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Birds, Beasts and Bugs- Trekking in Sabah, Borneo (1 Viewer)

Hi,

Had a feeling that the prospect of a giant rat would interest you! It's just up the road from the 4 km mark, big rectangular metal thing next to the road. There are also some small bins at Timpohon gate, these also got raided, but we didn't see by whom!
ah yes that's the "bin by Timpohon Gate" I meant. I had a terrible first day at Mt. Kinabalu today!! Only one mammal (the Bornean black-banded squirrel which lives at Timpohon Gate) and about four species of birds!! Not a single bird wave. Going out tonight so fingers crossed for better luck with the night critters.
 
Sorry to hear that, we also found the birding quite quiet there, so did my friend Keith. The rats like banana so you could try that.
it got better on the next two days, some nice birds and mammals. Even some lifers!

Between bird-waves it is always pretty quiet though! It is the kind of place where you need to spend as many days as possible to keep winkling the birds out of the forest.

I think one more day here (tomorrow), then Sepilok.
 
Friday 21st March

Anyway our short time at Sepilok was almost over and we were due to be picked up at 9 am for our transfer to Kinabatangan Jungle Camp. So this meant we had a little bit of time over breakfast to bird around the lodge before heading out. I took a walk around the pond and a pair of noisy collared kingfishers were chasing off an intruder. A small water monitor lizard climbed up onto a mound to sun itself and both plantain and Prevost's squirrels traversed aerial highways. Other birds seen included slender-billed crow, Javan mynah, dollarbird (a type of roller) and a bat hawk.


As it happened, the driver arrived earlier than expected and so went on to another lodge to pick up some other guests before doubling back to collect us. Then we were on our way. The last part of the journey to KJC is by boat from the small village of Bilit. We arrived to a warm welcome. Robert the owner and guide for our trip was keen to know what we wanted to see. I expressed an interest for general mammals and colourful birds, pittas, trogons etc, and of course I just had to mention my interest in cats and my hope for that elusive clouded leopard. Robert didn't sound too hopeful, saying that in all the years he's guided here, he's only seen leopard a couple of times (including, he later told me, a female with two cubs who strolled right through the clearing in front of the restaurant at two in the afternoon one day- talk about being gripped off!!). My heart sank a little, because I felt sure that they were seen more regularly than that, like maybe once a month or something!

But at least the pygmy elephants would be a highlight for this section of our trip right? I mean I've read quite a few trip reports and everyone seems to see a herd of pygmy elephants on this river... Robert shook his head and explained apologetically that there was a herd but they were hanging around 2 hours away by boat. One or two had been seen recently on night cruises but that was about it...

The other people we arrived with were a birder and his non-birder wife. The birder pulled out a list and Robert sat down with him to go through it, explaining we'll look for this and that, this one is difficult, this one we don't get, that one is easy and you'll definitely see it and so on. Lunch was served on the restaurant deck overlooking the clearing and we enjoyed watching the local residents which included some huge monitor lizards, I mean these guys looked almost as big as komodo dragons! A pair of rare Storm's storks, a sought after bird, were resident at the lodge, one having been rescued a few years ago by Robert. He had left the lodge for a while but had now returned with girlfriend in tow. A Prevost's squirrel came to claim a share of banana.

We had seven boat trips booked over our three night stay, as well as a trip to Gomantong caves.

The lodge is set back from the river, connected by a boardwalk. As we walked along it, we were shown two brown wood owls.
 

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Below is a video of the activity around the lodge and the highlights from our first boat trip. You can see one of the storks carrying something in it's mouth. I think this is probably a blind snake! These harmless snakes burrow in the leaf litter and could be mistaken for a large earthworm.

I was also shown a black and yellow broadbill in it's pendulous nest.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp9Cs8Q3Z28

After relaxing at the lodge until about 15.30 it was time for our first boat trip. We got really lucky and saw our first orangutans feeding high up in the trees along the river, once they moved further away from us we carried on. Both brahminy kite and a lesser adjutant stork soared over the river and a lesser fish eagle perched in a tree. We passed a submerged tree, on which were perched egrets and anhingas.
 

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Then a large troop of proboscis were seen crashing through the trees. Another of the mammals that I really hoped to see and we spent a fair amount of time watching their antics.

Robert tried hard to locate some good birds and we managed to spot Bornean falconet some distance away, this is the world's smallest falcon. Wrinkled hornbill, another of the species I really wanted to see, flew over but were too distant to appreciate well. A dollarbird made sorties from a high perch.

A bird that did pose really well for us was a spectacular black and red broadbill. What a little stunner this bird is! We also picked up whiskered tern, green imperial pigeon, crested serpent eagle and common sandpiper.
 

