Aug 19 continued...
After we left Piuval we had a long drive back up to Cuiaba and then beyond to Chapada. Not far beyond Cuiaba the landscape began to change dramatically- the land rose higher, the trees got scrubbier, and in the distance (the not-too-far distance given all the smoke!) we could see red cliffs looming. We stopped for lunch in Ricardo's hometown of Chapada, a nice little town up in the cerrado. We ate at a restaurant owned by Ricardo's parents, a typical place for the area serving delicious food buffet-style.
We made a few different stops in Chapada dos Guimaraes National Park in the afternoon. First was a quick stop at an overlook near the entrance to the park, where we quickly located our quarry- a distant, but distinctly reddish,
Cliff Flycatcher. The view of the countryside from our vantage would have been quite spectacular if not for all the smoky haze. Our next stop was to a strange little house that belonged to a friend of Ricardo's, featuring among other interesting murals a larger-than-life naked, smiling Jesus. We searched the forest trails mostly for manakins, and were rewarded with great views of a male
Band-tailed Manakin. Then to our delight he started hopping side-to-side, so rapidly he seemed almost to teleport. Awesome! The
Fiery-capped Manakins were not so accommodating, I occasionally caught glimpses of a tiny darting shadow but not much else.
In late afternoon we visited a waterfall, where we hoped to find Great Dusky Swift, Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper, and Helmeted Manakin. We had seen a female Helmeted Manakin a few days ago, but here we hoped to see some displaying males. The forest was quiet on the short hike down to the falls, and Ricardo suggested we have about a half hour to chill and enjoy the waterfall... and to use our drink vouchers Tom lost no time shedding his shoes and wading into the clear, cold water of the pool, beer in hand. One beer and shot of cachaca later, we were both feeling pretty good (especially Tom, I made him finish mine...B
) None of our targets panned out... no swifts, no streamcreeper responded to playback, no manakins. Ricardo suggested that the cat roaming the grounds was to blame, and spoke to the owners about it. We did see a few things though-
White-bellied Warbler,
Swallow Tanager, and a familiar face to an Arkansan, a
Red-eyed Vireo.
Dusk was approaching, so we returned to Chapada to watch the town's parrots coming to roost in the square. We got great scope views of
Red-shouldered Macaws settling into a palm for the night. We mosied on to a cafe, and from the outside table I leapt up in surprise when several large nighthawks flew overhead-
Nacunda Nighthawks! Probably 30 or more flew overhead over the next few minutes as we watched.
The following morning was to be a whirlwind, 3.5 hours of target birding in the cerrado.
Below: Black-collared Hawk, view of Chapada dos Guimaraes NP, Campo Flicker, Southern Lapwing, and Plumbeous Ibis