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Shutter speed (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter helenol
- Start date
It's a little difficult to say, because I can't tell if the bird is at the top of its hop or going up or down from the highest point.
If the bird was at its peak position, then you could probably have gotten by with 1/250th of a second if you had panned with the bird's motion and not worried about keeping the background sharp instead. If at any other position in the hop-cycle, then 1/1000 to 1/2000 would have helped.
When trying to do stop-motion photography in less than idea lighting situations, don't be afraid to crank up that ISO to a tolerable level for your camera so you can use faster shutter speeds. Then use a noise-reduction tool later to remove the extra noise that higher ISO's impart. It's always a trade-off, but at least you would have been able to easily stop that motion blur. Also, you used a lens aperture of f/4.0, won't your lens open wider than that? It could have given you 1 or 2 shutter speeds higher at that same low-noise ISO.
If the bird was at its peak position, then you could probably have gotten by with 1/250th of a second if you had panned with the bird's motion and not worried about keeping the background sharp instead. If at any other position in the hop-cycle, then 1/1000 to 1/2000 would have helped.
When trying to do stop-motion photography in less than idea lighting situations, don't be afraid to crank up that ISO to a tolerable level for your camera so you can use faster shutter speeds. Then use a noise-reduction tool later to remove the extra noise that higher ISO's impart. It's always a trade-off, but at least you would have been able to easily stop that motion blur. Also, you used a lens aperture of f/4.0, won't your lens open wider than that? It could have given you 1 or 2 shutter speeds higher at that same low-noise ISO.
madmike
Well-known member
Exposure problems
Hi Helen,
One of the main problems is that when you take a photo such as this one, being so close, the magnification is obviously great. Thus in order to avoid ANY signs of movement you will need a higher shutter speed than if you were say shooting a moving car. If you see what I mean!
In anyhting less than bright sunshine a fast shutter speed is generally difficult.
One way is to use flash, but this of course is not an easy option and you need a good flash gun such as a Metz or similar. Some of these will work up to 50 ft or so and will freeze most movement. I don't know if you can use a good flash on you camera though!
One good thing about MY Robins is that they know how to pose!!
Cheers,
Mike
Hi Helen,
One of the main problems is that when you take a photo such as this one, being so close, the magnification is obviously great. Thus in order to avoid ANY signs of movement you will need a higher shutter speed than if you were say shooting a moving car. If you see what I mean!
In anyhting less than bright sunshine a fast shutter speed is generally difficult.
One way is to use flash, but this of course is not an easy option and you need a good flash gun such as a Metz or similar. Some of these will work up to 50 ft or so and will freeze most movement. I don't know if you can use a good flash on you camera though!
One good thing about MY Robins is that they know how to pose!!
Cheers,
Mike
rezMole
Well-known member
stevo said:
This is about right for normal shots of relatively still images (portraits, landscapes etc.), but to freeze action, the faster the better. I would always try to use 1/000th at 500mm, and then that probably wouldn't be enough! For a shot like that, i'd have gone to 1/2000th and upped the ISO to 200. Any little bit of noise is easily removed.
