My experience in the area was extremely limited, having only spent one week in the area – ever – but as there have been no other replies, I’ll have a go.
DMM (the OH) and I went on a (
very low-key) birding vacation to the Riviera Maya back in April 2003. We stayed at an all-inclusive sort of place (don’t do that very often, with good reason…) so naturally we were keen to get out somewhere for excursions.
You’ll find, unfortunately, that the whole area has been severely developed, and the wildlife has been largely turfed out. The one good place we could find that was easily accessible was the
Jardin Botanico Dr. Alfredo Barrera, which is just over 1 kilometre south of the town of Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo. We rented a car, just for a day, to get there; but as it is right on the main Cancún to Chetumal highway, you could easily get a taxi to take you there – perhaps even a mini-bus.
I was not overly impressed with the amount of wildlife there – I noted that there were birds around, but the thickness of the vegetation made them very hard to see. On the other hand, other peoples’ reports (see, for example, the reviews at
TripAdvisor), mention monkeys and coatis as being easily seen. We didn’t see any mammals, but then, we were largely concentrating on the avian life. On that score, what we saw get there was certainly
different than what you might find around your average hotel – I recorded two species of Trogon, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Red-crowned Ant-tanager, and a few others. We also came across a column of army ants on the march, which is usually a sign of a healthy tropical ecosystem.
Another advantage of the
Jardin Botanico is that there is a good trail system, and even an aerial walkway (apparently erected since our visit – we had to climb up a rickety ladder to a small platform - not for the faint of heart!).
Generally speaking, any of the Mayan temple sites in the interior (Cobá is a good example) can be good for birds – they have the dual advantage of being protected areas, and having large structures that can serve as ready-made viewing platforms! We went to one such place, called Ek-balaam – it was a free excursion that came with our vacation package.
However, I don’t recommend these “included” trips, if you’re at all interested in wildlife; thanks to all the stops along the way at “allied” properties (in order to fill the bus), plus the mandatory stop to allow us to purchase the finest in Mexican handicrafts (made in China, I’m sure), we didn’t end up reaching the place until almost noon – a ludicrous time to be doing
anything (except, perhaps, napping) in lowland Mexico! There were birds, all right, but it was a bit difficult to look at them while melting in the heat. Very frustrating. Arrange your own transport, get to the site by 9:00 at the latest, if you want to get anything out of such an excursion. (Obviously, much earlier than that would be better – but check opening times. Some attractions are gated, and open rather late, by a bird-watcher’s standards.)
The other famous site is the
Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK), which is south of Tulum. I knew about this place in the lead-up to our vacation, but what I found out was not promising – it seemed that access was a real problem. Perhaps less-so now – the seem to have opened up some
accommodation on-site, and offer
kayak tours in the lagoon there (wish I could have done
that back in 2003! )
A really useful reference to get, if you can, is Steve Howell’s A Bird-finding Guide to Mexico (Cornell University Press, 1999). It covers Jardin Botanico Dr. Alfredo Barrera, and quite a few other sites on the Yucatán Peninsula.