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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Canon SX50 Specs (1 Viewer)

See post 379 and the few posts following.

But how did you get that macro to work, and was there a lot of work afterwards?

David
Thanks will check it out.

For the macro I got a clip on "macro filter" - very cheap, ( Raynox I think). Then took a bunch of photos moving the camera forward the tiniest amount each time. I wasn't using a tripod so I had to be quite careful and just squeezed the base of the camera with the tip of my finger against the desk until it moved the smallest amount possible. (Later I converted an old enlarger column to use as a track, which makes it much easier - I just turn a wheel now). I used the built in flash for each shot - I tried it without but it was better with. Then I fed all the photos into a focus stacker and that was pretty much it - bit of cropping and I probably tweaked the colours and contrast a bit.

Before I discovered that there were automatic focus stackers I actually tried it manually - taking a bunch of photos and making layers in Photoshop and deleting the blurry bits. It worked almost as well, but that was a lot of work.
 
Speaking of Macros, I was out to the park yesterday and while I didn't get many good bird photos, I took this shot from about 6 feet away using maximum optical zoom and the 2x teleconverter.

Not bad. Most interestingly, it did not appear that using the 2x required me to get farther away. When I want a good photo of a dragonfly I'll be sure to use the 2x in the future.

No crop by the way. This is full frame.
 

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Has anyone done any direct comparisons with the SX40? With the same sensor and processor the IQ and high ISO noise levels will obviously be the same and the IS system is similar so no change there.

The one thing that interests me most is the AF system, with regards to birds in particular how much better is the SX50 - does it AF quicker? is the AF more accurate?.

Also how about the shutter lag, I see it is less than the SX40 - is this noticeable in the field?

I see the SX50 has a slightly 'slower' burst speed (in AF mode) is this noticeable?

How has the slower aperture at full zoom effected things?

Apart from the obvious increase in optical reach what other benefits have you found over the SX40?

I would be grateful for any feedback from those who have used both Cameras :t:
 
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Roy, I know that crazyfingers has both sx40 and sx50, so maybe he will chip in.

I wouldn't be so sure that the IS is similar in both. Especially in video mode. One of the factors that made me want to upgrade from my SX30 was the video I link to below comparing the IS of the 40 v the 50.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTBPKt-CEik

David
 
Roy, I know that crazyfingers has both sx40 and sx50, so maybe he will chip in.

I wouldn't be so sure that the IS is similar in both. Especially in video mode. One of the factors that made me want to upgrade from my SX30 was the video I link to below comparing the IS of the 40 v the 50.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTBPKt-CEik

David
Thank you David, certainly for stills it is the same 4.5 stop IS system. I must admit I am not at all interested in Video (never even tried it on my three year old 7D DSLR or the SX40!).
 
I'm starting for forget the details of what the differences are. I posted more detailed observations in this topic somewhere.... I'd say that in practice I always choose the SX50 go with me unless it's a very dark day or very low light in which case I choose the SX40.

I do think that the IS is better on the SX50 but it has to be.
 
First "keeper" with SX-50

This is my first "keeper" shot with my new SX-50. White-crowned sparrow. My main issue so far is "getting on" the bird with the EVF. Also having issues with handheld at full zoom - not as stable as I used to be! Anyway, I am pretty pleased with this shot, it is in-camera JPEG, did some cropping and contrast adjustment in Picasa. Any suggestions received gratefully
 

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Main suggestion is not to use the EVF. I find using the flipout screen in combination with the button that pulls back the zoom means I get on most things pretty quickly even when at full zoom.

I'm still making mistakes with this camera but improving. There are a whole load of photos of varying quality taken on a recent trip to Morocco on my blog:
http://thenaturalstone.blogspot.co.uk/

Some are heavily cropped. The Bonelli's Eagle was taken hand held at considerable range and is nothing short of a miracle if you ask me. The Striped Hawk-moth is taken with flash and the Barbary Macaques are a video grab.

Biggest mistake seems to be keeping the ISO at 80. Longer shutter speeds as a result lead to some motion blur. And surprisingly there seems to be more noise than you would get at higher ISOs with shorter shutter speeds.

I haven't finished sorting out the videos yet but I'm happier with those. The reach is immense with the 2x feature but a tripod is advisable.
 
The reach is immense with the 2x feature but a tripod is advisable.

I would not say that a tripod is so necessary.

Following examples are wide angle and max zoom with 2x teleconverter. My local Park. See that bell on top of the mansion? Zoooom.

These are handheld but not a windy day.
 

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I think a tripod is necessary for video at max zoom, which I gathered was what Brian was talking about.

I don't have the steadiest hands, and I've been ill, but I still manage to get acceptable pics at full zoom with teleconverter especially in good light. If I can use something like a wall or a fence to support my hand or body it is better than just standing, though.

David
 
This is my first "keeper" shot with my new SX-50. White-crowned sparrow. My main issue so far is "getting on" the bird with the EVF. Also having issues with handheld at full zoom - not as stable as I used to be! Anyway, I am pretty pleased with this shot, it is in-camera JPEG, did some cropping and contrast adjustment in Picasa. Any suggestions received gratefully
I see you managed to focus right past all those twigs. Nice !
 
Been through the thread and picked out these 2 nuggets for focussing through twigs. Repeating because threads so long:

(crazyfingers)
Turn top dial to P. (my addition!)
Press Menu
Set AF Frame to Flexzone and Spot AE Point to AF Point. Save as C1.
Turn top dial to C1

(RobinM)
Change the top dial away from Auto. (For example to P)
Frame the shot (my addition!)
Press the AF Frame Selector button (just above the Control Dial)
Then use the arrow keys to move the frame (and Press Set). (Do you really need to press Set? I don't think so)
To reset it to the middle, press and hold down the AF Frame Selector button

RobinM's method seems to work well for changing the point of focus. But you can't use it with Auto.
I haven't tried crazyfingers' method yet. Will try on next tree I see.
 
I think these are more than impressive, especially the lack of CA at that zoom! - this camera is seriously tempting me!

John
 
Bee-eaters

Caught up with these Blue Throated Bee-eaters today in Kemaman Malaysia,a lifer for me and a very nice bird to watch
Had a bit of a struggle trying to get the SX50 to auto focus thoughbut,i would have given my right arm to have had my 7d and L lens at hand.
Seems when there is green foilage behind the subject as was happening today the camera would not focus on the bird no matter how hard i tried,switching modes and pumping shutter halfwy etc,not a problem if you had clear sky behind the bird though.Another thing that gets me is if you catch the self timer with your thumb and it goes into timer mode,done that more than once i can tell you,still a nice bit of kit though but can be frustrating at times
Even tried my luck at a BIF with a passing W B Sea Eagle.

Cheers

Bob
 

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