PNG in the first half of July 2023 (1 Viewer)

[Jose Ramon]

Hi all,

we area planning a tour to PNG in the first half of July 2023.

The "core" of the tour will be a few days at Kumul Lodge in Mount Hagen (maybe one night in Rondon Ridge Lodge) and a few more days near Port Moresby (Pacific Adventist University, Varirata National Park,...).

Our main goal will be to try to see all the endemic families of PNG but of course as many birds as possible at the same time.

Of course, anybody is free to arrive in advance or depart later and visit other areas or stay longer in the ones that we will visit.

Probably, two of us will fly through Singapore and we will stop there for a few days in order to visit Southern Malaysia and try to look for the Rail Babbler and many other birds in Taman Negara N.P.

Dates to be determined depending on the flights but inside the first half of July 2023.

If you are interested, please send me a DM as soon as possible.

Regards,

 

[halftwo]

Rough idea of cost, please, Jose?

 

[Jose Ramon]

Rough idea of cost, please, Jose?

Expensive.

If we decide to go with Sicklebill Safaries:

New Guinea Endemic Families - Sicklebill Safaris

The New Guinea Endemic Families tour is designed to target at least one member of all 7 endemic bird families of New Guinea. These include Crested

birder.travel

AUD$4,595.00 = 2.800 EUR (international flight not included to Port Moresby)

Sicklebill Safaris include the services of a tour leader and two nights in the very expensive Rondon Ridge Lodge.

The area of Port Moresby (Pacific Adventist University, Varirata National Park,...) is not included and should be an extra.

Other option could be to reduce the price reducing the services of trying to organize it by ourselves.

 

[Jon.Bryant]

I wouldn’t recommend a DIY job in PNG, just to save cost.

I am no expert, but did visit the country with Rockjumper in 2019. When we were out and about we were always accompanied by local protection (a big guy with a machete). On one occasion we were approach by three guys, who were annoyed because ‘we were standing on their bridge’ - actually we were stood on a public road. Two of the men were carrying machetes and the other an axe, so the situation was.a little tense.

Even when we tried to do some pre tour birding around our hotel in Port Moresby, the hotel security staff insisted on accompanying us on a walk round the block.

One person on the tour said their friends had tried to do Varirata on their own, but bottled it as they felt intimidated by a group that followed then there.

When we were there, local elections were taking place in one area, and when we flew out the crowds were throwing rocks at the airport building.

I understand that one of the highland resorts still remains closed after violent unrest in 2018/19,

It is a probably the hairiest place I have visited, but very exciting and the birdwatching is amazing.

Despite the scary stories the people we did meet properly were great and very friendly.

 

[Jon.Bryant]

Actually we didn’t have protection at Kumil Lodge and Rondon Ridge, but Rondon Ridge is a posh resort and Kumul Lodge an Eco Lodge, so these are not really public spaces.

 

[jurek]

I concur - PNG is a very dangerous place and basically, local guide is needed to make sure you can bird anywhere. The local custom is that any piece of land is owned by a person or a tribe who does not want trespassers. My understanding is that Papuan Adventist University grounds are the exception.

Many years ago I wanted to do PNG independently, and I am happy that I did an organized trip, for I probably avoided a major trouble. A birder from Australia summed it nicely: if New Guinea was a normal country, it would be overfilled with tourists from Australia, Asia and everywhere else.

I recommend: get one of known companies running trips to the country.

 

[Jose Ramon]

I concur - PNG is a very dangerous place and basically, local guide is needed to make sure you can bird anywhere. The local custom is that any piece of land is owned by a person or a tribe who does not want trespassers. My understanding is that Papuan Adventist University grounds are the exception.

Many years ago I wanted to do PNG independently, and I am happy that I did an organized trip, for I probably avoided a major trouble. A birder from Australia summed it nicely: if New Guinea was a normal country, it would be overfilled with tourists from Australia, Asia and everywhere else.

I recommend: get one of known companies running trips to the country.

