythical placement that gives me such a view. It's just not there for me. Could my eyes' physical shape be the cause of this? Could it be sample variance of the binoculars? I've found I've gotten used to the blackouts just from usage, but really, am majorly jealous of you people that can just put them up to your eyes and look to the very edges and enjoy a complete view.
 
Also, for you people with "no blackouts".... HOW?? I... Could my eyes' physical shape be the cause of this? Could it be sample variance of the binoculars? I've found I've gotten used to the blackouts just from usage, but really, am majorly jealous of you people that can just put them up to your eyes and look to the very edges and enjoy a complete view.

I think the shape of your face and the overall size of the binocular is one cause of the "blackout effect". Secondarily it is likely at least in part due to the eye relief of the binocular and how that distance agrees (or not) with what your eyes need. The size of the oculars is the big potential negative for the Prime and is one reason I noted it in the first review. A little more refinement of the eye cup design will (or at least could) lesen the blackout issue.

What it is NOT is any optical shortcoming.
 
I think the shape of your face and the overall size of the binocular is one cause of the "blackout effect". Secondarily it is likely at least in part due to the eye relief of the binocular and how that distance agrees (or not) with what your eyes need. The size of the oculars is the big potential negative for the Prime and is one reason I noted it in the first review. A little more refinement of the eye cup design will (or at least could) lesen the blackout issue.

What it is NOT is any optical shortcoming.

Read the section on "spherical aberration of the exit pupil" halfway down this page:
http://www.telescope-optics.net/eyepiece_aberration_2.htm
 
Also, for you people with "no blackouts".... HOW?? I try everything and I can never get such an image. I even skip the "binocular" part and just use my left eye on the right barrel with the eyepieces all the way down to give me all possible adjustments to see if there is some mythical placement that gives me such a view. It's just not there for me. Could my eyes' physical shape be the cause of this? Could it be sample variance of the binoculars? I've found I've gotten used to the blackouts just from usage, but really, am majorly jealous of you people that can just put them up to your eyes and look to the very edges and enjoy a complete view.

Not sure how much experience you have with binoculars, so this info may or may not apply too your situation, but this is my initial experience. Last September I got into birding and began looking for binoculars. Every pair of binoculars I looked through gave me blackouts. It seriously perplexed me to the point that I began to search for a binocular that would not give me blackouts as my number one criteria. I even sent back a Zen ED3 because of this. I can't say why for sure but now I can look through the ED3 without any blackouts and I can even turn down the eyecups some without blackouts. The same goes for every other bin that I had this problem with. My guess is that I became unconcouisly more skilled at lining up the exit pupil to my eye. I am just starting to use a scope and I am running into the same learning curve and experience blackouts alot. At first I thought that scopes were just unusable for me and couldn't imagine how anyone could use them, but now it is becoming easier and more effortless for me and I am enjoying it very much.
 
ZEN Prime HD 8x vs 10x

So…OK, it had passed what it needed to pass for me to keep the 10x. So I had at that point just about decided to send the 8x back.

Then I decided to open the 8x o:D. It trumps the 10x in just about every way I can think of, and there is nothing wrong with the 10x, as it is good enough to keep. At first I thought that what I had was a very cherry mismarked 10x unit. I next checked the fov specs and they are right with those listed by ZR. Then I got into serious comparison of the two Primes. That evolved into comparing them against whatever else I had around. In my view, the 8x Prime got better as the comparisons progressed.

So to be clear here, the 10x shows a bigger image, but the two have to be side by side on a tripod to see the difference. The 8x shows a sharper brighter image that is actually easier to glean detail from…even at the above distances. That is particularly evident on the weather data box in the fire and on the large motor home. I covered the end of the focuser with electrical tape and showed the 8x and 10x Primes to several people. In this too simple to be valid sample, everybody thought the 8x was the 10x. That might not go down to well with people who are convinced that the 10x will show better detail at distance. Not so here…FWIW. I see no problems of any sort with either binocular, so I don’t think it is a matter of a poor 10x…this is not a poor binocular. Maybe they are both closer to 9x than their stated magnifications, but I think that would alter the fov readings.

And a new card is dealt! I had just about convinced myself to get an 8x to go along with my 10's. I almost ordered it this morning, but decided to hold off a bit. And now............??? Steve, I get the impression that for you it would be redundant to carry around the 8 and the 10 in the Primes. Right now I carry my 7x42's on my chest and the 10x slung over my shoulder and this combo works well for me except for they are opposite focusers and it kinda screws with me switching back and forth. Not sure if there would be any advantage to carry around a 7x and a 8x.
 
