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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

DIY Image Stabilisation (IS) for binoculars (1 Viewer)

It also depends on what frequency your eyes can compensate for. There is a residual wander with my IS binoculars that doesn’t stop me seeing fine detail, they damp out the higher frequency jitter that blurs the fine detail. Be interested in the best parameters for different power and weight of binoculars. When I want stable views on my 10c I just pop them on a monopod with ballhead… but that ain’t light itself and takes up a fair amount of space…..

Peter

Hi Peter, when you say best parameters are you referring to the stick stabiliser? If so this is my experience:

1. Set weight budget at about 30% of bino weight.
2. Choose stiffest lightest stick that you can firmly affix to bino.
3. Use as long a stick as you are willing to put up with.
4. The unused weight budget can be attached to the tip.
 
Probably one of the simplest ideas. Pulled this off internet. Weights out behind your shoulders offset bino weight. Just would have to slide the crossbar closer to your face and elevate.. I'd just put an Edelkrone Flex Tilt Head on the crossbar to get your height and tilt adjustable to the users eye level. See tilt head photo next post.
Screenshot_20220903-073832_Google.jpg
 
As long as one has fun in the process!

If you find a pair of bino that could work with my stabiliser, I will mail it to you for free to play with. You can use it for plumbing solder afterwards lol!
Kimmik,

I have looked around for threaded carbon fiber rods or tubes with screw attachments, but no luck on the dimensions.

If Trinovid doesn't take you up on the offer of your stabilizer, I would certainly enjoy experimenting with it. (I use the same model of bins you have it mounted on.)
 
Kimmik,

I have looked around for threaded carbon fiber rods or tubes with screw attachments, but no luck on the dimensions.

If Trinovid doesn't take you up on the offer of your stabilizer, I would certainly enjoy experimenting with it. (I use the same model of bins you have it mounted on.)
Hello! Very happy to have your interest, PM me the address you wish for me to send to. I am located in London in case you were wondering.
 
For anyone following the build, I'd like to make a correction:

1/4" thread is the standard bino/camera mount, including my Nikon.

I started with M6 because that was available nearby (metric system in UK!) but it is not strictly the right thread, and risks damaging the bino mounting point.

I have some 1/4" threaded rods in the post for further prototypes!
 
Hello! Very happy to have your interest, PM me the address you wish for me to send to. I am located in London in case you were wondering.
Kimmik,

Oh, then shipping would make it unworkable. But thank you for the offer, and I hope someone on your side of the pond can use it.

(BTW, you have a USA flag on your postings, which made me think you were closer.)
 
Kimmik,

Oh, then shipping would make it unworkable. But thank you for the offer, and I hope someone on your side of the pond can use it.

(BTW, you have a USA flag on your postings, which made me think you were closer.)

After I refine the design a bit more, will PM you - shipping is on me, a small parcel is less than $10 :).
 
£9.00 for a M6 threaded Rod, £1.50 of Soldering and 50p Wingnut.
What else do you get for the other £39.00 ?
And they say there are no bad deals on eBay:sneaky:
 
£9.00 for a M6 threaded Rod, £1.50 of Soldering and 50p Wingnut.
What else do you get for the other £39.00 ?
And they say there are no bad deals on eBay:sneaky:

Lol. I’m not here to make money if thats what you’re thinking.

All my instructions are in detail for free for you to build your own.

Or you could offer £0.01 on ebay and get free shipping to boot.
 
I’ve taken your suggestion and dropped asking price to £11 or best offer.

Also upgraded thread to 1/4”.
 
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