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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Habicht: 8x30 or 10x40? (1 Viewer)

I personally have never had a GA model. I was only making the switch of eye cups between traditional leatherette models. And even then it was only between the one older Habicht that I have ( a 1965 10x40), and current Habichts - the 8x30 and a 7x42. Based on that ( and how easily they switched out) I made the assumption that Swarovski has stayed with the same threading and ring size and that all of them were interchangeable as far as being able to be screwed on the threads. I now realize that that assumption may have been erroneous. I knew the ER was probably different, but it did make sense to me that Swarovski would make this simple and easy for manufacturing.

I think that Brock and others are mainly interested in interchanging because they would like the option of using the bigger and better GA eye cups on a leatherette Habicht. It looks a bit odd though. The habicht takes a little technique to use anyway, and I've got the hang of using the little eye cups so I haven't even bothered to interchange...despite my Simeon brow bones which I use as handy anchor points for most binocs.
 
OK, it took some time but here are the data from my kitchen weightscale:
7x42 678 and the GA 764 gram; 10x40 687 and GA 794 gram.

Hope this helps!

Jan
 
Hi Jan,

Good data! Thanks.
For me, it confirm what I felt with the non GAs I have had: a little too light for a 10x.

PHA
 
Hi, does anybody know when these Habichts became waterproof? I have an older set of 10x40s with a serial of 124597 (1960's? I emailed swaro about them and they could only tell me they were pre-1980; also they did not tell me anything more than "the newer ones are waterproof", with no specificity) and assume they are not waterproof, but I know that the new version is. When did that happen? Any serial numbers to look out for if I wanted the certifiably waterproof version?

The view on mine is outstanding and my scale reads 582g without lens covers, rain guards, or straps (which I don't have anyway).

Thanks in advance!

-dw
 
Look for two little screw heads on the top of the front bridge near the body. Those seal the ports used for purging and nitrogen charging. My guess is that all Habichts with those screws at least started out waterproof. Habichts without the screws probably were not.

My earliest Habicht brochure dates from 1982. Photos of the binoculars in that brochure do not show the screw heads and there is no claim made for full waterproofness. Instead they are described as "dust and splash-proof". At the time "splash-proof" was another way of saying " pretty well sealed, but not waterproof".
 
delwain,

I should have mentioned that by the time I bought my first Habicht in 1986 the ports were in place and Swarovski claimed they were 100% waterproof, so waterproofing must have been introduced between 1982 and 1986.

Henry
 
delwain,

I should have mentioned that by the time I bought my first Habicht in 1986 the ports were in place and Swarovski claimed they were 100% waterproof, so waterproofing must have been introduced between 1982 and 1986.

Henry

Henry,

As it seems you have owned a Habicht or two in your time, and I can't recall your assessment - what do you think of them? They, like the Nikon SE's, have acquired an almost mythic status.... do you concur with the platitudes?
 
Sorry James, I just noticed your question.

All my experience with Habichts was between about 1986 and 1995. I still have one pair of 8x30s, but I wouldn't want any more of that vintage. The very strong yellow bias of the Swarovski "Transmax" AR coating used on them then was just too unnatural. I'm sure i'd like the current coatings much better, but that would still leave other complaints, like unpleasantly short eye relief on the 8x30/10x40 models, stiff uncomfortable eyecups on the leatherette models and too narrow AFOV on the 7x42. Even so, if my personal favorite model Habicht, the 8x30 rubber armored, were still available with current Swarovski AR coatings that would be a temptation.

Henry
 
10x40s or 8x30s

I echo Henry's post. At one time I have had experience with all models, armored or not. The yellow bias never bothered me. The last one I let go was the 8x30, and I wish I had kept it. First, understand I'm a fossil and an unrepentant user of quality porros. I don't believe in paying 10 times more for a roof that doesn't outperform (for my eyes) a 60 year old porro. The Zeiss 7x42 Dialyt is all the roof I need.

Second, my experience tells me that as one grows older, several things happen, all related to muscles and steadiness, and shrinking pupils. If Swarovski made a current Habicht in 6x30, my checkbook would suddenly appear.

The 8x30 is compact and easy to handle. It weighs less, and its FOV is good.
There will come a time when all the commentators on BF with nerves of steel and eyes like eagles will seek solace in something that just plain works well.
That something is the 8x30.

By saying this I'm not being critical of those in BF holding different opinions. Scratch your itches anyway you want. I'm all for you. We live like children with an insatiable sweet tooth in front of a huge candy counter. So much to choose and such little time to do it.

John
 
Great post John. I have zero experience with the Habicht but the last two paragraphs are something I certainly agree with. With your permission I would like to use your last one as my signature line. So perfectly stated.
 
I had the Habicht and sold it. It is a beautiful little binocular in almost all respects, a joy to use, although I'm not as expert on the technical side as Frank and John and can't comment on the Science Bits.
The short eye-relief didn't bother me, although eyelash goo gets on the oculars occasionally. The stiff focusser wasn't a problem either, it's just a slightly stiffer focusser than others. You don't need a wrench to turn it, my dainty index finger was sufficient. Mine were bought last year, and there was certainly no yellow bias. Sharp, bright and neutral. Beautiful build.
What I couldn't get on with was the stray light/glare (or whatever you want to call it). This may be worse at certain latitudes and in certain lighting conditions...low sun, greyed-out skies dispersing sunlight all over the place, etc. It's just my personal peeve at the moment. Maybe it's my eyes, or maybe I'm impossible to please.
 