Last edited:
For the most part, that pretty much sums up my own experience. In most use I've found the 8x and 10x to be quite similar in almost all respects. One thing I did notice after extended tripod use, which I was not able to perceive handheld (even braced), was that the 10x had a super-sweet spot dead center, which clearly showed a lot more detail than the 8x. However, it was quite difficult to really nail it down. Looking at the moon, or other object with plenty of detail, it was quite obvious to see your natural head motions moving this sweet spot around as details would morph from razor sharpness to a bit more murky. Now, that's not to say that the rest of the field isn't sharp, only that I did find a smaller zone that gives the 10x detail advantage I was expecting. Curious if you're able to see the same thing Steve? I noticed no such behavior on the 8x.

Also, for you people with "no blackouts".... HOW?? I try everything and I can never get such an image. I even skip the "binocular" part and just use my left eye on the right barrel with the eyepieces all the way down to give me all possible adjustments to see if there is some mythical placement that gives me such a view. It's just not there for me. Could my eyes' physical shape be the cause of this? Could it be sample variance of the binoculars? I've found I've gotten used to the blackouts just from usage, but really, am majorly jealous of you people that can just put them up to your eyes and look to the very edges and enjoy a complete view.

All the way down?

I'll wait for the "all the way up" people to chime in before I say a thing.............
 
All the way down?

I'll wait for the "all the way up" people to chime in before I say a thing.............

Sorry if I wasn't clear on that, but what I mean is when testing on the tripod I tried a few times with the eyecups all the way down so that I could move my head and get the full range of adjustment possible, from my eyes several inches back to mashed up right against the oculars. This let me visually see the full range optically, so I could see what was too close or too far and how it affected the FOV and blackouts and that sort of thing. Regardless of positioning, I was never able to find a spot where I could look to the very top without blackout, then without moving my head, look to the bottom without blackout. For normal use, I've got the eyecups fully extended, and get a "pretty good" ability to look around, but certainly not to the edges without "peaking" by moving the bins up or down slightly.
 
"So to be clear here, the 10x shows a bigger image, but the two have to be side by side on a tripod to see the difference.

The 8x shows a sharper brighter image that is actually easier to glean detail from…even at the above distances...

I covered the end of the focuser with electrical tape and showed the 8x and 10x Primes to several people. In this too simple to be valid sample, everybody thought the 8x was the 10x. That might not go down to well with people who are convinced that the 10x will show better detail at distance. Not so here…FWIW.."
--------------------

Are the people making this blind conclusion looking through mounted glass/hand held or a combination?

In the first sentence I've quoted you allude to minimal difference only discernable betwixt the twain whilst on a mount. Then in the second sentence you acknowledge that the 8x is brighter. (which makes sense as image dims when magnification goes up.)

I'm not quite clear on the fourth sentence of the parameters involved in the random look about by various impartial subjects.
 
Last edited:
Nixterdemus;2505590Are the people making this [i said:
blind[/i] conclusion looking through mounted glass/hand held or a combination?

The viewing was handheld, elbows usually braced on the side of the bed of the pickup. I am also not sure you would survive a blind test either with thinking the higher magnifications is going to be better ;). When we know beforehand what magnification (or what brand) we are looking at, it can kick in a whole load of preconceptions. So if we think before hand that the 10x will show us more detail, it usually does. Now that certainly does not apply universally and some folks really do like the extra magnification

One time, 2001 or thereabouts, there was a Brunton display at the local Bald Eagle Conference. The fellow put on a couple of workshops/seminars each day. This was just the time Brunton was releasing their then all new Eterna line of binoculars. Part of what he did throughout the show was to blind test people, he wound up with hundreds of comparisons (there was a bit of a protocol involved). He had Eterna Binoculars, all unmarked as to magnification in 7, 8, 9, and 10x. He might have had some 12x too, but I don't remember that detail. Even people who scoffed mightly at the notion that "they could easily spot the 10x" almost always chose the 7x or the 8x as the best binocular (the looks on some of the faces was priceless). The 7-8x won about 70% or so of those blind test face offs, and 7x was the majority of that. Those that did spot the 10x almost always did so by looking close in rather than further out. That sort of data is why Brunton chose 7x. That marketers have successfully convinced people that they will see more detail with more magnification is why 7x is, if not dead, certainly not real healthy. But if you like 10-12x for whatever reasons, then that's what you should use.

