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Canon SX50 Specs (1 Viewer)

I almost never use the viewfinder with the sx50. I've tried but it's just so much easier to use the LCD on the back of the camera, for all shots.
When I had a SX50 (and SX40) I found the exact opposite - using the LCD you have to hold the Camera away from your body thus increasing the chance of blurring the shot due to Camera Movement. When you shoot via the Viewfinder you can hold the lens/Camera correctly (tucking your arm in) to avoid Camera shake. I guess a lot of this comes down to if you are used to shooting long lenses with a DSLR, if so then I cannot see how anyone could possible use the LCD for their shots. For folks that are only used to Point & shoot Cams they probably find it more comfortable using the LCD.
Yes the viewfinder on the SX50 (and most other point & shoot type Cameras) is very poor compared to a DSLR but for avoiding Camera shake when hand holding if your are shooting at the long end and especially if you are using one of the built-in tc's it is absolutely necessary.

Josh, I have had a look at some of your shots and although they are very nice they are mostly fairly soft IMHO - I am sure if you used the viewfinder and developed a hand holding technique you could get them a lot sharper.
Just my 2p's worth.
 
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Ya I never use the LCD with the SX50. Always the viewfinder. I realize the image in the viewfinder isn't the best but it's good enough to see if the AF is focused on the correct thing in the frame. That's really all I need it to do along with show what the actual frame is.
 
When I had a SX50 (and SX40) I found the exact opposite - using the LCD you have to hold the Camera away from your body thus increasing the chance of blurring the shot due to Camera Movement. When you shoot via the Viewfinder you can hold the lens/Camera correctly (tucking your arm in) to avoid Camera shake. I guess a lot of this comes down to if you are used to shooting long lenses with a DSLR, if so then I cannot see how anyone could possible use the LCD for their shots. For folks that are only used to Point & shoot Cams they probably find it more comfortable using the LCD.
Yes the viewfinder on the SX50 (and most other point & shoot type Cameras) is very poor compared to a DSLR but for avoiding Camera shake when hand holding if your are shooting at the long end and especially if you are using one of the built-in tc's it is absolutely necessary.

Josh, I have had a look at some of your shots and although they are very nice they are mostly fairly soft IMHO - I am sure if you used the viewfinder and developed a hand holding technique you could get them a lot sharper.
Just my 2p's worth.


You're absolutely correct, I have zero experience with using a DSLR. This is pretty much my first camera. I tried to use the viewfinder initially but gave up fairly quickly.

Thanks for the tips, I'll spend more time working on using the viewfinder. Hopefully with more practice it's something that will come second nature to me. Keeping the camera steady is a big issue I have. I normally would try and stabilize by leaning up against something.

Hopefully this rain will go away and I could go out to do some of that practicing soon!
 
Josh, I did the same thing when I got the SX50 for Christmas. I tried both but didn't really give the view finder a chance. Now I only use the view finder. It seems a lot easier to steady the camera, as others have commented on, especially at full zoom.

I agree with Roy. I think it helped me get sharper images. I'm still a long way from being any good at this. I think it was Crazyfingers settings that also helped me. Thank you.
 
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I have only had the SX50HS for a few days and have been experimenting with it nearly every day.With regards to the view finder I made the mistake of extending to full zoom and then trying to find the subject,almost impossible.What I find now is to use the viewfinder at 200/300mm and find the subject and then use full zoom to take the shot.The field of view at full zoom is so narrow that by the time you have found your subject it has probaly moved or flown.I found this the other day when trying to photo a pair of red crested mergansers that were continually diving and also disapearing in the swell.I have used the TC converters to get a shot at 200x but the picture is quite cloudy but I was able to ID an osprey on a pylon at about 800m.....Eddy
 