Sorry James, I just noticed your question.

All my experience with Habichts was between about 1986 and 1995. I still have one pair of 8x30s, but I wouldn't want any more of that vintage. The very strong yellow bias of the Swarovski "Transmax" AR coating used on them then was just too unnatural. I'm sure i'd like the current coatings much better, but that would still leave other complaints, like unpleasantly short eye relief on the 8x30/10x40 models, stiff uncomfortable eyecups on the leatherette models and too narrow AFOV on the 7x42. Even so, if my personal favorite model Habicht, the 8x30 rubber armored, were still available with current Swarovski AR coatings that would be a temptation.

Henry

Henry,

The softer eyecups from the "Gummi" 10x40 fit the 8x30 model. A member posted a photo of his 8x30 with the 10x40's green eyecups after I asked him about it (there's only 1mm difference in ER between the two models).

Provided Swaro will sell the "Gummi" eyecups separately, there's a way to get the older rubber armored version's eyecups on the leatherette 8x30 Habicht with the latest AR coatings. Best of both worlds.

Brock
 
Thanks for reminding me about the poor glare resistance, Sancho. The 8x30 Habicht gave me my very first experience with veiling glare. I couldn't believe a binocular that cost $500 could have anything wrong with it. I forgot to put that on my complaint list, even though I've posted photos of it several times here.

Brock,

I noticed that the eyecups could be switched, but I wasn't tempted to do that because I preferred the grippier rubber armored body to the leatherette anyway. I even prefer the way the rubber armored versions look, especially now that Swarovski has bling-blinged the fronts with silver birds and big silver letters on the hinge.

Henry
 
Has anyone found veiling glare issues with the (rubber-armoured) 10x40? If I understand correctly, the larger exit pupil oughtn't cause as much problems on those weird dull days when one's pupils dilate too much. And the green 10x40 look gorgeous.
 
Has anyone found veiling glare issues with the (rubber-armoured) 10x40? If I understand correctly, the larger exit pupil oughtn't cause as much problems on those weird dull days when one's pupils dilate too much. And the green 10x40 look gorgeous.

With only .25mm difference, I wouldn't think it would matter much if the problem causing the veiling glare is the same, however, the 7x42 model has a much larger 6mm exit pupil, which could make a difference.

I like the Gummi version better, too, both aesthetically and because of the eyecups.

Here's a photo of the discontinued Gummi 8x30 Habicht.

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Hello SANCHO,

My Habicht 10x40 W GA is VERY GOOD blocking stray lights and veiling glare. I must say, in regards of veiling glare, it is BETTER, than MY Zeiss HT 10x42. The Zeiss is slightly BETTER blocking stray lights, but looking at a close angle to the sun, the HT shows some more veiling than the Habicht.

Regards

PHA

Has anyone found veiling glare issues with the (rubber-armoured) 10x40? If I understand correctly, the larger exit pupil oughtn't cause as much problems on those weird dull days when one's pupils dilate too much. And the green 10x40 look gorgeous.
 
Hello SANCHO,

My Habicht 10x40 W GA is VERY GOOD blocking stray lights and veiling glare. I must say, in regards of veiling glare, it is BETTER, than MY Zeiss HT 10x42. The Zeiss is slightly BETTER blocking stray lights, but looking at a close angle to the sun, the HT shows some more veiling than the Habicht.

Regards

PHA

Yes, PHA speaks the truth in these matters.

I have a newish 10x40 GA and it is far far superior to the new 8x30 re glare. But, The 8x30 is so good otherwise...if it needed a small compromise somewhere surely and a bit of glare at certain times of day is a teeny tiny price to pay for one of the best optical devices ever made.

However, imo, the 10x40 GA is a better bino. It's as if the sublime optical brilliance at 8x30 just gets to stand out more at 10x. These things are beyond the acuity of the normal discerning human eye.

Also, in my experience, this GA is probably the only binocular available today whose visible and tactile build quality is equal to or...at least on par with the Zeiss 15x60 BGAT I just received. (It came as a relief to handle the older Zeiss and to feel a bino made to last numerous lifetimes.

I have Habichts going back to 1958 and 1959 models. These have been very well worn and used but remain stunning optically. I've found Equivalent oberkochen and binuxit to be virtually useless without a major service.

If there is a better built or more sturdy bino please let me know...I'll be the first to check it out.

Cheers,
Rathaus
 
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What's the source of the flare/glare in the 8x30 model? And why doesn't the 10x40 have it, too? More baffling with the longer objective tubes? Deeper recession of the objectives? Knowing that might give a clue as to how to reduce or eliminate it in the 8x30.

Has anyone tried adding Bushwackers to the 8x30 Habicht to see if that eliminates or reduces the veiling glare? It helps with the older EIIs. Not a cure but a palliative.

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