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Help Mexico (1 Viewer)

badapplegill

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I'm going to Riviera Maya in September can anyone recommend anywhere in the local area to go visit not just for birds but wildlife in general.

Thanks
Gill:D
 
My experience in the area was extremely limited, having only spent one week in the area – ever – but as there have been no other replies, I’ll have a go.

DMM (the OH) and I went on a (very low-key) birding vacation to the Riviera Maya back in April 2003. We stayed at an all-inclusive sort of place (don’t do that very often, with good reason…) so naturally we were keen to get out somewhere for excursions.

You’ll find, unfortunately, that the whole area has been severely developed, and the wildlife has been largely turfed out. The one good place we could find that was easily accessible was the Jardin Botanico Dr. Alfredo Barrera, which is just over 1 kilometre south of the town of Puerto Morelos, Quintana Roo. We rented a car, just for a day, to get there; but as it is right on the main Cancún to Chetumal highway, you could easily get a taxi to take you there – perhaps even a mini-bus.

I was not overly impressed with the amount of wildlife there – I noted that there were birds around, but the thickness of the vegetation made them very hard to see. On the other hand, other peoples’ reports (see, for example, the reviews at TripAdvisor), mention monkeys and coatis as being easily seen. We didn’t see any mammals, but then, we were largely concentrating on the avian life. On that score, what we saw get there was certainly different than what you might find around your average hotel – I recorded two species of Trogon, Ivory-billed Woodcreeper, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Red-crowned Ant-tanager, and a few others. We also came across a column of army ants on the march, which is usually a sign of a healthy tropical ecosystem.

Another advantage of the Jardin Botanico is that there is a good trail system, and even an aerial walkway (apparently erected since our visit – we had to climb up a rickety ladder to a small platform - not for the faint of heart!).

Generally speaking, any of the Mayan temple sites in the interior (Cobá is a good example) can be good for birds – they have the dual advantage of being protected areas, and having large structures that can serve as ready-made viewing platforms! We went to one such place, called Ek-balaam – it was a free excursion that came with our vacation package.

However, I don’t recommend these “included” trips, if you’re at all interested in wildlife; thanks to all the stops along the way at “allied” properties (in order to fill the bus), plus the mandatory stop to allow us to purchase the finest in Mexican handicrafts (made in China, I’m sure), we didn’t end up reaching the place until almost noon – a ludicrous time to be doing anything (except, perhaps, napping) in lowland Mexico! There were birds, all right, but it was a bit difficult to look at them while melting in the heat. Very frustrating. Arrange your own transport, get to the site by 9:00 at the latest, if you want to get anything out of such an excursion. (Obviously, much earlier than that would be better – but check opening times. Some attractions are gated, and open rather late, by a bird-watcher’s standards.)

The other famous site is the Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK), which is south of Tulum. I knew about this place in the lead-up to our vacation, but what I found out was not promising – it seemed that access was a real problem. Perhaps less-so now – the seem to have opened up some accommodation on-site, and offer kayak tours in the lagoon there (wish I could have done that back in 2003! )

A really useful reference to get, if you can, is Steve Howell’s A Bird-finding Guide to Mexico (Cornell University Press, 1999). It covers Jardin Botanico Dr. Alfredo Barrera, and quite a few other sites on the Yucatán Peninsula.
 
I too will not claim a lot of experience in the area, but I won't let that stop me from throwing in my two cents. If you are close to Cancun, you may want to consider a trip to Isla Contoy. I don't know how good the birding will be in September, but the Island has a frigate bird colony (and a nice viewing platform). You are sure to see a lot of Iguana. Manta rays should be easy to view from the beach and/or the dock. Some of the boats that take you out include the opportunity to do a little snorkeling along the way (lunch and libations were also included).

JSO
 
My information is even older, and I have not been exactly where you plan to go, but if you have the opportunity, you could possibly go to the town of Palenque for a night or two. The access road to the Mayan ruin site of the same name was very good for an early morning visit. There were some other birding sites in the same area which were mentioned in the Howell guide mentioned above.

Niels
 
Hi, Gill -

Sorry I didn't catch your post sooner. My wife and I have been to the Yucatan Peninsula twice, latest venture was winter of '08. I posted a trip report on the Loco Gringo site but I couldn't find it archived when I checked months later. I can repost it here if others care to read it or send it to you directly. We also went in '06, for which I also have a trip report.
We rented a car both times, did some camping on our first trip. In '06, our trip took us south from Cancun and west to the Calakmul ruins. In '08, we went west to Chichen Itza, north to Rio Lagartos and south to Vigia Chico road. That should cover the area you are planning to go to.

Steve
 
I was in Playa del Carmen in May. The beaches are getting built up but there are still lots of places worth visiting. I doubt you'll see many mammals, though.

The Coba ruins are great. But if you go on a weekend, go early - the crowds arrive at around 10:00 a.m. Saw quite a few birds there and some lizards but no mammals.

The ruins at Muyil can also be pretty good for birds and the site's usually deserted. There's a long birding boardwalk with an observation tower also.

Walking around the Playacar section of Playa del Carmen in the morning turned up birds and several agoutis.

Best place, though, was the Jardin Botanico Dr. Alfredo Barrera on the main Cancun-PlayadelCarmen road just south of Puerto Morelos. The trees around the parking area inside had birds and monkeys, while the ground had iguanas. Moths everywhere. There's a tower there, too.

You can see trip reports and photos by going to my blog and then putting "Yucatan" in the search box (upper left of page).

Jeff
www.jeffincypress.blogspot.com
 
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