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Towards the end of the boat trip we travelled down one of the tributaries, a bat hawk was perched some distance away and we then spotted some silver leaf monkeys (languars) who were starting to bed down for the night, then another troop of proboscis monkeys were seen. The sunset provided a spectacular backdrop to our last sighting which was a stunning rhinoceros hornbill. Unfortunately with the dusk light it wasn't in a great spot for photography, but what a bird to end our first boat trip on!
 

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We returned to the lodge for dinner and watched as bats made sorties through the open corridors. Our day was still not over as we returned to the boat for a night cruise. We first came across a buffy fish owl in the spotlight, then a skulking black-crowned night heron was picked up. A sleepy troop of proboscis monkeys rested in the trees by the side of the river and a stork billed kingfisher seemed to be tucked up for the night. How our boatman spotted the one-eyed reticulated python hiding in the vegetation we do not know!
 

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Interlude 2



Thanks Tree Sparrow! In the phillips's guide there is a section on each of the main reserves. In there it says of Danum Valley "clouded leopard regular". My mate Keith knows a guy who worked at DVFC for a while and said he saw leopard several times, but I got the impression that they spent time far away from the usual trails and/or did longer night drives than is possible to organise as a regular visitor. In another report I read somewhere, I think one guy was staying at DVFC and was fortunate enough to see leopard several nights running while out spotlighting. So combined with my luck against the odds in December looking for Iberian Lynx, I was quite optimistic that we might chance upon one with all the night walks/boat rides and drives we had planned.

But speaking to the guides there, they maybe had on average 1-2 sightings each a year. I do know that one year people were fortunate that a guide at BRL found one resting in a tree, you can see the amazing pictures on Naturetrek's website. But that was a couple of years ago. In fact searching for images of clouded leopard reveals only a handful of wild shots that are not taken with camera traps. On Flickr there is a shot taken by a guide on the Kinabatangan, and I know Coke Smith posted an image of one that he missed, but that others in his group saw along the Kinabatangan.

So realistically I think one would have to be extremely fortunate to come across one of these elusive cats. I get the impression that aside from leopard cat, the chance of seeing any of Borneo's other felines is quite low, but it does happen!
 
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Saturday 22nd March


We woke to the whooping call of Bornean gibbons in the forest behind camp. I tried for ages to track them down but they remained hidden. A crested serpent eagle was having an early breakfast and was really approachable. Then Paul spotted one of the gibbons hanging from a distant tree, but it was too far to get a decent photo.

Our first boat trip was at 6.30 so we had a light breakfast before we headed out. We were on a mission to find some good birds this morning. Stork-billed kingfishers shot along the river, hugging the bank. A straw-headed bulbul posed on a dead tree. A flock of pink-necked green pigeons adorned a bare tree and we also saw a black-headed bulbul.

Below are, Crested serpent eagle, Straw-headed bulbul, Pink-necked green pigeons, White-bellied Sea Eagle, Anhinga.
 

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Troops of proboscis monkeys and long-tailed macaques were making their way through some thick cover and we didn't linger long as Robert wanted to get us down to one of the tributaries to look for Bornean ground cuckoo, amongst other avian wonders. A Wallace's hawk eagle soared overhead and a white-bellied sea eagle posed regally on top of a tree.

We watched an anhinga fishing as Robert tried in vain to call out a ground cuckoo, “wooo-wooo” he went, “woooo-woooo!!” but of the bird, nerry a whisper. We did see black and yellow broadbill, black winged flycatcher-shrike and dollarbird. A bright green bird with a dark head and bold white wing patched flew across the river- our first hooded pitta! Violet cuckoo was too brief to really appreciate when it was sighted by Robert. Long-tailed parakeets noisily passed overhead in small flocks as we waited hopefully for a ground cuckoo to appear.

Several species of Malkoha were seen over the course of the morning, including black-bellied, chestnut-breasted and Raffles's. These birds were nearly always too far for a photograph and/or enjoyed thwarting our efforts by hiding in vines and other vegetation growing on the trunks of the tall trees. Only the black-bellied was good enough to allow me a record shot!

When he wasn't unsuccessfully imitating a ground cuckoo, Robert was busily pointing out the calls of other birds. He managed to briefly locate a scarlet-rumped trogon, but this bird flew off before I could get a shot. Little green pigeon, white-bellied babbler, Malaysian blue flycatcher and black backed kingfisher were all seen, whilst wreathed hornbill flew overhead. Of raptors we saw Jerdon's baza,crested goshawk and changeable hawk eagle. Officially the boat trips were due to end around 09.30 but we were frequently out for much longer than that, I don't think we got back until around 11.00.

Below are Black-bellied Malkoha, Jerdon's Bazas, Estuarine crocodile, Storm's stork.
 

