Next day (18th Feb) I was up at 5.30, having had a fitful night's sleep due to the cold. Still, that was of minor importance as today was the big day...the day all those lovely specialities of the reserve would give themselves up...in theory anyway! In practice, things panned out prety much as hoped. We (Luis, Matt and myself) headed up to the paramo, we saw the fab Dusky Starfrontlet easily at the feeders, the two Flowerpiercers, Black-throated and Chestnut-bellied, were easy on the paramo (both seen within minutes, end very easy to separate), and I got a couple of bonus birds in the shape of Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant (on the steps up to the paramo) and Rufous Antpitta (just beyond the feeder on the paramo). We stayed up there for an hour or two, but much of the time there was a fair amount of cloud, so visibility was often poor. The walk back down was pretty quiet, bird activity was very low, and the lack of very much to stop for meant we were back at the house for lunch. After that, I headed up to the Antpitta feeding station once again, hoping for Fenwick's / Urrao Antpitta. This time I didn't have too long to wait until one showed...crippling views from just a few yards away.
I spent the rest of the afternoon along the path where I had seen the tapaculos yesterday...a pretty hard climb after this mornings exertions. Sadly it was raining and cloudy most of the afternoon, so my efforts were not very well rewarded other than with a couple of trip ticks, but I'd had 6 lifers today so couldnt really complain.
Back at the house, the cold and rainy afternoon had taken away any possible desire to have a shower, so I spent the evening eating, writing up notes and drinking tea. I decided to try and wrap myself up with a few more clothes before going to bed tonight in the hope of some longer spells of uninterrupted sleep.
19th Feb - it didn't work...it was still very cold. I was definitely kicking myself for not bringing my sleeping bag. Still, I was up at 5.30 intending to head back up the hill. I had seen the Antpitta, so I didnt need to hang around for that, so the plan was to head to the chusqea, where I had spent yesterday afternoon, in the hope of some of the other reserve specialities, and then probably up to the paramo again. Having climbed up the hill twice yesterday, it was very hard going today, so I took it fairly slowly. First bird of note seen was a very brief Mountain Cacique flying away across the river. The next was at the start of the track into the bamboo forest, when I heard a Fenwick's / Urrao Antpitta calling from right beside the path. I gave it a quick whistle, and within seconds I was seeing a proper "wild" one. Nice. Further on in the forest, I was pleased to find one of my main remaining target species, when I came across a White-browed Spinetail in a clump of bamboo by the side of the track. I had expected this to be a bit more in evidence, but this was the only one I saw, and I didnt hear any at all. A pair of Ash-coloured Tapaculos provided my only other tick along this stretch, and they showed very well.
I headed the rest of the way up to the paramo as there were still a few things I wanted to see up there, the main one being Barred Parakeet. Sadly the weather wasnt playing ball up there, and despite hearing the odd few flying over, I wasn't able to see them through the cloud. I was consoled somewhat by a nice Crowned Chat-Tyrant on the way back down though, amongst some chopped down trees between the two hummingbird feeding spots.
Down at the bottom of the steps and below the "vivero", I was wandering along when I heard something alarm calling on the other side of a little valley. I scanned with the bins, only seeing a Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant initially, which wasn't making the noise, but another scan saw me looking into the face of something I had never dreamed of seeing....an Ocelot. I was totally gobsmacked to see this beautiful animal just sitting there in the sun looking across at me, cool as a cucumber. I scrambled to get my camera out of my rucksack without scaring it off, but just as I turned it on, the cat got up and started walking off. I managed to record a short video clip of it as it disappeared into the bushes, which I will put onto U-Tube when I get time. I had seen some camera trap photos of this when I was browsing some shots from Pauxi Pauxi and remember thinking how great (and highly improbable) it would be to see one. The warden, when I asked him later, had seen one only twice before here, so I considered myself extremely lucky.
I spent the rest of the afternoon in the bamboo forest, seeing a few nice little flocks, plus Ocellated Tapaculo again, this time feeding by the side of the path. Also of note was a flock of Rusty-faced Parrots. Soon though the mist came in and bird activity reduced once more.
Back at the reserve at dusk, I was fed up enough of being dirty to brave the shower, and was glad I did. I had seen Luis getting up at 5.30 in the morning and heading straight in there, so I couldnt wimp out and go for three nights without one. It wasn't that bad actually.
Next morning (and still not having had a decent night's sleep) was my final morning at the reserve. There was one final bird I wanted to see before I started making my way back down to the road, and that was Spillman's Tapaculo. Luis and Matt both said the area around the Antpitta feeder was a good spot, so I spent the morning there. I saw one, not very well, but decided to tick it PBV.
I had to be down at the road at 10am, so Luis' wife and I set off on the horses around 8.30am. I was a bit happier on the horse this time, and it seemed to sense who was boss (Luis' wife). Still she gave me a branch to threaten it with, but after using it a couple of times and getting it to trot, I decided that it was far less painful when it was walking, so that was the drill for the rest of the way, though near the end we had a little bit of a gallop (a "tick" for me), and that was actually more comfortable than trotting.
Down at the road, the jeep driver which Pro-aves had arranged for me was already waiting for me, so I said goodbye to Luis' wife, and headed off for the next, and final, stage of the trip, Las Tangaras.
Colibri del Sol was a wonderful spot with some spectacular birds, most of which were easy to see. The accomodation was fine (if cold at night), the food good, the warden and his wife were very helpful and friendly, and overall I was quite happy with my stay here. The main things that would have made it a bit more enjoyable (apart from Chestnut-naped Antpitta and Barred Parakeet) were a sleeping bag, and also some wellies as my boots were swamped on the second day and there was no chance of getting them dry. As far as the house goes, I heard that there may be some improvements being made soon. A nice log fire would be my suggestion! But a great place nevertheless.