I was not talking about going alone. I am aware about the security situation in PNG.

I was talking about getting a guide in Port Moresby (I have their emails) to visit Varirata and P.A.U. plus a few more days in Kumul Lodge with their guides.

I was not talking about moving around PNG alone, I know that the security situation is bad and it is not safe to do so.

All the time we will be with local guides that will provide us security.

Regarding taking the tour with a company, I wonder if it is really necessary to have a "tour leader".

I usually organize the tours by myself contacting local guides in internet. I had just once a "tour leader" and all his job was to give us the key of the room as the guiding was performed by local guides that were the experts on the fields. And I never had any problem with local guides. Of course I check before the reputation of the guide in internet, looking for info about him in trip reports.

Taking a "tour leader" will increase the price as we should pay him all the cost of his tour plus his salary.

In addition, I wonder if it is necessary to stay in Rondon Ridge Logde. It is very expensive (around US$500 per person per night in a double room all included). Room, all meals and two guided itineraries per day in their private forest plus free access to their private forest on your own.

So, it means that those 2 nights cost US$1000, on third of the cost of a tour with a company.

The reason could be to have a backup for one or two endemic families that could be fail in Kumul Lodge.

But, some people that have taken the tour told me that they saw all the endemic families of PNG in Kumul Lodge and their day trips in the surroundings of the lodge and there was not a need to stay in Rondon Ridge Lodge.

 

[Jon.Bryant]

It is an interesting point regarding the tour leader. Rockjumper actually run the trip to PNG with two two leaders, plus local guides! I understand that this is to allow for the unexpected. We actually had a elderly person on the trip who fell badly in the woods at Rondon Ridge and hurt his back - the path is quite steep in places and slippery. One tour leader then dealt with him (as he decided to cut his trip short), while the other tour leader looked after us.

Another story at Rondon Ridge, is that it is actually quite hard to see Black Sicklebill (well at least when we were there in 2019). We needed to get to the hill submit by dawn when the bird displayed. The bird didn't display in view, but after display world perch up briefly, before disappearing into the woods for the rest of the day. Anyway this meant climbing the slippery, steep path in the dark. Only a few guests were up for this adventure, so again having two leaders allowed the group to split and focus on what they wanted to see. We also split when some of us of wanted to go for second views of Blue Bird-of-Paradise etc.

The local guide provided by Rondon Ridge, was very nice and had a great knowledge of the some of the birds (including the Black Sicklebill), but I think his English was a bit limited.

At Kumul Lodge we didn't have a local guide - I am not sure if the lodge provides guides? To be honest, after getting our bearings Rockjumper gave us some time to explore the area each day by ourselves. This worked out well, as all of us managed to catch up with Lesser Melanpitta by walking the woods around the lodge quietly - I think in a group it would be harder to see this bird.

At Varirata, I think the local guide was more or a fixer than a bird guide and we also had a local guy as protection - I am not sure what the local guide's bird knowledge was like - I got the feeling he was more about arranging transport etc. I can't remember whether we had a local guide to the university - probably just the two tour guides and a local driver.

The best local bird guides were the guys on the Fly River - but this is along way off your itinerary. Rockjumper used Samuel Kepuknai of Kiunga Nature Tours (I think I have got the right person - if so, he is the guy who calmed down the three angry locals I mentioned previously). Samuel has worked with the locals to train people to be specialists in a couple of species - one guy is an expert on Paradise Kingfishers, another on Flame Bowerbird, another on Owlet-Nightjars etc. These guys walk around barefoot, disperse into the woods, but somehow manage to silently communicate when one of them finds something. None of them used, or seemed to own binoculars, but all had the sharpest eyes I have ever known. Most of the time we must have been birding with 2 tour guides and 5 local guides, who wonder off into the woods to find us stuff!