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We enjoyed a relax at the lodge watching the comings and goings from the deck. Our friendly Storm's storks were there, one seemed to be sunning itself, despite the heat of midday.

A Prevost's Squirrel, thankfully not the subject of the serpent eagle's breakfast, appeared as lunchtime approached. Later on, a herd of bearded pigs arrived to snaffle up the leftovers from the kitchen that were tossed to them, they had a bit of competition from the large water monitors though!
 

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We headed out again at 15.30. A blue-eared kingfisher glowed in the afternoon sun. We were on a mission for the ground cuckoo again and Robert continued in his efforts to call the bird to us. We spent a long time just calling, listening, waiting, calling some more, listening for any response and waiting some more. As we drifted along we spotted a maroon-breasted philentoma. To me the name of this smart blue and maroon coloured bird sounds like some kind of medical condition! Then a calling Diard's trogon distracted us from our quest as we moored the boat and headed into the jungle. Soon we were marvelling at this gem of a bird as it peered at us suspiciously before fluttering between different perches. Wrinkled hornbill again made sorties overhead and again were too distant to be photographed. Silver leaf monkeys and both long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques were also spotted along the river. Our last sighting was a wonderful Rhinoceros hornbill.

Below and above are bearded pigs and water monitors, Blue-eared kingfisher, Diard's Trogon and Long-tailed macaques.
 

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We returned to the lodge for dinner. One enthusiastic member of staff too to bringing bugs over to the table for us to see, including a stick insect. After dinner we had a guided walk around the jungle bordering the lodge. We were looking for bay owl, but first I unfortunately found my first leach actively trying to get a grip on my stomach! Urgh!! I also felt one land on my head and for some reason they also seemed to take a shine to my camera. Paul told me later that leeches will try and assault you from the forest floor, so one couldn't have landed on my hair. But I contend that when the vegetation is almost as tall as me, then a leech attack can come from any angle, including above! I have read that leeches also don't come out at night. Well I can categorically state that this is a complete fallacy!!

In any event, we first spotted a buffy fish owl and then a small as-yet-unidentified toad or frog was found. Paul decided to wander off on his own for a bit whilst I stuck with the guides who were going off piste to try and track down the bay owl that was hooting in the thickets. The bay owl is quite a sought-after owl so they were keen to prove their worth and we were not to be disappointed! We bravely followed through the leech-infested jungle and were rewarded with a sighting of a bay owl plus dinner! Looks to be a grey tree rat or similar (soon to be an ex-grey tree rat!).
 

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With our quarry found, we headed out of the woods and back to the lodge. Robert had offered to put on a boat trip following the walk and not wanting to miss a single chance to sight that elusive leopard (or elephant for that matter) I was the only one who was still up for it so we headed out, spotting a speckle-headed vine snake on the boardwalk. Another buffy fish owl was spotted and then the trip went quiet for a time, marred by mist that made spotlighting difficult. Then, on our way back my guide spotted something in the river. As we got closer we saw that it was actually a Malay civet. This was the first time my guide had seen a civet swimming in the river, we felt it was taking its life in its paws as we had seen the size of the estuarine crocodiles that lurked in the murky water. For a moment I felt like Jimmy Carter as the civet came directly towards us and looked like it was going to jump in the boat! After snapping a few pictures we left it alone and headed back to camp. I was very glad to have taken the opportunity of the boat trip as that civet was a wonderful sighting. I called on Paul before turning in to let him know about the snake on the boardwalk which was still there. He'd continued spotlighting while I was gone and had his own brief civet sighting on one of the tracks.
 

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I also felt one land on my head and for some reason they also seemed to take a shine to my camera. Paul told me later that leeches will try and assault you from the forest floor, so one couldn't have landed on my hair. But I contend that when the vegetation is almost as tall as me, then a leech attack can come from any angle, including above! I have read that leeches also don't come out at night. Well I can categorically state that this is a complete fallacy!!
in most places terrestrial leeches are purely ground-dwelling and attack from the feet-up. In Borneo however you also have the tiger leeches which attack from the vegetation. You need a full-body leech-sock there.....

I've heard of people getting them attached inside their nostrils, or even one person had one fixed to a contact lens!
 
Leeches are sneaky little devils!

Here is a short video from the 22/3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgLOnYqocvU

I should mention that I really didn't use the camcorder as much as I have with some of my other trips. Mainly because unlike in Madagascar I didn't have a guide who was keen to shoot video for me while I was taking photos and also shooting video from the boat really was difficult- the boat is just not a stable enough platform. Finally the lens steamed up several times, and I think that also meant that some smudges and dirt accumulated on the lens. So some of the footage is really dire! Sorry about that.. :-C
 
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