Aug 27, pm
On my way back into town in the late morning, I ran into some other visiting birders on the bus. They were returning from a very early start at a road not far from Horto Florestal, which they had visited for two special species-
Black-and-gold Cotinga and
Long-trained Nightjar. I think I may have drooled a little
not quite, but I did ask for details and made plans to return later that day. Turns out, the mysterious Campos do Jordao State Park, that I had been unable to find information about, was down the dirt road they described. Conveniently there was a bus stop right at the start of this road. Apparently, the field containing the nightjars was about 1.5 miles up the road, and the cotinga was another 1.5 from that.
I arrived at the start of the dirt road around 3:30, and started walking like mad- I had about 2 and half hours before the nightjars would come out and decided I would try to see the cotinga first. A few birds kept me busy along the way up- always striking
Campo Flickers, plus some close looks at a
Cliff Flycatcher. Maybe an hour and a half later, after a brisk walk of 3 uphill miles and several bird distractions, I heard it- I had never heard the sound before, but the call had been described to me, and that strange series of long, rising whistles had to be the cotinga! Sure enough, I rounded the last bend and found 3 birders there, using a tape to lure in the cotinga. Well, the call I had been hearing was the real thing, and there it was right in front of me! I had mixed feelings, elated that I was seeing the bird but a little miffed that someone had called it in and was continuing to play it. I watched and listened for a while, taking it in and enjoying the view of the sun setting on the mountain landscape.
Soon it was time to start heading down for the nightjar. Bird activity picked up distractingly on the way down, many flocks of woodland songbirds. One new species appeared, a tiny flycatcher that zipped around manakin-like. I couldn't ID it on the spot but later determined it to be a
Brown-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant. Just as I approached the nightjar field, in the remaining light I saw a
Shear-tailed Gray Tyrant at the top of a tree by the road.
I knew I had found the spot, not just because it matched the description I had been given, but because there were about 7 other people there. Greetings and introductions were made, dusk fell swiftly, and we settled down to wait. Minutes of silence stretched, and then in a dark flash, the bird flew across the road, long tail feathers streaming dramatically behind it- the
Long-trained Nightjar! We waited for it to reappear, and then cautiously approached the area it had last been seen. It was full dark now, but we quickly relocated it as it flew right over our heads and landed in the road. Someone got a spotlight on it, and I cursed myself for not bringing my camera along as I stared at this amazing bird barely ten feet in front of me. I watched for as long as I dared before I felt it was time to start walking back to catch the last bus into town. I was quite thrilled with the day's birds!