I will reiterate this is a too small, and too uncontrolled sort of a comparison to be taken as anything other than anectdotal. I does tell what some eyes saw. Personally If I need a tripod, I'm looking for 15x to really get the benefit of the extra detail and steadiness.
 
Last edited:
Steve, I get the impression that for you it would be redundant to carry around the 8 and the 10 in the Primes. Right now I carry my 7x42's on my chest and the 10x slung over my shoulder and this combo works well for me except for they are opposite focusers and it kinda screws with me switching back and forth. Not sure if there would be any advantage to carry around a 7x and a 8x.

The 8x Prime I have makes a lot of my stuff redundant (I suppose it already was to a great extent). I could easily go with my Baush & Lomb 7x26 for a smaller binocular, the Theron 8x32 for a midsize, and the 8x Prime as the full size. I'd probably keep the Swift Audubon 8.5x44 just for the sake of nostalgia. Probably I'd keep the ED 2 10x 43 since I have it and it's paid for.

I got into the "less gear is better" mode long ago. I used to encumber myself with something to fit every ocassion. Now there is no way in hades I'd pack two full size binoculars ;). I sometimes have the 10x in the backpack and the 7x26 on a harness, but those situations are getting less frequent...the Theron usually goes by itself in weight or space saving situations. The 8x Prime is going to go into the major use mode now just to get it wrung out as best as I can.
 
"Those that did spot the 10x almost always did so by looking close in rather than further out. "

Exactly the point I was coming around to as the length of your views 1.7/3.71 miles would indeed favor an 8 over a 10, as a 7x would favor viewing stars, if handheld, but I use 10/12/15x w/o tripod from backyard -150 yds as my eyes/brain can adjust to slight movement as if standing on a boat. However, the farther the distance the more fuzzy/dull the higher magnification.

I'm not sure about me being able to detect various powers higher/lower a blind/unknown x factor, but as you previously mentioned a difference was noted in the use of tripods I take at the same distance.

Even w/tripods I see the difference in observing flying birds w/mechanical spring loaded tension pan/scan head and a fluid head.

As always you're thorough and I thank you for the review and addressing my inquiries.
 
Not surprised at all with your "blind test" findings SteveC. Thanks for the detailed reports too. People's preconceived notions lead to narrowmindedness most of the time IME.
 
Initial report, Zen's have progressed considerably with the introduction of the Primes! My only quibble with fit and finish is the diopter moves to freely. If it doesn't have a lock it needs alot more friction! Mine is to loose and i can see it moving inadvertantly, this would be a pain and is if you have to constantly worry about diopter shift! The bins are very well balanced and have great feel in the hands. Every thing about them physically save the diopter mechanism is of good quality. Eye cups are very comfortable, armor is of good quality and i love the swaro type coloring. Focus tension is smooth and has good dampness. Center hinge is tight once set forget about it! Excessories are functionable, the case serves it's purpose and wasn't an after thought. Optics wise i will be brief. Unfortunately the left barrel is not quite up to snuff so i will consentrate on the right. Color, contrast reminds me of the Pentax 10x43 dcf ed i used to have. To me for a bin these are spot on and to my liking not to warm or cool just right! Great job! Center sharpness is crisp and highly detailed with no color fringing visible. A very, very wide distortion free view with a very flat field. What little softning there is at the edges in everyday use will never be noticed. What you see in the center goes right to the very edge!!! These are really comfy bins with outstanding optical properties that before could never have been gotten at this price point! I don't understand why people have been having problems with these they are not fussy at all, very easy eyeplacement ample eye relief even for 10's!!! The QC things i understand, this particular bin doesn't have the relaxed view of my Swaro's because of the difference in barrels. My eye's are trying to compensate for the difference and it causes a little strain! If these were 8's and both barrels were like the right i could see me selling one of my Swarovski's!!! Bryce...
 
"Those that did spot the 10x almost always did so by looking close in rather than further out. "

Exactly the point I was coming around to as the length of your views 1.7/3.71 miles would indeed favor an 8 over a 10, as a 7x would favor viewing stars, if handheld, but I use 10/12/15x w/o tripod from backyard -150 yds as my eyes/brain can adjust to slight movement as if standing on a boat. However, the farther the distance the more fuzzy/dull the higher magnification.

I'm not sure about me being able to detect various powers higher/lower a blind/unknown x factor, but as you previously mentioned a difference was noted in the use of tripods I take at the same distance.

Even w/tripods I see the difference in observing flying birds w/mechanical spring loaded tension pan/scan head and a fluid head.

As always you're thorough and I thank you for the review and addressing my inquiries.