I have only had the SX50HS for a few days and have been experimenting with it nearly every day.With regards to the view finder I made the mistake of extending to full zoom and then trying to find the subject,almost impossible.What I find now is to use the viewfinder at 200/300mm and find the subject and then use full zoom to take the shot.The field of view at full zoom is so narrow that by the time you have found your subject it has probaly moved or flown.I found this the other day when trying to photo a pair of red crested mergansers that were continually diving and also disapearing in the swell.I have used the TC converters to get a shot at 200x but the picture is quite cloudy but I was able to ID an osprey on a pylon at about 800m.....Eddy

There are two buttons on the stub of the lens below the built in flash on the left side of the camera. The top one is ultra-handy. When zoomed, press that button and hold it pressed. That will retract the lens a good deal to allow you to find what you were looking for again. Release the button and the lens will extend again to where you had it. I use it all the time when I lose sight of what I wanted to photograph.
 
You're absolutely correct, I have zero experience with using a DSLR. This is pretty much my first camera. I tried to use the viewfinder initially but gave up fairly quickly.
What did you find difficult with the viewfinder? With glasses you may not be able to see the whole viewfinder display, which is annoying, but in compensation you should get steadier shots and *should* be able to see the display clearly. I also find it much easier to get the target in frame, a bit like getting binoculars onto a bird first try.

If the viewfinder isn't sharp for you, find the diopter adjustment and get the viewfinder focused before you try anything else.
 
I have only had the SX50HS for a few days and have been experimenting with it nearly every day.With regards to the view finder I made the mistake of extending to full zoom and then trying to find the subject,almost impossible.What I find now is to use the viewfinder at 200/300mm and find the subject and then use full zoom to take the shot.The field of view at full zoom is so narrow that by the time you have found your subject it has probaly moved or flown.I found this the other day when trying to photo a pair of red crested mergansers that were continually diving and also disapearing in the swell.I have used the TC converters to get a shot at 200x but the picture is quite cloudy but I was able to ID an osprey on a pylon at about 800m.....Eddy
Like has already been said, there is a special button for aiding finding the subject at extreme focal lengths - just push it in and hold until you find it and then release and it will auto go back to your chosen focal length.
 
A few pics with the SX50HS taken by a complete novice.The greenshank is at 20m,the marsh harrier 400m the gull is at 25m,the great egret at 250m and the male hen harrier is at 50/60m.I would be grateful for any critique but don't ask what settings were used because I didn't note them.Thank you ...Eddy
 

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What did you find difficult with the viewfinder? With glasses you may not be able to see the whole viewfinder display, which is annoying, but in compensation you should get steadier shots and *should* be able to see the display clearly. I also find it much easier to get the target in frame, a bit like getting binoculars onto a bird first try.



If the viewfinder isn't sharp for you, find the diopter adjustment and get the viewfinder focused before you try anything else.


I don't wear glasses, well normally I have my contacts in so it isn't that. It just seems very dark for me. I have a much harder time finding birds, especially anything small or moving. I didn't know there was a way to adjust the viewfinder, I should probably look in to that.

I guess I am steadier but I haven't been able to tell that much of a difference yet. Normally when I use the LCD I keep my arms tucked and the camera pretty close to my body, but I'm positive there's room for improvement.
 
I've been so impressed with the SX50 camera reading this thread I've gone and ordered one which should arrive next week.I intend to use it mainly for (a) Birds that are too distant for my trusted 7D & 400 5.6 lens and (b) Videos. I've been blown away by the videos I've seen on U-tube.

In order that I can get going quickly with this camera for bird shots will these settings for saving to C1 be OK :-

* AV set wide open

* AF frame : Flexzone

* ISO : Auto

* Noise reduction : set to lowest.

Other than setting the Shortcut button for the converters and worrying about the exposure are these OK ? Should I change any other settings ?

Regarding video settings I haven't got a clue other than setting the image quality.Any advice.

Hope you can help.

Max
 
Not sure about the auto ISO. I only use it if light levels are poor and even then mines upper limit is set at ISO400. It only comes into play with still photos and even ISO400 is a little too grainy for my liking. Mostly I shoot at ISO80 relying on the IS for steady shots.