Rondon Ridge has different species to Kumul Lodge, although I am not so sure about different families. For instance Yellow-browed Meledectes at Rondon and Belford's at Kumul, Princes Stephanie's Astrapia at Rondon and Ribbon-tailed at Kumul. Kumul Lodge is a lot higher at circa 2800m (and quite cold when we were there) whereas Rondon Ridge is only at circa 2100m, which probably explains the difference in species. If I was going again, I would advise on trying to fit in both lodges (despite the cost of Rondon Ridge - the accommodation is very nice though). If I do go again it will be the Fly River, but I will first need to overcome my fear of leaches (especially in the pitch black) - this cost me Starry and Wallace's Owlet-Nightjar last time!

 

[jurek]

I think there was a similar discussion last year or so. Endemic families is a fuzzy concept because families are not unequivocally agreed and keep changing all the time. In PNG, Wattled Ploughbill is a mobile low density bird with no certain stakeouts and purely hit-or-miss. Greater Me(ga)lampitta is a good candidate for a separate family, and it is a very restricted bird not currently on your itinerary.

Jon brings a good point - in New Guinea, most people want male Birds of Paradise, and these are only one family

 

[Jon.Bryant]

Thinking about it, I only saw Ploughbill at Rondon Ridge (although it wasn't easy). Someone in our group did see it at Kumul, but I think it is easier at the first lodge.

 

[Jon.Bryant]

Greater Me(ga)lampitta is a good candidate for a separate family, and it is a very restricted bird not currently on your itinerary.

We tried a site for this, but it was like looking for a needle in a haystack. Is there a site where this bird can be reliably seen?

 

[Jose Ramon]

We tried a site for this, but it was like looking for a needle in a haystack. Is there a site where this bird can be reliably seen?

One question (I believe the answer is NO)

Some people suggested me visiting Western Papua (Indonesian part) but as far as I know it is harder, if possible, to get all the endemic families of Papua there.

If it is possible, I believe that it should be somewhere in the highlands as Mount Hagen and I believe that the higlands of Western Papua were close for tourism due tribal confrontations.

Do you have info about it?

 

[Arbu]

Hi Jose

I haven't heard that the highlands in West Papua are closed, but equally the security situation is not very good. They still haven't released that New Zealand pilot. Safety and security - Indonesia travel advice

 

[Jon.Bryant]

Do you have info about it?

Do you mean Mount Hagen or the Melampitta? The place we tried for Greater Melampitta was Dablin Creek Road EBird Link for Dablin Creek Road. Doesn't look like anyone has reported one there since 2019, but it is still part of the Rockjumper tour and there are records of other birds from there for last season.

Let's hope it doesn't become a separate family, as then you will have to expand your tour quite a bit to bag all the endemic families.

I remember reading that West Papua can be challenging birding. Actually Papua New Guinea is not easy - someone suggested that a lot of the birds are quite shy because of historic hunting, but I could just be that you are often searching dense forest, where birds can be hard to find in any case.

I recall reading that in Western Papua there are some nice stake-outs for displaying Parotias and I understand Black Sicklebill is easier than in PNG - or course you also have Wilson's Bird-of-Paradise on offshore islands.

 

[Jose Ramon]

Do you mean Mount Hagen or the Melampitta? The place we tried for Greater Melampitta was Dablin Creek Road EBird Link for Dablin Creek Road. Doesn't look like anyone has reported one there since 2019, but it is still part of the Rockjumper tour and there are records of other birds from there for last season.

Let's hope it doesn't become a separate family, as then you will have to expand your tour quite a bit to bag all the endemic families.

I remember reading that West Papua can be challenging birding. Actually Papua New Guinea is not easy - someone suggested that a lot of the birds are quite shy because of historic hunting, but I could just be that you are often searching dense forest, where birds can be hard to find in any case.

I recall reading that in Western Papua there are some nice stake-outs for displaying Parotias and I understand Black Sicklebill is easier than in PNG - or course you also have Wilson's Bird-of-Paradise on offshore islands.

My question was if it was possible to watch all the (current) endemic families of New Guinea in the Western side (Indonesia).