Nix, it might be you and me against the world here. The overwhelming desire that I see for a 10x or greater glass is for additional reach. That is the reason I included the distances. After you get past the distance you can read license plates with a 10x, there is no practical difference..."that I can see"...in the 8x vs 10x comparison. So I think lots of folks complicate their gear wanting to add a 10x. Now some do like the extra magnification...can use it...or whatever ...they should stick with it. It is just my never to be humble opinion that there are lots of 10x binoculars in front of eyes that would be as well or even better served with 7-8x. Look in the hunting optics forums and there are endless questions about..."I'm headed out west where I need more reach than I can get with my 8x, what 10x do you guys recommend?" Even here the overwhelming desire for 10x seems to me to be for extending reach.

The Bald Eagle conference data was handheld. That is how most of binocular use occurs, not on a tripod. If I need to use a tripod to see a difference, it is a difference that is ultimately of little importance to me.
 
Homemade Winged Eyecups for my Primes. Made them out of a bicycle inner tube. Took a couple trys to get them cut right, but they work fine and I had the inner tube laying around.
 

Attachments

  • winged eyecups (1 of 1).jpg
    winged eyecups (1 of 1).jpg
    148.6 KB · Views: 270
Nix, it might be you and me against the world here. The overwhelming desire that I see for a 10x or greater glass is for additional reach. That is the reason I included the distances. After you get past the distance you can read license plates with a 10x, there is no practical difference..."that I can see"...in the 8x vs 10x comparison. So I think lots of folks complicate their gear wanting to add a 10x. Now some do like the extra magnification...can use it...or whatever ...they should stick with it. It is just my never to be humble opinion that there are lots of 10x binoculars in front of eyes that would be as well or even better served with 7-8x. Look in the hunting optics forums and there are endless questions about..."I'm headed out west where I need more reach than I can get with my 8x, what 10x do you guys recommend?" Even here the overwhelming desire for 10x seems to me to be for extending reach.

The Bald Eagle conference data was handheld. That is how most of binocular use occurs, not on a tripod. If I need to use a tripod to see a difference, it is a difference that is ultimately of little importance to me.
This is very true Steve, but i will also add it is alot harder to spec a 10x binocular than it is a 8x!!! That's why some manufacturers 8's are better than there 10's!!! And vise a versa!!! I was hoping that the Prime 10x would fill a nitch? In hind sight it sounds like the 8x is the cream of the crop!??? Bryce...
 
and...

Bryce: could you give a few specifics about what you mean when you report that one barrel does not equal the other in terms of quality view? I got the general idea but would like to hear some specifics.

I would like to see a locking diopter as well but if folks bird alone (no spouse or birding partner), that may not be as much of an issue as I think. Still, would like to have that option.

Thanks Bryce.

John
 
Bryce: could you give a few specifics about what you mean when you report that one barrel does not equal the other in terms of quality view? I got the general idea but would like to hear some specifics.

I would like to see a locking diopter as well but if folks bird alone (no spouse or birding partner), that may not be as much of an issue as I think. Still, would like to have that option.

Thanks Bryce.

John
John, the diopter doesn't need to lock it just needs more friction to keep it in place. Just putting the bin in it's case and taking it out caused it to move! Image quality between barrels? Sure, using charts and a few other graphs i have made, the left barrel isn't as sharp as the right. I do this with both eyes using each barrel together and independent of each other. So what i see with my left eye i can also see with the right. Basically i test each barrel individually with both eyes. I do this over a time period letting my eyes rest in between. There's gonna be sample variations even between barrels on an idividual binocular, it comes down to tolerences and where the company lets it pass as spec or within there specs! Unfortunately for us as consumers these cutoffs or within manufacturers specs often result in subpar samples. That's why you here people sending units back in until they get a really good one!? I will say it again if the left barrel was as good as the right on these 10's you would see one of my Swarovski's in the classified section! But for now my Swaro's are my bin of choice and nothing against ZenRay i just think Swarovski specs there glass to tighter tolereces. Bryce...
 
Don't take this the wrong or blow it out of proportion!!! It's not like these are bad, quite the opposite! I'm just trying to be honest in evaluating a bin! I plan on posting more down the road! These are good bins and they are being compared to some of the best on the market! It's an initial report and these are just some of my findings! There would be no reason other than to see if the diopter could be tightened up to send these back!!! The variences between barrels is minute but, to me comparing to swaros is evident! I still need some more time! I do wish i went 8's but that's hind sight!!! I would say if your on the fence grab em, alot of glass $$$$!!! Bryce...
 
Warning! This thread is more than 11 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top