Birding West Papua –Logistics and Observations (1 Viewer)

[Jon Gallagher]

Just back from a trip through West Papua and thought I'd post a few hopefully helpful comments on logistics and observations for what in the past has been a challenging area. This was done as an independently arranged trip without an agency or a tour company.

Biak

I contacted Benny Lesomar, the usual Mr Fixit for Biak. He runs an outfit called Discover Papua Birding, WhatsApp +62 812-4829-9411. I really didn’t need guiding, just a driver, and he recommended his driver, Mas Gadot +62 812-4892-000 who he said knew all the birding sites. I corresponded with him by WhatsApp and made arrangements.

On arrival though it was clear that the driver did not speak any English, and did not know the birding sites apart from a few he’d already been to. He didn’t even know Warafri, probably the top birding site on the island. In the end I used him for just a couple of days, for which he charged me 1.3million Rph per day, no doubt excessive. Getting the birds was relatively easy on Biak. There are plenty of hotels to choose between.

Nimbokrang

I tried to contact Jamil Minto but was unsuccessful. Carolin Waisimon did respond on behalf of her father Alex Waisimon and quickly made arrangements. The charge was 1.5million Rph per day for accommodation, food, and guiding, with an additional 800,000 Rph each way for transport from the airport at Sentani. Carolin Waisimon +62 813-5330-5057. The Waisimons also helped contact Hans Maducan at Papuan Lorikeet Lodge in the Arfaks who they recommended above the Wonggors.

Alex has purchased a large tract of forest to preserve it and has sites on his property for Twelve-wired, King, and Lesser Bird of Paradise, along with other stakeouts. Jalan Korea is a shadow of its former self apparently. When I visited what remained was a narrow strip of forest either side of the road, with the rest cut down to make way for poi palm plantations. Already Pak Jamil was refusing to go there because of this (see Ross Gallardy’s report). This means some of the more challenging targets are increasingly difficult.

Arfaks

No response was received from either Zeth Wonggor or Eliakim Wonggor. On the recommendation of the Waisimons I went with Hans Maducan, who runs Papuan Lorikeet Lodge, just before Syoubri village and at a slightly higher elevation. He had sites for most of the specialities on his property or by arrangements with other landowners. However this was mainly along the lines of feeding stations rather than display areas. Whether this was down to time of year or other issues I was never sure. It was certainly at the end of the breeding season, with for example a pair of Western Parotias feeding a fully grown juvenile. So maybe if you really want displays, the Wonggors would be a better bet, I don’t know. The accommodation was basic, but with proper beds and “normal” toilet. Hans Maducan +62 821-9946-9312. He got my messages, but I never received his replies on WhatsApp for some reason. However arrangements were confirmed through the Waisimons. Hans charged me a total package of 10million for 4days/3 nights including airport pickup and drop off. Since Gareth Knass and co were paying 2million each way for airport runs back in 2015, this would mean I was being charged 2million Rph per night for accommodation food, guiding, and access.

Raja Ampat

The landing “fee” for tourists is now 300,000 Rph. The ferry cost to Waigeo is 125,000 Rph one way. I stayed at homestay Wapnansan run by Franky Mambrasar and arranged though stayrajaampat.com at a cost of USD30 per day full board. I chose this homestay because Franky is a local bird guide and speaks some English. My experience was a bit varied. On the first day he apologized that he didn’t have any breakfast ready as he had to go into town to buy bread. So breakfast was at 11am. 45 minutes later he says that lunch is ready. We make arrangements for a boat expedition for the next day. But later that same day he comes around to say the boat is ready to go now. Then we make arrangements to go for Wilson’s BoP in the morning at 9am. I think that’s a bit late, but he insists 9am is fine. However in the morning he comes round at 6am telling me it’s time to go. Quick takeaway: be ready for totally unplanned and unexpected events. He also wants to maximize his revenue. 1 Million Rph for the boat. 1 Million Rph for the car to the interior for Western Crowned Pigeon etc. We do the Wilson’s BoP on the way. But then later he wants an extra 400,000 Rph for that. Interesting...

Any questions/comments PM me.



Cheers,



Jon

 

[jurek]

Hi,
When we visited Raja Ampat we did not pay the fee to the national park, because our guide said we don't go diving or snorkelling.

Did you experience the situation that a guy in the middle of the visit raises prices, claims more charges and simply wants much more money than agreed? We had it at Nimborkang and Arfaks. At Arfaks we were prepared after reading the Ross Gallardy report, and at the beginning of the visit we asked our host to write down all prices, sign, and took a photo of him with the paper. But he tried it nevertheless later. At both places we bargained down and additionally explained that it is a very bad way for doing business, that we will not have money for the following days etc. Another group was treated like this too, and we had an impression it is considered an acceptable business practice in West Papua.

 

[Jon Gallagher]

Hi,
When we visited Raja Ampat we did not pay the fee to the national park, because our guide said we don't go diving or snorkelling.

Did you experience the situation that a guy in the middle of the visit raises prices, claims more charges and simply wants much more money than agreed? We had it at Nimborkang and Arfaks. At Arfaks we were prepared after reading the Ross Gallardy report, and at the beginning of the visit we asked our host to write down all prices, sign, and took a photo of him with the paper. But he tried it nevertheless later. At both places we bargained down and additionally explained that it is a very bad way for doing business, that we will not have money for the following days etc. Another group was treated like this too, and we had an impression it is considered an acceptable business practice in West Papua.

Hi Jurek,

I wasn't given the option on arrival in Raja Ampat not to pay, and I didn't have a guide... At least the price has come down from the 1,000,000 Rph per person that the Gallardy's had to pay!

As for attempts to rip you off... The Waisimons in Nimbokrang were very clear upfront with their costs and stuck to them without any problems. In fact since I didn't want to pay for a vehicle for transport Alex Waisimon took me on the back of his motorbike to sites for free. No upselling there--the visiting to the stakeouts were covered as part of the agreed package.

I had not been able to talk with Hans Maducan before meeting him at the airport in Manokwari. Initially he was asking for 15 million Rph but we negotiated it down to 10 million with less use of his pickup for transportation. He didn't try and change the agreed price later. So once again no issues, though it's expensive for what it is.

I can definitely recommend these two contacts for good customer service and helpful support in excellent birding locations.

Franky at the homestay Wapnansan was keen to maximize his income but didn't try to raise agree prices though you do need to be clear with him as to what is being paid for, as I mentioned.

But it is wise to have a definite record of what has been agreed !