I've also got the 1.5x converter set at C1. I tend to mostly stick with AV mode using the Q button for selecting converters.

Video you can pretty much leave to it's own devices. I mostly just use it via the red button. If light levels need adjusting then you have to swap to the video setting on the top dial. I also have the microphone sensitivity set at maximum to pick up calls/background nosies - unless sat in a hide. Plus the wind reduction filter set quite high as well.
 
Not sure about the auto ISO. I only use it if light levels are poor and even then mines upper limit is set at ISO400. It only comes into play with still photos and even ISO400 is a little too grainy for my liking. Mostly I shoot at ISO80 relying on the IS for steady shots.

I've also got the 1.5x converter set at C1. I tend to mostly stick with AV mode using the Q button for selecting converters.

Video you can pretty much leave to it's own devices. I mostly just use it via the red button. If light levels need adjusting then you have to swap to the video setting on the top dial. I also have the microphone sensitivity set at maximum to pick up calls/background nosies - unless sat in a hide. Plus the wind reduction filter set quite high as well.

Cheers Ian.

Since posting I have re-read most of the posts in this thread and have picked up a lot of advice.Mind you I've found the downloaded manual tricky to follow.

Max.
 
I've tried using the LCD screen but have given up because:
a. I can't keep the camera steady with it
b. I can't see the image in bright light - and it's almost always bright light here in Texas.

The viewfinder isn't great but I find it's fine except for small birds flying fast.

BTW, the attached photo of a Chipping Sparrow was taken through a (less than sparkling clean) window.

Jeff
 

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Max

Think my set up for C1 is more or less the same. All I can add is that I have set the zoom to almost 500mm when I saved the settings to C1. It just saves a small amount of time in that the zoom is out and ready the moment the camera is switched on. I reckon that most of my bird images will nearly always have some zoom dialled in.
Up to you if you want single or multiple shots included in the saved settings.

Hope this is of some help
Roger
 

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Max

Think my set up for C1 is more or less the same. All I can add is that I have set the zoom to almost 500mm when I saved the settings to C1. It just saves a small amount of time in that the zoom is out and ready the moment the camera is switched on. I reckon that most of my bird images will nearly always have some zoom dialled in.
Up to you if you want single or multiple shots included in the saved settings.

Hope this is of some help
Roger

Cheers Wimpy.

Took the SX50 out yesterday for my first go.Unsurprisingly I didn't do too well as it's early days and I'm finding it strange after using my 7D for years.

Have you noticed that when you buy a new camera the weather goes down the pan and no birds visit your garden feeders.

I bought this camera mainly for taking bird videos and this worked well for me considering it was my first go.Any tips taking bird videos would be welcome.

The battery ran down very quickly which is a worry.I played around with the camera quite a bit checking out all the setting,took about 50 shots and about 5 mins of videos when I went out and that's all but the battery symbol started to flash red.

Better put a shot on this post.This was my best shot.Looks a bit soft.

Max
 

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The battery ran down very quickly which is a worry.I played around with the camera quite a bit checking out all the setting,took about 50 shots and about 5 mins of videos when I went out and that's all but the battery symbol started to flash red.
Remember that 5 minutes of video is about 7000 frames.
 
The battery shouldn't be discharging that quickly. I regularly just about fill a 16 GB card with stills (max jpegs) and often over 30 minutes video at max. size not to mention reviewing and deleting photos & videos - all on one battery charge. I do carry a spare but I've only occasionally ever had to change the battery.

I think using the LCD a lot is a power drain. I'm quite happy with using the viewfinder for both stills and video.
 
Cheers both re. the battery.I've now got a spare and will see how I get on.

So far (only second try with the camera) I have done OK with close shots but pretty poor with long range shots but the weather was grim for those.

I find it much harder to keep this camera steady than I do with my 7D and 400 lens.Am I too old for this camera ???

Here's a couple taken from about 6m away.Not great but getting better.

Max
 

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