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Cruising the Amazon and West Indies from London and back! (3 Viewers)

Dave Williams

Well-known member
It's some many months ago since we completed our trip and to be honest, the idea of writing a report on a 6 week trip was all together too vaunting straight afterwards. I had several thousand images to work through and other priorities too, however, as it was wet today I decided to make a start after all.
There seems to be very few shared experiences of cruising trips, they are after all probably not too oriented towards birding so I thought I would share my findings should anyone be considering such a holiday.
The report is on my Blog here :-

http://davewilliamsnaturephotography.blogspot.co.uk

hope you find it interesting and informative. It might take a while to complete !
 
I have been touting cruises for birdwatchers for years.
You will find it hard to beat cruises to Spitzbergen via Norway,Iceland and Greenland,and the Canaries via the Bay of Biscay and Portugal.
Any Carribean cruise is great for land based birdwatching on port days.

Better to go on a smaller ship like the Discovery or Fred Olsen rather than a floating block of flats fun ship.
The smaller vessels have lower prom decks so you can get closer views of birds over the water.

Bon voyage
 
Part two is now posted. We have reached the mouth of the Amazon.

http://davewilliamsnaturephotography.blogspot.co.uk

The journey south through the Bay of Biscay and beyond was disappointing, perhaps because of the winter storms we had in December 2013. Day birding trips from the boat all depends on where you are visiting and how long the stop is of course. Places the boats stop are often totally unsuitable too. Didn't see many birds in Amsterdam either which was a shame. The one thing you can't afford to do is miss your sailing time because the boat waits for no one !
 
That Turkey Vulture seems to have a lot of yellow in its head. It might just be a different subspecies, but I am flagging it up for those who knows more than I.

Niels
 
Part 5 now done, I'm wondering who's still with me ! However, if you haven't looked you might be tempted to if I tell you this part has an extremely exotic bird photograph in it .
 
Hi Dave. Enjoying the report , but got to say it isn't selling cruising to me ! Ignoring the limitations for birding/photography , I assume you enjoyed the overall experience ?
We're back to the Gambia this winter ,as I think you are too ? Did you find somewhere good to stay up-river ?
 
Hi Dave. Enjoying the report , but got to say it isn't selling cruising to me ! Ignoring the limitations for birding/photography , I assume you enjoyed the overall experience ?
We're back to the Gambia this winter ,as I think you are too ? Did you find somewhere good to stay up-river ?

Glad you are enjoying the read Bill, you'll have to stick with it for a short while to find my overall opinions of cruising both as a holiday and as a birding option.
For The Gambia, I'm staying at my favourite Sunset Beach (good price, clean but really for the views at breakfast !) for three nights, then taking a trip to Tendaba for three days/2 nights (decided that was the limit to test endurance) then 9 nights at Farankuku Lodge which looks very good indeed and is in a different area to the one I am used to. I particularly want to spend some time at Kartong.
Farankuku offer a good birding package and they are also organising Tendaba for me.Looks very comfortable and the food looks good too !
I'm there with a birding mate but the guilt of escaping the winter for two weeks and leaving Claire in the cold was too much so I persuaded her to join us for the second week on the understanding I'll be out birding all day while she soaks up the rays.
 
The final part of my blog is now available to read !
http://davewilliamsnaturephotography.blogspot.co.uk
I have been asked would I recommend a cruise as a birding option, after reading the final instalment of the blog you might ask if I would ever go on a cruise again !!!
The answer to the first part is in many ways the same as the answer to cruising in general. They are a great way of sampling taster visits to a variety of destinations all in one go and without the hassle of unpacking you get with land based touring. Maybe I chose too long a trip for my introduction to cruising, maybe the schedule was not the right one with too much time spent at sea.
From a birding prospective much will depend on where you visit and at what time of year. Sailing the Bay of Biscay during migration periods might be more rewarding than the depths of winter, however, we had been to sunnier climes and still not seen that much activity out at sea. The bigger the ship you are on the further you are from the water too and I imagine photography will certainly be more challenging too. A big ship limits the ports of destination as well, and of course whatever the ship, unless you are tendered ashore, the port of call is possibly not exactly a birding paradise.You might find yourself in a city centre !
Having a non birding partner, I do have to consider her needs too. In actual fact, cruising is certainly an attractive proposition to Claire. She enjoys getting dressed up for dinner, nice restaurants whatever. I'm happy staying in a mud hut surrounded by wildlife and dressed in shorts and t-shirt.Being more interested in capturing decent images in camera I am probably happier to stake out the same patch on a regular basis , trying to find species and their territories and watching their habits. A bird lister might be happy to see a bird, tick it off their list and move on.
In actual fact we have already booked our next cruise trip. This time to the Far East and visiting major cities in a variety of countries we have never been to before. I don't expect it will be very birding friendly and have decided to take less camera gear than I would have on other trips. This time we are avoiding more than one day spent totally at sea, and we are boarding huge vessel with far more choice and sophistication than the Marco Polo had to offer. That said, I wouldn't dismiss a return on the old boat. It has a certain charm of a previous age and it size makes for a much more intimate experience. With far fewer passengers the chance of bumping in to people on a daily basis is almost certain.
Our Amazon Cruise is something we will remember for the rest of our lives and hopefully some of the friendships we made will stay with us too.
The Marco Polo is due to sail the same trip again next January. I won't be on it, neither hopefully will some of the obnoxious management on board the vessel. Hope my report will give prospective passengers a sense of what to expect.
Dave
 
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