I believe that the answer is no. At least I never heard about a tour for it.

Maybe they are more difficult to find, maybe the security in the Indonesian highlands is not good or even worse that in PNG.

I believe that if the tours that search for the families go to PNG is because it should be easier (or at least less difficult) to get them there.

I heard about tours to the Western side but to the lowlands that should be a safer area.

But the (current) endemic families habitat is the highlands in PNG so I presume that the right place to look for them in the Western side should also be the highlands.

 

[jurek]

I visited West Papua independently in 2017, and it was much cheaper and easier that the organized tour to PNG. Mostly because you are not confined to expensive lodges. Birds are much less shy and people more open towards Europeans. We saw displaying Black Sicklebill, Western Parotia and Wilson's BOP among others. There is a number of reports on Cloudbirders. I am afraid you must check your families yourself.

 

[Jon.Bryant]

As you say, if all you want is a bird from each endemic family, then Kumul Lodge and nearby must be the place to go.

When we were there in 2019, the group got all 7 families listed in your tour at Kumul or nearby.

1. Paramythiidae - Crested Berrypecker at Kumul Lodge and Tit Berrypecker at Murmura Pass (which is not too far away)
2. Ifritidae - Blue-capped Ifrit at Kumul Lodge and Murmura Pass - pretty poor views at Rondon Ridge
3. Rhagologidae - Mottled Berryhunter at Murmura Pass (others saw one at Rondon Ridge)
4. Eulacestomatidae - Wattled Ploughbill I only saw this at Rondon Ridge, but others on the trip saw it at Kumul Lodge
5. Melampittidae - Lesser Melampitta at Kumul Lodge only.
6. Cnemophilidae - Loria's Satinbird at Murmura Pass and Crested Satinbird at Kumul Lodge
7. Melanocharitidae - Fan-tailed Berrypecker pretty easy at both Kumul Lodge and Rondon Ridge - also seen at Murmura Pass. We saw seven birds in this family, but I think most other species are more lowland species.

I can't help but think it is a long way to go and not even target Bird's-of-Paradise - alas the family is not endemic as a few species in the family live in northern Australia.

 

[Mysticete]

As you say, if all you want is a bird from each endemic family, then Kumul Lodge and nearby must be the place to go.

When we were there in 2019, the group got all 7 families listed in your tour at Kumul or nearby.

I can't help but think it is a long way to go and not even target Bird's-of-Paradise - alas the family is not endemic as a few species in the family live in northern Australia.

Presumably given the diversity there you would naturally probably pick up some of the local Birds-of-Paradise while looking for the other things.

 

[Arbu]

Here's a thought. Walking the Kokoda Trail is not desperately expensive https://worldexpeditions.com/Papua-New-Guinea/Trekking-Walking/Kokoda-Northern-Beaches-Trek. And it's through forest, so there must be lots of good birds. But the UK Foreign Office says:

"There have been serious attacks and robberies along the Kokoda Track. Although community leaders have assured tourists of their safety and well-being while walking the Kokoda Track, you should take care. If you intend to walk a trail or track, including the Kokoda Track, avoid walking independently and travel with guides from reputable travel companies. You can get details from the Papua New Guinea Tourism Authority or the Kokoda Track Authority." Safety and security - Papua New Guinea travel advice

So if you go on a regular trip, you will probably be required to stay close to the rest of the group for safety, and get very frustrated if trying to watch birds.

But would it be possible to approach one of the companies that organises these hikes, and tell them you want a birder's special tour, on the basis that you will go out birding every morning as a group before breakfast, and then make lots of stops on the way when you see things? If all clients on the trip are birders, it should work, surely. The altitude on the trail ranges from 300 - 2500m by the way.

 

[Jon Gallagher]

I would second Jurek's observations. I'm in West Papua right now, finishing off a se;f-organized trip. I feel totally safe here, like anywhere else in Indoensia. I would not say that about PNG. There I was escorted by armed police! Definitely a better place to be.