We dined on a new variant of chicken curry and rice before sorting out our gear for a night walk in the rainforest. Oh yes. New site, new game: we had to take a small man-powered ferry across the river for a venture into proper jungle. On foot. At night. We were issued leech socks and advice to spray a ring of heavily DEET-laden insect repellent round them to keep leeches at bay. Thanks to the leech socks – long stemmed foot shapes of ripstock nylon with laces at the top, intended to be tied firmly above the bulge of calf muscles and indeed so worn by all members of the party except me – being non-stretch, they wouldn’t go over my Conan-like calves: so instead of looking an elegant expedition-ready male model I set out with a crumpled mess of nylon not far above my ankles. They were very heavily soaked in DEET though!
The ferry was a pair of small plastic canoes bolted in catamaran fashion to an aluminium deck with handrails. The ferryman sat in the stern of one of the canoes with a paddle and propelled us across the fairly substantial river. Bats skimmed the surface just like Daubenton’s back home: Dulan said these would be
Brown Bats (Myotis hasseltii) whose habits are just as described. Not knowing whether Muggers lurked in the river I leapt promptly up the steps away from it before pausing to look around. Above us the concrete track led steeply up the hillside towards the lights of a village: back across the river were the welcome lights of home. Dulan led us off up the hill and the climate began to bite.
It was so humid there was a hint of mist: just about enough to be a promise of it rather than the thing itself. The temperature seemed to have barely dropped from daytime. Within a few yards we were sweating and before the path levelled just a little, I at least was wringing wet right through. Even my t-shirt was so wet that it could not absorb more: wiping my forehead with my hand (mainly to prevent insect repellent slipping down into my eyes) I then couldn’t wipe it dry again on that or any other part of my clothing.
We spent the next several hours searching the jungle for owls, night mammal targets and herps. We couldn’t get any wetter and most of the time we were at least on tracks rather than in virgin forest – though once in a while we had to move off the path to see something located by light or thermal imager. Now and again Dulan would ask us to turn our lights off and wait in darkness for sound or sign of something. When the lights were on we could see, every time we stopped, dozens of leeches looping their way across the forest floor towards us from all directions. Not being able to even see them created near frenzy when the lights came back on, with queries of “anything on me where I can’t see?” and suchlike. Once I caught the tip of my foot on a low branch we were stepping over and crashed to the ground, twisting as usual to keep my optics safe. I’d no means of knowing what I was falling onto and I’ve never come back up so quickly from a fall, then dusting my hands together to knock off any undesirable wildlife and swishing torch around to check for larger game like snakes before a quick leech check from earth-blackened knees downwards….
With my interest in military history and the Chindit field commander John Masters as one of my personal heroes I was fascinated to experience even in a mild way this Asian rainforest. How in hell’s name could Chindits move in total darkness: not on trails, having to cut their way through thick jungle, no torches, no thermal imagers to see what’s out there, just total darkness and a column of men to bang into, branches to fall over, snakes, scorpions, spiders (we found some real corkers including a huge hairy bird-eating spider sp with a leg spread of over ten inches) elephants and so on – plus of course somewhere the Japanese looking for them…. The thing is quite impossible. My admiration for those soldiers rose several new notches with new understanding, there’s all the difference in the world between reading about it and trying it.
Anyway, we did also actually see some really great wildlife, and if I couldn’t understand how Chindits could move and fight in the jungle I had no idea whatsoever how Dulan kept track of where he was and memorised routes to and positions of particular trees so he could tell us to stop and confidently say this was a spot for flying squirrel, palm civet, whatever…. But so he did, and we had a
Travancore Flying Squirrel (the smaller of the two species in Sri Lanka) sitting up high in the canopy peering down at us from its transverse perch on a branch.
Herp of the night was a
Sri Lanka Wolf Snake which was however one of those irritating individuals that won’t give you a good look at its head. The amount of variation among the frogs and toads, and for that matter lizards, was amazing. Neither have previously been my thing but we saw so many different species that I found them very interesting. Lizards that gave themselves up during the walk were the familiar Green Forest Lizard plus a couple of ticks:
Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard and
Whistling Lizard.
As for amphibians, they were everywhere: roosting on leaves, on tree branches, on rocks, in pools and streams, making their way across damp ground. A few names from this walk:
Asian Common Toad, Hollow-snouted Shrub Frog, Gunther’s Golden-backed Tree Frog, Kelaart’s Dwarf Toad, Kotagama’s Dwarf Toad, Sri Lanka Wood Frog. Some of them looked ordinary, but some were very colourful and almost elegant. Former princes?
Late in the walk Dulan proposed a side route up to another of his favourite spots. I don’t think we scored there but we did find a roosting
Spot-winged Thrush on a branch that was a tick and an interesting photo subject in the deep forest night. On the homeward leg we had an Asian Palm Civet in a palm tree by the village. We heard but didn’t see Serendib Scops Owl, discovered some years previously by Dulan’s colleague Deepal. No ticks on call I’m afraid.
Back at the river we were surprised to find that the level had fallen quite a lot. It appears the level is subject to the demands of a hydro-electricity project upstream that stores water when “nobody needs it” – overnight – and releases it for power at peak times during the day. As a result the river was now so shallow we had to be ferried over in two batches. Steve and Big John went first and I took the chance to photograph the ferry in action at night while Roy and I waited our turn.
Back in the room Roy and I stripped off and checked each other for leeches. I’d got away with it but Roy had been had and the offending beast was curled up (not attached) in his navel. It came to a sticky end shortly after discovery. I’d seen earlier that Steve had also suffered and had a huge bloody patch on the back of his shirt, between the shoulderblades.
Hollow-snouted Shrub Frog
Bird-eating Spider sp
Whistling Lizard
Gunther's Golden-backed Tree Frog
Sri Lanka Flying Squirrel (The smaller of the two flying squirrels. Photo taken vertically upwards.)
Kotagama's Dwarf Toad